76,555 Mile Service Routine (clutch & various "while in there") for Sapphire
#47
Rennlist Member
I am nearing this mileage and my clutch is in a very similar condition, catches right at the end... Only seems to slip at high RPM on shifts to 2nd and 3rd. Will likely be replacing in the spring!
#50
Burning Brakes
Ed, which method did you use for removing the old RMS? When we did Cosmos99's clutch/LWF/RMS, we literally had to screw self tappers into it and pry it out. His had ZERO signs of any seep but it was a "while we're there" thing. Were you ably to just use a pick or flathead? My 105k mile 993 has a seep there and I may drop my lump too soon for nearly the same stuff as youre doing (lifters only after pending inspection).
#51
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Ed, which method did you use for removing the old RMS? When we did Cosmos99's clutch/LWF/RMS, we literally had to screw self tappers into it and pry it out. His had ZERO signs of any seep but it was a "while we're there" thing. Were you ably to just use a pick or flathead? My 105k mile 993 has a seep there and I may drop my lump too soon for nearly the same stuff as youre doing (lifters only after pending inspection).
Then, I tapped it in very slowly and evenly using a 3/8" extension and a plastic hammer. My larger seal installer was a bit too small, only the circumference of the crank end. Besides, I'm not sure I could have tapped it in from the center.
#52
Burning Brakes
We tried that for 20 minutes and you shoulda seen how mangled the seal was and only about 1/2" of it pulled out, haha. That thing was IN there... but point of no return led us to the screws/prying method. cleaned the seat and tapped the new one in simply... but man, getting it out was a PITA, lol. Maybe mine will be easier.
#53
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Well, with travel and some out of town guests last weekend, not a lot done. But, I did pull the injectors, and got the tin off to get access to valve covers. I also found some deteriorated insulation on the wires going to the SAI pump at the back of the engine. IIRC, Adam had the same problem on his, so this seems to be a pretty sure bet as to a weak point, based on these two samples. These are the only "bad wires" or connector I've seen, so far.
Sent the injectors to WitchHunter yesterday, so I hope to have them back before Christmas.
Off to Chicago in the morning. Need to take the wife and dog out in the boat on Saturday , but come Sunday-I'm on it. No more work after this week, so my goal is to get her off the stand 12/28, and in before 1/1.
Sent the injectors to WitchHunter yesterday, so I hope to have them back before Christmas.
Off to Chicago in the morning. Need to take the wife and dog out in the boat on Saturday , but come Sunday-I'm on it. No more work after this week, so my goal is to get her off the stand 12/28, and in before 1/1.
#54
Rennlist Member
I also found some deteriorated insulation on the wires going to the SAI pump at the back of the engine. IIRC, Adam had the same problem on his, so this seems to be a pretty sure bet as to a weak point, based on these two samples. These are the only "bad wires" or connector I've seen, so far.
That wiring is pretty alarming isn't it. Interesting that that is the only wiring you have noticed like that. The SAI really is like the gift that just keeps on giving.
I had a poke around mine with my lighted mirror, but it seems it is going to be airbox out to inspect that. Do those wires head to the rear fuse box? If they short is it going to be a blown fuse and CEL for no extra air blowing thru the ports cleaning combustion for the O2 Sensor? (for me Varioram, for you a 95, you wouldn't get that CEL, right? Hopefully you'd just get a blown fuse) Or is there anything else on that fuse which is going to stop working bringing more immediate attn. to it? Any idea?
If I had a 95 I'd be tempted just to remove that whole system.
Last edited by JB 911; 12-18-2013 at 11:17 PM. Reason: Added last line
#55
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that wiring is unreal, that could have been disaster situation. Your lucky you found it before...______?
Great thread, Keep it going. Best of luck to ya
Great thread, Keep it going. Best of luck to ya
#58
Fortunately, you can disassemble the electrical connector for the pump & replace the crumbling insulation with heat shrink. Label the leads & soak in a mild acid (e.g. vinegar) to clean off the corrosion.
See below, I suspect they all look like this by now..
See below, I suspect they all look like this by now..
#59
Rennlist Member
Great pics. Any hopes of just removing the pump while in the car and doing this or is it an engine out only task?
Last edited by JB 911; 12-20-2013 at 10:25 AM.
#60
Q: When you removed the injectors; was fuel spill manageable ? Did you leave intact the fuel pressure reg when you lifted the fuel rails upward ? For re-install the injectors should pop right back in, (no hidden small oil rings hidden in fuel rails, right) ?
Thanks
Thanks