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Heater control box....repair ?

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Old 05-03-2016, 08:33 PM
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Meatball964
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Default Heater control box....repair ?

Backed over an object in the driveway (RS+5 ride height)...ugh.
As you can see in the pic it's a fairly clean break. Has anyone used JB weld or welded using this stuff (www.alumirod) ?
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Old 05-03-2016, 09:34 PM
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AOW162435
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JB Weld may be worth a try. The cheapest used heater box on EBay at the moment is $150 or best offer....



Andreas
Old 05-04-2016, 12:56 AM
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nine9six
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Can't that be alum MIG/TIG welded for about $50-$75 bux? Nor would I be hesitant to clean up and JB weld, prior to giving up $150...

EDIT:
Definitely a weld repair attempt, prior to trying something like JB Weld. Sucess of JB Weld has alot to do with the prep of the material, prior to applying the bonding epoxy.

I have never found JB Weld epoxy to be "garbage". While its not always the best solution; depending on application. I have ground, filed, drilled and tapped threads into JB Weld with surprising success, FWIW...

I'm on a fixed income. ☺

Last edited by nine9six; 05-05-2016 at 03:12 PM.
Old 05-04-2016, 09:29 AM
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suban
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Bring it to a respected welding shop and see what they say. I prefer a smaller shop with an older guy who has "seen it all" for the jobs I can't do myself.
Old 05-04-2016, 09:34 AM
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pp000830
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A great repair can be had on ebay!
Old 05-04-2016, 04:52 PM
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Meatball964
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I'll have a guy I know who is pretty handy w/welding have a look before I start slapping on the JB weld/alumirod (which would have to come off 1st & more work for him).
The cheapest I saw on eBay was $200 (used). If this pc got mangled or bent I wouldn't hesitate, but jeez shouldn't be too hard to fuse I would think.
Old 05-04-2016, 07:30 PM
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Belzona Supermetal - excellent material and being used to make engine block repairs. Check them online. Not cheap though since you have to buy it by the pound. JB Weld is garbage!
Old 05-04-2016, 08:18 PM
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Everyone loves to talk about running without an engine tray, but this is one of the downsides.

I had the same things happen years ago and found a replacement from someone parting out a car here on RL.
Old 05-05-2016, 10:02 AM
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Meatball964
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Holytin, sent you a PM
Old 05-05-2016, 02:57 PM
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nine9six
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Originally Posted by goofballdeluxe
Everyone loves to talk about running without an engine tray, but this is one of the downsides.

I had the same things happen years ago and found a replacement from someone parting out a car here on RL.
Goof,
This seems to have been a very isolated incident, and do you really think the plastic cover would have prevented the damage?

This, and the knowledge that the 993 engine is the highest state of tune of the aircooled 911 and as such, it runs hotter than its predecessors. Would you really subject the engine to more heat than absolutely necessary, on the if-come of such fluke damage occuring?

Last edited by nine9six; 05-05-2016 at 03:15 PM.
Old 05-05-2016, 03:31 PM
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goofballdeluxe
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Originally Posted by nine9six
Goof,
This seems to have been a very isolated incident, and do you really think the plastic cover would have prevented the damage?

This, and the knowledge that the 993 engine is the highest state of tune of the aircooled 911 and as such, it runs hotter than its predecessors. Would you really subject the engine to more heat than absolutely necessary, on the if-come of such fluke damage occuring?
Just pointing it out. It happened to the OP, and myself, and others. Not really a fluke. Or an isolated incident. In any event, it's useful info to consider. And yes, removing the engine tray allows the heater boxes to droop more so than if the tray is on. That makes the more vulnerable to damage, as the OP found out.

Now, the debate about whether the engine runs much hotter is just that: a debate. There's never been any proof that running with the engine tray ON keeps the engine significantly hotter. Search the archives for the never ending debate, and no definitive answer.

That said, I run without my engine tray. But the engine tray does provide some protection to the engine and other assorted bits being damaged from road debris, driveways and other things. As the OP, myself, and others have found out the hard way LOL

Just my 2 cents
Old 05-05-2016, 03:48 PM
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techman1
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A good reminder to check your heater boxes. Keep in mind, there is no support holding them up, other than the rubber duct.
If your boxes seem to hang low, loosen all the clamps, lift up as high as possible, then tighten all clamps.

Last oil change I had to re-do, as it was obvious "one hung low" !!!!
Old 05-05-2016, 04:15 PM
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When changing the oil filter I disconnect the heater box duct. If not reinstalled properly the box can hang low or slip out of the rubber duct. I suspect this sets the stage for damage at an oil change followed up by a speed bump or a driveway apron hit that damages the part.
Old 05-05-2016, 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by techman1
A good reminder to check your heater boxes. Keep in mind, there is no support holding them up, other than the rubber duct.
If your boxes seem to hang low, loosen all the clamps, lift up as high as possible, then tighten all clamps.

Last oil change I had to re-do, as it was obvious "one hung low" !!!!
This could be to allow the box to take a hit without shattering if it was hard mounted.

engine runs much hotter
Certainly not my words, nor do I have a dog in that debate; but yes, I do understand your point.

I probably run my ride height a little higher, as I have a sloped driveway; but you couldn't tell from the bottom side of my splitters.



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