ltc

Look for a "sticky" thread at the top of this forum ...

Deadeye

After spending many hours on my back under the engine last winter using all types of cables, wires and cursing the engineer who came up with this diabolical SAI passage design my advise to you is to get on the list for ltc's electrical fix. If your not burning excessive amounts of oil through your valve guides, Lewis' fix is the way to go. I was only able to clear 3 ports before I stopped trying.

MarkD

ok... But I've never used the outer sheath and have always gotten through.
just sayin'

the circuit bypass is certainly another route to go

skl2

You can do it without the sheath, but I found the sheath helped me use a longer piece of cable without it bending and bunching up. It also let me put more force on the carbon.

My port closest to the SAI was the one that drained first as well. Take a can of carb cleaner with the plastic hose on it and stick the plastic hose up in the ports and spray a liberal amount. Then drill. Then spray more. Then drill. Also make sure you poured a bunch of techron down the SAI port too. You will get it eventually

jimbo3

Thanks, Lewis. Apparently, I've been sleeping!

MarkD

yep, I can see how the sheath would help with a longer cable

we use a short then switch to a long after we break through

PNogC2S

Yep, I 've used both methods- started w/o the sheath/housing on the first cylinder then went to w/housing for the rest. I found the housing fits right into the prt opening, so it serves as a nice guide. I only use about 5" of housing as a guide.

To the OP, if you haven't yet succeeded in breaking through - alternate between forward and reverse on the drill as you apply pressure to the cable (too much pressure will just put a big bend in the cable). I've mentioned it here before, but I was having no luck breaking through until I put the drill in reverse. Going in reverse frays the end of the cable and allows it to make the turn better. Warning- if you have a soft/cheap cable, this may make the whole thing go into a tangle. You should get an old Motorcycle brake cable - we tried using a scooter cable on Nelson's and it was much more difficult becuse the cable itself was more flexible and kept winding up.

Peqoud

+1 on reverse and motorcycle brake cable. Don't give up. I paid a mechanic to try the chemical process and he could not unplug all ports. I brought it home and laid on my back for a few hours running several different lengths of cable in forward and reverse in short bursts (sounds like more fun than it is). Finally broke through. The caveat from the previous post is correct - the cable can get twisted up rather quickly.

Next time this comes up (it will) I am going the electronic route.

Nick

maestromaestro

Got myself a motorcycle brake cable - that's in addition to a whole bunch of other wires. The dang thing just doesn't want to go past the bend!!!!

Am I doing something wrong? Angling it in, quick bursts of twisting, solvent injection - nothing! The worst part is that I can feed the wire as far into the "best" port - in the cylinder that blows air and is the closest to the check valve.

Certainly nowhere near 10 inches that folks are describing.

I plugged 5 of the 6 ports, cranked the compressor to t 100 psi - nothing. How could it be nothing, after all this time? Something at least should seep through...

This should not be this complicated - and yet it is; can't get through the bend - what's the expectation on how far the wire would go in past the SAI opening?

Deadeye

Maestro, save yourself the grief and get Lewis' circuit fix. Even if you are able to clear all ports without breaking off a cable up inside the head, they will clog up again eventually. If the exhaust valves are covered in burnt oil, you should probably consider a top end job, but for 90 seconds of operation on cold starts this is a lot of effort for very little return.

maestromaestro

Well, not only time, I guess, but a fair chunk of money. One (dealer) refused to do it, the other place guesstimated at $1600, the other - 993 specialty shop - suggested that we take everything apart to the tune of $5K. We had a good laugh about that.

So, one more try and that will be it for me, boys and girls. I will put things back up, and go the "electronic" route.

M

mjsporsche

Don't give up. You have a large group of us Rennlisters cheering you on. It seems that many here have hit the "carbon" wall and broke through.

Can you or others provide some photos of what techiques are being used and the twists and turns one needs to go through to clear the damn ports. I am curious as to the effort and pain you are experiencing.

Mark

600RR

I sure would like to try this IN A GROUP SETTING. Any interest in getting a half-dozen or so guys together in the bay area to try it together? ....... or not! If so, clearly someone should know the "drill" on the drill.

BTW, I have ordered the "Lewis Fix." Just like to degunk the SAI because one should be able to do it.

ecobb993

Another vote of encouragement here. I bought a new set of bike cable from Walmart (so certainly wasn't expensive or exceptionally tough). The cable housing does definitely reduce the cable bending.

Here's my process:
* Had trouble with modifying the crowsfoot because I bought a 1/2" drive heavy duty wrench that was much too thick to grind down. Finally went to Sears and got a 3/8" drive (unfortunately part of a set I don't need but included the 1") and it ground down quickly. This did the trick of removing the check valve.

* Poured a little Seafoam in and saw that 4, 5 & 6 were clear. Made little plugs out of soft plastic grub fish baits which fit perfectly. Stuck them in the clear ports. Poured more Seafoam and let it sit in the engine over night.

* Next day crawled under and started reaming with the cable. Cyls 1 & 2 broke through fairly quickly (couple of minutes each) but 3 was another story. Reamed for a while and decided to use a shorter cable. Cut a new one and reamed a little longer. Tried reversing but suspect because this cable was cheap it really unraveled quickly. Cut another piece and reamed for only a minute or two and, bingo!, it broke through.

* Plugged these up and poured more Seafoam to sit again overnight. Next morning pulled the plugs and blew out with compressed air.

Hopefully this will hold me until it's time for a valve job. BTW, if you find, like I did, that you need to replace the short red connector hoses for the heat control boxes (PET no. 000 043 205 04), don't get ripped off by the parts houses/dealer. Even Sunset wanted $170 for a length (about 10 times what you need). Search for 2 3/4" turbo silicone connector hose and you'll find many sources. I got a great 6" long piece for $10 including shipping from Roadrace Engineering - Lydia was great to work with. Had the needed hose in two days.

Keep the faith (and patience). You'll get the job done.

Slow Guy

Understand the reason for the sheath, personally I used a section of 1/4" copper tubing (think refrigerator water line) cut and stuck up in the hole above the valve.

Would agree w/ Darin & Mark's suggestion to use a couple lengths of cable, start short and work longer.

I'm using a Dremil tool here.