Possible to identify LWF with engine in car?
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Possible to identify LWF with engine in car?
The car currently has 116k miles and I do have receipts for a new LWF package. I question the LWF was ever installed because I'm not getting the typical rocks in a blender when the car is out of gear and clutch out. Also no additional noise when accelerating (never experienced that in my other 993 but read about it here). Also the clutch releases very very high. I'm hoping it's just the slave cylinder but also thinking that the clutch may be about done. The question as posted, is can the LWF package be identified with the engine in. The slave could be removed along with the venting hose/suction horn for access.
My last clutch gave out at about 70k miles so hard to believe this one could still be stock but who knows? Your knowledge would be greatly appreciated.
My last clutch gave out at about 70k miles so hard to believe this one could still be stock but who knows? Your knowledge would be greatly appreciated.
#2
Nordschleife Master
The LWF will rev up much more quickly (with the clutch pedal fully in) and drop revs much more quickly than a standard, dual-mass flywheel. Night and day.
Most 993 clutches engage rather high on the pedal. I wouldn't replace a clutch until it starts slipping.
A clutch can easily last 200k miles, if properly driven and not abused.
Most 993 clutches engage rather high on the pedal. I wouldn't replace a clutch until it starts slipping.
A clutch can easily last 200k miles, if properly driven and not abused.
#3
Nordschleife Master
some data is in this thread regarding rev drop times for LWF: https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...f-mwf-lwf.html
about a second for 4k to idle if you have a LWF, DMF is about 3.5 seconds, quite a difference.
about a second for 4k to idle if you have a LWF, DMF is about 3.5 seconds, quite a difference.
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
I think from the responses, I need to be more specific. Is there a way to identify that you have a LWF visually. I thought my reference to removing pieces off the transmission for access made that clear.
#5
Nordschleife Master
did you read post #3?
"The transmission bellhousing has various openings (bottom, side). If you jack the car up and get under there to take a look, the steel starter ring gear on a DMF will show corrosion while the LWF's aluminum ring will have none. "
"The transmission bellhousing has various openings (bottom, side). If you jack the car up and get under there to take a look, the steel starter ring gear on a DMF will show corrosion while the LWF's aluminum ring will have none. "
#6
Rennlist Member
I think they were trying to save you some trouble...
You might be able to get a peek through the vent tube opening. Flashlight and probably a mirror needed.
You can get a glimpse of the flywheel profile.
Pics of DMF and LWF are all over the interwebz...
This post shows both. Note the flywheel surface in relation to the start ring gear: http://openpitlane.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=2612
Hope that helps.
If not, my apologies.
BTW, you don't always hear the trans noise
Especially in colder weather
You might be able to get a peek through the vent tube opening. Flashlight and probably a mirror needed.
You can get a glimpse of the flywheel profile.
Pics of DMF and LWF are all over the interwebz...
This post shows both. Note the flywheel surface in relation to the start ring gear: http://openpitlane.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=2612
Hope that helps.
If not, my apologies.
BTW, you don't always hear the trans noise
Especially in colder weather
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
Sorry, no I didn't read the thread because it only mentioned rev drop times.
Trending Topics
#8
Instructor
Thread Starter
#9
Rennlist Member
#10
Nordschleife Master
there are also those of us with bad hearing that can't hear the rattling...
Maybe it is years of listening to music too loud, or just that some noises don't seem to register, but I really don't hear any rattling with my LWF either.
OTOH, I haven't had it for long (only driven about 300 miles since it was installed) and have not had any long drives. I think I read somewhere it needs to be fairly warm before it starts rattling.
Maybe it is years of listening to music too loud, or just that some noises don't seem to register, but I really don't hear any rattling with my LWF either.
OTOH, I haven't had it for long (only driven about 300 miles since it was installed) and have not had any long drives. I think I read somewhere it needs to be fairly warm before it starts rattling.
#11
Rennlist Member
there are also those of us with bad hearing that can't hear the rattling...
Maybe it is years of listening to music too loud, or just that some noises don't seem to register, but I really don't hear any rattling with my LWF either.
OTOH, I haven't had it for long (only driven about 300 miles since it was installed) and have not had any long drives. I think I read somewhere it needs to be fairly warm before it starts rattling.
Maybe it is years of listening to music too loud, or just that some noises don't seem to register, but I really don't hear any rattling with my LWF either.
OTOH, I haven't had it for long (only driven about 300 miles since it was installed) and have not had any long drives. I think I read somewhere it needs to be fairly warm before it starts rattling.
that could be it
Seriously, we work on and install many LWF set ups on 993...
Rarely are they what I'd describe as "noisy".
Other variables (other than gearbox temp) are gear oil type and shift rod style.
Solid joint in the shift rod will transmit more NVH into the cabin.
#12
Instructor
Thread Starter
old and deaf
that could be it
Seriously, we work on and install many LWF set ups on 993...
Rarely are they what I'd describe as "noisy".
Other variables (other than gearbox temp) are gear oil type and shift rod style.
Solid joint in the shift rod will transmit more NVH into the cabin.
that could be it
Seriously, we work on and install many LWF set ups on 993...
Rarely are they what I'd describe as "noisy".
Other variables (other than gearbox temp) are gear oil type and shift rod style.
Solid joint in the shift rod will transmit more NVH into the cabin.
Also if my memory serves me correct, the Andial flywheel was slightly heavier to avoid stalling issues on a 95. Maybe that's why it made more noise.
#13
Nordschleife Master
The ANDIAL FW has weights attached to it, some call it a Mid-weight FW. Yes, I believe it was intended to remedy the stalling issues with 95s.
Don't know if that has anything to do with the noise or not.
Don't know if that has anything to do with the noise or not.
#15
Three Wheelin'
OP- Just drive the car till you start getting clutch slippage. Then pull the trans and see what you got and do what you need to do. Till then, you are just guessing. Just my humble opinion!