pp000830

I have a speed yellow 1996 Carrera. I applied the cleaner wax with a sponge wheel using a squirt bottle to keep things wet. I then buffed each section dry with a microfiber cloth by hand The car has never looked this good. Where the paint was lightly oxidized a minor yellow color transferred to the buffing cloth.

Parts of the car are original finish some parts are resprayed. Being a solid color the car has singe stage paint from the factory and all touch-up work was done with single stage as well.

I have always used one of the carbuna waxes to shine up my car with reasonable results. I, in the past , avoided synthetic waxes under the impression that if my car ever needs painting it may interfere with paint adhesion.

Recently we purchased a VW Beetle that was waxed with a synthetic wax by the dealer. Not only is it very shiny but the wax is very slippery to the touch and road dust seems to not stick to the car. This prompted me to try the 3M product resulting in outstanding result. I chose 3M because they have extensive experience engineering automotive and marine paint and finishing products.

The only application guidance I can give is to very lightey use the foam wheel at the lowest speed, keep things wet with a squirt bottle of water and when using it on clear plastic fender guards orient it so the wheel rotates from the guard outward towards the painted surface to avoid leaving a visible line on the transition off the edge of the guard.

Hope some find this review useful.
Andy

fossilfuel

Hi Andy,

What kind of polisher are you using?

TIA.

-mark

pp000830

A generic electric buffer from Harbor Freight with a foam wheel attached. It is rather heavy so one need to be careful to go very lightly on the car when applying the wax.

Something like this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/7-in-10...her-62297.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/9-inch-...pad-91236.html

fossilfuel

Thanks Andy!

il pirata

It's the silicon content in a product that can cause a problem, doesn't matter if it's carnauba or synthetic or any other car detailing product. If your getting paint work done a good paint shop will have cleaned the car of any silicon etc before getting into the paint work. A good paint shop will not have any detailing products with silicon in them.

il pirata

You have a single stage paint. Personally I would never get rid of any oxidation using wax, your going to get scratches in the paint over time. The car should be washed first, then clayed, if you have some imperfections to remove use polish, then wax. There is no need to use an orbital for waxing if the car was cleaned properly, it goes on very fast and smooth.

pp000830

Thank you for the insights, I only used the foam wheel as the instructions with the product indicated it as an option. I assume the clay acts like a fine abrasive that cuts through oxidation.

_snowbird_

A cleaner wax tries to be an all-in-one solution, and it will certainly look better than it did prior to using it.

To achieve actual paint correction, it's necessary to do a multi-stage polish with the proper equipment (DA polisher) and seal the surface after with a good wax or sealant once polished.

Brig993

+1 to the above....AmmoNYC youtube channel has some great how to videos on waxing, polishing, products and general detailing info. The founder Larry is also a Porsche guy (964) and on RL.

AZ Targa

AmmoNYC is awesome! Larry puts on some really good video's and they are very educational to the whole detailing process! He discusses different tools, techniques, and products; everything from the interior to the engine bay in a methodical way.