Turbo S Ducts
#18
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by 911PERVY
how did you come to the position of the ducts/hole in wing?
Is there a TSB with dimensions?
Is there a TSB with dimensions?
I tried and taped a huge transparent paper on a turbo S, to try to outline
but it did not work since the door seam is not precise, and neither on top or under the inlet area.
For example, the wheel arch is untraceable. If you tape a paper on wheel arch,
you will see that the small bends in metal are rather small curbs.
You try to trace with a pencil....impossible.
Daydreamed a few days to find the solution.
When you have the air inlets in your hand, you will see that the top of each inlet is a straight line.
The other precise given in the area, is the door handle holes.
Went from there, and traced them to the millimeter from original.
Pretty easy to figure with pictures I will post
Originally Posted by 911PERVY
How did you feel cutting the hole in the wing?
this overtook any fear
In the procedure to trace the actual location of the inlet, I held the inlets approx. on the fender and traced all around reducing the actual trace by 2 centimeters on the contour.
Then I cut the metal, tracing the smaller circle. This is where I practiced cutting for the big circle.
I was left with a smaller hole than the air inlet piece.
But now the air inlet could SIT in the small template hole, and its edge is like a lip all around on the wing.
Took a long thick rubber band, hooked it on a pencil, inserted the rubber band
in the air inlet, and hooked the band inside the fender ( on the fuel canister)
So the air inlet piece held on the wing, and I could adjust its position 2 cms in any direction.
After precise measurements, I traced the actual air inlet contour.
And cutting the actual hole went very smooth.
Would be clearer with pictures
#21
#22
Rennlist Member
how about a result like this ?
update today
update today
#24
Rennlist Member
thank you
just off the hauler today from full bare metal repaint
just off the hauler today from full bare metal repaint
#27
Rennlist Member
nice work.
#29
Rennlist Member
for future reference, time spent:
prepping, measuring, tracing, cutting= 3 hours first inlet , second inlet only half an hour .
MIG soldering, metal shrinking, working = 1 hour each. (have to work slow for metal not to warp) and the
fact that I have never Mig soldered
TIN soldering = half an hour / side
Mental prep after acquiring scoops = countless in hour scale
Rosé (pink) Wine = zero within, buckets overnight
I like them so much, better results would be a sin, thank you all
ps; I did the sanding down to bare metal, 2 coats of etch primer and 3 coats of sealer primer on the whole car.
But it was not me who did the sanding-leveling of the primer, and the painting. I am null with that.
prepping, measuring, tracing, cutting= 3 hours first inlet , second inlet only half an hour .
MIG soldering, metal shrinking, working = 1 hour each. (have to work slow for metal not to warp) and the
fact that I have never Mig soldered
TIN soldering = half an hour / side
Mental prep after acquiring scoops = countless in hour scale
Rosé (pink) Wine = zero within, buckets overnight
I like them so much, better results would be a sin, thank you all
ps; I did the sanding down to bare metal, 2 coats of etch primer and 3 coats of sealer primer on the whole car.
But it was not me who did the sanding-leveling of the primer, and the painting. I am null with that.