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Just thinking out loud but if a spring failed it would vibrate strangely. Maybe some impact shock from the deer? But I’m really just making a WAG.
Nice thought. The vibration was happening before I installed everything. I felt almost 100% sure it was the motor mounts causing it so I replaced those and other suspension components that were acting up. That darn deer took a ride through the old springs. Besides, the vibration is both while moving and sitting still regardless of clutch position. You can feel it at idle and it drastically increases with RPM's. I haven't taken it over 4k RPM's to see how it feels. I'm a bit nervous to do so.
Nice thought. The vibration was happening before I installed everything. I felt almost 100% sure it was the motor mounts causing it so I replaced those and other suspension components that were acting up. That darn deer took a ride through the old springs. Besides, the vibration is both while moving and sitting still regardless of clutch position. You can feel it at idle and it drastically increases with RPM's. I haven't taken it over 4k RPM's to see how it feels. I'm a bit nervous to do so.
I should had said if one of the springs or components in the dual mass flywheel failed it would vibrate.
You are the second vote for the flywheel.
You are thinking it wouldn't be worth installing the FF transmission mount just to see? I'm ok with a few small wasteful purchases to avoid going all in if I have too.
For those who think it's the flywheel what damages would that cause if I drove it more? Would a flywheel just fail over night or over a couple days time?
I am not a fan of throwing parts at problems, but I don’t see any harm in installing the function first piece. I suspect it will increase the vibration, since it makes the mount stiffer.
The dual mass flywheel has two big hunks of steel, one attached to the end of the crank, and another that contacts the clutch disk via friction (clamping the disk between the pressure plate and the flywheel). There is a dampener between them to absorb driveline shock. If the dampener goes, it could cause vibration in the driveline.
No way to know for sure without removing the transmission, taking off the pressure plate and the clutch disk, and doing the twist test from the shop manual.
Hmmmm, after reading through all the posts it seems like you're trying to diagnose the problem by committee without actually doing any work/getting your hands dirty - Not a good idea. It really doesn't matter what anyone here speculates on - go out and get under the car (make sure it's properly chocked and supported) and figure out what's going on...Obviously if it's nothing that you can see on the outside, it must be something on the inside - start with the simple stuff (what you can see) and go from there...
Hmmmm, after reading through all the posts it seems like you're trying to diagnose the problem by committee without actually doing any work/getting your hands dirty - Not a good idea. It really doesn't matter what anyone here speculates on - go out and get under the car (make sure it's properly chocked and supported) and figure out what's going on...Obviously if it's nothing that you can see on the outside, it must be something on the inside - start with the simple stuff (what you can see) and go from there...
No way. My hands are dirty alright. The community got me through this journey last week on another thread. (https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ncluded-3.html) You included and I appreciate that. First time I've ever touched anything suspension related.
My car is now back on jack stands with the front panel off. Going to remove the rear panel tonight and inspect everything I can see. If I see nothing and end up with the majority say it's the flywheel without needing any more information, that makes me a little more comfortable with the decision to spend 4-5k to fix it, and the while you are in there items.
I was really hoping that someone would be like mine did just that and I did this simple thing to fix it. I don't think I'm going to be that lucky though.
Awesome, looks like you are right in there and aren't afraid to get your hands dirty. I'd say that pulling the transmission and swapping out the clutch/flywheel assembly is 3x more work than the suspension (off the top of my head).
If you go the DIY route, you'll want a good tool set (lots of extensions to get at that top mounting bolt), make sure you have a M10 triple square, a torque wrench, buy or make an engine support bar, and grab a transmission jack (can be purchased inexpensively at Harbor Freight). The rest is just R&R. You may want to get your car higher off the ground too (so you can slide the transmission out easily). Sachs makes a clutch kit and Luk the flywheel - shop around and you can find better prices. Replace all the mounting bolts (flywheel to crank, pressure plate to flywheel) and consider whether you want to do any "while you're in there" items - IMS bearing, RMS, transmission input seal, clutch actuation arm, pivot etc. I didn't add it up, but I think I spent under $1200 in parts when I did a clutch recently, the flywheel being the most expensive part.
Verified that none of the exhaust got smashed into contact with something it's not supposed to be touching? Those muffler mounts are STOUT, but I've never smacked on mine with a deer. And a raccoon.
No way. My hands are dirty alright. The community got me through this journey last week on another thread. (https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ncluded-3.html) You included and I appreciate that. First time I've ever touched anything suspension related.
My car is now back on jack stands with the front panel off. Going to remove the rear panel tonight and inspect everything I can see. If I see nothing and end up with the majority say it's the flywheel without needing any more information, that makes me a little more comfortable with the decision to spend 4-5k to fix it, and the while you are in there items.
I was really hoping that someone would be like mine did just that and I did this simple thing to fix it. I don't think I'm going to be that lucky though.
Fair enough then! Unfortunately, that's what needs to be done. Once you've eliminated all the stuff on the outside, it's probably time to drop the engine/transmission and check out your clutch and flywheel - certainly not the end of the world, but better done sooner rather than later. The upside is that while it's not inexpensive, relative to some engine work it's not bad at all, and it's comparatively easyto do - Good luck
Verified that none of the exhaust got smashed into contact with something it's not supposed to be touching? Those muffler mounts are STOUT, but I've never smacked on mine with a deer. And a raccoon.
It's hard for me to inspect all of this from jack stands so I took it down and put the wheels back on. I'm taking it down the road tomorrow to my friends shop to use his lift at noon when they close. I'm starting to have a little more hope that it's exhaust related.
When inspecting things yesterday more I noticed that the exhaust sounds like it has a lot more bass to it than usual and I can feel the vibration in my wheels and tires. But maybe this was caused by the new motor mounts.
I raised the RPM's to around 5k and held it. Once the exhaust was in a higher pitch range the vibrating/pulsating turned into a tingly feeling. Gosh I hope I find something tomorrow!
Awesome, looks like you are right in there and aren't afraid to get your hands dirty. I'd say that pulling the transmission and swapping out the clutch/flywheel assembly is 3x more work than the suspension (off the top of my head).
If you go the DIY route, you'll want a good tool set (lots of extensions to get at that top mounting bolt), make sure you have a M10 triple square, a torque wrench, buy or make an engine support bar, and grab a transmission jack (can be purchased inexpensively at Harbor Freight). The rest is just R&R. You may want to get your car higher off the ground too (so you can slide the transmission out easily). Sachs makes a clutch kit and Luk the flywheel - shop around and you can find better prices. Replace all the mounting bolts (flywheel to crank, pressure plate to flywheel) and consider whether you want to do any "while you're in there" items - IMS bearing, RMS, transmission input seal, clutch actuation arm, pivot etc. I didn't add it up, but I think I spent under $1200 in parts when I did a clutch recently, the flywheel being the most expensive part.
Thanks for the info! Honestly though the thought of it being 3 times more work than the suspension is going to make me look over this thing with a fine tooth comb and then pay the shop to do it if I find nothing wrong.
Thanks for the info! Honestly though the thought of it being 3 times more work than the suspension is going to make me look over this thing with a fine tooth comb and then pay the shop to do it if I find nothing wrong.
3x more work? Eh, I don't know... I did my suspension (struts, springs, sways and drop links, and front wheel bearings) - it wasn't much less than dropping the engine/tranny. Granted I've got a C4 which is a little more involved due to the front axles. Dropping the engine/tranny is not difficult, but there are a whole bunch of ancillary things that need to be removed (under-body trays, axles, clutch slave cylinder line, transmission cables, suspension braces [cross brace and angle braces], rear sway bar, headers, mufflers/cats, rear bumper cover and other bumper parts, rear wheel liners [not totally necessary but it makes access and visuals much easier] all chassis to engine wiring connections, chassis to engine fuel line, coolant lines, power steering lines etc...- once again, not difficult but pretty involved - make sure you've got plenty of tape/labels and zip-lock bags/containers for nuts/bolts, connectors etc. The main thing I would recommend is that you get the car up much higher than it is in the photo. For me, the magic number was 25.5" and I was just able to roll the engine/tranny out from under the car. By doing my own work I saved about $5k - The way I like to look at it is that I payed myself $5k - perspective is everything!!!
Maybe not 3x, but just trying to convey that it is more complex.
I found swapping in coilovers (preassembled), swaybars and drop links very straightforward and fast work, using no special tools and having no contortionist moves. The transmission drop had a lot more to it, first removing a lot more bits before you get to the actual drop, getting to the slave cylinder, getting at those top mounting bolts, balancing the transmission on the jack, and aligning the input shaft upon reassembly. I also had to procure a specialized transmission jack and an engine support bar, so for me it seemed like a lot more work and a lot more time.
11-02-2017, 12:42 AM
Unfortunately, that's what needs to be done. Once you've eliminated all the stuff on the outside, it's probably time to drop the engine/transmission and check out your clutch and flywheel - certainly not the end of the world, but better done sooner rather than later. The upside is that while it's not inexpensive, relative to some engine work it's not bad at all, and it's comparatively easyto do - Good luck