RE: brake bleeding on a C4S - best technique?
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
RE: brake bleeding on a C4S - best technique?
I have a motive power bleeder.
There seems to be alot of different techniques out there that are suggested.
Any links to a method that is best for an AWD/ABS car?
There seems to be alot of different techniques out there that are suggested.
Any links to a method that is best for an AWD/ABS car?
#2
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There are not that many techniques, its all based the same basic principle -> pressurize the tank and bleed the calipers. On the C4S, you will need to bleed the accumulator as well. Do not use the pump the pedal technique.
Don't forget to do the clutch circuit while you in there, but be careful to keep the tank very full so you do not have air get into that circuit, the intake is higher than the brake intake.
Can you list what you think the different approaches are?
Cheers,
Mike
Don't forget to do the clutch circuit while you in there, but be careful to keep the tank very full so you do not have air get into that circuit, the intake is higher than the brake intake.
Can you list what you think the different approaches are?
Cheers,
Mike
#3
Rennlist Member
and I bleed the accumulator by turning on the ignition key to run the pump for ~ 10 seconds, then bleed. I repeat this 3 or 4 times before moving onto bleeding the calipers with the motive.
some say bleeding accumulator this way is dangerous due to pressures involved, but I've had no issues in the 4 or 5 times i've bled the system.
I do RR, LR, RF, LF (outer bleeders first then moving to inner bleeders @ each caliper)
connecting a long drain tube to the clutch cylinder bleeder keeps fluid out of your face!
some say bleeding accumulator this way is dangerous due to pressures involved, but I've had no issues in the 4 or 5 times i've bled the system.
I do RR, LR, RF, LF (outer bleeders first then moving to inner bleeders @ each caliper)
connecting a long drain tube to the clutch cylinder bleeder keeps fluid out of your face!
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I have "googled" a few sites.
Some say to turn the ignition key on and others say it is not necessary.
The motive set up is pretty straight forward.
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Sounds like the key is turned on to "pressurize" the accumulator?
Does any one have good picture of the location of the the bleed scews on the accumulator and the for the clutch circuit?
Some say to turn the ignition key on and others say it is not necessary.
The motive set up is pretty straight forward.
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Sounds like the key is turned on to "pressurize" the accumulator?
Does any one have good picture of the location of the the bleed scews on the accumulator and the for the clutch circuit?
#6
Race Director
the bleed screw on the accumulator is so obvious, you can't miss it, its the only thing there.
I run the pump with the key on until the pump stops, turn key off, unplug electrical connector, bleed.
Clutch bleeder is hard to photograph, but its basically right above the halfshaft on the driver side. look around with a flashlight, you'll see it.
I run the pump with the key on until the pump stops, turn key off, unplug electrical connector, bleed.
Clutch bleeder is hard to photograph, but its basically right above the halfshaft on the driver side. look around with a flashlight, you'll see it.
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#8
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I found this picture on the net for the location of the clutch bleed screw.
I have not yet installed my shock on that side, so it should be easy to get to.
From what I have read:
- it accepts a 7mm wrench/socket
- bleed until fluid clear? Or, bleed a minimum amount of volume after clear?
- with a Motive bleeder full of fluid, attchaced to the brake master cylinder and
underpressure, fluid will flow through the clutch circuit once the scew is open
up at the tranny
I read a post on RL from the past which states:
"On the C4S (NA cars maybe somewhat different), there is a very small section of the brake fluid reservoir at the back (nearest the driver) that seems to hold the fluid for the clutch. HOWEVER, if you bleed too long without adding fluid, this section drys up and does NOT auto fill from the rest of the reservoir. This is easy to see (well, SHOULD have been easy to see before we did) if you are using ATE Blue fluid."
I would assume that if the brake cyclinder is full to the top from the start and there is a continuos flow from the Motive - running the clutch resovoir dry should not be an issue?
The accumulator is easy to spot in the front bay:
For my own education:
- what if the reason for powering it up for 10 seconds?
- what is the reason for the DC of the electrical connection if the key is off and
no power is going to the unit?
I have not yet installed my shock on that side, so it should be easy to get to.
From what I have read:
- it accepts a 7mm wrench/socket
- bleed until fluid clear? Or, bleed a minimum amount of volume after clear?
- with a Motive bleeder full of fluid, attchaced to the brake master cylinder and
underpressure, fluid will flow through the clutch circuit once the scew is open
up at the tranny
I read a post on RL from the past which states:
"On the C4S (NA cars maybe somewhat different), there is a very small section of the brake fluid reservoir at the back (nearest the driver) that seems to hold the fluid for the clutch. HOWEVER, if you bleed too long without adding fluid, this section drys up and does NOT auto fill from the rest of the reservoir. This is easy to see (well, SHOULD have been easy to see before we did) if you are using ATE Blue fluid."
I would assume that if the brake cyclinder is full to the top from the start and there is a continuos flow from the Motive - running the clutch resovoir dry should not be an issue?
The accumulator is easy to spot in the front bay:
For my own education:
- what if the reason for powering it up for 10 seconds?
- what is the reason for the DC of the electrical connection if the key is off and
no power is going to the unit?
#9
Race Director
i have no clue what they are talking about in that post.
as far as i know (im basing on a turbo), the brake and clutch fluid are separate.
to blee the clutch, you attach the bleeer to the auxillary reservoir in the frunk on the firewall.
as for the accumulator, i believe its run to make bleeding quicker and easier, since the fluid will then be under pressure.
disconnecting the connector is a safety measure...is it necessary, probably not, but given it takes like 2 seconds, id say its worth it
as far as i know (im basing on a turbo), the brake and clutch fluid are separate.
to blee the clutch, you attach the bleeer to the auxillary reservoir in the frunk on the firewall.
as for the accumulator, i believe its run to make bleeding quicker and easier, since the fluid will then be under pressure.
disconnecting the connector is a safety measure...is it necessary, probably not, but given it takes like 2 seconds, id say its worth it
#11
Drifting
I read a post on RL from the past which states:
"On the C4S (NA cars maybe somewhat different), there is a very small section of the brake fluid reservoir at the back (nearest the driver) that seems to hold the fluid for the clutch. HOWEVER, if you bleed too long without adding fluid, this section drys up and does NOT auto fill from the rest of the reservoir. This is easy to see (well, SHOULD have been easy to see before we did) if you are using ATE Blue fluid."
"On the C4S (NA cars maybe somewhat different), there is a very small section of the brake fluid reservoir at the back (nearest the driver) that seems to hold the fluid for the clutch. HOWEVER, if you bleed too long without adding fluid, this section drys up and does NOT auto fill from the rest of the reservoir. This is easy to see (well, SHOULD have been easy to see before we did) if you are using ATE Blue fluid."
#12