Kacey

That interior is absolutely flawless!!!

Cupcar

Thanks.

Jeff Gamroth's hub and a Porsche Motorsport early 993/996 style quick wheel release, a perfect match to the Gamroth hub unit in fit and finish.

budge96

Very nice build love the attention to detail ,am I mistaken or is this a Euro
110 liter petrol tank?
thanks looking for one of these tanks if anyone in Canada wants to part
with theirs ...Bert

Cupcar

92 Liter option tank in Europe. Bought new from Porsche.

MarinS4

Such an amazing build Bob! Thanks for taking the time to document it so well. Much of what you've done inspires me to take mine to the next level. Can't say I'll go this far though.

synth19

Late to the party, but wow !

Cupcar

I referred someone to my post here and I am surprised I have not updated things with pictures of car as it is now. A few mods to controls with dead pedal and fabricated accelerator pedal and CAE shifter in addition to centerlock wheels.

air993

A LOT of win in this thread. Keep up the great work (and the pictures)!

tjb616

I would love to hear more about the center lock conversion.

Cupcar

For the center locks I used the factory parts from a SuperCup/RSR 3.8 car. There are two kits one for RSR BBS wheels and one for Cup Speedline wheels. The Speedlines are cast magnesium centered and not available new any longer and older ones have been raced and may have cracks or corrosion issues so I went with new BBS forged alloy CNC center wheels. The difference between the kits lies in the drive pins and central pressure washer for the wheel. The rear kit is straight forward change of the hub and bolting on of the rest of the hardware. The front kit does not use the normal bolt but uses the end of a C4 drive shaft machined for the purpose of holding the parts together - this part is NLA and had to be machined from C4 parts. The reason being that the C4 axle end engages the splines on the hub so the center stud can't turn relative to the wheel. The central bolt replaces the nut on both ends of the car. There is a centering "pot" on the wheel hub that helps support the wheel as it goes on and there are 10 hole options on the wheel to engage the 5 drive pins so wheel replacement is easy. I can R&R all 4 wheels in about the same time it takes me to R&R one not including torqueing the center nut which requires a huge torque wrench, a special grease and 347 ft.-lbs of torque. Of note is all the center bolts are right hand not right and left handed as one would think. The centering pot has splines that engage the hub at specially machined points and the 5 drive pins have recesses machined into the hub for them.

911F1

Saw your car at Luft 5. I enjoyed staring at it very much. Great attention to detail.

jeanhules

Cheers to a great guy. Thanks for all the help with my centerlock project.

What are all the buttons and non-stock switches and lights on the cluster area?

Cupcar

You are welcome John for the centerlock help. The buttons, lights and switches all come from Porsche race cars past installed in an RS 2.7 lightweight's clock plug. The red and blue warning lights are for the alternator and side marker warning lamps and were first in 908 and 917 cars. The buttons are a starter button and horn button from a 906 and serve the same functions here lower is starter and upper is for horn (although few 906 cars had horns) . The switches are from a 550 Spyder and do the same functions as that car: upper ignition circuit, lower ignition circuit and fuel pump. The red "T" handle battery disconnect is from a 964/993 Carrera Cup car. Note some of the switches, buttons and lamps used in a 917/30 below.

Peteinjp

Cupcar

The pedal is from a company called D-Zug - I am not sure they are still in business. Sold as a part for pre-89 911 so I had to modify the black base plate by flipping it 180 degrees and some other minor changes to the plate. A tubular spacer had to be made up and a rod end installed at the pedal end of the linkage so as to move the operating rod toward the tunnel. I also had to install the early 911's threaded nylon bolt adjustable pedal stop (see picture below) on the floor board. Once these mods are done the pedal is totally adjustable for position back and forth as well as a slight amount side to side. The response ratio can also be changed by moving the operating rod in the holes so the pedal does a lot of cool things besides look like a 917's pedal. By the way, the brake pedal pad is from Tilton Engineering as used on their pedal assemblies. It is mounted to a pad with multiple options for position. Also, I stiffened the chassis floor plate for the dead pedal and installed Rivnuts to bolt down a 1/4" thick alloy plate for a very stiff dead pedal.