Engine Compartment Pad - Sound Absorber
#33
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I replaced the pad on my car with the OE pad 4 years ago. The edge of the replacement pad has cracks in it now. I would go for an aftermarket pad that does not have this issue. Alternatively one could enhance the pad on the underside of the rear shelf cover inside the vehicle and possibly get rid of the pad in the engine compartment completely. Another alternative would be to cut the pad back a little so it does not extend all the way over the top of the engine. Both of these options would also make servicing the idle valve and the intake somewhat easier.
Just some thoughts.
Andy
Just some thoughts.
Andy
#34
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
And after ordering my OEM Porsche pad and being disappointed that it is not of the same construction as the pad that came out of my 1995, I ordered the Deluxe Engine Sound pad from Bob at Appbiz. They are also listed on ebay.
I chose it after seeing and installing one in another car.
Laying the Deluxe pad over the Porsche pad, they are 100% identical in size/shape.
I chose it after seeing and installing one in another car.
Laying the Deluxe pad over the Porsche pad, they are 100% identical in size/shape.
#36
Three Wheelin'
Pix...
#39
I have been looking into flame resistant faux leather and FR stitching but I also wonder if Singer only used a regular faux (or real) leather with regular stitching? I'm asking this because of the heat issue above the engine. Would the leather go bad (assumed glued and held with OEM plastic pins) and the stitching hold in time?
#40
#41
Drifting
I thought about using some aluminum edging material to help hold up the sound material and clean the edge. I did not find what I needed until I decided to use ABS angle. I bought black window shutter trim that dresses up the outside house windows. This was long enough to reach all the way across the engine bay. I cut the shutter on a table saw to create a angle strip where one leg was long enough to cover the exposed sound proofing edge. The other leg to reach past the leading edge. The two ends were heated by a hot air gun and bent to better match the curve of the car. Drilled the stud holes and installed using the push on disks. It came out very well. Pix...
#43
Rennlist Member
I thought about using some aluminum edging material to help hold up the sound material and clean the edge. I did not find what I needed until I decided to use ABS angle. I bought black window shutter trim that dresses up the outside house windows. This was long enough to reach all the way across the engine bay. I cut the shutter on a table saw to create a angle strip where one leg was long enough to cover the exposed sound proofing edge. The other leg to reach past the leading edge. The two ends were heated by a hot air gun and bent to better match the curve of the car. Drilled the stud holes and installed using the push on disks. It came out very well.
Pix...
Pix...
#45
I found this thread very helpful when I recently replaced my engine pad, so I wanted to post a few updates since this thread was last active. There's a very long write-up on my blog http://twofourthsfull.blogspot.com/2...placement.html, but here's a summary of the really useful information.
- I bought the AppBiz Ultimate Engine Sound Pad and it appears very well made. Pelican Parts carries it now.
- Punching holes for the body studs in this pad is VERY difficult using mechanical means. I found using a pencil style soldering iron burned clean holes very easily. Just take proper precautions to avoid the fumes produced.
- I finished off the install with the Pad Keeper from David Etter (http://thepadkeeper.com/). I like the clean look of the Pad Keeper, it hides the two color nature of the pad, and I hope it will keep the pad in good shape for a very long time.
Here's a picture of it all finished. Note that not all the body studs actually had buttons on them in the factory installation on my '96 993. I didn't pay attention to this and burned holes for all the body studs, so I installed some extra buttons (13 vs OEM 10). I think at least one or two of these extra studs were used for the '95 model AC line bracket.
- I bought the AppBiz Ultimate Engine Sound Pad and it appears very well made. Pelican Parts carries it now.
- Punching holes for the body studs in this pad is VERY difficult using mechanical means. I found using a pencil style soldering iron burned clean holes very easily. Just take proper precautions to avoid the fumes produced.
- I finished off the install with the Pad Keeper from David Etter (http://thepadkeeper.com/). I like the clean look of the Pad Keeper, it hides the two color nature of the pad, and I hope it will keep the pad in good shape for a very long time.
Here's a picture of it all finished. Note that not all the body studs actually had buttons on them in the factory installation on my '96 993. I didn't pay attention to this and burned holes for all the body studs, so I installed some extra buttons (13 vs OEM 10). I think at least one or two of these extra studs were used for the '95 model AC line bracket.