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So an update...the local Indy shop did the sam position sensor replacement and verified that the variocam actuator is working and physically inspected timing...and it appears timing is off. They are saying could be slack in chains, pads/tensioners, or possibly IMS (even though it is an LN retrofit). They are going to removed covers in next couple days, but not looking too great right now.
So an update...the local Indy shop did the sam position sensor replacement and verified that the variocam actuator is working and physically inspected timing...and it appears timing is off. They are saying could be slack in chains, pads/tensioners, or possibly IMS (even though it is an LN retrofit). They are going to removed covers in next couple days, but not looking too great right now.
Yup, that's what the code complains about. Hopefully they will check the oil and oil pan for debris.
OP.Suggest you discuss your 'while you are in there' list to make virtue from necessity.
The Indy confirms your Cam Sensor was defective? Really? If so keep the one they removed for bench testing
So wanted to provide an update and HOPEFULLY this issue is now in the rear view mirror. I picked up the car yesterday from the shop, and have enough miles on it that it was able to be inspected. Knock on wood...
So a bunch of things transpired since last update. But the long and short of it is that both actuators seem to have been on their way out. Operating sometimes, not responding at all sometimes and sometimes being "lazy". Early on we replaced both cam position sensors (both banks) to no avail. Initially a smoke test (done when over 50 degrees) showed no vacuum leaks...but when car was below 50 degrees a subsequent smoke test showed several vacuum leaks. Once solved that stopped the misfire codes, but we were still getting timing codes.
Outer pads on the variocam actuators looked OK (not great) but inners were really worn. That couple with the intermittent nature of actuation and release we ended up replacing both actuators. Photos of the parts replaced can be found at http://www.photoplace.com/Cars/2000-...-2017-18-work/
So hopefully this long and drawn out journey is ending...my early porsche ownership experience has not been great. Now tucked away in the garage until salt off the roads for a more extended drive. Pinion bearing is also giving up the ghost so a rebuilt transmission (or good used one) will be in order next. If anyone has a lead there send it my way!
Just out of curiosity, and not to poor salt in the wound, but how much did all the work cost? Also, if you know, about how much was it to have the pads changed? Thanks!
Interesting question. In my case a general knowledge of other engines was of little value. An M96 expert who has listened to hundreds of 'ticking' M96 engines and chased many Fault Codes. would have been most likely able to pinpoint the issue. And give a quote for fixing it ! At work we seldom work on Porsches. None of us would do PPI on a Porsche. But such prudent modesty does not deter others :-). My conclusion is to find and cultivate a relationship with an M96 guy long before you buy one. And meanwhile, enjoy driving your Miata :-)
I had this problem recently. Car was running fine and then recently heard a loud tapping/ticking sound which I thought was a bad lifter. Then all of a sudden I had a very rough idle, stalling at idle, hard to stay at stable idle once started, shaking, etc. These symptoms would be alleviated by giving the car some gas but not always. Once the car was at normal speeds, it would rev fine with no loss of power and rev freely to redline. The only issue was at idle speeds. Then the check engine light comes on and begins blinking. Thinking maybe there was an issue with the MAF, I plugged in the code reader and get P0300, P0301, P0302, P0300 codes all at once and all cylinders are on the driver side bank. WTF? I had recently replaced all spark plugs and coils only 2,000 miles ago.
So I took the muffler off to take a look at the spark plugs and coils. All 3 spark plugs were loose and I could turn them with my hands! I remember not tightening these too tightly for fear of stripping and not torqueing to 22ft/lbs as well as applying anti-seize (just a dab), all of which are a big no-no looking back. This accounted for the tapping sound which I had thought was a bad lifter valve. Basically the spark plug was loose and rattling.
I replaced all 3 spark plugs, torqued down to 22ft/lbs and just an extra little twist for good measure. Problem solved.
10-27-2017, 12:22 PM
