Frustrated! SAI DIY - dead end??
:banghead::banghead::banghead:
I have read quite a few DIY write-ups on cleaning out the SAI. So, I took the plunge, got all the parts made and/or purchased, took off the heat exchangers, all that stuff.... Seems that one of the cylinder's ports is much as the one on the cylinder closest to the check valve, which blows air through. I tried pushing cleaner from below and from above; tried plugging up the cylinders with drain stoppers; I tried just about anything and everything... Nothing. Any ideas from anyone???? Quite, quite frustrated. About to give up. :crying::crying::crying: |
use a bicycle brake cable chucked in a drill
approximately 5" piece until you get through the turn. then use a 10" piece to get further in the majority of the build up is at the turn, where the head meets the cam tower. don't give up!!! PS - be ready for a black, chemical mess to rain down when you bust break through |
Originally Posted by MarkD
(Post 9015057)
use a bicycle brake cable chucked in a drill
approximately 5" piece until you get through the turn. then use a 10" piece to get further in the majority of the build up is at the turn, where the head meets the cam tower. don't give up!!! PS - be ready for a black, chemical mess to rain down when you bust break through |
Originally Posted by MarkD
(Post 9015057)
use a bicycle brake cable chucked in a drill
approximately 5" piece until you get through the turn. then use a 10" piece to get further in the majority of the build up is at the turn, where the head meets the cam tower. don't give up!!! PS - be ready for a black, chemical mess to rain down when you bust break through Thanks for the encouragement, Mark. Yep, I did get the bicycle brake cable and tried drilling "up there". Cumbersome, that's for sure. But, perhaps not persistent enough - nothing seems to push it through.... :mad::mad: What's areasonable "expected drilling time"? The blockage appears to be present in all ports - even the one that actually passes through solvent and air... I suspect that something is wrong with my technique??? Tried spraying solvent from below as well - bupkes. |
Use the electronic method, or repipe the air pump to inject into the exhaust. Both take a bit of work, but you will not have to worry about this ever again.
Cheers, Mike |
I just did this procedure and its all about the cable. I found that a brake cable with the insulator still on worked best. Make sure the cable comes out of the insulation about 3 inches, so when you stick it up the ports, the insulation keeps the cable from bunching up. Basically, you stick the insulation up the hole, then slide the cable thru it and only spin the cable....so the cable is spinning inside the insulation which is jammed into the port. This allowed me to break thru the carbon much easier, and kept the cable from fraying and bunching up.
Some ports take a few tries at 5 min per port. Some, after being soaked for a few hours, are already pretty gummy and the black crap just runs out all over right away. Keep at it..you will know when you free it up. |
Originally Posted by maestromaestro
(Post 9015206)
Thanks for the encouragement, Mark. Yep, I did get the bicycle brake cable and tried drilling "up there". Cumbersome, that's for sure. But, perhaps not persistent enough - nothing seems to push it through.... :mad::mad:
What's areasonable "expected drilling time"? The blockage appears to be present in all ports - even the one that actually passes through solvent and air... I suspect that something is wrong with my technique??? Tried spraying solvent from below as well - bupkes. you just put pressure on the cable as you drill, back off a little, pressure on, etc. usually only takes a few minutes to break through. Then it is a matter of making the opening larger. a shorter piece allows you to push a bit harder. |
Originally Posted by Mike Pezely
(Post 9015170)
Mark, do you and Darrin do this SAI clean out at your shop? If so can you ballpark a price? (no SAI now but you never know)
fun job... :) right around $800 that covers everything needed (gaskets, SAI check valve, new end hardware, etc.) |
Originally Posted by Mike J
(Post 9015252)
Use the electronic method, or repipe the air pump to inject into the exhaust. Both take a bit of work, but you will not have to worry about this ever again.
Cheers, Mike |
Originally Posted by MarkD
(Post 9015057)
use a bicycle brake cable chucked in a drill
approximately 5" piece until you get through the turn. then use a 10" piece to get further in the majority of the build up is at the turn, where the head meets the cam tower. don't give up!!! PS - be ready for a black, chemical mess to rain down when you bust break through
Originally Posted by MarkD
(Post 9015288)
you are coming up the small sai port on the back side of the exh valve, right?
you just put pressure on the cable as you drill, back off a little, pressure on, etc. usually only takes a few minutes to break through. Then it is a matter of making the opening larger. a shorter piece allows you to push a bit harder.
Originally Posted by skl2
(Post 9015280)
I just did this procedure and its all about the cable. I found that a brake cable with the insulator still on worked best. Make sure the cable comes out of the insulation about 3 inches, so when you stick it up the ports, the insulation keeps the cable from bunching up. Basically, you stick the insulation up the hole, then slide the cable thru it and only spin the cable....so the cable is spinning inside the insulation which is jammed into the port. This allowed me to break thru the carbon much easier, and kept the cable from fraying and bunching up.
Some ports take a few tries at 5 min per port. Some, after being soaked for a few hours, are already pretty gummy and the black crap just runs out all over right away. Keep at it..you will know when you free it up. Mark, I think that is where I am sticking it into... But it just meets dead resistance (my guess in the turn). I will attempt to persist... When I sprayed solvent in the check valve port and blew it out (well, attempted to), the ONLY port that showed dripping was the one closest to the check valve. And even there, I could not snake the wire (not drill) past the turn... I think I am doing something wrong (very likely)... Also - some ports (when I took the xchangers off) looked dry and some "not dry" (dark deposits vs. gray ones). Is that of any significance?? [Sorry to bunch up things] |
with the sheath?
never tried that... Just the center cable bare that might be the problem it needs to curve a bit the outer casing may prevent that |
This link to my site may help a bit to see the passages, and how they are NOT straight, but take an angle turn at the interface of the heads and the cam towers. Not pretty for reaming.....
http://www.pcarworkshop.com/index.ph...e_SAI_passages Cheers, Mike |
SAI Circuit board.
Originally Posted by jimbo3
(Post 9015310)
What is the electronic method? Hadn't heard of that one, yet.
|
Originally Posted by Mike J
(Post 9015391)
This link to my site may help a bit to see the passages, and how they are NOT straight, but take an angle turn at the interface of the heads and the cam towers. Not pretty for reaming.....
http://www.pcarworkshop.com/index.ph...e_SAI_passages Cheers, Mike |
Originally Posted by MarkD
(Post 9015379)
with the sheath?
never tried that... Just the center cable bare that might be the problem it needs to curve a bit the outer casing may prevent that |
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