New clutch / biting point
#1
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New clutch / biting point
I had a new clutch fitted around 1000 miles ago and it bites very high. I've never had any slip issues but wondered what could have been installed incorrectly (if anything) to cause such an effect?
Maybe too many/few shims put in front/behind the release bearing?
I seem to recall the original releasing when the pedal was nearly right on the floor.
Maybe too many/few shims put in front/behind the release bearing?
I seem to recall the original releasing when the pedal was nearly right on the floor.
#2
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Your clutch bites !!!??? ......it must make it scary to drive the car !
Does it do it only when its hungry ?
or is it just play biting ?
Is there a clutch obediance school you can send it to ?
My GT2 clutch and LWF takes up about halfway.
Small range of take up, as you would expect...
Does Wilbur have a sibling yet ?
Does it do it only when its hungry ?
or is it just play biting ?
Is there a clutch obediance school you can send it to ?
My GT2 clutch and LWF takes up about halfway.
Small range of take up, as you would expect...
Does Wilbur have a sibling yet ?
#3
I had a new clutch fitted around 1000 miles ago and it bites very high. I've never had any slip issues but wondered what could have been installed incorrectly (if anything) to cause such an effect?
Maybe too many/few shims put in front/behind the release bearing?
I seem to recall the original releasing when the pedal was nearly right on the floor.
Maybe too many/few shims put in front/behind the release bearing?
I seem to recall the original releasing when the pedal was nearly right on the floor.
From what I have heard, if your flywheel or disk is worn it causes high engagement, also that every slave cylinder is slightly different, each causing slightly different engagement points. Did the tech re-use a worn flywheel, did he change the slave cylinder?
FWIW, when I first bought my car it engaged very high, but at that time the clutch was worn to the rivets. When I changed it out to the lightweight flywheel set up, with new clutch disk, slave..etc it engaged closer to the floor and felt much better...
The tech should have put the spring washer then two shims behind the release bearing when installing it to the pressure plate, I do not know what the effect would be by missing a shim. The workshop manual says two should be used however.
-Jay
#5
Kevin... I have the same issue, my clutch seem to engage "high"
is there any adjustment that can be made "like a old cable style clutch?"
I'd really like to have the engagement lower...
(this is with the new setup you sent me last december, it has only 2k miles on it... FWIW it holds the power with zero issues!) :-)
is there any adjustment that can be made "like a old cable style clutch?"
I'd really like to have the engagement lower...
(this is with the new setup you sent me last december, it has only 2k miles on it... FWIW it holds the power with zero issues!) :-)
#7
does anyone have a copy of the "bleeding" clutch procedure?
I'd really like it to engage lower, I even bought the new "accumuilator tihng" while I was in there just in case...
a quick fix would be like finding money!!!! sweet! :-)
I'd really like it to engage lower, I even bought the new "accumuilator tihng" while I was in there just in case...
a quick fix would be like finding money!!!! sweet! :-)
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Purchase a pump up canister pressure bleeder $59.00 and pressurize the clutch system..
Jump under the car and open the bleed valve (located on the slave cylinder)similar to bleeding ones brake system.
Jump under the car and open the bleed valve (located on the slave cylinder)similar to bleeding ones brake system.
#11
I don't know what components were installed on your cars. But with mine (Kevins kit) it is the RS LWFW, GT3RS Clutch Disk (996 part#), Sachs Motorsport '999' pressure plate with the correct throw out bearing and guide tube (throw out bearing and guide tube are not the same as stock).
I took the time to install and torque the pressure plate properly, with Kevins advise. And I changed the slave, accumulator and hydraulic line. I spent a half hour bleeding the system. My clutch engages right in the middle.
I took the time to install and torque the pressure plate properly, with Kevins advise. And I changed the slave, accumulator and hydraulic line. I spent a half hour bleeding the system. My clutch engages right in the middle.
#12
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I would think bleeding any air out of the clutch actuation system would in fact raise the friction point. Meaning, one would have to actuate further to get past any 'air' to create hydraulic work.