texcwa

I have been researching suspensions here on REN for awhile. Thought I had made up my mind on ROW M030 since I do not track and have a steep driveway into garage so did not want to lower the car too much. This thread is making me think that I should consider the Ohlins Road and Track so I was hoping someone could clarify a couple of responses above:

Someone asked how much it lowered the car and the response was sim to the ROW M030. Could someone give me a more accurate answer? Again, concerned about my garage entry.

Also, I believe the thread started mentioned that he did not change the sway bars, is this correct?

Although the Ohlins are about $1,000.00 more than the M030 (which comes with sway bars) I like what I have read about a softer ride under normal driving with better than M030 response in the cornering,

Thanks and hope others that run these coil overs can convince me to go with this setup.

captain pabst

Hope I can help, i have the same setup on my car, at recommended install it drops 20mm as stated by Ohlins, this is based off of a Euro car so it is 50mm drop. in the instructions they mention the max height and so on

https://www.ohlins.eu/download/db/Oh...--00000142.pdf

https://www.ohlins.eu/download/db/Oh...--00000075.pdf

I am also running with the stock sway bar.

There are also 30 clicks on mine but i doubt there is any adjustment from 20 clicks out to 30 clicks out as the needle would be so far out of the seat at that point.

Hope this helps, I have yet to have mine serviced which will kind of suck as they will need to be sent to Ohlins USA in North Carolina. There may be other places for service that I don't know about turn around time was 4 days plus shipping for some bike stuff I recently had done by them.

DeanClevername

I'm the OP and can confirm I'm running with stock (base, non m030) roll bars. The balance is good as it is, so I don't want to mess it up. I am still considering upgraded sways, but upgrading my driving is probably more important.

Sorry I don't have specifics on the ride height. I told the shop that corner balanced it that ROW m030 was probably a good target. I never bothered to measure it to get a precise height. I could have gone lower with my stock bumper, but I just don't want to have to mess with creeping over grades and speed bumps at insane angles.

If you're really concerned about being low and having garage entry you could probably measure the minimum angle needed to clear and then back into your lowest possible ride height.

The ride quality remains exceptional on softer settings. Any harshness I experience is more a factor if the tires, pressures, and unsprung weight. Compared to m030 or x74 cars I've been in, my current setup rides better and is better in the corners. The x74 feels like it has a similar roll stiffness (when my dampers are set stiff), but the x74 body control over mid-corner bumps doesn't feel anywhere near as good.

Silk

On the ride height

By default the car gets lowered 25mm compared to stock with adjusability ±15mm

In my case after installing the coilovers the car got corner balanced this resulted in around 19-21mm lower in front and 18-20mm in the rear.

Did not want to go too low as it might affect balance in the car considering all the rest of the suspension remained stock. Furthermore it is my daily driver and having speed bumps in mind a moderate lowering was preferred. Also have the X51-style oil pan but installed a skid plate to be on the safe side.

DeanClevername

Little update for year 2. I still love these coilovers, but I've made an alignment change that has compromised street ride quality so I'll note that here for people concerned about daily use. I was able to bump up my front camber by about -.5 to -1.4 and I bumped up rear by -.03 to -2.2 degrees. The car loves the camber, but it is now much more sensitive to unsmooth pavement where the shocks can't really do much to help out the fact I'm making the tires' inside sidewall absorb more road imperfection. Bumps and impacts are still well controlled, it's just certain type of roads (like concrete overpasses or bridges that are not very smooth, or all of I-95 within 30 minutes south of NYC) that cause the car to be a bit jittery now. It's the kind of small but high frequency jitter that gives you new rattles and annoys your wife.

That said for my use this is a very, very minor annoyance and is absolutely worth the NVH compromise. I also find the camber no longer necessitates running 4 clicks from full stiff at autocross. 5-6 seems like the new sweet spot with the pressures I run, but more events this season will tell on that front.

awrryan

Steveadp

Yes Thanks Im about to pull the trigger as well for my 2001 996 Turbo that needs front top mounts and shocks.. Based on the quotes it makes more sense to replace all 4 corners with this set up..

DeanClevername

The Turbo might be different, but the set for my 996 c2 did not include top mounts. You could reuse or source new OEM top mounts, or upgrade to something like Tarret's monoballs

jlucas

I have spent several weeks now with Ohlins on the #supercommuter 4L; it's on the street setting (10 clicks). -5mm from the std Ohlins recommended height setting up front, std in the back. Very impressed with the damping. It was really the thing the car was missing. Previously with H&R springs with stock dampers it always felt under damped. Sharp road inputs (ex: bridge seams) have increased NVH but I'm ok with the tradeoff. Highly recommended if you like a sporty responsive ride that is well controlled and are ok with the NVH tradeoff.

lowpue

Finally read this thread....Great original post...I wish I read this earlier because I was hesitating with the R&T's to replace my JRZ double adjustable setup. I ended up going with the Ohlin R&T GT3 setup and OMG, the car was a different animal and aligns with your right up...Real happy with the decision. Big fan of R&T.

DeanClevername

That's an awesome comparison to hear about in addition to the usual OEM or Bilstein options, JRZs are fantastic. I always just assumed the JRZs would be better than the R&T, but I had never heard from anyone who had back to back experience with both on the same car. Great info!

gnarbowski

Sounds like the Ohlins R&T are the way to go. Their price point completely obliterates anything from JRZ.

jbse39

I had TPC guys do install on mine, and they did mention Tractive may have passive damper (not to be confused with their DDA RT active damper offerings) but said that they could not be price-competitive to Ohlins R&T, and more importantly, while trying to match the quality. They also said that JRZ looked at entry-level offering as well but ran into the same challenge, apparently. I haven't looked at JRZ to see what is available from them but am happy with Ohlins on my car.

Luch

Very good information in here, thanks for the updates as well. I was leaning towards the Bilstein PSS10's but this may be a better route to go. seem like they are priced a bit better also.
Isn't there some sort of regular 'maintenance' at just about 30K miles I thought I read on their website? Curious if you knew anything more from that since the purchase.

Chris

captain pabst

recommended servicing every 2 years or 20k miles if my memory is correct. I'm at 2.5 years and 8k miles.

the issue is that the oil breaks down and wear particles build up in the fluid which increases wear on the internals