plymouthcolt

I just filled the gaps in my front and rear windshield frames using the DIY from bruce7. Almost everything went perfectly except for the rear outer seal.

The seal seats perfectly all the way across the top and halfway down the windshield on each side.

Past the halfway point down the sides and all the way across the bottom the outer seal will not stay.

I push it down and it pops right out. It seems the arrowhead in the seal will not catch on inside of the inner seal.

The inner seal is clean and free of any dirt or chemical.

My best guess is either I got a bad seal from manufacturing (ordered from Pelican 993-545-225-02-M100), or somehow the catch inside the inner seal is damaged?

When I removed the old seal it came off easy but it did have some tension as I pulled it off.

When I pushed down at the top it clicks into the channel. When I push it down on the lower side or bottom it pops right back out. Anyone else encounter this? Should I just glue it on and be done with it?

Howard
1997 911

NP993

Did you get sealant in the channel that the outer seal clicks into?

plymouthcolt

I went out to take another look at the inner sear and I saw these:

As you can see both lower corner inner seals are cracked. As a result there is zero tension on the outer seal.

Looks like I'm gluing in the seal.

Howard
1997 911

geolab

Howard, do NOT glue the seal.
The rear windscreen plastic trim (you call inner seal) is not cracked.
It comes from factory like this, and I think it is the main reason for rust.
There are several splits in the trim at the rear, and all these openings are on the bottom of the windscreen trim.
I am practically sure it is for heat dissipation, since the glass gets a lot of heat in summer, and in winter with the defrost heater element glued partially under the butyl
I am testing at this very moment, several alternatives to remedy the water infiltration to the metal.
Worse is the front windshield has a huge split at the bottom middle, trying to find a good fix in the summer heat, several stuff to make sure no more water gets through ever.
Because your seal is new, some patience is needed, and more force with your thumb, to seat it.

plymouthcolt

I did check that and there was some traces here and there and I cleaned it out with a toothpick. Otherwise the channel was clear of sealant.

Howard
1997 911

plymouthcolt

I'll call it the day as my thumbs are aching from pushing on seals. I wish I hadn't cut up the old seal. I would like to try to refit it.

Howard
1997 911

nine9six

I wound up tucking 5/32" nylon rope into the gap, instead of filling the gap per Bruce7's post. My thoughts were the rope would provide enough tension against the plastic channel with flexibility to hold the outer seal in place. So far, it's working out well.
My thoughts are that Porsche put some water drainage holes in this channel, to route any trapped moisture,which is why i am hesitant to fill the gap; although I cannot confirm these thoughts.

I did however, purchase the products necessary to initiate the fix posted by Bruce7, in the event the rope tension trick failed to achieve the desired outcome.

AOW162435

I'm in a similar dinghy. For nearly 8 years, I've carefully inserted small slivers of wood under the outer seal corners after washing the car. The water that dribbled out made me think I was letting the trapped moisture escape. Well a few weeks ago, I finally built up the courage to actually pull the lower section of the rear window seal to see what I could see. To my dismay, I saw that the entire void along the bottom of the window was filled with water. There was no way that my efforts with little wooden sticks was amounting to anything. So I decided to thoroughly clean out this channel, check for rust, and properly fill the gap around the entire rear window with 3M black urethane.

I pulled the old seal, and then used dish soap and a small brush to thoroughly scrub the channel all around the glass. Once satisfied that it was clean, I blew the channel out and let the car sit for a few days to ensure all moisture was gone. Then I taped off the body around the opening - at the same height as the plastic channel. After this, I cleanly covered the groove in the plastic channel with tape.

After all of this prep, I worked my way around the window, and filled the channel with urethane. With a gloved finger, I tooled the urethane smooth and then removed all of my tape. I let the urethane cure overnight and then installed a fresh outer seal from Porsche.

I started the seal by centering it at the top of the glass and then working my way around on both sides, making sure not to stretch it. The toughest parts were the two bottom corners. Unfortunately I have two short sections where the seal refuses to seat properly (hence my response to this thread). We're on a long road trip at the moment, so I'll need to address this once we're back.

Of course I slung the old seal in the trash...



Andreas

plymouthcolt

There are no drain holes. If you gently peek under the bottom corner for either front or seal after a hard rain, you will see standing water. Porches actually put out a service bulletin to fill the gap per the diy here.

Howard
1997 911

TMc993

Me, too....This kind of thing just gets tiresome....

nine9six

...and because I purchased the the Wurth urethane and a new rear outer seal, I will be duplicating this fix.
It should be noted, that in Bruce7's fix, he did glue down a troublesome corner (with the urethane compound) that refused to lay correctly, and held it in place with packing tape until cured.

While this may create a headache if ever the rear glass needs replacement, it certainly does solve the issue.

DanL993

Very timely for me. It rained cats and dogs at P2O this year and got me to thining about this fix....I think I'll wait.

Andreas: I talked to a guy who uses an air compressor with a rubber tip to blow the air out after washing. My personal technique is to absorb the water using rags. I may just not wash the roof, and keep the Garage Queen out of the rain!! This particular problem really concerns me!!

TMc993

Andreas,

You didn't happen to photo-document this process did you?

Thanks,
Terry

Kein_Ersatz

P2O® was a wet one.

Yup, pull and air dry rear window seal after wash. Front corners, lift edges, insert folded paper towel piece to act as wick.

+1 worries for longterm care (rust bubbles) on both 993 garage Baroness (not quite a Queen ) and the 993 DE tool.

nine9six

Terry,
The fix was well documented by Bruce7. Do an advanced search on his screen name and you will find his post.
HTH

EDIT: Here is the link...
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ar-window.html