cold start, engine tapping/slapping, possible cause
#16
Rennlist Member
And here is mine, too: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Z5IrhKTYEcc
Wow, I cannot wait to try to see if it's the hose knocking instead of a rod or piston, lol
Wow, I cannot wait to try to see if it's the hose knocking instead of a rod or piston, lol
yours sounds a bit more internal, constant, idk
#17
Rennlist Member
Mike....I will be very interested to find out your results and I am looking to re-test tomorrow or later today considering I only ran it at idle for about 3 minutes.
If you want me to come over and push on the hose so we can get some better data, let me know.
If you want me to come over and push on the hose so we can get some better data, let me know.
#18
Pro
Thread Starter
I am going to unhook the make-shift velcro strap I now have securing mine and see if the noise returns. But unfortunately I had to put down my dog last week, a 16 1/2 year old shih tzu. I just haven't been it good spirits to do much anything since.
But I will get around to test mine soon and report. Let me know how yours goes.
If this turns out to be a "thing" a lot of owners will be mighty relieved.
#19
Rennlist Member
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z5IrhKTYEcc&app=desktop
yours sounds a bit more internal, constant, idk
yours sounds a bit more internal, constant, idk
#20
Pro
Thread Starter
I just snapped 2 photos.
Both are with the snorkel removed.
The one with the arrows: the single tip arrow is pointing to the rubber hose that attaches to the aluminum pipe that then runs rearward. The double tipped arrow shows the make-shift velcro strap that I have holding the pipe secure. It wraps around the rubber portion then around the metal bracket of the SAI pump. It more less prevents the coolant pipe from moving side to side. If you look close I also have a plastic clip tie holding the straps down so it does not slip up and off the pipe. This was the easiest way to secure it temporarily without having to actually get back in there and replace the OEM clip which is actually on the aluminum portion.
If your clip is completely missing, you can grab where I show the single tipped arrow and pull left and right, and the pipe will move several inches from left to right. As you do this look back at the aluminum portion and you will see it moving sie to side.
FYI. The single tipped arrow is a good place to hold the pipe (the rubber part) when you cold start it. If you hold it here instead of actually reaching back and grabbing the aluminum portion, just make sure you push towards the left side of the car. It's not really an up and down motion that this pipe has when it rattles, it's side to side.
The other photo simply traces the route of the velcro strap.
Sorry in advance if the photos are rotated...
Also, Paul, if I understand correctly, yours may be rattling even with the clip intact. Maybe the case that the clips look intact, but have become loose and not supporting the pipe as it should. Just a thought.
Best test is to have a competent friend grab the pipe at start up as the slapping/tapping is occurring and see if it stops abruptly.
Both are with the snorkel removed.
The one with the arrows: the single tip arrow is pointing to the rubber hose that attaches to the aluminum pipe that then runs rearward. The double tipped arrow shows the make-shift velcro strap that I have holding the pipe secure. It wraps around the rubber portion then around the metal bracket of the SAI pump. It more less prevents the coolant pipe from moving side to side. If you look close I also have a plastic clip tie holding the straps down so it does not slip up and off the pipe. This was the easiest way to secure it temporarily without having to actually get back in there and replace the OEM clip which is actually on the aluminum portion.
If your clip is completely missing, you can grab where I show the single tipped arrow and pull left and right, and the pipe will move several inches from left to right. As you do this look back at the aluminum portion and you will see it moving sie to side.
FYI. The single tipped arrow is a good place to hold the pipe (the rubber part) when you cold start it. If you hold it here instead of actually reaching back and grabbing the aluminum portion, just make sure you push towards the left side of the car. It's not really an up and down motion that this pipe has when it rattles, it's side to side.
The other photo simply traces the route of the velcro strap.
Sorry in advance if the photos are rotated...
Also, Paul, if I understand correctly, yours may be rattling even with the clip intact. Maybe the case that the clips look intact, but have become loose and not supporting the pipe as it should. Just a thought.
Best test is to have a competent friend grab the pipe at start up as the slapping/tapping is occurring and see if it stops abruptly.
#21
On the MkII engines, there's a clip that holds down that big house. not sure if you have that on the 3.4L and whether the clip will help.
The big clip on the left head (bank 1)
The clip holding the fat coolant hose.
The big clip on the left head (bank 1)
The clip holding the fat coolant hose.
#22
Pro
Thread Starter
Yes, that rubber portion but not the portion that goes downward.
The upper portion that travels to the left and attaches to the aluminum portion that then turns and runs forward to the front of the car.
See the photos in earlier posts. #8, green arrow.
The upper portion that travels to the left and attaches to the aluminum portion that then turns and runs forward to the front of the car.
See the photos in earlier posts. #8, green arrow.
#24
Pro
Thread Starter
Cool. Even if that clip is missing, given the hose is rubber at that portion it wouldn't make much noise since it's rubber. The aluminum section will if it gets to dancing around.
#26
Rennlist Member
maybe just a hunch, but when I did the 30k service on my car
I paid special attention to reinstalling the heat shields
(I had the bumper off as I was installing aftermarket muffys)
when I think about the construction of those shields and the sounds they made when being handled
yours could be just as simple as that, a loose heat shield
why not start simple ?
#27
Pro
Thread Starter
Thanks, but we haven't yet confirmed a correlation.
As I mentioned earlier, my car has made this noise upon cold start since I've owned it (going on 2 years and 8K miles, many cold starts.) Once I secured this pipe, noise gone and yet to return as of about 10 cold starts.
I am going to undo the velcro strap and see if the noise returns, but haven't yet done so. When I do, and if the noise returns, well then we have correlation.
As I mentioned earlier, my car has made this noise upon cold start since I've owned it (going on 2 years and 8K miles, many cold starts.) Once I secured this pipe, noise gone and yet to return as of about 10 cold starts.
I am going to undo the velcro strap and see if the noise returns, but haven't yet done so. When I do, and if the noise returns, well then we have correlation.
#28
Rennlist Member
Just did another test....had the knocking noise, put my hand on rubber coolant pipe (which I had put a tie wrap around the factory connector between it and the smaller pipe) and it made the noise for just a few seconds and I can't tell if anything I did made it go away or if it just wasn't "cold" enough from this morning. I only idled it for about 3 minutes this morning.
#29
Pro
Thread Starter
Just did another test....had the knocking noise, put my hand on rubber coolant pipe (which I had put a tie wrap around the factory connector between it and the smaller pipe) and it made the noise for just a few seconds and I can't tell if anything I did made it go away or if it just wasn't "cold" enough from this morning. I only idled it for about 3 minutes this morning.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8YP8X3Pp2Fk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8YP8X3Pp2Fk
If your clip is totally missing you should also be able to push it to the left and right. You will feel about 2 or 3 inches of travel. I believe it is the side to side motion that is of concern not so much it bouncing up and down. Given our engines are flat sixes the vibration is more side to side. Then once the pipe pressurizes and the rubber connector pipes stiffen the aluminum portion is stable enough and the slapping/tapping stops.
#30
Rennlist Member
So I did another test this morning, I have to take back what I said yesterday.....the pipe seemed to have nothing to do with the noise. I think it was just so warm out that the noise went away so fast at idle, like less than 30 seconds. If it's cold outside, say less than 60 F, it continues to make the noise longer.
That's a bummer.
That's a bummer.