GRUWEZ

With my Turbo's engine out, it is time to fix all those pesky oil leaks. I have new rubber gaskets for the valve covers and the timing chain covers, but I was wondering if I also need to use some kind of sealant (Loc-Tite). If so, which sealant would be recommended?

Thanks!

WingChun

I used some 574 on the chain covers because it a ton of work to get to them with motor in car and didn't fancy doing it again.
Used only the gasket on the valve covers and there have been no leaks since from either area.
Some shops always change the valve covers when doing this, I chose to risk it and reuse mine.

Mike J

Never use sealant on valve covers and chain covers, and have had good luck so far on multiple cars - but I do coat the rubber gaskets with Dow Corning 111 - that helps to keep the rubber supple.

I would not use 574 because that sealant likes rigid surfaces, not a rubber based surface like a chain cover. However, it will not hurt since any excess inside will just wash into the oil. However, do not use a silicon or other sealers that ooze on the oil side and possibly get loose - those are the worse. I have taken valve covers off that I consider hack jobs - tons of gooey silicon based sealant. It take a lot of time to clean them up, then fresh gaskets, PROPER TORQUE, and no leaks.

:-)

Cheers,

Mike

No HTwo O

Just had the valve covers and gaskets (lower) replaced this week. I'll ask my indy (Fischer) what they used, if any. I did not see any "sealant" listed on my invoice, though. Mine were not leaking, per se, just weaping, and I wanted to stay ahead of the maintenance curve, and pace/space some of this stuff out.

While the Turbo was there, I also had an oil change, new MAF sensor, plugs, fuel filter, air filter, and updated UMW oil line on passanger's side turbo (driver's side was done in early 2010).

Droops83

I agree 100%. I looked up Dow Corning 111 and it looks to be a silicone based grease, which is good. I use a Wurth silicone grease and lightly coat the inner surface of the gaskets (the side that faces the inside of the valve or chain cover). This helps to ensure that the gasket is lubricated and fully conforms to the inside of the channel as the cover is torqued down. This, combined with proper tightening of the bolts (I personally do it by feel, but that is due to experience). Use the factory 7 ft-lbs as a guide, but you should also feel the metal inserts in the plastic covers fully seat as you carefully tighten the bolt down. Torque the bolts in the recommended cross pattern, from the middle outwards using several stages. Following these procedures has ensured that I have never had one come back leaking.

Mike J

Great stuff Chris, I do exactly the same thing! I do have a torque wrench that will do the 7 ft-lbs, but I usually end up doing it by feel anyways since a few of the positions is difficult to get the wrench in.

Sprintrider

Hi,

I have developed a leak on the left side head cover from one bolt (lower middle). The oil now leaks onto the exhaust so it starts smoking after the exhaust gets hot.

Luckily I can reach the bolt once the rear wheel is removed. I could be wrong but it definately looks like it's coming out of the bolt washer and not the gasket.

Is there an easy fix by putting some sealant on the bolt and torqing in down to seal the bolt hole? (or is this just wishful thinking)

I am hoping to seal the bolt up and give it a try before spending a fortune taking it into a mechanic for a head cover gasket replacements.

Any experience or advice is much appreciated.

Mike J

If its coming out of the bolt washer, then the oil is getting past the gasket - the gaskets run inside the bolt, but if they leak, it can make the bolts wet.

You can try the hack job of fixing it with sealant, but 99% of the time it does not work.

Why don't you just replace them yourselves? The gaskets are cheap, like $35/side, and your labour is free, so you can do the entire job for less than $100. If you end up with a problem (like frozen nuts on the turbos) its a problem that you would have to pay your mechanic to get past anyways.

The turbos are a bit trickier for sure because you need to remove the turbo's to properly get at the valve cover gaskets. Unfortunately, cost of doing business.

Cheers,

Mike

Sprintrider

Thanks Mike,

I am considering doing it myself but am a little worried about properly taking off the turbos etc to reach the bolts. Is it a pretty easy job? I don't mind wrenching but am not an expert. It looks like the turbos as well as an exhaust manifold section must come off to get to the head cover. It's a flat piece of exhaust that lies below the head cover just to the front side of the Turbo.

I am not sure but maybe there's a DIY report from someone who has done this.

Also, is there any manual online that would give a step by step on this repair.

Thanks for the advice.

GRUWEZ

I am doing the same job you are contemplating -- and a bit more. Initially I started out with the idea of replacing the lower valve covers with the engine in the car. In the end I had no other choice then to drop the engine and do everything with the engine installed on my workbench. The main reason for this is the turbos. My car has seen 15 northwestern European winters, resulting in an awful amount of rusted bolts and fasteners. There was no way I could remove the turbos without dropping the engine for easier access to everything. For instance, the oil lines running from the top of each turbo to the upper end of the engine block were impossible to remove with the engine in the car, because I had to use a hacksaw to cut the rusted oil lines in half. Also, all nuts and studs on the turbos were in a lamentable condition. A sharp chisel and a hammer were my tools of choice...

I see that you are in Nevada, where the climate is totally different from where I live. Chances are you will not face the problems I encountered, so you may well be able to do the job with the engine in the car.

The trickiest valve cover to replace is the lower one on the driver's side. With the turbo removed, you are still faced with the exhaust manifold flange being awfully close to the valve cover. Between the valve cover and the manifold sits a heat shield. If you opt not to remove the exhaust manifold, you will have to install the heat shield and the valve cover in one go. In other words, you cannot bolt on the valve cover and then install the heat shield afterwards. The trick is to slide the valve cover and the heat shield together between the manifold flange and the engine block. Obviously, you will not be faced with this if you remove the exhaust manifold.

I am sure there are other members on this list with incredibly more experience than me. This is the first time I am tackling this job and I am learning as I go from one step to another. The good news is that advice is readily available here on Rennlist and that all parts are available from Porsche. The main problem I am facing is the notorious "while-I-am-at-it" syndrome. With the engine out of the car and on the workbench, this is becoming a lot more than just a valve cover replacement job.

Like I said, a lot depends on how easily you can remove the turbos. I definitely do not mean to discourage you, as the job itself is relatively simple.

WingChun

Sounds like you have a similar problem to what I had.
Having replaced all the valve cover gaskets and put turbos back etc, oil started leaking from 1 bolt around the metal insert where it meets the plastic.
I knew at that point the cover needed replacing but as a temporary fix until I was ready for that, I smeared a small amount of "JB Weld" onto the gap bewteen the plastic and the metal insert, then replaced the screw. This stuff sets rock hard and buys you some time.
There were no more leaks after that.
If you're replacing the covers anyway, good luck, just remember that when fitting the new turbo/cat sealing rings, put the flat side facing the turbo or like me you will get blowing exhaust. I made that mistake because the manual is not too clear.

96_993TT

When I did my lowers a couple years ago I used the OEM gasket with a very thin layer of Curil-T on each side. Torqued them to spec and haven't had even the slightest leak since.

No HTwo O

Since I had my LVC&G replaced, I miss some of that "air cooled Porsche aroma". It blended nicely with my Zaino Z10 Leather In A Bottle.