Step-by-step PSS10 Installation
#61
Thanks for the toque specs. No contact between the lower ring and the perch. Front and rear hats arrived today so hopefully I will be able to make some progress tomorrow.
#62
Rennlist Member
The experience of the OP, along with this thread, will help myself, along with countless others. So don't sell yourself short. :-)
I ordered these a while ago, to secure my perches. They never moved, so I was in no hurry to pull EVERYTHING apart, to do it. I believe they are what is needed. Verify with Bilstein, before you order. Aloha
Richard
Attachment 1118323
I ordered these a while ago, to secure my perches. They never moved, so I was in no hurry to pull EVERYTHING apart, to do it. I believe they are what is needed. Verify with Bilstein, before you order. Aloha
Richard
Attachment 1118323
Here is an interesting thread on not having the lock ring. personally I'd have to be pretty bored to dissamble mine to add them but if I had them new on the bench I for sure would.
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ooks-like.html
#63
Progress today: All new top hats installed and torqued. Fronts are in, rears to go in a few days. Did the install by myself, not a problem.
I decided to go with the height adjustment recommended in the instruction manual provided. I remember the rear setting was 210mm, and the front setting was somewhere in the middle of the range. After speaking with my chosen alignment shop about this issue I felt much better. Getting the rear perch/bottom of the drop link, as well as the bottom mounting point of the shock is key...BEFORE you put the assembly in place. Whether you plan to track the car or not he also strongly recommends a bottom lock ring as pictured before. If for nothing else it will prevent possible damage if the car is driven hard in the future.
As for the proper "angle" of the perch. Based upon professional alignment shop recommendation I left mine relatively loose with the thought that once the entire assembly is installed I can fine tune the approximate angle, tighten the bottom ring and the ring above...then the rest of the assembly...and then the alignment shop will make any final adjustments during corner balance and alignment.
As for torque of the 14mm top hat nuts, especially in the rear, "guttentite" is my plan based on how the front ones "feel". As we all know clearance in the back is limited.
I decided to go with the height adjustment recommended in the instruction manual provided. I remember the rear setting was 210mm, and the front setting was somewhere in the middle of the range. After speaking with my chosen alignment shop about this issue I felt much better. Getting the rear perch/bottom of the drop link, as well as the bottom mounting point of the shock is key...BEFORE you put the assembly in place. Whether you plan to track the car or not he also strongly recommends a bottom lock ring as pictured before. If for nothing else it will prevent possible damage if the car is driven hard in the future.
As for the proper "angle" of the perch. Based upon professional alignment shop recommendation I left mine relatively loose with the thought that once the entire assembly is installed I can fine tune the approximate angle, tighten the bottom ring and the ring above...then the rest of the assembly...and then the alignment shop will make any final adjustments during corner balance and alignment.
As for torque of the 14mm top hat nuts, especially in the rear, "guttentite" is my plan based on how the front ones "feel". As we all know clearance in the back is limited.
#64
Two other points.
There is a rubber gasket between the top hat and the body up front that will have to be purchased separately from the top hat if you need one. I was able to salvage mine with a bit of care, and used contact cement to secure it in place on the new top hat.
The other tip about using a "bent nosed pic" to push out the center round tab on the plastic part is also good stuff.
There is a rubber gasket between the top hat and the body up front that will have to be purchased separately from the top hat if you need one. I was able to salvage mine with a bit of care, and used contact cement to secure it in place on the new top hat.
The other tip about using a "bent nosed pic" to push out the center round tab on the plastic part is also good stuff.
#65
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Join Date: Nov 2010
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[QUOTE=F18drvr;
As for the proper "angle" of the perch. Based upon professional alignment shop recommendation I left mine relatively loose with the thought that once the entire assembly is installed I can fine tune the approximate angle, tighten the bottom ring and the ring above...then the rest of the assembly...and then the alignment shop will make any final adjustments during corner balance and alignment..[/QUOTE]
The perch just needs to sit, centered, facing directly inward, towards engine. It shouldn't need to have any "angle" other than 90° (Inward) off the longitude of car.
As for the proper "angle" of the perch. Based upon professional alignment shop recommendation I left mine relatively loose with the thought that once the entire assembly is installed I can fine tune the approximate angle, tighten the bottom ring and the ring above...then the rest of the assembly...and then the alignment shop will make any final adjustments during corner balance and alignment..[/QUOTE]
The perch just needs to sit, centered, facing directly inward, towards engine. It shouldn't need to have any "angle" other than 90° (Inward) off the longitude of car.
#66
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Progress today: All new top hats installed and torqued. Fronts are in, rears to go in a few days. Did the install by myself, not a problem.
Whether you plan to track the car or not he also strongly recommends a bottom lock ring as pictured before. If for nothing else it will prevent possible damage if the car is driven hard in the future.
As for the proper "angle" of the perch. Based upon professional alignment shop recommendation I left mine relatively loose with the thought that once the entire assembly is installed I can fine tune the approximate angle, tighten the bottom ring and the ring above...then the rest of the assembly...and then the alignment shop will make any final adjustments during corner balance and alignment.
As for torque of the 14mm top hat nuts, especially in the rear, "guttentite" is my plan based on how the front ones "feel". As we all know clearance in the back is limited.
Whether you plan to track the car or not he also strongly recommends a bottom lock ring as pictured before. If for nothing else it will prevent possible damage if the car is driven hard in the future.
As for the proper "angle" of the perch. Based upon professional alignment shop recommendation I left mine relatively loose with the thought that once the entire assembly is installed I can fine tune the approximate angle, tighten the bottom ring and the ring above...then the rest of the assembly...and then the alignment shop will make any final adjustments during corner balance and alignment.
As for torque of the 14mm top hat nuts, especially in the rear, "guttentite" is my plan based on how the front ones "feel". As we all know clearance in the back is limited.
Before you put the rears in, can you measure the OD of the lower rings you have (assuming you have a digital caliper)?
I'm 99% certain that the ones I have are the same ones you are using. If so, I may put those on while the car is apart.
Two other points.
There is a rubber gasket between the top hat and the body up front that will have to be purchased separately from the top hat if you need one. I was able to salvage mine with a bit of care, and used contact cement to secure it in place on the new top hat.
The other tip about using a "bent nosed pic" to push out the center round tab on the plastic part is also good stuff.
There is a rubber gasket between the top hat and the body up front that will have to be purchased separately from the top hat if you need one. I was able to salvage mine with a bit of care, and used contact cement to secure it in place on the new top hat.
The other tip about using a "bent nosed pic" to push out the center round tab on the plastic part is also good stuff.
#67
Three Wheelin'
Two other points.
There is a rubber gasket between the top hat and the body up front that will have to be purchased separately from the top hat if you need one. I was able to salvage mine with a bit of care, and used contact cement to secure it in place on the new top hat.
The other tip about using a "bent nosed pic" to push out the center round tab on the plastic part is also good stuff.
There is a rubber gasket between the top hat and the body up front that will have to be purchased separately from the top hat if you need one. I was able to salvage mine with a bit of care, and used contact cement to secure it in place on the new top hat.
The other tip about using a "bent nosed pic" to push out the center round tab on the plastic part is also good stuff.
I was PM'ing with the_bg and he pointed out that this looked like a part you'd want to order before doing the front suspension so I got a couple. They aren't expensive, so probably a good idea for anyone doing this work.
#68
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Thinking more about the additional collar.
Since I seem to have the correct collars sitting here unused, and I've yet to finish installing the suspension, I've changed course and will go ahead with the belt-and-suspenders approach and install the extra collars.
Notice that they either "barely" or "perfectly" fit depending on your world view. Regardless, I see no real downside to adding them at this point.
Since I seem to have the correct collars sitting here unused, and I've yet to finish installing the suspension, I've changed course and will go ahead with the belt-and-suspenders approach and install the extra collars.
Notice that they either "barely" or "perfectly" fit depending on your world view. Regardless, I see no real downside to adding them at this point.
#70
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
#72
Drifting
Sorry, but I think this is overkill...here is why:
The bottom perch threads/screws upwards, the 3rd locking collar screws downward. These two pieces tighten and lock against each other...What's the point of putting an additional ring from the bottom that won't tighten against the perch since it's threaded in the same direction?
LMK what I'm missing!!!
The bottom perch threads/screws upwards, the 3rd locking collar screws downward. These two pieces tighten and lock against each other...What's the point of putting an additional ring from the bottom that won't tighten against the perch since it's threaded in the same direction?
LMK what I'm missing!!!
#73
Three Wheelin'
What if a twisting force is applied to the drop link perch that acts to loosen just that piece? The collar above won't be able to resist, but a lower collar could.
#74
Drifting
I may be wrong, but I logically cannot see how this can possibly come undone when the 3rd ring and the bottom perch are locked against each other.
#75
Three Wheelin'
Given the experiences recounted here: https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ooks-like.html
I think its worth adding the lower lock ring. I don't see any downside to doing so and it seems like it could avoid some heartbreak.
I think its worth adding the lower lock ring. I don't see any downside to doing so and it seems like it could avoid some heartbreak.