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Engine Compartment Pad - Sound Absorber

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Old 11-11-2014, 12:25 PM
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deactivateduser66
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I was wondering if I could find a plastic yellow (or red) strip to use over the air filter as well?

Old 11-11-2014, 03:38 PM
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vincer77
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Then there is also this option

Old 11-11-2014, 05:10 PM
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pp000830
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I replaced the pad on my car with the OE pad 4 years ago. The edge of the replacement pad has cracks in it now. I would go for an aftermarket pad that does not have this issue. Alternatively one could enhance the pad on the underside of the rear shelf cover inside the vehicle and possibly get rid of the pad in the engine compartment completely. Another alternative would be to cut the pad back a little so it does not extend all the way over the top of the engine. Both of these options would also make servicing the idle valve and the intake somewhat easier.
Just some thoughts.
Andy
Old 11-11-2014, 06:40 PM
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IXLR8
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Originally Posted by Kmassed002
I just ordered the ultimate pad from Appbiz for $129.
And after ordering my OEM Porsche pad and being disappointed that it is not of the same construction as the pad that came out of my 1995, I ordered the Deluxe Engine Sound pad from Bob at Appbiz. They are also listed on ebay.

I chose it after seeing and installing one in another car.

Laying the Deluxe pad over the Porsche pad, they are 100% identical in size/shape.
Old 11-11-2014, 07:55 PM
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x50type
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!'' aluminum securing strip was about $2.50 from Lowe's. Used original hardware.
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Old 11-11-2014, 08:44 PM
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mr_bock
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Originally Posted by dsmyth
You also might want to trim the leading edge of the foil backing back a bit with some scissors as it tends to stick out a bit. If you want a clean edge.
I thought about using some aluminum edging material to help hold up the sound material and clean the edge. I did not find what I needed until I decided to use ABS angle. I bought black window shutter trim that dresses up the outside house windows. This was long enough to reach all the way across the engine bay. I cut the shutter on a table saw to create a angle strip where one leg was long enough to cover the exposed sound proofing edge. The other leg to reach past the leading edge. The two ends were heated by a hot air gun and bent to better match the curve of the car. Drilled the stud holes and installed using the push on disks. It came out very well.
Pix...
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Old 11-11-2014, 08:44 PM
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KBell
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Removed it many years ago.
Love the clean look and alittle more engine sound.
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Old 11-11-2014, 08:47 PM
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KBell
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One more pic because we all love pictures
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Old 11-12-2014, 08:39 AM
  #39  
deactivateduser66
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Originally Posted by vincer77
Then there is also this option

I have been looking into flame resistant faux leather and FR stitching but I also wonder if Singer only used a regular faux (or real) leather with regular stitching? I'm asking this because of the heat issue above the engine. Would the leather go bad (assumed glued and held with OEM plastic pins) and the stitching hold in time?
Old 11-12-2014, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by KBell
Removed it many years ago.
Love the clean look and alittle more engine sound.


Have you simply painted the plastic intake manifolds? How would it hold against heat and weather conditions? I would want to take the same route.
Old 11-12-2014, 08:46 AM
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ble2011
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Originally Posted by mr_bock
I thought about using some aluminum edging material to help hold up the sound material and clean the edge. I did not find what I needed until I decided to use ABS angle. I bought black window shutter trim that dresses up the outside house windows. This was long enough to reach all the way across the engine bay. I cut the shutter on a table saw to create a angle strip where one leg was long enough to cover the exposed sound proofing edge. The other leg to reach past the leading edge. The two ends were heated by a hot air gun and bent to better match the curve of the car. Drilled the stud holes and installed using the push on disks. It came out very well. Pix...
This looks really nice and clean. Mine was replaced when I bought and it had a black smooth hard edge to it. But the mechanic I took it to replace the shocks broke the leading edge in several places. I'm thinking I should do this as well.
Old 11-12-2014, 06:11 PM
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KBell
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I just removed the intake and took it to a body shot to paint it.
This is the cold side of the engine, so now problems with peeling, fading, etc
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Old 11-12-2014, 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by mr_bock
I thought about using some aluminum edging material to help hold up the sound material and clean the edge. I did not find what I needed until I decided to use ABS angle. I bought black window shutter trim that dresses up the outside house windows. This was long enough to reach all the way across the engine bay. I cut the shutter on a table saw to create a angle strip where one leg was long enough to cover the exposed sound proofing edge. The other leg to reach past the leading edge. The two ends were heated by a hot air gun and bent to better match the curve of the car. Drilled the stud holes and installed using the push on disks. It came out very well.
Pix...
That looks pretty good. Where did you get that black trim material?
Old 12-05-2014, 02:27 PM
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Got the deluxe pad from SMC, the guys over there are all aces at customer service and shipment! FYI! And the pad looks pretty sturdy, much better than the OEM version.
Old 10-29-2016, 07:10 PM
  #45  
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I found this thread very helpful when I recently replaced my engine pad, so I wanted to post a few updates since this thread was last active. There's a very long write-up on my blog http://twofourthsfull.blogspot.com/2...placement.html, but here's a summary of the really useful information.

- I bought the AppBiz Ultimate Engine Sound Pad and it appears very well made. Pelican Parts carries it now.
- Punching holes for the body studs in this pad is VERY difficult using mechanical means. I found using a pencil style soldering iron burned clean holes very easily. Just take proper precautions to avoid the fumes produced.
- I finished off the install with the Pad Keeper from David Etter (http://thepadkeeper.com/). I like the clean look of the Pad Keeper, it hides the two color nature of the pad, and I hope it will keep the pad in good shape for a very long time.

Here's a picture of it all finished. Note that not all the body studs actually had buttons on them in the factory installation on my '96 993. I didn't pay attention to this and burned holes for all the body studs, so I installed some extra buttons (13 vs OEM 10). I think at least one or two of these extra studs were used for the '95 model AC line bracket.






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