Strange sound from rebuilt engine...
#466
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
See my comments in green.
Off the top of my head...
Interesting about the oil cooler - was the corrosion inside or outside, and what do they think was the cause?
They said internal. Did not ask about cause - I just figured age.
You are replacing the rings, correct?
Was not planning on it - should I? They look OK.
With four chain sprockets, you are replacing the layshaft sprocket as well? I seem to remember that was a bit of a press fit. What about the chain guides?
Yes, Layshaft sprockets. I figured if I'm doing the cam side I should do the other side. How to get them off/on? The chain rails were new. Curiously, one of them cracked (right). Not sure why/how. I'll post pictures of it when I do the rebuild thread (after I get the case back). Obviously, I will replace the cracked one.
You flushing out the chain tensioners as well? How about the lifters?
Yes on the tensioners. No on the lifters. I don't want to risk breaking them but I will try squirting in some carb cleaner.
I assume on assembly you are going to check clearances, etc? I would buy a ARP or equivalent rod stretch gauge, it is not expensive - most accurate method for torquing the rod bolts and now doable since the crankshaft is out.
Absolutely, and I will be using plenty of plastigage. I was planning on using torque method with the value from the machine shop after they stretch/re-size.
Cheers
Mike
Interesting about the oil cooler - was the corrosion inside or outside, and what do they think was the cause?
They said internal. Did not ask about cause - I just figured age.
You are replacing the rings, correct?
Was not planning on it - should I? They look OK.
With four chain sprockets, you are replacing the layshaft sprocket as well? I seem to remember that was a bit of a press fit. What about the chain guides?
Yes, Layshaft sprockets. I figured if I'm doing the cam side I should do the other side. How to get them off/on? The chain rails were new. Curiously, one of them cracked (right). Not sure why/how. I'll post pictures of it when I do the rebuild thread (after I get the case back). Obviously, I will replace the cracked one.
You flushing out the chain tensioners as well? How about the lifters?
Yes on the tensioners. No on the lifters. I don't want to risk breaking them but I will try squirting in some carb cleaner.
I assume on assembly you are going to check clearances, etc? I would buy a ARP or equivalent rod stretch gauge, it is not expensive - most accurate method for torquing the rod bolts and now doable since the crankshaft is out.
Absolutely, and I will be using plenty of plastigage. I was planning on using torque method with the value from the machine shop after they stretch/re-size.
Cheers
Mike
#467
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Replacing the sprockets as a set when replacing the chain is a good idea - I did that, I figured let them bed in all together.
As for rings, what is "alright"? did you measure the ring gap and the land sizes on the pistons?
I would pull the lifters and flush them, and if one need replacing, so be it. If you are spending this $$$, the additional cost is worth it.
Cheers,
Mike
As for rings, what is "alright"? did you measure the ring gap and the land sizes on the pistons?
I would pull the lifters and flush them, and if one need replacing, so be it. If you are spending this $$$, the additional cost is worth it.
Cheers,
Mike
#468
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Replacing the sprockets as a set when replacing the chain is a good idea - I did that, I figured let them bed in all together.
As for rings, what is "alright"? did you measure the ring gap and the land sizes on the pistons?
I would pull the lifters and flush them, and if one need replacing, so be it. If you are spending this $$$, the additional cost is worth it.
Cheers,
Mike
As for rings, what is "alright"? did you measure the ring gap and the land sizes on the pistons?
I would pull the lifters and flush them, and if one need replacing, so be it. If you are spending this $$$, the additional cost is worth it.
Cheers,
Mike
#469
Rennlist Member
With as much running as you did, without a lot of load/acceleration and deceleration/ decompression, I'd not chance the rings seating.
In for a penny, in for a lb.
In for a penny, in for a lb.
#470
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#471
#475
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Before I buy a new set of rings I want to understand why the old ones should not be used. The rings were brand new and have a total of one hour run time. 15 minutes of that was at 2000-2500 RPM. The rest was between 1200 (inital start up ) to 800 (Idle stabilization). Are we saying the rings deformed/seated in an inappropriate manner and are thus suspect? I don't think the old new rings got seated properly as there was evidence of blow by (oil) on top of the pistons. No problem getting new ones, just don't want to spend needlessly.
#476
Race Car
Thanks for the update Peter.
I don't see any reason for not using the new rings you have. A quick check as per Mike above and you should be good. (I am assuming that there are no new marks in the cylinders etc)
I don't see any reason for not using the new rings you have. A quick check as per Mike above and you should be good. (I am assuming that there are no new marks in the cylinders etc)
#477
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Bob, Thanks. Not sure this is 100% necessary as I should be able to flush them out. However, it certainly couldn't hurt and would increase chance of success. So send 'em if you have 'em. Appreciate it.
#478
Rennlist Member
Before I buy a new set of rings I want to understand why the old ones should not be used. The rings were brand new and have a total of one hour run time. 15 minutes of that was at 2000-2500 RPM. The rest was between 1200 (inital start up ) to 800 (Idle stabilization). Are we saying the rings deformed/seated in an inappropriate manner and are thus suspect? I don't think the old new rings got seated properly as there was evidence of blow by (oil) on top of the pistons. No problem getting new ones, just don't want to spend needlessly.
You had no load on your engine during your run-in, so I'd questin if these could have simply glazed, or not seated correctly. Perhaps a more experienced build can answer. I've done one-but break-in is somewhat critical, and I'd go with new rings.