Rear Axle Outboard CV Question
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Rear Axle Outboard CV Question
After a bit of research, I know the outboard rear axle CV joint will not come off the shaft. I read several posts that suggest that the gold flange can be removed from the stub axle. The flange I am referring to is on the left in the photo - up against the teeth. One end of the flange is fitted to the stub axle and the big end of the CV boot attaches to the other end.
Has anyone removed this flange to access the outboard CV joint? I tried unsuccessfully to drive it off and want to be certain it can be removed.
Thanks.
Has anyone removed this flange to access the outboard CV joint? I tried unsuccessfully to drive it off and want to be certain it can be removed.
Thanks.
#2
This should help...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...servicing.html
Cheers!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...servicing.html
8) Move back to the wheel hub and tap the stub axle (the part that the big nut was attached to from step 1) with a plastic hammer or similar. Be careful not to mar the stub. You can place a block of wood or a drift over the stub to help with this. If you doubt you can avoid damaging the stub, go ahead and spin the big nut back on to the point jsut before the stub protrudes from the nut, and whack the nut instead. You can replace the nut much more cheaply than the stub
axle! I had to hammer surprisingly hard to separate these pieces. One the stub axle starts backing out of the hub, watch the other side of the axle carefully to make sure it doesn't hit anything.
axle! I had to hammer surprisingly hard to separate these pieces. One the stub axle starts backing out of the hub, watch the other side of the axle carefully to make sure it doesn't hit anything.
Last edited by nine9six; 08-25-2015 at 09:16 PM.
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks nine9six. I completed that step a few days ago and the axle is now on the bench. My question pertains to the highlighted section below. Has anyone removed the cap/flange from the outboard CV joint?
12) Pop off the large metal cap that covers the outside of the inboard CV. I found it easy to use a small punch and hammer. This exposes all the grease. Using the same method, pop off the other two metal covers, one from the inside of that same outboard CV and one from the outboard CV.
12) Pop off the large metal cap that covers the outside of the inboard CV. I found it easy to use a small punch and hammer. This exposes all the grease. Using the same method, pop off the other two metal covers, one from the inside of that same outboard CV and one from the outboard CV.
#5
If I understand you correctly, you are looking to remove the boot flange, pictured in the photo, yes?
In the DIY link I provided, I believe it shows these parts separated. Did you manage to separate the axle shaft from the outboard CV, or is this your original question?
FWIW,
My hands on experience comes from replacing CV's on an 87 Factory Turbo Look, rear axles which utilized bolted on stub axles, which did not need to be pressed off. I found my outboard boot flanges, oblonged, beat to hell and back, and leaking grease; which is why I was replacing boots and CV. If I remember correctly the boot flange is not sold separatly, and needed to be replaced entirely.
I do not believe the boot flange can remved and replaced.
In the DIY link I provided, I believe it shows these parts separated. Did you manage to separate the axle shaft from the outboard CV, or is this your original question?
FWIW,
My hands on experience comes from replacing CV's on an 87 Factory Turbo Look, rear axles which utilized bolted on stub axles, which did not need to be pressed off. I found my outboard boot flanges, oblonged, beat to hell and back, and leaking grease; which is why I was replacing boots and CV. If I remember correctly the boot flange is not sold separatly, and needed to be replaced entirely.
I do not believe the boot flange can remved and replaced.
Last edited by nine9six; 08-27-2015 at 01:45 AM.
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
Yes, I am trying to remove the boot flange, in the photo.
The DIY on pelican parts (the link you provided) does not show the part separated, but mentions that it can be separated.
I am not trying to separate the outboard CV from the axle. Just the boot flange so I can better access the outboard CV for cleaning and re-greasing.
Thanks for your assistance.
The DIY on pelican parts (the link you provided) does not show the part separated, but mentions that it can be separated.
I am not trying to separate the outboard CV from the axle. Just the boot flange so I can better access the outboard CV for cleaning and re-greasing.
Thanks for your assistance.
#7
Rennlist Member
The outer CV is not designed to be serviced. But where there is a will, there is a way, Geoffrey Ring did a write-up and how to modify the housing to make it serviceable.
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-forum/476948-complete-cv-axle-rebuild.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-forum/476948-complete-cv-axle-rebuild.html
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#8
Sorry I could not be of more assistance...The link to the DIY I provided, shows the axle shaft separate from the stub axle and boot flange assy., but does not show or indicate that the boot flange can be removed from the stub axle as a separate piece.
In the better photo you provided, looks as if the boot flange is actually swagged/crimped onto the stub axle assy., which as a component, looks to be an expensive piece!
jscott82's link seems to be much more real world assistance...The boot flange is not removable and apparently needs to be set up on a lathe and cut, to be separated. I have the technical skills to do this rather simple job, but am lacking the aforementioned lathe
FWIW, a steady rest, and not ones hand; is the proper method for supporting the axle shaft. We have a name for guys that machine parts as mentioned in the second link...Stumpy!
On reassembly, I would want to use some sort of gasket material to seal and prevent grease from possibly weeping out from the cut edge of the boot flange.
In the better photo you provided, looks as if the boot flange is actually swagged/crimped onto the stub axle assy., which as a component, looks to be an expensive piece!
jscott82's link seems to be much more real world assistance...The boot flange is not removable and apparently needs to be set up on a lathe and cut, to be separated. I have the technical skills to do this rather simple job, but am lacking the aforementioned lathe
FWIW, a steady rest, and not ones hand; is the proper method for supporting the axle shaft. We have a name for guys that machine parts as mentioned in the second link...Stumpy!
On reassembly, I would want to use some sort of gasket material to seal and prevent grease from possibly weeping out from the cut edge of the boot flange.
Last edited by nine9six; 08-27-2015 at 01:40 PM.
#9
Instructor
Thread Starter
nine9six - I think you are right. It looks swaged on.
jscott82 - Thanks for that link. The flange must be fixed or Geoffrey Ring wouldn't have used a lathe to cut it off and screws to reassemble.
I will clean, re grease and re-boot the inboard CV and re-boot the outboard CV.
jscott82 - Thanks for that link. The flange must be fixed or Geoffrey Ring wouldn't have used a lathe to cut it off and screws to reassemble.
I will clean, re grease and re-boot the inboard CV and re-boot the outboard CV.
#10
nine9six - I think you are right. It looks swaged on.
jscott82 - Thanks for that link. The flange must be fixed or Geoffrey Ring wouldn't have used a lathe to cut it off and screws to reassemble.
I will clean, re grease and re-boot the inboard CV and re-boot the outboard CV.
jscott82 - Thanks for that link. The flange must be fixed or Geoffrey Ring wouldn't have used a lathe to cut it off and screws to reassemble.
I will clean, re grease and re-boot the inboard CV and re-boot the outboard CV.
EDIT
At the cost of approx $500 per rear axle, it would certainly provide enough motivation for me to follow the DIY, and make my rear axle, serviceable.