bcameron59

A bit more info on spark testing - try disconnecting the short wire from the center of the distributor - ie the one at the top left of pic below. The other end of this wire stays connected to the coil pack.

Put a paperclip, small screwdriver or other long, thin metal object into the boot of the disconnected wire, so that it comtacts the clip inside the wire.

Place the other end of the paperclip or other long thin metal object very near - but not touching- the electrode on the top of the distributor, ie the spot you just pulled the wire off of.

Don't touch the metal or get close to where the spark expected. Importamt safety tip.

Crank motor and watch for spark. You will need a helper to do both, I imagine. Btw if you don't get a spark off the first distributor, try the same thing on the other one - it is possible though unlikely that just one coil died. However if both coils are dead you won't get spark from either one,

Good luck, hope you get it sorted soon.

TJ993

got spark - had a tickle - not sure what I did - got close to engine pan / tray and zap - Little Tickle

And the DME - put a Finger on top - it is Clicking.

OK Had to re-start after removing then re-installing ground wire / Negative from battery - so I guess that passed the test - or ZCar failed in this instance...

installeed negative cable to battery Terminal with Key in Phase 2 Ignition - prestart position - then removed key - Locked and Unlocked . Inoitiated Immobilizer then attempted to start

So No go yet Hmmm Long day

bcameron59

If you get spark, my next suspicion would be the fuel pump. You could try checking / cleaning / reconnecting the electrical leads to the pump, but that SOB is hidden way under the car. See pic below.

You do NOT, I repeat DO NOT want to attempt this using the emergency jack in the frunk - it is absolutely not safe or stable enough to jack up the car and crawl underneath it. You need a proper lift or at least jack stands in place before you attempt to get underneath there.

TJ993

i gather the Tranny Tray must come off ?
Looks closer to feet placement when sittin in the car.

bcameron59

It's under the front passenger side, not too far behind the right control arm. The front tray has to come off, not the rear tranny or engine tray.

You were asking about indy shops near hebron, try googling pcarshops.com to find some - see pic below. No idea which one(s) would be your best bet though, good luck again!

bcameron59

Here's the right way to do it - NOT!

geolab

hey Tom, just woke up in Paris. Hope you are doing ok.

As said before, no fuel.
Two more things I would try to do before a flatbed.
As the fuel pump is a radial membrane, we could try to revive it with "chest compressions"
So the steps I would do:
open car, and rear hood
keys in pocket
remove airbox cover with the two clips
tap the fuel filter with a tool, any tool, several times
Now you see the fuel line from filter going to engine injectors.
it has a rubber part from filter to engine
take it with both hands, and in a trying to bend it movement, bend it a few times.
with the injectors closed on one side, hopefully fuel will return a little bit through the fuel filter out
Now close rear hood, lock car and reopen
put keys in contact to position 2, with dash lights on, keep it this way
open gas cap trap
unscrew gas cap and rescrew, maybe your return valve is not working and there is vacuum in tank
shut the lid
open front hood
remove the upper carpet clips in hood and ply it in half to the front just exposing tank.
place one hand on the middle of the tank black plastic, and try to SLIGHTLY tap the tank to make it vibrate. Try to pump the plastic as well, even if there is a return valve next to the fuel filler.
the pump is connected to the tank by a 5 inch thick rubber hose
maybe you will have a miracle, and hear the pump starting to tick again.
If you hear the ticking go to the ignition key and turn it to start the car and don't shut the dash before, just start
usually, a fuel pump dies by stopping and re-working, rarely I have had a fuel pump just drop dead
good luck man

AOW162435

If the fuel pump was not as inaccessible as it is, I'd highly recommend rapping against it with a small hammer/wrench/etc. But it's tucked away behind an access panel under the fuel tank.

Wish I were closer to lend a hand.



Andreas

TJ993

Priceless
OK Got some starter juice - she ran But will not stay running.

Remember I pulled Negative Battery terminal >?

Now car is asking for a Radio Code

Question>?

But I doubt that matters - >? DOES I Need Code >?????

What I need that old familiar sound of the flat 6
Goin to verify gettin fuel by removing fuel filter


Any Pics of fuel pump and wiring ?
can anyone Upload or do I have them?

Did not mention I drove thru Rain and then a STORM where I barely could see thru the windshield - I am wondering if everything is wet and needs drying or ?

I want to TEST those connections.
Thanks for the Pic!! LMAO
Thank You !!

Rennlist - What a Great Place!!
Thanks Guys!!
Tom

TJ993

Thank You for the Tip - That might be quite helpful!!!!

need pics if u have some plls attach - every thing helps!!
Tom

centerpunch

He's in Hebron KY, not Hebron OH.

OverBoosted28

Start with the Schrader valve on the fuel rail. If no fuel pressure there, then move to filter, not there, then pump issue. Try Geo's approach! May just be something stuck that needs to be dislodged.

bcameron59

Thread title says Cincinnati so I assumed OH, if KY was stated in thread my apologies, I missed that.

However Tom could put his own search parameters in the link provided which is what I was really suggesting, the pic supplied was merely illustrative.

bcameron59

+1 on Andreas & George's suggestions to tap the pump, push / pull pressure along the line etc. This might be enough to dislodge a small foreign object or shift the motor armature to restore conact to the brushes. Again, dont forget to verify / clean up the electrical connections on pump.

See link for plenty of info and pics:
https://rennlist.com/how-tos/a/porsc...el-pump-377042

Here's an example (pump shown partially removed, with mounting bolts already taken off):

bcameron59

As noted earler in the thread, the pressure measurement connector (looks like a bike schraeder, not sure if exactly the same or not) is a once-only item, so may not want to measure there first unless you have spare brass cap on standby. This from service manual: