Suspension arm issue
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Suspension arm issue
While getting an alignment, we noticed there is some damage to the arm where the toe link connect. Because there is a small chunk of the arm missing, I am only allowed certain adjustment and unable to align the car the way I want. I assume the only fix is to replace the whole arm? Are there other options?
Passenger side rear arm
Another view clearly showing the missing chunk
Passenger side rear arm
Another view clearly showing the missing chunk
#2
I would replace that.
I'm sure you could find someone to weld and machine it, but it wouldn't make sense due to the price I usually see them on eBay for.
Edit: that's a big chunk, you will need another one
Another option would be Tarret arms, they are designed to adjust from the arm, not the eccentric
Edit: tarett http://www.tarett.com/items/993-964-...lnk-detail.htm
I'm sure you could find someone to weld and machine it, but it wouldn't make sense due to the price I usually see them on eBay for.
Edit: that's a big chunk, you will need another one
Another option would be Tarret arms, they are designed to adjust from the arm, not the eccentric
Edit: tarett http://www.tarett.com/items/993-964-...lnk-detail.htm
Last edited by CalvinC4S; 11-24-2012 at 04:38 AM.
#5
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
It seems the part that is broken would not account for the lack of the range of adjustment. Is somthing else bent. Several web sites have a diagnostic sequence to help you ID the additional; bent components.
Andy
Andy
#6
Yeah its the wall that pushes the K toe out when turning the eccentric bolt.
I'm curious how it would have broke? A lateral hit to wheel could have done that or ???
I have never used Terett, but I'm pretty sure they bypass that form of adjustment.
I'm curious how it would have broke? A lateral hit to wheel could have done that or ???
I have never used Terett, but I'm pretty sure they bypass that form of adjustment.
#7
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Nothing else is bent but I have no idea how the PO broke this piece as well. Looking at the Tarett rods but came across all the links that Rennline offers. What's the difference?
Rennline stuff - http://www.rennline.com/Rear-Toe-Cam...2E12%2E41%2E5/
Rennline stuff - http://www.rennline.com/Rear-Toe-Cam...2E12%2E41%2E5/
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#8
Nothing else is bent but I have no idea how the PO broke this piece as well. Looking at the Tarett rods but came across all the links that Rennline offers. What's the difference?
Rennline stuff - http://www.rennline.com/Rear-Toe-Cam...2E12%2E41%2E5/
Rennline stuff - http://www.rennline.com/Rear-Toe-Cam...2E12%2E41%2E5/
you need one of the side members, labled subframe here
part #
993.331.051.01 /L
993.331.052.01 /R
or the equivalent RS parts if you do both sides
993.331.051.80 /L
993.331.052.80 /R
#9
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Bill, thanks for the info...I looked on Pelican and its over $1100 per side! I'll probably just stick to the Tarett links to get more adjustment for now
#10
#12
daedton is parting a car, I'd start there.
https://rennlist.com/forums/for-sale...ossmember.html (yes I realize that's not exactly the right part...)
https://rennlist.com/forums/for-sale...ossmember.html (yes I realize that's not exactly the right part...)
#14
Race Car
That sidemember needs to be replaced, no if's and's or but's.
I personally wouldn't drive it until it was fixed. As some stage this has taken quite a lateral hit high on the wheel (Above the hub) I would guess that how ever that occured a wheel would have had to be replaced when that happened.
I personally wouldn't drive it until it was fixed. As some stage this has taken quite a lateral hit high on the wheel (Above the hub) I would guess that how ever that occured a wheel would have had to be replaced when that happened.
#15
Instructor
One thing to mention if you go to Rennline or Tarrett links is the use of a centering washer that eliminates the adjustment slot. Square washer with a hole constraining the adjustment to take place in the links rod ends. With whats left of the lug the washer will work with the current casting.
Since the lug and bolt eccentric do not take the full load, much taken by the clamping force of the bolt with the eccentric holding static position. But I have had mine move so the bolt clamping is only so good and depending on where the cam position is it can "unroll". It is something that needs to be replaced or if you can't find a reasonable one welded up. I would have no issue with it being welded were it mine since I would be welding it. The casting looks clean, not oil soaked, so it will repair fine. Key is if you go that route it needs to be someone that can competently weld cast aluminum.
Rick
Since the lug and bolt eccentric do not take the full load, much taken by the clamping force of the bolt with the eccentric holding static position. But I have had mine move so the bolt clamping is only so good and depending on where the cam position is it can "unroll". It is something that needs to be replaced or if you can't find a reasonable one welded up. I would have no issue with it being welded were it mine since I would be welding it. The casting looks clean, not oil soaked, so it will repair fine. Key is if you go that route it needs to be someone that can competently weld cast aluminum.
Rick