axl911

Car will run without it. Without the Hall sensor (that's what it's called), the engine will retard timing on all 6 cyl instead of the one detecting knock.

Mike J

You are lucky my friend and ahead of me, my wife says "Get a brain!!"

Mike J

The reason I asked for a light is to double check the spark is at the right time, i.e happens with the correct marker on the pulley. If you read the long threads, I suggested to Travis to mark each of the three marks with a different color, and then go to each piston and make sure it fires on the right time. this checks the sensors, distributor, lines, ecu, etc. Its easier with a timing light to see if the marker is hit on the pulley.

Cheers,

Mike

jscott82

wait... we haven't done that yet? if not, I'll bet a case of Schlitz that is the problem

IXLR8

Mike, I'm used to seeing a couple of marks on a pulley...back in the old days. A TDC mark, a timing mark and an advance mark.

What mark is on our pulleys and if it is TDC, would it spark there? It usually would a few degrees BTDC.

TravisB

I have no reason to believe it is (#1 is firing exactly as it should, distributor was never removed, I've checked the wires about 20 times now, I've got pics showing that, at the bare minimum, 1-3 are wired exactly as they were before it was removed, etc), but if that really is the problem, I will just go ahead and ban myself! After the Schlitz, of course..

jscott82

I did go back and watch your video, but refuse to drag through the whole other thread... sorry...

What is not mentioned here (maybe in the other thread).... From the video you can hear a cyl or 2 firing, and see puffs of smoke, so its firing.... its gotta GOTTA be timing...

Probably redundant, but Ill type it anyway.. disconnect the secondary coil (so only one is firing to keep it simple) then check each each cyl with a timing light..... I will send you a case of Schlitz if they all fire correctly.... Well I cant actually send beer across the border but if you are ever in Charlotte I'll buy a round...

edit: its important to disconnect the second coil... the problem could be the secondary ignition circuit. Since its not needed to start the car, remove it from the equation temporarily.

race911

I really hate to see this continuing, but I'll got back to square one and suggest something that HAS brought resolution in the past. Or rather resignation. It makes no sense, as unless I missed something along the way, this engine was not touched in the cam timing area. BUT you plug in a compression tester and see where the needle bounces in relation to firing. In other words, when you're coming up on TDC #1, you'd better see that compression needle move. Once you know absolutely, positively compression is: 1. there, 2. happening at the right time, it's all downhill. May not seem like it, but it all flows from internal engine health.

Really hate to see this happen. As jammed as I am for time, if I were anywhere within reasonable driving distance I'd come over. Or haul the car over here. But the car would have to compete for affection with a bunch of vending machines encroaching on car space.............

Jacke2c

Did you have your injectors rebuilt during the flywheel changeout?

UserA

First off hang in there buddy. I have been more turned around on far easier jobs. I can not think of anything other than the Injectors, unless quoting slingblade - "Ders no gas in it"

techman1

Travis,

Upon engine removal, did you do any wiring cleanups? Any extra wires in the dash area? Just another WAG, any old alarm systems that were bypassed and you removed those wires. Any extra wires to the coils or amplifier in engine compartment? Anything in front trunk/fuse box?

TravisB

Well ladies and gentlemen, I think we have a clue! GC96 dropped by to give me a hand again tonight, and he brought some toys like a timing light and a compression tester.

Up first was the timing: Everything is gravy, verified by the light and I also pulled the caps and turned the engine over by hand.

Second was the compression test. Hoping for a bad gauge, we tested 1-3 several times, and then went out to his car which tested at around 150 PSI.

#1: 0 PSI
#2: 35 PSI
#3: 25 PSI

#4: 0 PSI
#5: 95 PSI
#6: 85 PSI

Now about those Schlitzeses...

techman1

Now the question is why.

Can't believe all those valves are sticking open. SO that leaves it can't suck in because something is blocking the intake passages?

techman1

Time to remove the intake manifold?

jscott82

WTF ???? Ken called it... but how the hell did that happen?

Ill step up to bud for this one :-) ...

Hopefully its something simple, but I cant imagine what...