Heater control box....repair ?
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Heater control box....repair ?
Backed over an object in the driveway (RS+5 ride height)...ugh.
As you can see in the pic it's a fairly clean break. Has anyone used JB weld or welded using this stuff (www.alumirod) ?
As you can see in the pic it's a fairly clean break. Has anyone used JB weld or welded using this stuff (www.alumirod) ?
#3
Can't that be alum MIG/TIG welded for about $50-$75 bux? Nor would I be hesitant to clean up and JB weld, prior to giving up $150...
EDIT:
Definitely a weld repair attempt, prior to trying something like JB Weld. Sucess of JB Weld has alot to do with the prep of the material, prior to applying the bonding epoxy.
I have never found JB Weld epoxy to be "garbage". While its not always the best solution; depending on application. I have ground, filed, drilled and tapped threads into JB Weld with surprising success, FWIW...
I'm on a fixed income. ☺
EDIT:
Definitely a weld repair attempt, prior to trying something like JB Weld. Sucess of JB Weld has alot to do with the prep of the material, prior to applying the bonding epoxy.
I have never found JB Weld epoxy to be "garbage". While its not always the best solution; depending on application. I have ground, filed, drilled and tapped threads into JB Weld with surprising success, FWIW...
I'm on a fixed income. ☺
Last edited by nine9six; 05-05-2016 at 03:12 PM.
#5
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
A great repair can be had on ebay!
#6
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I'll have a guy I know who is pretty handy w/welding have a look before I start slapping on the JB weld/alumirod (which would have to come off 1st & more work for him).
The cheapest I saw on eBay was $200 (used). If this pc got mangled or bent I wouldn't hesitate, but jeez shouldn't be too hard to fuse I would think.
The cheapest I saw on eBay was $200 (used). If this pc got mangled or bent I wouldn't hesitate, but jeez shouldn't be too hard to fuse I would think.
#7
Pro
Belzona Supermetal - excellent material and being used to make engine block repairs. Check them online. Not cheap though since you have to buy it by the pound. JB Weld is garbage!
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#8
Everyone loves to talk about running without an engine tray, but this is one of the downsides.
I had the same things happen years ago and found a replacement from someone parting out a car here on RL.
I had the same things happen years ago and found a replacement from someone parting out a car here on RL.
#10
This seems to have been a very isolated incident, and do you really think the plastic cover would have prevented the damage?
This, and the knowledge that the 993 engine is the highest state of tune of the aircooled 911 and as such, it runs hotter than its predecessors. Would you really subject the engine to more heat than absolutely necessary, on the if-come of such fluke damage occuring?
Last edited by nine9six; 05-05-2016 at 03:15 PM.
#11
Goof,
This seems to have been a very isolated incident, and do you really think the plastic cover would have prevented the damage?
This, and the knowledge that the 993 engine is the highest state of tune of the aircooled 911 and as such, it runs hotter than its predecessors. Would you really subject the engine to more heat than absolutely necessary, on the if-come of such fluke damage occuring?
This seems to have been a very isolated incident, and do you really think the plastic cover would have prevented the damage?
This, and the knowledge that the 993 engine is the highest state of tune of the aircooled 911 and as such, it runs hotter than its predecessors. Would you really subject the engine to more heat than absolutely necessary, on the if-come of such fluke damage occuring?
Now, the debate about whether the engine runs much hotter is just that: a debate. There's never been any proof that running with the engine tray ON keeps the engine significantly hotter. Search the archives for the never ending debate, and no definitive answer.
That said, I run without my engine tray. But the engine tray does provide some protection to the engine and other assorted bits being damaged from road debris, driveways and other things. As the OP, myself, and others have found out the hard way LOL
Just my 2 cents
#12
Burning Brakes
A good reminder to check your heater boxes. Keep in mind, there is no support holding them up, other than the rubber duct.
If your boxes seem to hang low, loosen all the clamps, lift up as high as possible, then tighten all clamps.
Last oil change I had to re-do, as it was obvious "one hung low" !!!!
If your boxes seem to hang low, loosen all the clamps, lift up as high as possible, then tighten all clamps.
Last oil change I had to re-do, as it was obvious "one hung low" !!!!
#13
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
When changing the oil filter I disconnect the heater box duct. If not reinstalled properly the box can hang low or slip out of the rubber duct. I suspect this sets the stage for damage at an oil change followed up by a speed bump or a driveway apron hit that damages the part.
#14
A good reminder to check your heater boxes. Keep in mind, there is no support holding them up, other than the rubber duct.
If your boxes seem to hang low, loosen all the clamps, lift up as high as possible, then tighten all clamps.
Last oil change I had to re-do, as it was obvious "one hung low" !!!!
If your boxes seem to hang low, loosen all the clamps, lift up as high as possible, then tighten all clamps.
Last oil change I had to re-do, as it was obvious "one hung low" !!!!
engine runs much hotter
I probably run my ride height a little higher, as I have a sloped driveway; but you couldn't tell from the bottom side of my splitters.