Chewed Up Bolt Found in Oil Pan
#31
Thanks
#32
Rennlist Member
A few things interesting in your sump photos. The bolt on the oil scrapper should be an internal hex but yours is a torx. Similar for the other bolts on the sump swirl pots.
Hard to tell how long the broken bolt is. The ones on the cam sprocket are 12mm long. The other possibilities I can think of are case bolts and cam cover bolts (both quite long though).
Hard to tell how long the broken bolt is. The ones on the cam sprocket are 12mm long. The other possibilities I can think of are case bolts and cam cover bolts (both quite long though).
#33
Rennlist Member
Good Idea. I am also going to use a borascope up through the two openings where I can see the crank with the oil pan cover off. I will not do anything until I get my report from Blackstone (not even refilling oil) and I will continue to check this threads for other recommendations.
Thanks
Thanks
#34
Rennlist Member
I can't imagine an internal bolt coming loose and somehow making its way into the sump - unless it's one of the bolts that resides in the sump. Purely speculating here, but my bet is that it was dropped in during a repair or oil change.
#35
Burning Brakes
My main concern would be how the bolt was twisted and split. Unless you drove your car upside down, the bolt damage happened coming down to the sump - don't know how a "good" bolt would work back up into the engine.
I think only the chain and rotating components could damage the bolt leading to possible damage to that component.
My concern would be that the damaged component leads to a bigger failure like a chain letting loose or some type of oil failure. The various components that could be damaged down the road are pretty expensive.
If you tear the engine down, I would check the oil strainers, under one of the hydraulic actuators in each head feeding, I believe the cam compensators, to remove any trapped metal along with all other metal particles.
This is a weird situation because I don't recall any male torx above the sump. I could see someone trying to replace the case bolts under the bell housing during an IMS job, and dropping one in the case.
I think only the chain and rotating components could damage the bolt leading to possible damage to that component.
My concern would be that the damaged component leads to a bigger failure like a chain letting loose or some type of oil failure. The various components that could be damaged down the road are pretty expensive.
If you tear the engine down, I would check the oil strainers, under one of the hydraulic actuators in each head feeding, I believe the cam compensators, to remove any trapped metal along with all other metal particles.
This is a weird situation because I don't recall any male torx above the sump. I could see someone trying to replace the case bolts under the bell housing during an IMS job, and dropping one in the case.
Last edited by tomcat; 09-14-2017 at 11:00 PM. Reason: Grammar check
#36
My main concern would be how the bolt was twisted and split. Unless you drove your car upside down, the bolt damage happened coming down to the sump - don't know how a "good" bolt would work back up into the engine.
I think only the chain and rotating components could damage the bolt leading to possible damage to that component.
My concern would be that the damaged component leads to a bigger failure like a chain letting loose or some type of oil failure. The various components that could be damaged down the road are pretty expensive.
If you tearthe engine down, I would check the oil strainers, under one of the hydraulic actuators in each head feeding, I believe the cam compensators, to remove any trapped metal along with all other metal particles.
This is a weird situation because I don't recall any male torx above the sump. I could see someone trying to replace the case bolts under the bell housing during an IMS job, and dropping one in the case.
I think only the chain and rotating components could damage the bolt leading to possible damage to that component.
My concern would be that the damaged component leads to a bigger failure like a chain letting loose or some type of oil failure. The various components that could be damaged down the road are pretty expensive.
If you tearthe engine down, I would check the oil strainers, under one of the hydraulic actuators in each head feeding, I believe the cam compensators, to remove any trapped metal along with all other metal particles.
This is a weird situation because I don't recall any male torx above the sump. I could see someone trying to replace the case bolts under the bell housing during an IMS job, and dropping one in the case.
#37
Rennlist Member
If that came off, got chewed up and somehow got into the sump it would have been very noticeable. The fact that you discovered it by accident and not during a tear down following catastrophic engine failure leads me to believe it was dropped in during an oil change or somehow assembled with it in there. Best course of action may be to change the oil and continue driving as you have been.
Im assuming everything has seemed normal thus far.
Im assuming everything has seemed normal thus far.
#38
This may be stupid and does not really explain the damage to the bolt, but looking at your first pic the bolt has the same markings as the bolt on the oil pan baffle. There are three bolts holding the baffle on. Are they all there?
#39
Burning Brakes
The hope would be that the bolt did not do any internal damage. Tearing down the engine now would be expensive so maybe just listen for weird noises, which you probably do now, and monitor the oil for new metal as a sign for further damage. Feel the oil for nonferrous and a magnet for steel during oil changes.
Honestly, my experience has been that a large majority of the internals are wear parts and should be replaced when rebuilt for any expected longevity. If you continue to drive the car and have a failure, maybe you won't really need additional parts. As long as your crank, bearing carrier, IMS shaft sprockets, camshafts, bearing saddles in the head, and case are ok, most other parts should be replaced anyway during a rebuild.
Sorry you have to go through this. The cost for these types of repairs/parts are ridiculous relative to the cost of the car, and lays bare our insanity.
Honestly, my experience has been that a large majority of the internals are wear parts and should be replaced when rebuilt for any expected longevity. If you continue to drive the car and have a failure, maybe you won't really need additional parts. As long as your crank, bearing carrier, IMS shaft sprockets, camshafts, bearing saddles in the head, and case are ok, most other parts should be replaced anyway during a rebuild.
Sorry you have to go through this. The cost for these types of repairs/parts are ridiculous relative to the cost of the car, and lays bare our insanity.
#40
Rennlist Member
Who ever dropped it had to know he did so...
#41
Rennlist Member
I'm also in the 'somebody dropped a bolt' camp...
Even if the mechanic realized he did it, it probably didn't make it's way all the way down to the oil pan until sometime later so no even semi-easy fix. Probably didn't want to fess up to his boss or the customer realizing it might very well cost the shop a small fortune as well as his job.
Reminds me of the time I dropped a valve shim while working on my own KTM moto... Baby was GONE but not down all the way down to the oil pan. Choices were pull the engine and split the cases (BIG job!) or hope for the best. i chose option B. Ran the bike for a while listening carefully for any noises, did an oil change and found the shim in the filter screen with a few scuffs but undamaged. Engine has been running like a top for many years and miles since...
Even if the mechanic realized he did it, it probably didn't make it's way all the way down to the oil pan until sometime later so no even semi-easy fix. Probably didn't want to fess up to his boss or the customer realizing it might very well cost the shop a small fortune as well as his job.
Reminds me of the time I dropped a valve shim while working on my own KTM moto... Baby was GONE but not down all the way down to the oil pan. Choices were pull the engine and split the cases (BIG job!) or hope for the best. i chose option B. Ran the bike for a while listening carefully for any noises, did an oil change and found the shim in the filter screen with a few scuffs but undamaged. Engine has been running like a top for many years and miles since...
#42
If you have the service history, check if the oil fillertube has been changed.
It's secured with one m6x16 bolt.
When I changed mine, I noticed that it would be quite easy to drop the bolt in to the engine, if not being cautious.
It would go thru crankcase and end to the bottom of the oilpan. Worst case it would stop on the crankshaft carrier and fell thru when engine was running.
It's secured with one m6x16 bolt.
When I changed mine, I noticed that it would be quite easy to drop the bolt in to the engine, if not being cautious.
It would go thru crankcase and end to the bottom of the oilpan. Worst case it would stop on the crankshaft carrier and fell thru when engine was running.
#43
Race Car
This thread is fascinating, sorry to the OP for the situation but im in the human error camp too. Interesting point on the oil filler neck that could solve this mystery!
#44
Banned
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Another win for the lowly magnetic oil drain plug.
Send Jake Raby a PM and ask him to comment.
Send Jake Raby a PM and ask him to comment.
#45
Rennlist Member
IIRC the oil filler tube is secured by 2 bolts...The dipstick is secured by only 1