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The linear bearings in the nose cone jam easily from debris. There are I recall 11 linear bearings in all but the long one in the nose cone is located low in the oil level and more prone to picking up debris. Especially if you had the car nose down - the oil runs to the front of the box.
The linear bearings in the nose cone jam easily from debris. There are I recall 11 linear bearings in all but the long one in the nose cone is located low in the oil level and more prone to picking up debris. Especially if you had the car nose down - the oil runs to the front of the box.
Any chance a DIY may develope on a cure for this? Would be nice to have something to fall back on, when something like this pops up.
Aloha
Richard
Last edited by OverBoosted28; 07-29-2015 at 02:03 AM.
Chris that is GREAT news! It looked like I was gong to be dropping the engine and trans. I will take pictures of what I find. Call any time 949 282-3192 C.
It would be really nice to find the cause and fix this without dropping the engine and trans.
Gerry, I forget exactly which hole the bearing jammed in. But if you look at my last picture. You'll see the shift fork in the middle of the picture and the rod that supports it. One of those rods got stuck. If you take the trans apart, you or your mechanic should be able to spot the issue pretty quickly
I took the front cover off last night with the trans in the car. Thanks for the support and encouragement Chris. Two non-metallic pieces of debris were found near the shift rod linear bearing. Unfortunately they are not the cause of the incident.
With the engine mount nuts run down so the nuts still provide full support and the center of the trans supported by a jack and front cover off, the shift rod still will not go fully into 2, 4, and 6 gears. The problem is further inside the trans.
There is still something inside the trans preventing the shift rod from making full travel into 2, 4, and 6 gears. The trans is going to have to come out.
An body in the Socal area have a 993 with a 4.0 ring and pinion I could get a ride in?
The consensus from most transmission guru's is that you want to STAY AWAY from the 4.0 R&P.
That particular gear set does not have a "walking" tooth count. For example, the 4.0 gear set meshes the same teeth every 4 rotations. If I'm not mistaken the standard 3.44 gears take 25 rotations to mesh the same teeth. You will experience MUCH shorter lifespan of you R&P with the 4.0 set.
In addition, even though you will be giving yourself more thrust in a given gear, you will not fix the primary issue which is the huge drop between gears, especially the 1-2 shift. You will also lower the already very low ratio of first gear. I know it is an enticing option on the surface, but I really think that the disadvantages of the 4.0 set greatly outweigh the additional torque. I'd say wait and spend your money on some new gears.
Exact same issue for me but I was luckier and the bearings didn't jam like that. You'd be amazed at how many of those little bearings came pouring out when we opened the differential.
Bummer Gerry it wasnt something easier. Looks as though the trans has to come out and apart. Good time to inspect the diff / check spider gears for pitting et al.
Jyster thanks for the input on 4.0 ring and pinion. I wasn't aware of that scenario.
I spent the money and changed all gears except first about 11 years ago. I was doing some auto-crossing at the time and it made me crazy so I fixed it. I spec'd the gears and provided a euro box to Bobby Hart at California Motorsports who did the box and a PM limited slip. The rpm drop between first and second is no more.
Gerry. Sounds like you have a bit of a project on your hands. Let me know if you want to bring her over to investigate further on my car lift. I'm not too far from you - North Tustin. I'm also very interested in your euro box rebuild.
Gerry,
I think the guys already have you on the right track looking for debris in the forward shift rod linear bearing. The last time I had your issue it was down to worn out sun gears inside the stock differential assembly throwing particles into the end of the linear bearing cavity.
There is a long shot fix that might work. Remove the differential flanges, diff cover and the differential assembly. Clear out as much oil as you can, then locate the open hole to the linear bearing cavity. Whilst operating the shaft, wash out the cavity with brake cleaner (or petrol, paraffin, w.h.y.), then blow out with an air line. If the travel increases, refit the diff, fill up with oil and give it a try.
07-25-2015, 01:47 AM
