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Looks like D-zug is no longer making these unfortunately! I love the curved pedal because the middle of the pedal is where I hit when with heel and toe but the top is just right as is.
Good call all on the Tilton pedal pad. Think I’ll grab one as well.
Again very cool and inspiring car. Thanks for all the documentation!
Looks like D-zug is no longer making these unfortunately! I love the curved pedal because the middle of the pedal is where I hit when with heel and toe but the top is just right as is.
Good call all on the Tilton pedal pad. Think I’ll grab one as well.
Again very cool and inspiring car. Thanks for all the documentation!
pete
Pete - Below is a picture of the mount for the Tilton pad I fabricated. The holes in the plate are threaded for the mounting bolts. The narrow Tilton pad is in the photo.
Or you can do it the 9M way and dip the whole chassis in an electrolytic bath. That'll certainly get rid of any excess glue..
I appreciate this is an old post in an old thread, but just for the purposes of clarification, dipping the whole shell a la 9M does NOT remove the glue, the process of pyrolysis PRIOR to acid dipping removes organic material, sealant and glue.
Very cool build! Can you please explain how you stiffened the chassis floor plate and fabbed and installed the deadpedal?
Thanks
/alex
Originally Posted by Cupcar
The pedal is from a company called D-Zug - I am not sure they are still in business. Sold as a part for pre-89 911 so I had to modify the black base plate by flipping it 180 degrees and some other minor changes to the plate. A tubular spacer had to be made up and a rod end installed at the pedal end of the linkage so as to move the operating rod toward the tunnel. I also had to install the early 911's threaded nylon bolt adjustable pedal stop (see picture below) on the floor board. Once these mods are done the pedal is totally adjustable for position back and forth as well as a slight amount side to side. The response ratio can also be changed by moving the operating rod in the holes so the pedal does a lot of cool things besides look like a 917's pedal. By the way, the brake pedal pad is from Tilton Engineering as used on their pedal assemblies. It is mounted to a pad with multiple options for position. Also, I stiffened the chassis floor plate for the dead pedal and installed Rivnuts to bolt down a 1/4" thick alloy plate for a very stiff dead pedal.
I think I went overboard with the pop rivets showing on the mounting face, fewer would do and they don't have to be stainless steel, mild steel would do. Note there are pop rivets not seen on the angle extrusions's flange face pointed toward the center console and these are probably important for stiffness. Make a pattern out of poster board, measure carefully (calipers help) and a bit of Dykem blue with a sharp scribe is nice for layout on the alloy. I used the same 3M stair tread that Tilton uses for their pedals. It's replaceable if needed. Screws holding the pedal to the mount are stainless flat head and the if'n you don't have a Rivnut installer (I used metric Rivnuts BTW) here is a nice tutorial with hardware available at a store
Below is a picture of a real RS door taken from another Rennlister's ad to sell it. Thanks.
Differences from normal C2 panel are noted.
I plan to leave in the side door beam but remove the spot welded bracket for the normal C2 door handle, as well as install 6 mm Rivnuts as the factory did in the positions shown for the factory RS door handle.
I figure the bezel around the handle's bases will cover the error of the Appbiz panel's in location for these screws.
Thought I might ask here as it was brought up, but I don't recall a definitive answer. The appbiz handles and door cards aren't right. The appbiz handles are too wide and the door cards have the holes a bit low, and too tilted. Looking at the red doors, is it true the handle is level (no tilt) for factory spec? What is the factory handle hole spacing - 160mm? Thanks!
Agreed, the Appbiz items are slipshod at best.. I had to drill some holes in the door steel to accompany the holes in the panels and handles... This summer I'm going to remake another set of RS panels and do it properly, probably a thin flexible fiberglass sheet (maybe PET sheet?) with 5 mm of HDPE foam, and Alcantara... Plus when those door cards get damp or humid they become a noodle.. What do you expect from paper matting board..?
D-zug are still making them.. Or at least he is still selling them on eBay, I picked one up a month ago! GT 356 Ebay
Originally Posted by Peteinjp
Looks like D-zug is no longer making these unfortunately! I love the curved pedal because the middle of the pedal is where I hit when with heel and toe but the top is just right as is.
Good call all on the Tilton pedal pad. Think I’ll grab one as well.
Again very cool and inspiring car. Thanks for all the documentation!
Not much, I built a Baltic Birch floorboard for the trunk since I don't carry a spare any longer and installed a Li Ion battery. The spare saved 29 pounds and the battery around 13 pounds less than the RS battery. Car weighs 2662 with 12 gallons of gas in it.
09-19-2018, 06:02 AM
