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Old 06-25-2017, 04:12 PM
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Silver Surfer
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Default Rear Links Questions

I am considering installing the ERP adjustable rear toe links, camber links, and kinematic links. Is it necessary to do them all at the same time? If it is not necessary to do them at the same time, is there a sequence in which they should preferably be done? Does one or the other make a bigger impact?
Old 06-25-2017, 04:59 PM
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nine9six
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Originally Posted by Silver Surfer
I am considering installing the ERP adjustable rear toe links, camber links, and kinematic links. Is it necessary to do them all at the same time? If it is not necessary to do them at the same time, is there a sequence in which they should preferably be done? Does one or the other make a bigger impact?
I guess the first question is what is your car doing or not doing and what are you trying to achieve with the ERP links? A bigger impact to what?

Is this a track car?
Old 06-25-2017, 05:16 PM
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Bill Verburg
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Originally Posted by Silver Surfer
I am considering installing the ERP adjustable rear toe links, camber links, and kinematic links. Is it necessary to do them all at the same time? If it is not necessary to do them at the same time, is there a sequence in which they should preferably be done? Does one or the other make a bigger impact?
why?

The complication here is the built in flex of the stock rubber bushes




the RS used stiffer rubber bushes on arm #4 (caster) and the trailing arm#5 (A-arm). The leading leg of #5 has a mono-ball stock. This limits KT change caused by rotation around the line which all of the arms intersect, #4 being only a little stiffer than stock causes only a small reduction in KT change. The bulk of KT change is from #5, the stiffer. RS bush there causes a lot of reduction in KT change.

The RSR uses mono-***** on all the arms, so while there is still toe channe due to suspension travel, KT change is eliminated. On theses the amount of KT change is dependent on caster adjustment, more caster = more KT and vice versa. on the Motorsports KT gauge 3.5 is a good place to be, as you go down from there the rear of the car gets twitchier and twitchier, at some point it becomes scary.

I'm unsure of the effect of changing #3 & $ to mono-ball piece meal.

here's what I have run
RS #4 & 6 stock everywhere else - great street setup

RS #4 & 6 & mono-ball #2 w/ locks - great track setup, on the street it makes bump response more immediate/jerky and noticeable, some will not like this.

RSR #5 & Rennline mono-ball#3, 4 &2 - this is a great track setup, the main reason I went to this was that the stock eccentrics would walk in heavy track usage, the car would become undriveable after an hour or so. I don't notice the jerky bump response that was observed w/ the RS setup. Don't know if this was eliminated or if I just don't notice it any more, I believe the former but am non sure.
Old 06-25-2017, 06:49 PM
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Silver Surfer
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Default Rear Links Question

Bill, thanks for the excellent tutorial. I believe that I have purchased all of the rear suspension parts that are unique to the RS. So if I understand you correctly, you are saying that with the RS parts installed, I don't need the ERP adjustable toe, camber and kinematic links for street use?
Old 06-25-2017, 07:26 PM
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Bill Verburg
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Originally Posted by Silver Surfer
Bill, thanks for the excellent tutorial. I believe that I have purchased all of the rear suspension parts that are unique to the RS. So if I understand you correctly, you are saying that with the RS parts installed, I don't need the ERP adjustable toe, camber and kinematic links for street use?
Correct, For street and some track you will be very happy w/ RS KT arm(#4 + RS A-arm(#5 in the first pic, #1 & 5 in the second. The only other RS specific parts in back are the subframe mounts, which you can forgo w/o much loss unless the car is really low in which case use solids and the sway bar which I highly recommend paired w/ the RS front sway & associated RS bushes for the sways



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