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Strange sound from rebuilt engine...

 
Old 03-05-2013, 02:22 PM
  #346  
Allen
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First thing...bravo to you for your endurance, patience, and attitude. Second...bravo to all the knowledgeable people on here that have helped you. Lastly...I'm thrilled you found the problem. I couldn't offer any useful knowledge, so I just stayed on the sidelines...but I've read every thread on these 23 pages and have been pulling for you the whole time...and trust me when I say...I have never before read a 23 page thread in my life!

Best of luck now with the repair...I'm still pulling for you!!
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Old 03-05-2013, 02:25 PM
  #347  
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I hope y'all don't mind if I don't reply to each individual post/question from the last 12 hours or so. There are too many and I have work to do! I'll do a sum up here.

Thanks to all of you for your support and advice, PM's and phone calls. The car would be long gone if it wasn't for RL. I am committed (perhaps I should be committed ) to fixing this. I am lucky in that the top end is relatively unscathed and the bottom did not implode. Here is the plan.

1. Disassemble bottom end and clean everything.
2. Have the crank inspected, cleaned, repaired.
3. Rod inspection/repair.
4. Repair/Replace P/C's.
5. Send out oil cooler for overhaul.
6. Other bottom end stuff - seals, gaskets, dare I say bearings?
7. Pumps? What to do here?
8. What am I missing?
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Old 03-05-2013, 02:27 PM
  #348  
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Originally Posted by Allen View Post
First thing...bravo to you for your endurance, patience, and attitude. Second...bravo to all the knowledgeable people on here that have helped you. Lastly...I'm thrilled you found the problem. I couldn't offer any useful knowledge, so I just stayed on the sidelines...but I've read every thread on these 23 pages and have been pulling for you the whole time...and trust me when I say...I have never before read a 23 page thread in my life!

Best of luck now with the repair...I'm still pulling for you!!
Thanks. Maybe I will put all of this into my next book
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Old 03-05-2013, 02:28 PM
  #349  
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Originally Posted by Vorsicht View Post
8. What am I missing?
A hug. *HUGS*

Good luck!

-mb
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Old 03-05-2013, 02:44 PM
  #350  
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Originally Posted by Vorsicht View Post
I hope y'all don't mind if I don't reply to each individual post/question from the last 12 hours or so. There are too many and I have work to do! I'll do a sum up here.

Thanks to all of you for your support and advice, PM's and phone calls. The car would be long gone if it wasn't for RL. I am committed (perhaps I should be committed ) to fixing this. I am lucky in that the top end is relatively unscathed and the bottom did not implode. Here is the plan.

1. Disassemble bottom end and clean everything.
2. Have the crank inspected, cleaned, repaired.
3. Rod inspection/repair.
4. Repair/Replace P/C's.
5. Send out oil cooler for overhaul.
6. Other bottom end stuff - seals, gaskets, dare I say bearings?
7. Pumps? What to do here?
8. What am I missing?
Good Plan, all that I would add.

Remove and clean Oil Tank, Thermostat
Clean all oil lines
Rest and drink _______ (Insert beverage of choice)
Clean, Clean, Clean, Clean - Case and cam housings are important, remove oil galley's, piston squirter's and cam spray bar. This can be does yourself or outsourced. I would personally out source as for the price it is not worth the hassle (especially the squirter's)

Oil pump can be taken apart and cleaned and inspected. The tolerances/clearance in the pumps are very exacting and any damage would require a replacement. Most will recommend a replacement pump.
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Old 03-05-2013, 02:47 PM
  #351  
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Oh one other thing.

As the cams and rockers may not have fully bedded in, I would speak to Steve W on his recommendation. They may need to be re hardened and then run in again, not sure.

Good luck Peter, we are all here to help.
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Old 03-05-2013, 02:53 PM
  #352  
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Originally Posted by trophy View Post
Good Plan, all that I would add.

Remove and clean Oil Tank, Thermostat
Clean all oil lines
Rest and drink _______ (Insert beverage of choice)
Clean, Clean, Clean, Clean - Case and cam housings are important, remove oil galley's, piston squirter's and cam spray bar. This can be does yourself or outsourced. I would personally out source as for the price it is not worth the hassle (especially the squirter's)

Oil pump can be taken apart and cleaned and inspected. The tolerances/clearance in the pumps are very exacting and any damage would require a replacement. Most will recommend a replacement pump.
Like trophy said, clean, clean, clean. Take apart the cam housing and clean or reverse flow the oil spray plugs. Debris can collect there, clog the oil spray, and kill your engine again.
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Old 03-05-2013, 03:04 PM
  #353  
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Virtual Bearings


Peter,
Glad you found the issue. Pics coming later today.


Andreas
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Old 03-05-2013, 03:04 PM
  #354  
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Hi Peter,

Admitting that the rod bearings were missed is, to quote the LOTR, "you have shown your quality, sir - the very highest".

For some reason, I found cleaning the cam carrier/spray bars/etc a pain in the butt - would send that out if you have a good local shop.

Definitely send the crank out, get it all checked/cleaned/polished if needed, and you can now do the rods and crank at the same time. Get a stretch gauge (the ARP one is not expensive) so you can do the rod bolts exactly right, or if you are not sure of yourself now, get it done. You rods will need to be machined at the best case, but hopefully not ruined.

if you split the case, you should replace the bearing sets (mains, nose, layshaft). You will need a gasket and bearing set for the bottom end - would recommend using Wrightwood racing gaskets, they are superior.

I am sure you do this, but i would explore the Pelican parts engine rebuilding forum, lots of good info and more people are not talking about the 993 and newer engines.

I would get (if you do not have it already) a 20 gallon parts washer and fresh solvent, it will be really useful to flush out all the passages, parts, etc.

When wiping bearings/parts, I used wipes designed for the computer chip industry - no lint since they are designed for wiping wafers - I used isopropyl alcohol first to clean, then break-in paste, and assemble.

You will need an assistant when assembling the block, its much easier to have to to torque the through bolts in the 20 min you have to do all of them - is a rush!

You may want to start an engine rebuilding thread(s) like I did with lots of pictures - that would be like having a bunch of eyes to double check the work.

Cheers

Mike
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Old 03-05-2013, 04:08 PM
  #355  
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Originally Posted by mattjb View Post
A hug. *HUGS*

Good luck!

-mb
Thank You
Return Hugs *HUGS*
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Old 03-05-2013, 04:48 PM
  #356  
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Hi Peter,

I know it's painful, but I would be curious to see how the rod and crank surfaces look -> you taking pictures?

Cheers,

Mike
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Old 03-05-2013, 05:24 PM
  #357  
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Glad you figured it out Peter. Good thing you didn't take the advice given to drive it around!

I really have to say you have taken all of this so well (publicly anyway). I would not be so calm.

Keep up the good work. You will be a 993 engine expert here shortly.
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Old 03-05-2013, 06:31 PM
  #358  
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having had the experience of losing three race engines, i feel for you. there is nothing like the feeling of "how much is this going to cost"? i recently converted a 3.6 1996 engine to a racing 3.8 liter. the engine had about 75k on it and was in perfect running order when disassembled. you can have the matching rods, cylinders, and pistons for $350 + shipping if interested. i have been in your place before and been nervous about "reconditioned" rods especially.

doug
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Old 03-05-2013, 06:39 PM
  #359  
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Wow, that is a stinking good deal and very nice offer! Great stuff Doug!
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Old 03-05-2013, 06:50 PM
  #360  
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Yes, On my list.

Originally Posted by Mike J View Post
Hi Peter,

I know it's painful, but I would be curious to see how the rod and crank surfaces look -> you taking pictures?

Cheers,

Mike
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