Immobiliser/alarm, etc.
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Immobiliser/alarm, etc.
I have been having issues with my immobilizer/remotes/alarm etc., for a while now, and finally was forced to repair the system as the car would periodically not start, remotes would not operate door locks, alarm would arm itself, alarm would go off if key was used to open doors, etc., etc., etc.
I have noticed that when removing the ignition key, sometimes, the system would still think that the key was in ignition.
Replaced the ignition key assembly and problems have all gone away.
For now.
Next step will be to have immobilizer disabled. Hope that is not necessary.
Phil
I have noticed that when removing the ignition key, sometimes, the system would still think that the key was in ignition.
Replaced the ignition key assembly and problems have all gone away.
For now.
Next step will be to have immobilizer disabled. Hope that is not necessary.
Phil
#2
Rennlist Member
Who can disable the immobilizer? I hear stories like this and just dread the day. What a PITA! Glad you got it resolved Phil!
Last edited by Gbos1; 10-26-2016 at 03:11 PM.
#4
Burning Brakes
I disabled my immobilizer two years ago and have been thankful ever since. To disable the immobilizer requires two things. First, the immobilizer has to be disabled in the ECU. There are several companies in the country that can do this. Steve Weiner has a firm on the west cost that disables immobilizers for his customers. On the East coast, Ive used ECU Doctors located in Ft. Lauderdale, Florida. The cost to disable the immobilizer is about $500 with ECU Doctors.
With the ECU functionality disabled, you will be able to start your car without double clicking your key fob. However, you will get an idiot light appearing in your clock that indicates that the system is dysfunctional. To fix this item (and to eliminate the idiot light), you simply have to replace the relay that controls your starter with a jumper plug. The jumper cost me about $30.
Now I have a car that is a joy to start! BTW, the key fob is still used to lock/unlock the car which i s nice.
With the ECU functionality disabled, you will be able to start your car without double clicking your key fob. However, you will get an idiot light appearing in your clock that indicates that the system is dysfunctional. To fix this item (and to eliminate the idiot light), you simply have to replace the relay that controls your starter with a jumper plug. The jumper cost me about $30.
Now I have a car that is a joy to start! BTW, the key fob is still used to lock/unlock the car which i s nice.
#5
I have been having issues with my immobilizer/remotes/alarm etc., for a while now, and finally was forced to repair the system as the car would periodically not start, remotes would not operate door locks, alarm would arm itself, alarm would go off if key was used to open doors, etc., etc., etc.
I have noticed that when removing the ignition key, sometimes, the system would still think that the key was in ignition.
Replaced the ignition key assembly and problems have all gone away.
For now.
Next step will be to have immobilizer disabled. Hope that is not necessary.
Phil
I have noticed that when removing the ignition key, sometimes, the system would still think that the key was in ignition.
Replaced the ignition key assembly and problems have all gone away.
For now.
Next step will be to have immobilizer disabled. Hope that is not necessary.
Phil
problems and assume it's the ECU and have it "rebuilt" or have the function removed from the
DME ECM, a waste of money for most.
#6
...And if one does not know who to trust to correctly diagnose, where else does one turn?