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Strange sound from rebuilt engine...

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Old 03-05-2013, 06:53 PM
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Vorsicht
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Yes, I would not have made it too far. I could have wheel-barrowed it out of the street and back home!

Originally Posted by vincer77
Glad you figured it out Peter. Good thing you didn't take the advice given to drive it around!

I really have to say you have taken all of this so well (publicly anyway). I would not be so calm.

Keep up the good work. You will be a 993 engine expert here shortly.
Old 03-05-2013, 06:59 PM
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I agree, WOW. That is generous. I may take you up on it. They would certainly be in better condition than the current set up.

Originally Posted by dtm407
having had the experience of losing three race engines, i feel for you. there is nothing like the feeling of "how much is this going to cost"? i recently converted a 3.6 1996 engine to a racing 3.8 liter. the engine had about 75k on it and was in perfect running order when disassembled. you can have the matching rods, cylinders, and pistons for $350 + shipping if interested. i have been in your place before and been nervous about "reconditioned" rods especially.

doug
Old 03-05-2013, 07:10 PM
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Mike, All good ideas. I will probably do a 'rebuild' thread. I love the idea of a parts washer but am limited on space at the moment.

Originally Posted by Mike J
Hi Peter,

Admitting that the rod bearings were missed is, to quote the LOTR, "you have shown your quality, sir - the very highest".

For some reason, I found cleaning the cam carrier/spray bars/etc a pain in the butt - would send that out if you have a good local shop.

Definitely send the crank out, get it all checked/cleaned/polished if needed, and you can now do the rods and crank at the same time. Get a stretch gauge (the ARP one is not expensive) so you can do the rod bolts exactly right, or if you are not sure of yourself now, get it done. You rods will need to be machined at the best case, but hopefully not ruined.

if you split the case, you should replace the bearing sets (mains, nose, layshaft). You will need a gasket and bearing set for the bottom end - would recommend using Wrightwood racing gaskets, they are superior.

I am sure you do this, but i would explore the Pelican parts engine rebuilding forum, lots of good info and more people are not talking about the 993 and newer engines.

I would get (if you do not have it already) a 20 gallon parts washer and fresh solvent, it will be really useful to flush out all the passages, parts, etc.

When wiping bearings/parts, I used wipes designed for the computer chip industry - no lint since they are designed for wiping wafers - I used isopropyl alcohol first to clean, then break-in paste, and assemble.

You will need an assistant when assembling the block, its much easier to have to to torque the through bolts in the 20 min you have to do all of them - is a rush!

You may want to start an engine rebuilding thread(s) like I did with lots of pictures - that would be like having a bunch of eyes to double check the work.

Cheers

Mike
Old 03-05-2013, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Vorsicht
Mike, All good ideas. I will probably do a 'rebuild' thread. I love the idea of a parts washer but am limited on space at the moment.
A 20 gal parts washer sits on a bench, is about 20" x 24", and has a hinged lid. Without it, you are going to struggle with cleaning - and it's only around $120 or so. Buy one, use it, and then sell it on craigslist when you are done.. :-)
Old 03-05-2013, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike J
A 20 gal parts washer sits on a bench, is about 20" x 24", and has a hinged lid. Without it, you are going to struggle with cleaning - and it's only around $120 or so. Buy one, use it, and then sell it on craigslist when you are done.. :-)
OK. I will re-consider. I was thinking of the box on a stand thing. All of these one-off tools drive me nuts and they accumulate like dust. I am focusing on the must haves. The nice to haves may wait.
Old 03-05-2013, 08:56 PM
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Here are the pics of the rods. This is representative of all six although this is Cyl. 1, the worst. You will see the point of collision/rough area is nearest to the cylinder, or 9 o'clock on 1-2-3 and 3 o'clock on 4-5-6. They feel smooth to the touch.
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Old 03-05-2013, 09:18 PM
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oof. did you get an idea of what the crank looks like?
Old 03-05-2013, 09:25 PM
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And just for fun, here is what it looks like without the Virtual Bearing.
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Old 03-05-2013, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Quadcammer
oof. did you get an idea of what the crank looks like?
It is not out yet but when it is I will throw up some pix.
Old 03-05-2013, 10:35 PM
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peter

i got your pm, but dont know if you received my response. pm me your email so i can send you photos

doug
Old 03-06-2013, 09:25 AM
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Hi Peter

I really feel for you on this. I rebuilt my top end with my brother and a couple of times we would have done something silly if had not been for the other set of eyes. When you finally win victory will be all the more sweet.

Berni
Old 03-06-2013, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by dtm407
peter

i got your pm, but dont know if you received my response. pm me your email so i can send you photos

doug
Doug, I PM'd you again, this time with email address.
Old 03-06-2013, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by berni29
Hi Peter

I really feel for you on this. I rebuilt my top end with my brother and a couple of times we would have done something silly if had not been for the other set of eyes. When you finally win victory will be all the more sweet.

Berni
Interesting you should say that, I just got off the phone with my brother who is very intereted in all this. Unfortunately, we are separated by 2500 miiles. He's in NY, I'm here in Oakland.
Old 03-08-2013, 05:11 PM
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Hey Peter, Any updates? Have you had a chance to split the case as yet?
Old 03-08-2013, 05:25 PM
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I am in the middle of right now - 1:30PM West Coast time. Just have the thru bolts to go. Pictures later...


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