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Best garage floor coating?? Chime in please!

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Old 01-01-2013, 12:12 PM
  #16  
RJT
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We've had Spanish Tile (terrible), Vinyl Tile (it was okay but higher maintenance as Chuck said above) and Indoor / Outdoor Carpeting. Believe it or not, for us, the carpeting was the best for us, BUT we lived in the desert of Southern California and we didn't have the weather issues that you'd have where you live.
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Old 01-01-2013, 12:39 PM
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S98CS
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If you live in canada
the best advice should you use either epoxy or urethane.
Cut a groove under the garage door in the cement and grind back a small amount so the product does not go outside the garage it gives it a termination , to protect from delaminating.
Old 01-01-2013, 01:21 PM
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Ocean Blue C2S
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I put a two-coat epoxy on my floor now about 15 years ago and it is chipping off badly, my friend a professional builder told me the reason is that the floor should have been sand-blasted first for the epoxy to bond properly... so I'm with the group that says have it profesionally done!

Especiaily if you drive into the garage with salt on your tires!!! That has destroyed the surface in parking structures here downtown Calgary...

Good Luck,

Bert
Old 01-01-2013, 01:22 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Chris from Cali
. It was expensive but the end result feels well worth it...
What storage hoist is that one?
Old 01-01-2013, 01:23 PM
  #20  
matt777
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I did the Behr 2 part epoxy about 5 years ago. I have a working garage that sees a lot of restoration work including welding and grinding as well as the in and out traffic of my wife's car in the winter ( I did buy a parking mat for her car). The floor has stood up pretty well with not too many battle scars. I put it down on new concrete and it was around $200 and a half days work. You can spend a lot more but I wouldn't bother if you have a working garage. You can add a non slip agent with I did. It works well.
Old 01-01-2013, 01:30 PM
  #21  
IXLR8
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Originally Posted by Ocean Blue C2S
...the floor should have been sand-blasted first for the epoxy to bond properly...
The product I used instructed the applicator to lay down a primer coat first which was 1/2 epoxy and 1/2 thinner. That primer coat being thinner soaked into the concrete very well.

The floor was first etched with muriatic acid...wear a mask with acid filters and make sure the garage is well vented by leaving the garage door open.

As far as long term, nothing is air or water tight. The salt will make it through the epoxy sooner or later. That is why my garage is for my toys...daily drivers stay outside.
Old 01-01-2013, 01:42 PM
  #22  
pp000830
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DIY Floor finishing that lasts has mostly to do with the quality of the concrete under the coating.
Some concrete floors dust up a lot or have moisture under them and so are probably not well suited to DIY coating.
My feeling is in most cases a clear sealer may be best as to touch it up over time is not an issue.
Some professionally applied poured out (thick emulsion) floors are really great. They are used in laboratories and industrial applications, they cost more and I do not believe they are DIY products.
Andy
Old 01-01-2013, 01:48 PM
  #23  
jdistefa
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just did U-coat
pretty happy with the results
about $1 per sq foot
will see how it holds up....
Old 01-01-2013, 03:11 PM
  #24  
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Sand blasting is Taboo to much flying silica
you would never see the end of it.

You need a concrete grinder with attached vac
Large walk behind machine
this is what the pros use

I give out contracts to floor finishers all the time for custom home garages
I do not do this type of work myself
Seen many applications
Old 01-01-2013, 03:21 PM
  #25  
s2racer
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I used a group called Trademark Garage Floors in Clearwater FLA. They use something called polyaspartic coating (HP Spartacote is the trade name I believe). Somehow different and stronger that the epoxy coatings. The best news is the installation required only 4 hours to complete and put the car in, versus the few days to fully cure an epoxy floor. The preparation of the concrete is the most critical step though.
Old 01-01-2013, 05:08 PM
  #26  
Chris from Cali
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Originally Posted by s2racer
I used a group called Trademark Garage Floors in Clearwater FLA. They use something called polyaspartic coating (HP Spartacote is the trade name I believe). Somehow different and stronger that the epoxy coatings. The best news is the installation required only 4 hours to complete and put the car in, versus the few days to fully cure an epoxy floor. The preparation of the concrete is the most critical step though.
Polyaspartic is similar to what I have (polyurea). It's the way to go if you have a lot of spills, salt, etc. on the surface. I was originally going to do polished/stained concrete, but it would get destroyed by the crud from our roads.


Originally Posted by trophy
What storage hoist is that one?
It's from Harding Steel.

http://www.hardingsteel.com/carlifts.shtml
Old 01-01-2013, 08:26 PM
  #27  
rsa964
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Default Garage floor

Professionally done. Floor was previously painted - walk behind sander - 3 stain colors - clear coat.
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Old 01-01-2013, 10:54 PM
  #28  
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I'm another one who use U Coat it and would recommend it. Aluminum oxide is used to prevent slips. I didn't use the top clear coat but should have for a more glossy look. I put it down 6 years ago and no chipping or peeling. I've dropped wrenches and hammers (not intentionally) with no ill effects.
Old 01-02-2013, 11:16 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Chris from Cali
Polyaspartic is similar to what I have (polyurea). It's the way to go if you have a lot of spills, salt, etc. on the surface. I was originally going to do polished/stained concrete, but it would get destroyed by the crud from our roads.




It's from Harding Steel.

http://www.hardingsteel.com/carlifts.shtml
Thanks Chris...
Old 01-02-2013, 11:22 AM
  #30  
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I used the Rhino Epoxy that was on sale as Costco. My dad and I applied it to the garage floor about a week before moving into my new house (virgin concrete, new construction) and it has been awesome. Its all in the prep!


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