993 GT2 EVO build thread "Winter project 2014"
#286
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
How much hp in your GT2?
#287
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I'm looking to change the front from '97 to the '98 style...I believe the latter one has improved oil cooling, as you can see from the ducting in the bumper:
Haven't really ever had any issues with engine cooling with two coolers and 400hp. But the GT2 engine is another story...
Haven't really ever had any issues with engine cooling with two coolers and 400hp. But the GT2 engine is another story...
#288
I hope you enjoyed driving with the STT and that we can see you next Season more often and have a battle with 993's
I also heard it is a replica build with original Parts ? Dont know if that is true
#289
I'm looking to change the front from '97 to the '98 style...I believe the latter one has improved oil cooling, as you can see from the ducting in the bumper:
Haven't really ever had any issues with engine cooling with two coolers and 400hp. But the GT2 engine is another story...
Haven't really ever had any issues with engine cooling with two coolers and 400hp. But the GT2 engine is another story...
But some say that the '98 is better in aërodynamic, we went for the look
#290
Intermediate
I always depends how you define a replica ;-)
The car has been built in 98 for Wieth Racing by german companies Roitmayer and Herberth Motorsport to compete in the german GTP series and the FIA GT WC. They basically were ordering the GT2 too late (back then the car had to be ordered and paid before the summer holidays in order to get a car beginning of the next year) and could not get a factory car. The whole car has been built by completely using factory parts. Because Porsche did not do any further developments on the GT2 most cars were from then on built by motorsports companies, like the Roock cars, which also do not have Porsche factory VINs. The only difference from my car to a factory GT2 Evo is the VIN. The car has been raced in the 99 and 2000 FIA GT WC and had some top 10 finishes and one 5th place at Spielberg. The car is really fast and has 740hp and 980Nm in the current spec. The Problem is that the gearbox cant handle the power and that I almost need as much time to shift between the gears as to accelerate between the gears ;-)
The car has been built in 98 for Wieth Racing by german companies Roitmayer and Herberth Motorsport to compete in the german GTP series and the FIA GT WC. They basically were ordering the GT2 too late (back then the car had to be ordered and paid before the summer holidays in order to get a car beginning of the next year) and could not get a factory car. The whole car has been built by completely using factory parts. Because Porsche did not do any further developments on the GT2 most cars were from then on built by motorsports companies, like the Roock cars, which also do not have Porsche factory VINs. The only difference from my car to a factory GT2 Evo is the VIN. The car has been raced in the 99 and 2000 FIA GT WC and had some top 10 finishes and one 5th place at Spielberg. The car is really fast and has 740hp and 980Nm in the current spec. The Problem is that the gearbox cant handle the power and that I almost need as much time to shift between the gears as to accelerate between the gears ;-)
#292
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
#293
#294
I always depends how you define a replica ;-)
The car has been built in 98 for Wieth Racing by german companies Roitmayer and Herberth Motorsport to compete in the german GTP series and the FIA GT WC. They basically were ordering the GT2 too late (back then the car had to be ordered and paid before the summer holidays in order to get a car beginning of the next year) and could not get a factory car. The whole car has been built by completely using factory parts. Because Porsche did not do any further developments on the GT2 most cars were from then on built by motorsports companies, like the Roock cars, which also do not have Porsche factory VINs. The only difference from my car to a factory GT2 Evo is the VIN. The car has been raced in the 99 and 2000 FIA GT WC and had some top 10 finishes and one 5th place at Spielberg. The car is really fast and has 740hp and 980Nm in the current spec. The Problem is that the gearbox cant handle the power and that I almost need as much time to shift between the gears as to accelerate between the gears ;-)
The car has been built in 98 for Wieth Racing by german companies Roitmayer and Herberth Motorsport to compete in the german GTP series and the FIA GT WC. They basically were ordering the GT2 too late (back then the car had to be ordered and paid before the summer holidays in order to get a car beginning of the next year) and could not get a factory car. The whole car has been built by completely using factory parts. Because Porsche did not do any further developments on the GT2 most cars were from then on built by motorsports companies, like the Roock cars, which also do not have Porsche factory VINs. The only difference from my car to a factory GT2 Evo is the VIN. The car has been raced in the 99 and 2000 FIA GT WC and had some top 10 finishes and one 5th place at Spielberg. The car is really fast and has 740hp and 980Nm in the current spec. The Problem is that the gearbox cant handle the power and that I almost need as much time to shift between the gears as to accelerate between the gears ;-)
Once i saw a advertisement of it, a year ago, was it yours then ?
740 hp is a lot !!! nice !!, is your engine build by RS Tuning ?
Another question do you experience a lot of bumpsteer ? we have a lot of trouble with that, nice to hear the experience from some one who drives a near identical car
And juha ? any updates ? which bumper are you going for ?
#295
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
You can check this very easily from the front compartment by looking at where the front suspension longitudinal subframes are bolted. If they are on the outer positions, then the problem is elsewhere. But, if they are bolted to the inner positions, you must have severe bump steer problems with the car with those huge front wheels.
#296
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I ordered some nice carbon fibre bits from Hans...
It will be '98 style front with the cooling ducts etc. I also bought new front fenders with integrated flares and new rear flares + side skirts. Then I have everything from Hans. And everything in carbon.
It will be '98 style front with the cooling ducts etc. I also bought new front fenders with integrated flares and new rear flares + side skirts. Then I have everything from Hans. And everything in carbon.
#297
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I'm trying to make a decision regarding the pedal box to use.
I've been looking at the Tilton 900 series and AP Racing reverse pull (CP5516-7).
The AP pedal box is over 2.5x the price of the Tilton... I know the AP one is REALLY good but I'm still having hard time convincing my self it is worth the price tag, which with the master cylinders is almost 5k eur...
Any comments would be appreciated!
http://tiltonracing.com/product/900-...edal-assembly/
http://www.apracing.com/product_deta...ree_pedal.aspx
I've been looking at the Tilton 900 series and AP Racing reverse pull (CP5516-7).
The AP pedal box is over 2.5x the price of the Tilton... I know the AP one is REALLY good but I'm still having hard time convincing my self it is worth the price tag, which with the master cylinders is almost 5k eur...
Any comments would be appreciated!
http://tiltonracing.com/product/900-...edal-assembly/
http://www.apracing.com/product_deta...ree_pedal.aspx
#299
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The benefit of the pedal box is you have full adjustment over brake pessure, brake bias and also pedal ergonomics.
#300
Rennlist Member
I haven't used the 900 Tilton... But I've had some experience with the 600 series in a 911. Fit and feel were awesome. Super easy to switch out masters (even easier on the 900) and zero slop or play.
Their customer service was excellent when it came to choosing master cylinders. They have an engineer who has a wicked spreadsheet when it comes to picking diameters. I think we ended up either 3/4, 3/4 or 3/4, 7/8 on a 2700lb car with 993C2 brakes with full lockup at 100 lbs of pedal force with R compounds. The masters recommended were right on the money the first time, only a little change on the balance bar.
Can't speak to how easy it is to retrofit the brake light contact switch, as we went the pressure switch route.
I'll definitely be going with Tilton when I man up and go to dual masters.
Their customer service was excellent when it came to choosing master cylinders. They have an engineer who has a wicked spreadsheet when it comes to picking diameters. I think we ended up either 3/4, 3/4 or 3/4, 7/8 on a 2700lb car with 993C2 brakes with full lockup at 100 lbs of pedal force with R compounds. The masters recommended were right on the money the first time, only a little change on the balance bar.
Can't speak to how easy it is to retrofit the brake light contact switch, as we went the pressure switch route.
I'll definitely be going with Tilton when I man up and go to dual masters.