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-   -   Frustrated! SAI DIY - dead end?? (https://rennlist.com/forums/993-forum/664501-frustrated-sai-diy-dead-end.html)

maestromaestro 11-10-2011 08:20 PM

Frustrated! SAI DIY - dead end??
 
:banghead::banghead::banghead:

I have read quite a few DIY write-ups on cleaning out the SAI. So, I took the plunge, got all the parts made and/or purchased, took off the heat exchangers, all that stuff....

Seems that one of the cylinder's ports is much as the one on the cylinder closest to the check valve, which blows air through.

I tried pushing cleaner from below and from above; tried plugging up the cylinders with drain stoppers; I tried just about anything and everything... Nothing.

Any ideas from anyone????

Quite, quite frustrated. About to give up. :crying::crying::crying:

MarkD 11-10-2011 08:40 PM

use a bicycle brake cable chucked in a drill
approximately 5" piece until you get through the turn.
then use a 10" piece to get further in

the majority of the build up is at the turn, where the head meets the cam tower.

don't give up!!!

PS - be ready for a black, chemical mess to rain down when you bust break through

Mike Pezely 11-10-2011 09:34 PM


Originally Posted by MarkD (Post 9015057)
use a bicycle brake cable chucked in a drill
approximately 5" piece until you get through the turn.
then use a 10" piece to get further in

the majority of the build up is at the turn, where the head meets the cam tower.

don't give up!!!

PS - be ready for a black, chemical mess to rain down when you bust break through

Mark, do you and Darrin do this SAI clean out at your shop? If so can you ballpark a price? (no SAI now but you never know)

maestromaestro 11-10-2011 09:50 PM


Originally Posted by MarkD (Post 9015057)
use a bicycle brake cable chucked in a drill
approximately 5" piece until you get through the turn.
then use a 10" piece to get further in

the majority of the build up is at the turn, where the head meets the cam tower.

don't give up!!!

PS - be ready for a black, chemical mess to rain down when you bust break through


Thanks for the encouragement, Mark. Yep, I did get the bicycle brake cable and tried drilling "up there". Cumbersome, that's for sure. But, perhaps not persistent enough - nothing seems to push it through.... :mad::mad:

What's areasonable "expected drilling time"? The blockage appears to be present in all ports - even the one that actually passes through solvent and air... I suspect that something is wrong with my technique??? Tried spraying solvent from below as well - bupkes.

Mike J 11-10-2011 10:10 PM

Use the electronic method, or repipe the air pump to inject into the exhaust. Both take a bit of work, but you will not have to worry about this ever again.

Cheers,

Mike

skl2 11-10-2011 10:19 PM

I just did this procedure and its all about the cable. I found that a brake cable with the insulator still on worked best. Make sure the cable comes out of the insulation about 3 inches, so when you stick it up the ports, the insulation keeps the cable from bunching up. Basically, you stick the insulation up the hole, then slide the cable thru it and only spin the cable....so the cable is spinning inside the insulation which is jammed into the port. This allowed me to break thru the carbon much easier, and kept the cable from fraying and bunching up.

Some ports take a few tries at 5 min per port. Some, after being soaked for a few hours, are already pretty gummy and the black crap just runs out all over right away. Keep at it..you will know when you free it up.

MarkD 11-10-2011 10:20 PM


Originally Posted by maestromaestro (Post 9015206)
Thanks for the encouragement, Mark. Yep, I did get the bicycle brake cable and tried drilling "up there". Cumbersome, that's for sure. But, perhaps not persistent enough - nothing seems to push it through.... :mad::mad:

What's areasonable "expected drilling time"? The blockage appears to be present in all ports - even the one that actually passes through solvent and air... I suspect that something is wrong with my technique??? Tried spraying solvent from below as well - bupkes.

you are coming up the small sai port on the back side of the exh valve, right?

you just put pressure on the cable as you drill, back off a little, pressure on, etc.
usually only takes a few minutes to break through. Then it is a matter of making the opening larger.
a shorter piece allows you to push a bit harder.

MarkD 11-10-2011 10:26 PM


Originally Posted by Mike Pezely (Post 9015170)
Mark, do you and Darrin do this SAI clean out at your shop? If so can you ballpark a price? (no SAI now but you never know)

yes
fun job... :)
right around $800
that covers everything needed (gaskets, SAI check valve, new end hardware, etc.)

jimbo3 11-10-2011 10:29 PM


Originally Posted by Mike J (Post 9015252)
Use the electronic method, or repipe the air pump to inject into the exhaust. Both take a bit of work, but you will not have to worry about this ever again.

Cheers,

Mike

What is the electronic method? Hadn't heard of that one, yet.

maestromaestro 11-10-2011 10:35 PM


Originally Posted by MarkD (Post 9015057)
use a bicycle brake cable chucked in a drill
approximately 5" piece until you get through the turn.
then use a 10" piece to get further in

the majority of the build up is at the turn, where the head meets the cam tower.

don't give up!!!

PS - be ready for a black, chemical mess to rain down when you bust break through


Originally Posted by MarkD (Post 9015288)
you are coming up the small sai port on the back side of the exh valve, right?

you just put pressure on the cable as you drill, back off a little, pressure on, etc.
usually only takes a few minutes to break through. Then it is a matter of making the opening larger.
a shorter piece allows you to push a bit harder.


Originally Posted by skl2 (Post 9015280)
I just did this procedure and its all about the cable. I found that a brake cable with the insulator still on worked best. Make sure the cable comes out of the insulation about 3 inches, so when you stick it up the ports, the insulation keeps the cable from bunching up. Basically, you stick the insulation up the hole, then slide the cable thru it and only spin the cable....so the cable is spinning inside the insulation which is jammed into the port. This allowed me to break thru the carbon much easier, and kept the cable from fraying and bunching up.

Some ports take a few tries at 5 min per port. Some, after being soaked for a few hours, are already pretty gummy and the black crap just runs out all over right away. Keep at it..you will know when you free it up.

Guys, thanks. That's pretty much what I have been trying to use - a brake cable with the sheath. And, yes, about 2 inches or so that's all it was protruding.

Mark, I think that is where I am sticking it into... But it just meets dead resistance (my guess in the turn). I will attempt to persist... When I sprayed solvent in the check valve port and blew it out (well, attempted to), the ONLY port that showed dripping was the one closest to the check valve. And even there, I could not snake the wire (not drill) past the turn... I think I am doing something wrong (very likely)...

Also - some ports (when I took the xchangers off) looked dry and some "not dry" (dark deposits vs. gray ones). Is that of any significance??

[Sorry to bunch up things]

MarkD 11-10-2011 10:58 PM

with the sheath?
never tried that... Just the center cable
bare

that might be the problem
it needs to curve a bit
the outer casing may prevent that

Mike J 11-10-2011 11:03 PM

This link to my site may help a bit to see the passages, and how they are NOT straight, but take an angle turn at the interface of the heads and the cam towers. Not pretty for reaming.....

http://www.pcarworkshop.com/index.ph...e_SAI_passages

Cheers,

Mike

GRINBOB 11-11-2011 12:07 AM

SAI Circuit board.
 

Originally Posted by jimbo3 (Post 9015310)
What is the electronic method? Hadn't heard of that one, yet.

Search "SAI Circuit"

maestromaestro 11-11-2011 12:39 AM


Originally Posted by Mike J (Post 9015391)
This link to my site may help a bit to see the passages, and how they are NOT straight, but take an angle turn at the interface of the heads and the cam towers. Not pretty for reaming.....

http://www.pcarworkshop.com/index.ph...e_SAI_passages

Cheers,

Mike

Thanks, Mike. I used your DIY write up to get things done. Except that I obviously did not accomplish (yet) what I had set out to do...

maestromaestro 11-11-2011 12:41 AM


Originally Posted by MarkD (Post 9015379)
with the sheath?
never tried that... Just the center cable
bare

that might be the problem
it needs to curve a bit
the outer casing may prevent that

The casing does not exactly prevent it from bending. I have a few inches of wire sticking out - it sort of firms up the whole thing, so the wire does not bend - and, as i said, i just hit the turn and can't get through the dang thing!!!!!


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