So it Begins....DIY Top End Build
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
So it Begins....DIY Top End Build
So, my leakdown and compression numbers for cylinder 4 weren't so hot See here https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...n-results.html
So what was going to be an engine out reseal over the winter has turned into an engine out top end rebuild. Since the engine is coming out regardless I am going to fix it correctly the first time especially since it sees 4 track weekends a year. Stay tuned for pics. The fun starts on January 22nd at which time the heads will be sent to Steve at Rennsport.
Here is a list of parts I've compiled, if anyone has any suggestions to add or delete let me know!
FYI, Car is a 1995 C2. Distributor Belt, Caps, Rotors, and wires were all done recently by the PO
So what was going to be an engine out reseal over the winter has turned into an engine out top end rebuild. Since the engine is coming out regardless I am going to fix it correctly the first time especially since it sees 4 track weekends a year. Stay tuned for pics. The fun starts on January 22nd at which time the heads will be sent to Steve at Rennsport.
Here is a list of parts I've compiled, if anyone has any suggestions to add or delete let me know!
FYI, Car is a 1995 C2. Distributor Belt, Caps, Rotors, and wires were all done recently by the PO
#4
Pro
I would consider to split the case to do the entire engine. Regardless mileage our engines are 18 years old at best, and seals/gaskets could fail and start leaking. That's what we did and it certainly makes me feel much better to know the entire engine has been taking care off. Imagine the top end being done and you discover engine leaks shortly after...
Just saying. Good luck with the rebuild
Just saying. Good luck with the rebuild
#6
Rennlist Member
I would consider to split the case to do the entire engine. Regardless mileage our engines are 18 years old at best, and seals/gaskets could fail and start leaking. That's what we did and it certainly makes me feel much better to know the entire engine has been taking care off. Imagine the top end being done and you discover engine leaks shortly after...
Just saying. Good luck with the rebuild
Just saying. Good luck with the rebuild
If you're totally paranoid, replace the rod bolts as you'll be into it that far. Steve will steer you correctly on those.
Did I miss anything re: resurfacing the rockers and cams?
#7
Race Director
Figuring you'll replace the cylinder base and through bolt o-rings, etc., what, exactly, leaks after you've stripped one of these down to do a top end? Nothing. This isn't a Mg case that warps. Everything else, save the case half sealing is accessible. And I've seen more engines screwed up by amateur case reseals, than leaving them alone.
If you're totally paranoid, replace the rod bolts as you'll be into it that far. Steve will steer you correctly on those.
Did I miss anything re: resurfacing the rockers and cams?
If you're totally paranoid, replace the rod bolts as you'll be into it that far. Steve will steer you correctly on those.
Did I miss anything re: resurfacing the rockers and cams?
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#8
Rennlist Member
#9
Pro
Figuring you'll replace the cylinder base and through bolt o-rings, etc., what, exactly, leaks after you've stripped one of these down to do a top end? Nothing. This isn't a Mg case that warps. Everything else, save the case half sealing is accessible. And I've seen more engines screwed up by amateur case reseals, than leaving them alone.
If you're totally paranoid, replace the rod bolts as you'll be into it that far. Steve will steer you correctly on those.
Did I miss anything re: resurfacing the rockers and cams?
If you're totally paranoid, replace the rod bolts as you'll be into it that far. Steve will steer you correctly on those.
Did I miss anything re: resurfacing the rockers and cams?
Engine Gasket Set 930 100 901 04
Engine gasket Set 993 100 902 00
Bearing Set 996 101 137 80
Bearing Set 996 101 435 70
Main Bearing Set 964 101 901 00
Piston Ring Set 993 103 92 06
Rod bearing Set 993 103 147 15
Timing Chain 993 105 529 00
Oil Return Tube 901 107 351 01
TOTAL $1,438.00
That's the amount in parts you will be saving NOT splitting the case. Really?
So, again, why would one not want to split the engine case? Cheap insurance and the engine is basically new. Can't be the money...
Last edited by Holytin; 01-04-2016 at 05:49 PM.
#10
[QUOTE=.....
So, again, why would one not want to split the engine case? Cheap insurance and the engine is basically new. Can't be the money...[/QUOTE]
It probably isn't the money, but rather the expertise. Top end is easy. Hardest part is engine re-timing (which is actually pretty easy). Heads are usually sent out to the shop to be redone. Once done, you just slap it all back together.
Now for the bottom end, you have bearing measurements, rod bolts, and case sealing to deal with.
So, again, why would one not want to split the engine case? Cheap insurance and the engine is basically new. Can't be the money...[/QUOTE]
It probably isn't the money, but rather the expertise. Top end is easy. Hardest part is engine re-timing (which is actually pretty easy). Heads are usually sent out to the shop to be redone. Once done, you just slap it all back together.
Now for the bottom end, you have bearing measurements, rod bolts, and case sealing to deal with.
#11
Pro
It probably isn't the money, but rather the expertise. Top end is easy. Hardest part is engine re-timing (which is actually pretty easy). Heads are usually sent out to the shop to be redone. Once done, you just slap it all back together.
Now for the bottom end, you have bearing measurements, rod bolts, and case sealing to deal with.
Now for the bottom end, you have bearing measurements, rod bolts, and case sealing to deal with.
Understood. There are reputable shops that just do the bottom end for you; why not use one and do the top end yourself if it is that easy.
Since I don't have the expertise to do either one, top and bottom, I decided to have the bottom end done on my engine for an additional $2,000 or so. Still, cheap insurance in my eyes, and I know what I've got. Would be interested to know how many miles on the engine question.
However, up to the OP how to decide. Just saying...
#12
Racer
Thread Starter
I would consider to split the case to do the entire engine. Regardless mileage our engines are 18 years old at best, and seals/gaskets could fail and start leaking. That's what we did and it certainly makes me feel much better to know the entire engine has been taking care off. Imagine the top end being done and you discover engine leaks shortly after...
Just saying. Good luck with the rebuild
Just saying. Good luck with the rebuild
I don't think I've ever read about an instance where the bottom end has failed on a 993. They seem really stout. If I had the time I would split the case just for fun but there really seems to be no reason other than for paranoia or for the enjoyment of doing so.
Figuring you'll replace the cylinder base and through bolt o-rings, etc., what, exactly, leaks after you've stripped one of these down to do a top end? Nothing. This isn't a Mg case that warps. Everything else, save the case half sealing is accessible. And I've seen more engines screwed up by amateur case reseals, than leaving them alone.
If you're totally paranoid, replace the rod bolts as you'll be into it that far. Steve will steer you correctly on those.
Did I miss anything re: resurfacing the rockers and cams?
If you're totally paranoid, replace the rod bolts as you'll be into it that far. Steve will steer you correctly on those.
Did I miss anything re: resurfacing the rockers and cams?
Steve has been great, before I even gave him a dime we had exchanged over 50 emails
Understood. There are reputable shops that just do the bottom end for you; why not use one and do the top end yourself if it is that easy.
Since I don't have the expertise to do either one, top and bottom, I decided to have the bottom end done on my engine for an additional $2,000 or so. Still, cheap insurance in my eyes, and I know what I've got. Would be interested to know how many miles on the engine question.
However, up to the OP how to decide. Just saying...
Since I don't have the expertise to do either one, top and bottom, I decided to have the bottom end done on my engine for an additional $2,000 or so. Still, cheap insurance in my eyes, and I know what I've got. Would be interested to know how many miles on the engine question.
However, up to the OP how to decide. Just saying...
#15
Racer
Thread Starter