Strange sound from rebuilt engine...
#436
i bought a long block a few years ago for $9k. Ran great. DE'ed it for a year before it was rebuilt-was in a dedicated track car (got the usual 60-80 hours out it). i think the key point is that it was "professionally" evaluated and serviced. i was in a hurry to get a replacement engine (the other engine snapped a valve at daytona-sounded like ball bearings loose in the engine compartment). if you have the time (and patience) and the costs are close, i would go for rebuilding your engine "professionally". at least you know what parts are in it and can upgrade to better parts for a more reliable engine if you wish. BTW german precision is one of the better shops in the country-if any one can fix your case, they can.
doug
doug
#439
Peter, might want to check this out:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...-complete.html
No affiliation.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...-complete.html
No affiliation.
#440
Peter, might want to check this out:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...-complete.html
No affiliation.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...-complete.html
No affiliation.
Peter, sincerely wish you the best of luck in whatever direction you go, will be looking forward to further updates, especially once this is behind you and you're driving the car again.
#441
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
LOL, Is that me on the track?
Actually, I saw that earlier today on the fleabay. Two things caught my eye. One, It is 20 minutes away; Two, "It was a very strong running motor when removed from the car about 3 years ago".
It may be a very fine motor and thank you hchc for the spot, but I don't think I could swallow that whole.
Actually, I saw that earlier today on the fleabay. Two things caught my eye. One, It is 20 minutes away; Two, "It was a very strong running motor when removed from the car about 3 years ago".
It may be a very fine motor and thank you hchc for the spot, but I don't think I could swallow that whole.
No offense, but that thread looks like an impending trainwreck still gaining momentum.
Peter, sincerely wish you the best of luck in whatever direction you go, will be looking forward to further updates, especially once this is behind you and you're driving the car again.
Peter, sincerely wish you the best of luck in whatever direction you go, will be looking forward to further updates, especially once this is behind you and you're driving the car again.
#443
If you get another motor, put me in line for the whole box of parts. I'm sure your getting PM's.
Don't over look some value there.
Don't over look some value there.
Last edited by CalvinC4S; 03-17-2013 at 11:03 PM.
#444
Rennlist Member
Peter,
Very sorry for your misfortune.
I have been following this thread from the beginning.
One thing you might want to consider which I didn't see suggested (forgive me if it was) is to buy a wreck. At least you know it was running when crashed.
Install the motor (after inspection), and part out the rest of the car. The funds received for the part-out may help remove some of the sting.
Regards,
.
Very sorry for your misfortune.
I have been following this thread from the beginning.
One thing you might want to consider which I didn't see suggested (forgive me if it was) is to buy a wreck. At least you know it was running when crashed.
Install the motor (after inspection), and part out the rest of the car. The funds received for the part-out may help remove some of the sting.
Regards,
.
#445
Burning Brakes
We're over-complicating this.
Two options:
1.) Rebuild existing motor.
2.) Source another motor.
The likelihood of #1 costing more than #2 is almost certain. Once you delve into the bottom end, the comma after the dollar sign moves to the right very rapidly.
If Peter can find a strong, used motor, the condition of which can be verified via the same methods one would use when purchasing an entire car (bonus if it is currently installed and running - leak down - etc), the decision should be easy.
Two options:
1.) Rebuild existing motor.
2.) Source another motor.
The likelihood of #1 costing more than #2 is almost certain. Once you delve into the bottom end, the comma after the dollar sign moves to the right very rapidly.
If Peter can find a strong, used motor, the condition of which can be verified via the same methods one would use when purchasing an entire car (bonus if it is currently installed and running - leak down - etc), the decision should be easy.
#446
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I would box it up, send it all to Steve W and what you get back will be awesome and freshly rebuilt by one of the best. That will also add value if you choose to sell it. Just my .02. If you cant swing it financially now, I wouild just do w/o while it gets rebuilt and I saved. Not the cheapest but definately the safest. Especially since he already did the heads.
#447
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Just a quick update...
I am going the route of rebuilding this motor. I am sending the case out to be inspected (not sure just where yet). I am in the process of getting a good used crank (thanks Bob!). The front oil cooler and oil pump are on their way to get inspected and cleaned.
I am going to take Mike J's advice and start a rebuild thread as a way to re-orient myself toward the positive and close this particular chapter.
Thank you everyone for your suggestions, comments and empathy. This is a great place.
I am going the route of rebuilding this motor. I am sending the case out to be inspected (not sure just where yet). I am in the process of getting a good used crank (thanks Bob!). The front oil cooler and oil pump are on their way to get inspected and cleaned.
I am going to take Mike J's advice and start a rebuild thread as a way to re-orient myself toward the positive and close this particular chapter.
Thank you everyone for your suggestions, comments and empathy. This is a great place.
#449
The front oil cooler and oil pump are on their way to get inspected and cleaned
Don't do it!
don't risk your new motor on contaminated lines and coolers. your are betting that the person that cleaned them got everything out. impossible to verify.
also, old lines may have cracks and imperfections in them that prevent adequate cleaning.
a friend of mine lost a new race engine this way-despite the lines/coolers obsessively cleaned.
i have coolers/lines (associated with engine damage) less than a year old but i consider it unethical to sell/give them away.
your are going to invest a lot of money in building a new engine- don't be pound foolish penny wise.
doug
#450
Rennlist Member
Doug,
If you send the parts to an aviation based service shop they will do the job properly including a scan of the internals of the coolers. The oil pump internals are so simple that you can get a full visual of the parts. I have taken apart a couple of oil pumps to inspect them and it is even a DIY. Having it polished will improve the internal friction and take some strain off the intermediate shaft.
If you send the parts to an aviation based service shop they will do the job properly including a scan of the internals of the coolers. The oil pump internals are so simple that you can get a full visual of the parts. I have taken apart a couple of oil pumps to inspect them and it is even a DIY. Having it polished will improve the internal friction and take some strain off the intermediate shaft.