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76,555 Mile Service Routine (clutch & various "while in there") for Sapphire

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Old 12-08-2013, 07:24 PM
  #46  
Ed Hughes
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I don't, but I can take one this week. Nothing out of the ordinary in the visual look of it.
Old 12-08-2013, 11:34 PM
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KMASS993
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I am nearing this mileage and my clutch is in a very similar condition, catches right at the end... Only seems to slip at high RPM on shifts to 2nd and 3rd. Will likely be replacing in the spring!
Old 12-09-2013, 11:38 AM
  #48  
Ed Hughes
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Mine wasn't at the point of slipping yet, but I kept waiting for that to show up.
Old 12-10-2013, 03:04 AM
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subscribed. What a great thread. Best of luck on the refresh - don't stop
Old 12-10-2013, 11:13 AM
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RichPugh
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Ed, which method did you use for removing the old RMS? When we did Cosmos99's clutch/LWF/RMS, we literally had to screw self tappers into it and pry it out. His had ZERO signs of any seep but it was a "while we're there" thing. Were you ably to just use a pick or flathead? My 105k mile 993 has a seep there and I may drop my lump too soon for nearly the same stuff as youre doing (lifters only after pending inspection).
Old 12-10-2013, 11:35 AM
  #51  
Ed Hughes
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Originally Posted by RichPugh
Ed, which method did you use for removing the old RMS? When we did Cosmos99's clutch/LWF/RMS, we literally had to screw self tappers into it and pry it out. His had ZERO signs of any seep but it was a "while we're there" thing. Were you ably to just use a pick or flathead? My 105k mile 993 has a seep there and I may drop my lump too soon for nearly the same stuff as youre doing (lifters only after pending inspection).
I pushed it in at the notch with a screwdriver, and then pulled it out with a Craftsman seal remover-kind of a heavy "hook". Wasn't too bad.

Then, I tapped it in very slowly and evenly using a 3/8" extension and a plastic hammer. My larger seal installer was a bit too small, only the circumference of the crank end. Besides, I'm not sure I could have tapped it in from the center.
Old 12-10-2013, 12:25 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Ed Hughes
I pushed it in at the notch with a screwdriver, and then pulled it out with a Craftsman seal remover-kind of a heavy "hook". Wasn't too bad.
We tried that for 20 minutes and you shoulda seen how mangled the seal was and only about 1/2" of it pulled out, haha. That thing was IN there... but point of no return led us to the screws/prying method. cleaned the seat and tapped the new one in simply... but man, getting it out was a PITA, lol. Maybe mine will be easier.
Old 12-17-2013, 11:48 PM
  #53  
Ed Hughes
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Well, with travel and some out of town guests last weekend, not a lot done. But, I did pull the injectors, and got the tin off to get access to valve covers. I also found some deteriorated insulation on the wires going to the SAI pump at the back of the engine. IIRC, Adam had the same problem on his, so this seems to be a pretty sure bet as to a weak point, based on these two samples. These are the only "bad wires" or connector I've seen, so far.

Sent the injectors to WitchHunter yesterday, so I hope to have them back before Christmas.

Off to Chicago in the morning. Need to take the wife and dog out in the boat on Saturday , but come Sunday-I'm on it. No more work after this week, so my goal is to get her off the stand 12/28, and in before 1/1.
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Old 12-18-2013, 11:15 PM
  #54  
JB 911
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Originally Posted by Ed Hughes
I also found some deteriorated insulation on the wires going to the SAI pump at the back of the engine. IIRC, Adam had the same problem on his, so this seems to be a pretty sure bet as to a weak point, based on these two samples. These are the only "bad wires" or connector I've seen, so far.
Enjoying the pics Ed.

That wiring is pretty alarming isn't it. Interesting that that is the only wiring you have noticed like that. The SAI really is like the gift that just keeps on giving.

I had a poke around mine with my lighted mirror, but it seems it is going to be airbox out to inspect that. Do those wires head to the rear fuse box? If they short is it going to be a blown fuse and CEL for no extra air blowing thru the ports cleaning combustion for the O2 Sensor? (for me Varioram, for you a 95, you wouldn't get that CEL, right? Hopefully you'd just get a blown fuse) Or is there anything else on that fuse which is going to stop working bringing more immediate attn. to it? Any idea?

If I had a 95 I'd be tempted just to remove that whole system.

Last edited by JB 911; 12-18-2013 at 11:17 PM. Reason: Added last line
Old 12-19-2013, 06:37 AM
  #55  
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that wiring is unreal, that could have been disaster situation. Your lucky you found it before...______?

Great thread, Keep it going. Best of luck to ya
Old 12-19-2013, 07:59 AM
  #56  
Falcondrivr
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With a '95, have you considered the SAI delete? Then you never have to worry about it again.
Old 12-19-2013, 09:50 AM
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Ed Hughes
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I was going to clean the ports, but I'm not going to pull the heat exchangers. I'll leave SAI, as it is, intact for now.
Old 12-20-2013, 10:01 AM
  #58  
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Fortunately, you can disassemble the electrical connector for the pump & replace the crumbling insulation with heat shrink. Label the leads & soak in a mild acid (e.g. vinegar) to clean off the corrosion.

See below, I suspect they all look like this by now..
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Old 12-20-2013, 10:08 AM
  #59  
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Great pics. Any hopes of just removing the pump while in the car and doing this or is it an engine out only task?

Last edited by JB 911; 12-20-2013 at 10:25 AM.
Old 12-20-2013, 10:33 AM
  #60  
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Q: When you removed the injectors; was fuel spill manageable ? Did you leave intact the fuel pressure reg when you lifted the fuel rails upward ? For re-install the injectors should pop right back in, (no hidden small oil rings hidden in fuel rails, right) ?

Thanks


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