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Personally, I wouldn't obsess over the oil level. Unlike an engine that relies on oil level to keep the pump pickup submerged, the transmission just churns the stuff around. Close to full is fine IMO.
I suspect others here will strongly disagree but think about it.
I agree !! But for information purposes, the correct fill level is 2.7, that brings you to 10mm below the fill plug level, fashion an "L" shaped wire (read coathanger) to measure this distance. Obviously many people fill to the fill plug, and there seems to be no adverse effects in doing this overfill. I have to idea why the spec is 10mm below the fill plug.
As for 2nd gear grinding it can occure for two reasons, one being the syncro not letting the slide engage the dog teeth on the loose 2nd gear, or the slide engaged, but then pops out slightly causing the grind.Sometimes it is hard to tell which is happening.
2nd gear gets the most abuse, and the factory admittently got the positioning of the 2nd gear ideal position off by 0.015. The factory fix for pop -out is to adjust the shim stack to move the second gear 0.015 further forward allowing the slide to engage further.
The g-box detent allows further engagement of ALL the gears , but this isn't a problem.
The CMS (California Motorsports) has a modified shift arrester that does the same thing but only to 2nd, 4th, and 6th gear, and requires the rear case to be removed to install.
The loose 2nd gear "dog teeth" are "V" shaped to allow fast and easy engagement. every time a grind occures, the tip of the V is ground or rounded. If too much of the Dog teeth are ground off the slide will no longer stay engaged and/or be very difficult to engage.
If grinding has occured, you can be sure that "some" damage will be done to the "v" of the dog teeth. The extent of damage must be determined and the moderate rounding of the tip will result in less effective shift. If the grinding is stopped in time, the shift quality may still be acceptable for normal driving.
I had similar issue in my 2003 996 Turbo, it was grinding only on the downshift into second gear above 30 mph, other wise it shifted fine with no pop-outs. I had the oil changed with genuine porsche oil according to spec for $355, and it shifted perfectly.
I'm trying to sell the car and the grinding 3-2 downshift doesn't help.
I think I'm going to pull the transmission and replace the synchro as Porschetech3 suggested.
Before I buy parts - can I get someone knowledgable to tell me if the specific synchros involved in a 3-2 downshift are called the 2nd gear syncros or the 3rd gear synchros?
I think it is that middle stack:
Which of those do I need?
Are there other parts I'd be looking for in this synchro change?
I'm not looking to spend a ton of money, I just want to fix this one specific problem. Otherwise the car is terrific.
Part# 3-4-5 is the set that makes up the 3-piece syncro for 2nd gear (also used on 1st gear). Part #2 is 2nd gear, inspect closely the small teeth for damage to the leading edge "V", also the guide sleeve part #6 for damage to the leading edge "V"..Compare the "V" to that of other known good gears in the trans.
I changed my gear oil with some generic 75w90 synthetic I had at my shop after I installed a new trans mount. I noticed it would grind a lot more going from 1st to 2nd when cold. I ordered some from porsche just now, hopefully it helps.
I have the transmission apart, and the only damage appears to be a worn synchro. I have several threads opened recently about the project. I am in the reassembly stage, but distracted by other projects and my day job.
05-09-2018, 07:13 PM
