Cupcar#12

you know what i'm going to say here, but.
go with the bosch motorsports setup from a 996 cup car (PMNA can flash to daytona specs) along with the harness and splice into the gauges.
I have no idea how the ACU (alarm control unit) is integrated in the 993 however, but removing the electric door locks and the ignition kill should be realtively simple.
Or you can rewire the major control systems and remove them (A/C, etc.) Use the Bosch ABS Mk4 system.....

dgmattingley

On the carpet glue, having just done this I recommend goo gone over goof off and 3m adhesive remover. For whatever reason, it just seemed to work significantly better for me. I used both a heat gun and a propane torch on some sections, others just a good soaking and scoth brite pads and plastic scrapers. It can be done. I estimate about 8 hours of serious elbow grease after I had pulled out the carpet and soundproofing. I wanted mine to be particulary clean since I was not installing any carpet. Aside from a few tiny areas around the rubber seals in the rear footwells, it's all gone.

Cupcar

Hey Rob-

I looked into this and, as I understand it, the connector architecture of the Bosch ECU Porsche uses is different from the Mk 4 Bosch sells, so you have to buy the (IIRC $8000) Porsche unit to get the code - or figure out pin assignments, mod a cable, and download the code to a standard Mk 4... if someone will give the information it to you.

If all this information were ready to go from somewhere I might try it.

The engine I plan will be very similar to a 2004 Cup with Cup intake cams (they just delete the VarioCam system) but with individual throttle bodies and headers so I am not sure the Porsche Bosch ECU would work "as delivered" anyway, but it might.

The main problem that may be solved with a Porsche unit is that the knock sensing frequency analysis may overlay on my engine giving me knock sensing.
It is very hard to work out knock sensing reliably I understand without combustion chamber pressure readings on the dyno - so I was going to skip knock sensing and just run 100 octane gas which should suffice and I can buy near my house.

I think the other non engine functions are mostly power side regulations that could be worked out easily with a cheaper Motec M84 unit and a bit of dyno time for the engine. http://www.motec.com/m84/m84overview/

In either case, I would have to fabricate a complete engine wiring harness.

camlob

Wow thats going to be some engine! Did the watercooled RSRs ever have ITBs? Or will your engine be one of the first?

Cupcar

Yes they did see RSR head below with ITB kit, Cup engines have a single throttle body like street cars.

Bill Verburg

Yes, here's a good shot of the Throttle 7 ITBs


and here is an installed engine


993 RSR heads & Ti valves

onefstm

I just did this job on a 964. Xylene is what you want to use. I tried the 3m adhesive remover as well as goof off without much luck.

Pour the xylene on a rag and then rub the glue. It will transfer to the rag and soon the rag will be black. Discard and start over. It will all come off, even the glue on the harnesses.

Good luck. Definitely not a fun job.

Cupcar

Yes, it sure is!! I have been languishing on my project because of the damn glue. I tried 3M, Goof Off, Goo Off etc. and the amount of work put me off and finally I found some NOS Xylene here in Ca where it is no longer available. Pure Xylene works the best...by a long shot. I bet if one started with Xylene they would spend about 1/3 the time any other product would take to do the job. I spent an hour yesterday on it and found it best to brush the Xylene on and work it with the brush then use a rag to wipe off residue so now the drivers side looks like this:



One thing you must use a well fitted respirator with organic solvent absorbers when using Xylene (Bill Verburg thanks for suggesting this) and fans to move the vapor out of the car. I set up a Vornado fan blowing OUT the door opposite the side I am working on and have my garage door wide open.

On another note, I finally got my door panels solved. I bought the panels from Appbiz, but decided to go with the original RS straps and handles from Porsche. Expensive, more for these than the whole Appbiz panel kit, but I like them. The Appbiz stuff is OK and a great bang for the buck for sure. The panels themselves are particularly nice. The RS handle is a foam casting with a silver insert. I plan to mount with regular rivet nuts and the 10 mm spacer under the handle that Porsche uses rather than the jack nut and machine screw Appbiz uses. The Porsche strap is made of what feels like Polyester, it is softer. The Porsche strap is retained by a pin and clip as shown below rather than a bolt and the pin is in double shear rather than single shear like the Appbiz bolt. The Appbiz trim hardware around the handle and strap was sourced from Porsche and I will use that.



I also found that the RS M003 used "lightweight sunvisors" and I went nuts and ordered them, pictured below with stock visor. I must have saved an once here:



Other than that I have been messing with my rear wing, which has proven to be more pesky to fit than I figured an original piece would be. Still a little work to do:

ilko

It's coming along nicely!

ToSi

Where (when) did you order the RS inner handles? Was going to do the same (appbiz panels + oem h/w) but was told, 'sorry, no longer available' for these last week

Cupcar

Ordered in November and received Dec. 7 from Germany via:

Sunset Imports Porsche Tel- 1-800-346-0182


993.555.249.00.01C black handle
964.555.832.00.N13 red door strap

geordie

Bob,

Good progress!

Can you clarify which Xylene your using? Is it "Klean-strip" Xylol Xylene?

Cheers -

Cupcar

No, it is just called Xylol paint thinner and cleaner degreaser

geordie

Thanks Bob

Cupcar

Latest mini project was these FVD Brombacher sourced German made fog light ducts. Easy fit, just a little trimming and drilling, saves 2 pounds and a recommended product. I will cut the duct so opening is larger though.