TRG sway bar bushing / collar.
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
TRG sway bar bushing / collar.
I have a dual purpose car. Motons, 600/800#, trg sways.
When I first got the car it had a VERY slight metal to metal clunk when going over uneven rough roads. I checked everything over but did not see the obvious. It slowly got worse. After 5000 miles and 8 months of ownership, this annoying little clunk has finally been fixed.
problem: The sway bar retaining collar had pushed up against the front subframe. Eventually it started to ware a recessed groove.
BEFORE: (bar slid away from subframe for picture.)
The TRG delrin bushings are asymmetrical. One side of the bushing is much longer than the other side.
Mine were installed incorrectly. The long side of the bushing should point towards the outside. I removed the bracket and spun the bushing 180. Now the collar rests against the bushing rather than the subframe. Problem solved.
AFTER:
What about the rear sway bar?
Here are my rear sway bar limiters. I do not see any contact on either side.
Should I consider adding something between the collar and rear subframe?
What have others done?
Cheers, Jason
When I first got the car it had a VERY slight metal to metal clunk when going over uneven rough roads. I checked everything over but did not see the obvious. It slowly got worse. After 5000 miles and 8 months of ownership, this annoying little clunk has finally been fixed.
problem: The sway bar retaining collar had pushed up against the front subframe. Eventually it started to ware a recessed groove.
BEFORE: (bar slid away from subframe for picture.)
The TRG delrin bushings are asymmetrical. One side of the bushing is much longer than the other side.
Mine were installed incorrectly. The long side of the bushing should point towards the outside. I removed the bracket and spun the bushing 180. Now the collar rests against the bushing rather than the subframe. Problem solved.
AFTER:
What about the rear sway bar?
Here are my rear sway bar limiters. I do not see any contact on either side.
Should I consider adding something between the collar and rear subframe?
What have others done?
Cheers, Jason
#2
it might not look it but the rear bushings are also asymmetrical.
if you remove them you'll find one side is 1mm wider than the other.
so just rotate the bushings 180 and you'll be set.
if you remove them you'll find one side is 1mm wider than the other.
so just rotate the bushings 180 and you'll be set.
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
#5
Rennlist Member
I gave up on them...
Initially they were incorrectly installed…they would move to one side of the car under load, and in the process, move the mounting collars just enough to put an added staring on the affected drop link, then the drop link would break.
I had Viper Bob fix them….but the collars on the bars came loose again, they were never right.
The TRGs were cheap initially, about $600 a set…but you get what you pay for. In addition, there bars are too big/stiff. Finally I got rid of them and replaced them with 993 RS bars and Tarrett Engineering drop links…best move for me. Have not had a lick of trouble since…and this is 4+ years with the present configuration.
I had Viper Bob fix them….but the collars on the bars came loose again, they were never right.
The TRGs were cheap initially, about $600 a set…but you get what you pay for. In addition, there bars are too big/stiff. Finally I got rid of them and replaced them with 993 RS bars and Tarrett Engineering drop links…best move for me. Have not had a lick of trouble since…and this is 4+ years with the present configuration.
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
….but the collars on the bars came loose again, they were never right.
...... In addition, there bars are too big/stiff. Finally I got rid of them and replaced them with 993 RS bars and Tarrett Engineering drop links…best move for me. Have not had a lick of trouble since…and this is 4+ years with the present configuration.
...... In addition, there bars are too big/stiff. Finally I got rid of them and replaced them with 993 RS bars and Tarrett Engineering drop links…best move for me. Have not had a lick of trouble since…and this is 4+ years with the present configuration.
Glad you are enjoying the rs bars. Any idea how much softer they are?
Cheers, Jason
Trending Topics
#8
Race Car
I have TRG Bars on my car, came with the car when I bought it, I had the same issues as Martin, bar would move and then break the front drop links. This has everything to do with installation.
I re powdercoated them and had the collars coated, with a correct installation they have now been on the car for 5+ years without an issue.
I re powdercoated them and had the collars coated, with a correct installation they have now been on the car for 5+ years without an issue.
#9
Rennlist Member
How not to install sway bars & PSS9s
Viper Bob's Comments on my suspension:
1) Washers were used under the allen bolts on the rear drop links preventing the heim joints from turning. Result - the drop links were binding and one needs to be replaced.
2) The bolt on the lower drop link that goes through the sway bar was too short. This resulted in the bolt only going half way into the nut that holds it on. This meant that there were NO threads contacting the nylon to lock the bolt in place. This could easily have come off with catastrophic results.
3) Improper spacers (too thick) were used between the droplinks and the sway bar. This caused the drop links to bind as they had no freeplay.
4) The locking collars on the rear were improperly installed causing the sway bar to shift 2 inches to one side (also causing more drop link binding issues).
5) The delrin bushings were improperly lubricated. No sign of any proper delrin bushing grease was evident. It is possible that standard grease may have been used at one time, but this would not have been a proper lubricant for these bushings anyway.
6) The locking ring on the passenger rear PSS9 was completely loose allowing the sway bar mount to turn freely. This caused the other mount, with the side forces, to swivel from proper orientation causing improper sway preload.
7) The front sway bar bushings were put in backwards along with the locking collars that were also installed improperly. This caused the sway bar to shift 4 inches to one side, and the locking collar that was still in place was pivoting on the aluminum suspension member. These elongated bushings are designed to move the locking collars to the OUTSIDE of the suspension arm, and the delrin bushing then stands off the locking collar from contacting the aluminum suspension arm.
8) Again, no sign of proper lubrication was evident on the front bushings.
_________
Note all items mentioned above were corrected, and I was still breaking drop links….bars are too big, poorly designed with bolt on mounting collars. If you have TRG bars and they work for you, great!!! They just didn't work for me.
1) Washers were used under the allen bolts on the rear drop links preventing the heim joints from turning. Result - the drop links were binding and one needs to be replaced.
2) The bolt on the lower drop link that goes through the sway bar was too short. This resulted in the bolt only going half way into the nut that holds it on. This meant that there were NO threads contacting the nylon to lock the bolt in place. This could easily have come off with catastrophic results.
3) Improper spacers (too thick) were used between the droplinks and the sway bar. This caused the drop links to bind as they had no freeplay.
4) The locking collars on the rear were improperly installed causing the sway bar to shift 2 inches to one side (also causing more drop link binding issues).
5) The delrin bushings were improperly lubricated. No sign of any proper delrin bushing grease was evident. It is possible that standard grease may have been used at one time, but this would not have been a proper lubricant for these bushings anyway.
6) The locking ring on the passenger rear PSS9 was completely loose allowing the sway bar mount to turn freely. This caused the other mount, with the side forces, to swivel from proper orientation causing improper sway preload.
7) The front sway bar bushings were put in backwards along with the locking collars that were also installed improperly. This caused the sway bar to shift 4 inches to one side, and the locking collar that was still in place was pivoting on the aluminum suspension member. These elongated bushings are designed to move the locking collars to the OUTSIDE of the suspension arm, and the delrin bushing then stands off the locking collar from contacting the aluminum suspension arm.
8) Again, no sign of proper lubrication was evident on the front bushings.
_________
Note all items mentioned above were corrected, and I was still breaking drop links….bars are too big, poorly designed with bolt on mounting collars. If you have TRG bars and they work for you, great!!! They just didn't work for me.
#10
Rennlist Member
Also had TRGs and had too much clunking. Replaced them with RS bars. I should have done the RS bars from the get go. Spent more $$ in the long run vs doing it right the first time around.
#11
there is a theory that every mm of thickness is worth about 19% in stiffness.
http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/bulletins/BL-281.pdf
for softer you could get just the 23mm front bar which works nicely with the trg 22mm rear. the downside is changing the front bar, especially trying to get that 25mm out, is a major pain.
the other direction is to try the h&r 24mm rear which is an easy swap. I'm currently using the trg 25mm front and h&r 24mm rear and absolutely love it.
going softer or stiffer will depend on what tires you are using for the track.
if you aren't already, using adjustable drop links will take out any preload and make surface street driving easier.
#12
RL Technical Advisor
#13
you might have a special RS 25mm front bar, the RS front bar I have is only 23mm. both the porsche RS 23mm bar and the trg 25mm bar have 5 adjustment holes, according to the link I posted that makes the trg bar 40% stiffer in the front and 46% stiffer in the rear. I've also installed and driven quite a bit with both the RS and trg bars and find the RS bars much softer..
so I'll stick with my 'rs bars are much softer' comparison.