Handbreak cable
10-17-2017, 02:34 PM
#1
Handbreak cable
After an exhausting three-day war between me and my old rusty handbreak cable I had removed 23 mm of the pipe at the wheel hub end. Will it work with a new cable? (Or will the spring be too long?)
And if somebody has problems with a stuck cable always remember rust penetrating spray almost never works, always use heat. I have a big blowtorch, but this time, because I needed a smaller flame, I went out and bought a creme brûlée torch for the lever end and it worked great.
2001 C4
And if somebody has problems with a stuck cable always remember rust penetrating spray almost never works, always use heat. I have a big blowtorch, but this time, because I needed a smaller flame, I went out and bought a creme brûlée torch for the lever end and it worked great.
2001 C4
10-17-2017, 04:46 PM
#2
Rennlist Member
After an exhausting three-day war between me and my old rusty handbreak cable I had removed 23 mm of the pipe at the wheel hub end. Will it work with a new cable? (Or will the spring be too long?)
And if somebody has problems with a stuck cable always remember rust penetrating spray almost never works, always use heat. I have a big blowtorch, but this time, because I needed a smaller flame, I went out and bought a creme brûlée torch for the lever end and it worked great.
2001 C4
And if somebody has problems with a stuck cable always remember rust penetrating spray almost never works, always use heat. I have a big blowtorch, but this time, because I needed a smaller flame, I went out and bought a creme brûlée torch for the lever end and it worked great.
2001 C4
10-17-2017, 06:59 PM
#4
Race Director
It breaks your hand. Can you not read? 
OP, it sounds like you had to chop the end off of the cable tube for the parking brake. Is that correct? If that's the case, you need to shorten the cable or extend the tube to its original length. If I'm on crack and the cable is not adjustable, you could add a short length of tubing and flare one end to allow it to mate with the original guide tube.
The cable is adjustable from the cabin end:
OP, it sounds like you had to chop the end off of the cable tube for the parking brake. Is that correct? If that's the case, you need to shorten the cable or extend the tube to its original length. If I'm on crack and the cable is not adjustable, you could add a short length of tubing and flare one end to allow it to mate with the original guide tube.
The cable is adjustable from the cabin end:
10-17-2017, 07:04 PM
#5
Pro
It breaks your hand. Can you not read?
OP, it sounds like you had to chop the end off of the cable tube for the parking brake. Is that correct? If that's the case, you need to shorten the cable or extend the tube to its original length. If I'm on crack and the cable is not adjustable, you could add a short length of tubing and flare one end to allow it to mate with the original guide tube.
The cable is adjustable from the cabin end:
OP, it sounds like you had to chop the end off of the cable tube for the parking brake. Is that correct? If that's the case, you need to shorten the cable or extend the tube to its original length. If I'm on crack and the cable is not adjustable, you could add a short length of tubing and flare one end to allow it to mate with the original guide tube.
The cable is adjustable from the cabin end:
10-17-2017, 07:57 PM
#6
Three Wheelin'
After an exhausting three-day war between me and my old rusty handbreak cable I had removed 23 mm of the pipe at the wheel hub end. Will it work with a new cable? (Or will the spring be too long?)
And if somebody has problems with a stuck cable always remember rust penetrating spray almost never works, always use heat. I have a big blowtorch, but this time, because I needed a smaller flame, I went out and bought a creme brûlée torch for the lever end and it worked great.
Strange thread.
And if somebody has problems with a stuck cable always remember rust penetrating spray almost never works, always use heat. I have a big blowtorch, but this time, because I needed a smaller flame, I went out and bought a creme brûlée torch for the lever end and it worked great.
Strange thread.
10-18-2017, 09:30 AM
#7
Good info! I've got a rusted out/ broken cable on my right rear wheel. The left one still works, but it is a project I want to get done so I can get both sides working again (even though I think it's going to be nightmarish)... Any pointers regarding the cables/tubes them selves would be appreciated.
At the wheel hub end I soaked it in penetrating spray and took a screwdriver that I used to hammer in the cable. The guide tube/pipe broke in half. So apply heat and don’t hammer too hard.
At the other end, underneath the backseat I again soaked it in penetrating spray and applied heat from a small torch. A lot of hammering on the tube/cable cap, a little more heat and then just pulled the cable out (with force). The tube didn’t break in that end. When working underneath a car, remember safety first.
OP, it sounds like you had to chop the end off of the cable tube for the parking brake. Is that correct? If that's the case, you need to shorten the cable or extend the tube to its original length. If I'm on crack and the cable is not adjustable, you could add a short length of tubing and flare one end to allow it to mate with the original guide tube.
Here you can see my now roughly 1 inch too short guide tube.
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10-18-2017, 01:18 PM
#8
Race Director
It might be worth wandering down the motorcycle aisle at your local auto parts store and see if there's a brake adjustment screw or throttle cable adjustment screw that could be re-purposed for your needs...
Something like this, but large enough on the big end to accommodate the guide tube:
Something like this, but large enough on the big end to accommodate the guide tube: