brwilson

The total cost for the rebuild including LN Nickies, ARP bolts, new oil pumps, bearing cage and various other stuff (upgraded baffle, new oil filler neck, new battery cable, etc.) is just over $18,500, regardless of the bore I choose. It is basically about $8500 in labor and $10,000 in parts, so even if I did it myself, and spent the next 6 months purchasing and fabricating tools and taking up my limited garage and driveway, it would probably still cost $13K. This is my guess.

MadIrish

What parts do you feel you need to fabricate? The cam timing, wrist pin insertion tool, and engine stand yoke can all be purchased. This is the bulk of the special tools required.

brwilson

I haven't researched it too much, but I do know about the cam timing, wrist-pin and I think there are some special chain tensioner tools. I would need to buy an engine stand and a couple of jacks--one high enough lift the car and drop the engine. Also IMS and RMS tools.


I can certainly take things apart and put things back together, but I am a little wary of the tolerances in fitting things like the rings, aligning the case and the carrier cage, etc. I am also worried that if I rebuild it myself, rather than a reputable builder, I won't be able to sell the car, regardless of the care I took. It's still a Porsche, and branding is important.

Montychristo128

Here is a link to what a 3.4->3.8 LN looks like post processing. Sorry I'm unable to post images directly for some reason:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/fszKxtvRwL0jR3G03

I'll let you know how it turns out. 3.4>3.6 as Ahsai points out is almost a no brainer as pricing is very similar with LN, it was not much more to go to 3.8 in my case.

I ended up needing rods as someone number stamped my end caps so needed replacement anyhow and by the time you mess about buying std rods, new bearings and ARP bolts etc difference was minimal. LN did a deal on forged rods too (I found them cheaper somewhere else and LN got pretty close). Its not a cheap process, but anyone in the P car community actually values this v's cast sleeves.

I feel your pain, hoping its all worthwhile.

tomcat

Maybe this has been proven insignificant, but increasing the bore will change your compression ratio. As I stated, maybe this does not make a difference, but numbers used for the combustion chamber and piston crown volume in the rebuild threads did not match what I measured. And using what I measured, calculating the CR with larger bores changes the value from the factory spec a lot.

Ahsai

No it won't if you use the LN nickies + pistons package. They've done all the calculation and custom made the pistons for you to maintain the same or similar CR.

Flat6 Innovations

You can do it once using proven components, or you can do it twice if you like cutting corners.

Our phone lines are clogged these days with people who have made poor decisions, used sub- standard processes,and now are facing a problem they can't solve.

Yesterday, Jud was out sick, so I actually had to waste time in the office. The phone rings and I answer it "hello, I bought an M96 engine from one of your competitors with iron cylinders, and I need help"

My reply was "sorry, there's no help for you".

I didn't answer the phone the rest of the day. Just let it ring. I have zero patience for those calls.

OP: Choose wisely, you'll get exactly what you pay for.

Singo

Hi loudt2

Put the 'Big Pack' from Do88 into my Turbo and can say it is first class. Makes an awesome difference with torque and hp.

Also put in Fabspeed headers, GMG turbo back exhaust, BMC air filter, pinned with Sharkwerks coolant elbows, plus whilst the engine was out, replaced the waterpump, plugs and serpentine belt.

Very happy with the resulting performance!

Clutch was fairly new on mine when I got it, otherwise I would have put in a lightened mass flywheel and better clutch.

Happy building

neilll

Displacement options? I didn’t rebuild but replaced with 3.2 and all seems well! Haha. It’s not for everyone but it’s a heckuva lot cheaper than $18,500. I still do want something more powerful in the future but I’m not in a hurry.

turkis_tii

OP: Overall, I’d ask what you want to do with car, street only, some track, lots of track?
FWIW after previous comments (LS?), at 106K miles I replaced as many problems I could for a street/some track (no slicks!) car:
- LNE 3.8 cases (yes, took a long time but nothing else compares) and pistons, +$500 or so.
- ARP everywhere, esp. on rods
- stock rods, wished I’d gone with Carillo
- pinned IRS gear to IMS
- new chains, upgraded paddles, retained solenoids
- FS6 “Solution” IMS bearing (original showed no wear!)
- new low temp thermostat, oil pump, water pump, etc.
- newish clutch retained
- heads machined by Hoffman with new seals (important!), etc. but not flowed
Lots of other stuff I can’t remember. Cost was right around $20K from local Indy with 25+ years building racing engines.

Mpfaff

Thread started 4 years ago......

Singo

Getting some good conversation going 😊

SealG996

As more 996s age, rebuild now that more is known, is indeed a relevant topic. While I find my 3.4 adequate it seems silly not to increase displacement at rebuild. While the thread is four years old significant change has occured. The ideal displacement recipe in full detail, might be different now. Supply chain issues have impacted on M96 engines, at least in Australia. The role of supports after investing in displacement such as UAOS, and sump solutions/dry sump solutions, could be clearer. Headwork could be better defined. Also the role of tuning these older ecus. Or is it time to be like the JDM world for standalone management that can be spliced in with factory looms to develop.