Kacey

I will be installing my H&R coilovers in the next few weeks and was thinking of upgrading a couple other components before the alignment. It seems like Walrods bushings are a must and that adjustable rear tie rod ends are also a very welcome upgrade. After searching alot, it seems as though the solid Tarret and rennline links are much harsher and only have a 1-2 year lifetime on a car that is driven a fair amount on the street. Is it a worthy investment?

RS engine mounts will also be installed.

I will set the suspension at +/- RS ride height.

Should I consider any other upgrades?

I had started a thread last week about my LR wheel being too far forward..in order to adjust it back to the proper position, will the OEM links be fine?

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...r-forward.html




thank you ALL!!!

OverBoosted28

Where'd you get "1-2 year" lifespan on the adj. rear control arms? Those items are stout and should last much longer than that.

Bill Verburg

Don't bother w/ all mono-***** suspension unless the car is doing a lot of track and very little street days

The factory really did get it right on the RS, you can tweek it a bit for some track use

for RS height or lower
front
RS wheel carriers and tie rods(tweek-GT2 monoball inner tie rods w/ the RS outer)
Sport rubber bush on the trailing leg of the A arm(tweek-sport rubber bushes on the leading leg)
8x18ET52 wheels(tweek- 8.5 x18)
Sealed monball shock tops(tweek- strut bar across the top)
Bilstein mono tube gas shocks(tweek-have a digressive revalve tuned to the car and use)

rear
RS A-arm
RS KT link
tweek - Tarett or Rennline toe link
tweek - solid side mounts
be sure that all the others arms are nominal
Bilstein mono tube gas shocks w/ sealed mono-ball top mounts(tweek digressive revalve)
10 x18ET65 wheels

RS spring rates were 245/457, H&R performance used to be listed as 290-310/350-370, you can profitably go much harder w/ the right shocks up to 600/800 at this end it's getting out of the street catagory

Kacey

From this thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...-toe-arms.html

Spyder_Man

I think I planted the seed of thought in the OP's mind about adjustable control arms vs. factory. The costs are so close, that if the OEM control arm needs replacement, why not opt for the performance part. Kacey's car has less than half the mileage on mine, so his toe arms may be fine on the car as is. Keep in mind you'll need the locking hardware and rubber boots as well so that drives up the total cost some.

If you're not prepping the car for track use, then I wouldn't replace anything unless it is worn out and needs replacement. Lastly for ride-height, I'm doing fine with RS+10 on city streets, but I have to be really careful about driving over any ramps (in and out of parking garages, gas stations, etc). When in doubt approach on the diagonal. If you don't mind doing that, then consider this ride height. If you do, go with ROW ride height.

Don't go RS ride height unless you are replacing the front wheel carrier uprights, tie-rods, swaybar drop-links, etc. to RS specifications. The point is it will cost you a lot more $$$ to drop the next 10mm than it does to drop the first 10mm below ROW. I also think RS ride height for street use would be just silly as you'd be scraping your front lip and exhaust tips constantly.

I hope this all helps the OP with his deliberations.

P.S. One last question for the OP, did your 993 come with the M030 sport suspension package? Also OP feel free to PM me to learn more about my recent suspension overhaul experience. Bill V's wisdom on 993 suspension trumps all others IMHO.

Kacey

thanks guys! It looks like RS height may be a little too much $$ investment for me at this time, plus maybe i need to leave something for the future

Bill: I will print your list and put it on my fridge..thank you for all the info.

Spyder_man ..expect a PM. I really appreciate it!

Spyder_Man

I'd also recommend taking at look at a past thread that I created and Bill provided detailed knowledge within:

To Walrod or Not to Walrod?