AC recharged, good for a week....not an expert on this....
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
AC recharged, good for a week....not an expert on this....
Not an expert with AC..........Recharged my AC and Porsche dealer reported that there were no leaks as they ran the dye in the system......now blowing semi-cool air, but not cold as after the recharge.........would evaporator be best place to start checking?
#2
They may have put dye in the system but did they check everywhere? The evap is hard to get to (and check for leaks). If they didn't check every single possible source for leaks then they might not have seen a potential leak.
#3
Rennlist Member
I would start with the evaporator, this is known weak spot in the 993 A/C system. If you have dye in the system, you should check for this at the evaporator drain opening under the car, between the front wheels. See the flat rubber hose opening in the pic.
If your A/C technician have a electronic sniffer, they could start with the evap, reachable through the resirc flap opening under the dash.
Cheers,
Tore
If your A/C technician have a electronic sniffer, they could start with the evap, reachable through the resirc flap opening under the dash.
Cheers,
Tore
#4
Dye tracer for leaks is always limited to visibility; what you can see vs. what you can't. Best method is an electronic leak detector.
Visually (dye and black light, soap and water or residual oil), you can look at:
Compressor hose fittings, manifold, comp case seals, service ports,
rear bulkhead connections,
front condenser hose fittings and base of condenser (corrosion),
drier fittings,
TEV (expansion valve fittings).
In some case you may need to remove a panel.
Electronic leak detector (corona-suppression, heated-diode or infrared, ultrasonic type has limitations), used when the system is charged and running:
sniff every component joint,
for evaporator you sniff the vents and condensation drain tube.
Visually (dye and black light, soap and water or residual oil), you can look at:
Compressor hose fittings, manifold, comp case seals, service ports,
rear bulkhead connections,
front condenser hose fittings and base of condenser (corrosion),
drier fittings,
TEV (expansion valve fittings).
In some case you may need to remove a panel.
Electronic leak detector (corona-suppression, heated-diode or infrared, ultrasonic type has limitations), used when the system is charged and running:
sniff every component joint,
for evaporator you sniff the vents and condensation drain tube.
#5
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Check the air duct valves in your footwells. If they don't close fully warm are is may be mixing with the cool before it gets out of the dash. If you run the OBDC codes a bad one usually shows up. Also, verify the vacuum actuated one in the engine compartment if you have a Verioram engine. If you use a thermometer you can check the temp drop on each side of the system to see if it is efficiency or a hot air leak.
#6
Race Car
Originally Posted by pp000830
Check the air duct valves in your footwells. If they don't close fully warm are is may be mixing with the cool before it gets out of the dash. If you run the OBDC codes a bad one usually shows up. Also, verify the vacuum actuated one in the engine compartment if you have a Verioram engine. If you use a thermometer you can check the temp drop on each side of the system to see if it is efficiency or a hot air leak.