Strange sound from rebuilt engine...
#361
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Yes, I would not have made it too far. I could have wheel-barrowed it out of the street and back home!
#362
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I agree, WOW. That is generous. I may take you up on it. They would certainly be in better condition than the current set up.
having had the experience of losing three race engines, i feel for you. there is nothing like the feeling of "how much is this going to cost"? i recently converted a 3.6 1996 engine to a racing 3.8 liter. the engine had about 75k on it and was in perfect running order when disassembled. you can have the matching rods, cylinders, and pistons for $350 + shipping if interested. i have been in your place before and been nervous about "reconditioned" rods especially.
doug
doug
#363
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Mike, All good ideas. I will probably do a 'rebuild' thread. I love the idea of a parts washer but am limited on space at the moment.
Hi Peter,
Admitting that the rod bearings were missed is, to quote the LOTR, "you have shown your quality, sir - the very highest".
For some reason, I found cleaning the cam carrier/spray bars/etc a pain in the butt - would send that out if you have a good local shop.
Definitely send the crank out, get it all checked/cleaned/polished if needed, and you can now do the rods and crank at the same time. Get a stretch gauge (the ARP one is not expensive) so you can do the rod bolts exactly right, or if you are not sure of yourself now, get it done. You rods will need to be machined at the best case, but hopefully not ruined.
if you split the case, you should replace the bearing sets (mains, nose, layshaft). You will need a gasket and bearing set for the bottom end - would recommend using Wrightwood racing gaskets, they are superior.
I am sure you do this, but i would explore the Pelican parts engine rebuilding forum, lots of good info and more people are not talking about the 993 and newer engines.
I would get (if you do not have it already) a 20 gallon parts washer and fresh solvent, it will be really useful to flush out all the passages, parts, etc.
When wiping bearings/parts, I used wipes designed for the computer chip industry - no lint since they are designed for wiping wafers - I used isopropyl alcohol first to clean, then break-in paste, and assemble.
You will need an assistant when assembling the block, its much easier to have to to torque the through bolts in the 20 min you have to do all of them - is a rush!
You may want to start an engine rebuilding thread(s) like I did with lots of pictures - that would be like having a bunch of eyes to double check the work.
Cheers
Mike
Admitting that the rod bearings were missed is, to quote the LOTR, "you have shown your quality, sir - the very highest".
For some reason, I found cleaning the cam carrier/spray bars/etc a pain in the butt - would send that out if you have a good local shop.
Definitely send the crank out, get it all checked/cleaned/polished if needed, and you can now do the rods and crank at the same time. Get a stretch gauge (the ARP one is not expensive) so you can do the rod bolts exactly right, or if you are not sure of yourself now, get it done. You rods will need to be machined at the best case, but hopefully not ruined.
if you split the case, you should replace the bearing sets (mains, nose, layshaft). You will need a gasket and bearing set for the bottom end - would recommend using Wrightwood racing gaskets, they are superior.
I am sure you do this, but i would explore the Pelican parts engine rebuilding forum, lots of good info and more people are not talking about the 993 and newer engines.
I would get (if you do not have it already) a 20 gallon parts washer and fresh solvent, it will be really useful to flush out all the passages, parts, etc.
When wiping bearings/parts, I used wipes designed for the computer chip industry - no lint since they are designed for wiping wafers - I used isopropyl alcohol first to clean, then break-in paste, and assemble.
You will need an assistant when assembling the block, its much easier to have to to torque the through bolts in the 20 min you have to do all of them - is a rush!
You may want to start an engine rebuilding thread(s) like I did with lots of pictures - that would be like having a bunch of eyes to double check the work.
Cheers
Mike
#364
Addict
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A 20 gal parts washer sits on a bench, is about 20" x 24", and has a hinged lid. Without it, you are going to struggle with cleaning - and it's only around $120 or so. Buy one, use it, and then sell it on craigslist when you are done.. :-)
#365
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
OK. I will re-consider. I was thinking of the box on a stand thing. All of these one-off tools drive me nuts and they accumulate like dust. I am focusing on the must haves. The nice to haves may wait.
#366
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Here are the pics of the rods. This is representative of all six although this is Cyl. 1, the worst. You will see the point of collision/rough area is nearest to the cylinder, or 9 o'clock on 1-2-3 and 3 o'clock on 4-5-6. They feel smooth to the touch.
#369
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#371
Pro
Hi Peter
I really feel for you on this. I rebuilt my top end with my brother and a couple of times we would have done something silly if had not been for the other set of eyes. When you finally win victory will be all the more sweet.
Berni
I really feel for you on this. I rebuilt my top end with my brother and a couple of times we would have done something silly if had not been for the other set of eyes. When you finally win victory will be all the more sweet.
Berni
#372
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#373
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Interesting you should say that, I just got off the phone with my brother who is very intereted in all this. Unfortunately, we are separated by 2500 miiles. He's in NY, I'm here in Oakland.