Recap of the SAI circuit
deleted
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And the purpose of the circuit is?
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If you have issues with Secondary Air Injection ports being blocked or you want to remove the entire SAI system from your '96 - '98. '95s have the system but the ECU does not check if the system is working correctly.
The blocked ports issue shows up as OBD errors: P0410 - Secondary Air Injection System: Malfunction P1411 - Manufacturer specific code |
This one is a keeper! Thanks.
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This looks interesting. I'm curious if you need to do this before a CEL is tripped or if it can be done afterwards, clear the CEL with my OBDII code reader and then still get through emissions.
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It can be done before or after. Of course if done after tripping the CEL, the error must be cleared and the registers retested with the drive procedure to pass smog.
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Interesting solution.
Is there a way through SW to just 'ignore' this fault code so it doesn't register at all? There is no real drivability concern, just your CATs are not getting as hot as they could if they were getting more fresh air at startup. I vaguely remember back from my BMW days that there seemed to be a SW fix for some of those guys who also suffered from clogged SAI issues. Some companies offered it as part of a chip tune. I think they called it a "Carbon Ignore" or something like that. Granted, my coding knowledge is very limited, but it seems reasonable that you could edit it to just ignore a particular code. Of course there is the whole 'legality' of such a solution, but if it is for 'off road use only', maybe it will be OK. :) |
I have yet to see a software solution in person. There was a rennlister who posted a friend paid around $1000 to reprogram the ECU to ignore the fault. There is a company called TurboWerx saying for a year that they were coming out with a ECU add-on to ignore the error for $400. This circuit was $10 which is for "testing and educational only". ;)
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I certainly think this HW solution has merit. Hard to say no to $10.
Still, it would seem there should be some kind of SW fix possible. Granted, I doubt it would be $10, but it would be totally stealth as long as it didn't throw anything else off. Given a lot of folks go the chip route anyway, adding this 'SAI ignore program' while you're at it seems reasonable. Please forgive my ignorance here, but don't ROW cars ignore the SAI since it is not used? What if someone swapped in one of those ECUs? A lot of the OBDII codes are generic so it seems plausible on the surface although i'm sure there is some devil in the details. On that note, what are the major differences between a ROW and US ECU? Perhaps some different level of tune due to the octane ratings? What else constitutes the difference? Would a US car run if a ROW ECU was swapped in and nothing else changed? |
Originally Posted by Aircooled Dave
(Post 8854501)
I certainly think this HW solution has merit. Hard to say no to $10.
Still, it would seem there should be some kind of SW fix possible. Granted, I doubt it would be $10, but it would be totally stealth as long as it didn't throw anything else off. Given a lot of folks go the chip route anyway, adding this 'SAI ignore program' while you're at it seems reasonable. Please forgive my ignorance here, but don't ROW cars ignore the SAI since it is not used? What if someone swapped in one of those ECUs? A lot of the OBDII codes are generic so it seems plausible on the surface although i'm sure there is some devil in the details. On that note, what are the major differences between a ROW and US ECU? Perhaps some different level of tune due to the octane ratings? What else constitutes the difference? Would a US car run if a ROW ECU was swapped in and nothing else changed? Check out the link in my sig if you're interested in the ECU difference between ROW and US. Cheers, Joe |
Where does the gray wire go? Is it just grounded or does it have to go to wire 3 of one of the O2 sensors?
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I grounded the gray wire to the chassis.
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"Still, it would seem there should be some kind of SW fix possible."
Not really, without a MAJOR redesign (patch) in the firmware coding, and not just changing cell entries like the Mickey Mouse so-called tuners do! This would require a lengthly dis-assembly of the 993 DME ECM firmware and redesign of OBDII firmware. Remember, besides the actual test, the cycle flag for the SAI test must be set or in the end none of the readiness codes (monitors) will be set to allow an emissions test to begin at the smog station, i.e. readiness codes ONLY show full completion when all tests have fully completed successfully. Read here for more info: http://www.systemsc.com/codes.htm |
I got my parts from Jameco and I'm going to see if I can assemble the circuit board. Looks pretty simple. I have had the CEL for about 2 years due to the SAI. Tried cleaning the ports but ran into a corroded manifold. If this works, it will be nice to get rid of that yellow light on the dash. I'll try to remember to post some pictures and updates. I'm a mechanical engineer, not electrical, so I will trust you spark chasers you the components all worked out.
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Good luck Mike, let us know how it turns out, Im thinking about doing this myself
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If anyone needs electronics help with their prototypes, please feel free to PM me (I've been doing electronics for 40 years)
It would also be a very simple task to design a very quick and inexpensive printed circuit board (probably around $5 + parts) which would make assembly much easier...sort of like an old Heathkit. |
please please!
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Lewis
If you decide to make the boards, I'd be interested. Tony |
Is there a specific size the PCB should be?
Would an assembled board be better than a bare board/bag of parts? I know some people don't like to solder. I took a quick look at the schematic and it looks OK, I would perhaps make some minor changes. (I designed OEM electronics for Porsche, Audi, Mercedes so working on a 12V automotive bus is something you don't forget) I could probably do something like this on a rainy weekend, send the files out to have boards made (usually 1 week) and assemble a few in my basement electroncis shop. |
Lewis,
I would be very interested in purchasing one of these boards for my car, also. Can I give you a "deposit?" Thanks, Phil |
I would also buy a board. Just so things are clear -- this enables us to physically remove the SAI system from our cars, including the OBDII ones, and never have a problem with getting smogged/CEL's?
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Originally Posted by ltc
(Post 8868020)
Is there a specific size the PCB should be?
Would an assembled board be better than a bare board/bag of parts? I know some people don't like to solder. A pre-assembled board would be fantastic. Installing it in the car would be piece of cake. |
I don't mind doing the PCB layout and soldering/assembling the boards.
I am not looking to make any profit from this, so it would just be cost + shipping. I will double check with the Admin (Bob) to make sure there are no issues. |
Originally Posted by NP993
(Post 8868190)
I would also buy a board. Just so things are clear -- this enables us to physically remove the SAI system from our cars, including the OBDII ones, and never have a problem with getting smogged/CEL's?
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Originally Posted by ltc
(Post 8868020)
Is there a specific size the PCB should be?
Would an assembled board be better than a bare board/bag of parts? I know some people don't like to solder. I took a quick look at the schematic and it looks OK, I would perhaps make some minor changes. (I designed OEM electronics for Porsche, Audi, Mercedes so working on a 12V automotive bus is something you don't forget) I could probably do something like this on a rainy weekend, send the files out to have boards made (usually 1 week) and assemble a few in my basement electroncis shop. One variant I did from the schematic, is the 12v ground wire was connected to the chassis directly instead of the gray O2 sensor lead just to make it more convenient. |
I'll take one too, Lewis. Thanks for the offer!
That being said I can see how this easily could turn into a 100+ unit job so if you decide to outsource it I would be more than happy to cover the costs. I'm sure most people here would be too. Thanks again! |
A question on wire termination options.
1. soldered wires, say 12" long, coming off the board or 2. use screw terminal blocks, allowing you to chose wiring type/length/etc...no soldering required (they are fairly inexpensive), just a screwdriver Example: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/dk...name=A98036-ND It would be the same PCB, in the first case, I simply don't install the terminal block and solder wires instead. I have sent a PM to the Admin and IB, just to make sure there is no conflict of interest (I am not a RL sponsor and not doing this for a profit... more of a hobby). Once I hear back, I will likely setup a seperate thread to keep track of who would like the PCB. It will be small enough to be sent via USPS (which should keep costs down) |
I'm in for a soldered board. Suggest $10 if Lewis does it for $5 (but only $5 if Larry does the work underground), BTW, Heathkit? Wow, that was awhile ago.
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Forgot to add ... Thanks for stepping up on this. Very nice.
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Thanks for doing this Lewis. Looks like there is lots of interest.
I would suggest soldered wires coming off the board. That makes it one less step to install and I don't have to think about what kind of wires I want to use. The users who want a very specific wire and length will probably change it anyway. Are you thinking of providing boards with components installed, just a board, board and kit of parts, or all three variations? Other posts have brought out concerns of liability if the circuit should cause some problem to their car. You may want to provide a kit of parts with instructions and let the builder accept responsibility. I don' tknow the interface to the ECU and what the possibility is of ECU damage if a short to ground or short to hot should occur. |
One for me to please Lewis if you decide to make them.
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Please add me to the list for this PCBA.
Bill |
Please one for me as well should this move forward. Would be interested in assembled board or with bag of components. Thanks for pursuing this!
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I can provide a bare PCB along with a bag of parts (Heathkit style) or an assembled board.
In order to make it easy to solder for the DIY folks, I will design it with all through hole components instead of surface mount ... Old School |
Originally Posted by 600RR
(Post 8868705)
I'm in for a soldered board. Suggest $10 if Lewis does it for $5 (but only $5 if Larry does the work underground), BTW, Heathkit? Wow, that was awhile ago.
Yes, Heathkits. I was the youngest certified Master Builder in Heathkit history. I used to build the kits for the showroom when I was about 10 yrs old. I could build a kit in 1/3 the time of anyone else and never had an assembly error. Rather than cash, I was given kits as payment. I still have some Heathkits from the 70's still in boxes, along with a dozen or so assembled units. Since Larry is dead, I plan on using him for assembly labor :typing: |
Originally Posted by ltc
(Post 8868362)
I don't mind doing the PCB layout and soldering/assembling the boards.
I am not looking to make any profit from this, so it would just be cost + shipping. I will double check with the Admin (Bob) to make sure there are no issues. Best, |
OK, just heard back from Bob (RL admin) and there are no issues or conflicts with me doing this.
So, this weekend should be schematic capture, library work and PCB layout. I will ask one of the Mods to stick a thread at the top of this forum to act as a list of who wants one and in what configuration (kit or assembled). I will source all the components from DigiKey and the PCB from Advanced Circuits, so there will be full visibility into the parts cost. |
Lewis
you are a wizard. Please count me in too. Many thanks and what great talent we have on this board Dave |
I want one of these.
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down for one as well.
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Wow Lewis...incredibly generous of you to do this...I'll definitely be signing up for one... cheers!
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What other parts does one need to remove the OBDII SAI system? Aren't there a couple of plugs or something?
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I could REALLY use one right now for a '97 M3. The only readiness indicator not set is the SAI and I've replaced the air pump and check valve.
I'll take one for the 993, will post in the order thread when it gets posted. |
I'd love one too if you do them.
Thanks a million! |
I'll take a kit. Would appreciate any suggestions on how to learn soldering.
Thanks Lewis!! |
Despite being responsible for every problem in every early CS, Lewis is great. Take that PCNA!
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"does this enables us to physically remove the SAI system from our cars, including the OBDII ones,"
No! All it does is fool/mis-represent what the O2 sensors 'see' when the SAI air pump turns 'on', i.e. It basically indicates that an adequate amount of air is reaching the O2 sensors during a cold start-up. |
Originally Posted by Lorenfb
(Post 8870167)
No! All it does is fool/mis-represent what the O2 sensors 'see' when the SAI air pump turns 'on', i.e. It basically indicates that an adequate amount of air is reaching the O2 sensors during a cold start-up.
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Count me in for one! Thanks Lewis. I think I still have an old Heathkit voltmeter from about 1970 that my brother built.
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Wherever the "formal" list ends up for sign up, I'm on it. Never know when one may need one.
Thank you Lewis! |
Originally Posted by Lorenfb
(Post 8870167)
"does this enables us to physically remove the SAI system from our cars, including the OBDII ones,"
No! All it does is fool/mis-represent what the O2 sensors 'see' when the SAI air pump turns 'on', i.e. It basically indicates that an adequate amount of air is reaching the O2 sensors during a cold start-up. |
Originally Posted by ltc
(Post 8869130)
So, this weekend should be schematic capture, library work and PCB layout. I will source all the components from DigiKey and the PCB from Advanced Circuits, so there will be full visibility into the parts cost. |
Please put me down for 1 ea. assembled and 1 ea. kit. TIA! You da man! :bowdown:
p.s.: Still have my Heathkit strobe light and CO meter (analog...nowhere near accurate enough for today's cars.) Built many kits when I was a teenager. |
Great post and Rennlist spirit! I don't have any SAI issues, but I will also like to sign up for one please!
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What happened with Post #1 that Flying_low posted with the schematics and pictures? I could see it yesterday but it has dissapeared now...
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Originally Posted by cabrio993
(Post 8870481)
What happened with Post #1 that Flying_low posted with the schematics and pictures? I could see it yesterday but it has dissapeared now...
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Originally Posted by cabrio993
(Post 8870481)
What happened with Post #1 that Flying_low posted with the schematics and pictures? I could see it yesterday but it has dissapeared now...
Originally Posted by flying_low
(Post 8870803)
That's weird. If it doesn't re-appear I'll create a web page on my server for the details.
I will try to fix it now. |
Ok fixed.
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I would like one too. :cheers:
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"Why does that mean we can't remove the SAI pump and system from our cars?"
Yes, you could remove just the pump, but why? When you remove system components, it no longer looks stock, i.e. A possible future sale or an overly committed emissions inspector/tester. |
I'm signing up for 2 assembled.
Jack |
Originally Posted by Lorenfb
(Post 8870920)
"Why does that mean we can't remove the SAI pump and system from our cars?"
Yes, you could remove just the pump, but why? When you remove system components, it no longer looks stock, i.e. A possible future sale or an overly committed emissions inspector/tester. |
I'm also in for two units. Rennlist is a great place... Thanks
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I'm in for one. I can compare it to my "home made" version.
I loved those Heathkits! |
+1
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Count me in too pls.
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add another one to the list! I'm in.
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wasn't there a thread awhile back about same that was removed as it was possibly not legal especially for states with smog refs....
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Originally Posted by 600RR
(Post 8870162)
Despite being responsible for every problem in every early CS, Lewis is great. Take that PCNA!
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+1
I sent you a pm earlier... please count me in for one on the first batch ! thanks !...and....very cool. |
Lewis,
Are you looking at doing surface mount (smaller) or through-hole parts? What CAD are you using for the layout, and could you release the layout files (Gerbers?) for the PCB when your done so others can make more later if needed? Thanks, Aaron |
SAI
Please add me to the list.
Thanks |
Originally Posted by aaronutk
(Post 8872875)
Lewis,
Are you looking at doing surface mount (smaller) or through-hole parts? What CAD are you using for the layout, and could you release the layout files (Gerbers?) for the PCB when your done so others can make more later if needed? Thanks, Aaron Since this is a quick project, I was just going to use Advanced Circuits PCB Artist for both schematic capture and layout, which is a free download. Ive used it a couple of times and haven't had any issues. Again, I am doing this for the DIY aspect to help those troubleshoot their SAI, it is not meant to circumvent or violate any emissions laws or regulations. It is simply a toolbox item for RL members who work on their own cars. I have no intention of making a single penny of profit from this project, and I will gladly distribute the design files and bill of material (which will be sourced from DigiKey) |
"Ah, okay. So what you originally said is not correct."
Not really! You need to re-read your question and my response. "does this enables us to physically remove the SAI system from our cars, including the OBDII ones," "No! All it does is fool/mis-represent what the O2 sensors 'see' when the SAI air pump turns 'on', i.e. It basically indicates that an adequate amount of air is reaching the O2 sensors during a cold start-up. " The SAI system includes the not only the air pump but: 1. the O2 sensors 2. the SAI monitor diagnostics within the ODBII system 3. the relay which turns the pump 'on' and the by-pass circuit 4. air valves So one can't really remove the SAI system!!!!!!!! Potential Problem with the proposed by-pass circuit: On the '97/'98 DME ECM the SAI monitor may look for a voltage change on the O2 sensors and NOT an immediate zero volts from the O2 sensors with the by-pass circuit. So a SAI fault still may occur. Bottom line: Before asssuming that the by-pass circuit is the end-all fix for ALL 993s, thorough testing needs to be done on all 993s, i.e. Since later/early 993 DME ECMs had different OBDII firmwares and thus the by-pass circuit may have different effects. Furthermore, if the by-pass circuit is not grounded in the ideal location or the circuit is not shielded from 'noise', the circuit may not function properly and additionally cause the O2 sensors to provide erroneous voltages, thereby causing additional fault codes. |
Originally Posted by Lorenfb
(Post 8872986)
...On the '97/'98 DME ECM the SAI monitor may look for a voltage
change on the O2 sensors and NOT an immediate zero volts from the O2 sensors with the by-pass circuit. So a SAI fault still may occur.. |
"It would be a simple circuit to design for this (voltage change), assuming the voltage levels were provided."
Probably not that simple, i.e. One would have to characterize the actual voltage change that was required. For example, the OBDII system may what 'see' the O2 voltage start at .45 volts and have a time constant range of 2-3 seconds and have a minimum voltage of 20-30 millivolts. If the desired change is not 'seen', then SAI monitor is not set and a fault code (CEL) results. |
Originally Posted by Lorenfb
(Post 8873884)
"It would be a simple circuit to design for this (voltage change), assuming the voltage levels were provided."
Probably not that simple, i.e. One would have to characterize the actual voltage change that was required. For example, the OBDII system may what 'see' the O2 voltage start at .45 volts and have a time constant range of 2-3 seconds and have a minimum voltage of 20-30 millivolts. If the desired change is not 'seen', then SAI monitor is not set and a fault code (CEL) results. |
I don't need it right now, but good to have just in case. Please add me to the list!
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Originally Posted by Lorenfb
(Post 8872986)
"No! All it does is fool/mis-represent what the O2 sensors 'see' when the
SAI air pump turns 'on', i.e. It basically indicates that an adequate amount of air is reaching the O2 sensors during a cold start-up. " The SAI system includes the not only the air pump but: 1. the O2 sensors 2. the SAI monitor diagnostics within the ODBII system 3. the relay which turns the pump 'on' and the by-pass circuit 4. air valves So one can't really remove the SAI system!!!!!!!! Potential Problem with the proposed by-pass circuit: On the '97/'98 DME ECM the SAI monitor may look for a voltage change on the O2 sensors and NOT an immediate zero volts from the O2 sensors with the by-pass circuit. So a SAI fault still may occur. Bottom line: Before asssuming that the by-pass circuit is the end-all fix for ALL 993s, thorough testing needs to be done on all 993s, i.e. Since later/early 993 DME ECMs had different OBDII firmwares and thus the by-pass circuit may have different effects. Furthermore, if the by-pass circuit is not grounded in the ideal location or the circuit is not shielded from 'noise', the circuit may not function properly and additionally cause the O2 sensors to provide erroneous voltages, thereby causing additional fault codes. |
Add me to the list for an assembled board please!
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Please add me to the list. I'd like (2) of the assembled boards.
Thanks for doing this! |
Please put me down for 1 of the assembled boards also.
Great work! |
Lewis, Please also put me down for two assembled kits! Thanks for the contribution to Rennlist! We all appreciate it!
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PLZ put me down for one assembled kits.......we can't thank you enough!!!!!!!
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Sign me up for one assembled board. Thx Lewis.
_____________ '97 Blk/Blk C2S |
Please count me in for one. Thx
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Great idea!!! Please add me to the list for one assembled and on un-assembled unit.
Thanks |
Is there a way to check the function of the circuit before it is installed? If I apply 12 volts to the + and - is there a specific voltage or range I should see at each O2 sensor? Do they go to ground or do they show a small voltage?
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I would definitely like to be able to test my system. Put me down for one assembled.
Thanks! -Andrew |
Originally Posted by MDamen
(Post 8881670)
Is there a way to check the function of the circuit before it is installed? If I apply 12 volts to the + and - is there a specific voltage or range I should see at each O2 sensor? Do they go to ground or do they show a small voltage?
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Right on Lewis...you da man!
Please add me to the list...I'll take two. Whatever version is easiest to install. thanks Mark |
I checked the engine compartment to look for wire routing and circuit board location. There is plenty of room for the circuit in the electrical box on the left side. 12 inch leads for the plus and minus 12 volts will be fine. There are two O2 sensor connectors directly next to the box. 12 inch leads will probably work for them too. The other two O2 connectors are under the electrical cover on the right side. They will need about a 60 inch lead to allow routing along the rear of the engine compartment. My car is a 96. I don't know if the O2 connectors are in different places for different years. You might want to check.
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"They will need about a 60 inch lead to allow routing along the rear of the engine compartment."
Potential ignition noise problem! Shielded wires may be needed. Also, a small box should be used to enclose and protect the circuit board. And if a kit/circuit board is provided, a box should be provided too. Mickey Mouse solutions not allowed! |
Yes, a box is needed for the board. It shouldn't be just sitting in the electrical box. It should be pretty easy to find some 2 conductor shielded cable.
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Originally Posted by MDamen
(Post 8885814)
Yes, a box is needed for the board. It shouldn't be just sitting in the electrical box. It should be pretty easy to find some 2 conductor shielded cable.
Jack |
Please put me down for 1 of the assembled boards also.
Thanks for doing this. Emerald |
I worked a bit on routing my wires to the O2 sensor connectors. The wires need to be fairly small to fit into the connectors. I would suggest a 2 conductor 18 or 20 gage wire. Since it only takes a sensor signal, you could probably go down to 22 gage. I'll try to post some pictures if I can figure out how.
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Originally Posted by MDamen
(Post 8890295)
I worked a bit on routing my wires to the O2 sensor connectors. The wires need to be fairly small to fit into the connectors. I would suggest a 2 conductor 18 or 20 gage wire. Since it only takes a sensor signal, you could probably go down to 22 gage. I'll try to post some pictures if I can figure out how.
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Please put me down for 1 assembled! Thx Lewis!
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I would love to have one as well.
Thanks a bunch, steve |
I'd like to get one as well, please. A kit is fine.
Although my SAI is OK now, it would be nice to havejust in case I have to "troubleshoot" in the future. Thanks!!! |
I installed my circuit today. I used the 1x2x3 project box and 2 conductor 24 gauge wire similar to Flying Low. This is far from plug and play. It is not difficult, but is tedious to connect the wires into the O2 connectors. I also drilled a couple holes in my electrical box to route the wires out. I could not find a readily obvious ground in the electrical box so I routed the ground wire to the gray wire on one of the O2 connectors.
I cleared the CEL and now I'm waiting for all the readiness checks to set to see if the CEL comes back. |
Hi Lewis,
I'd like to get an assembled kite also, please. My SAI is OK but it willl be nice to have. Thanks, |
after reading all of this and looking at the schematic, is there any reason why a 4PDT relay wouldn't do the same thing? mil-spec crystal can relays are readily available surplus and other form factors can be had new - I would think that a relay solution would be far more immune to EMI/EMC and since it's a single part, would be easier for everyone. the kind of relays I'm thinking of are like the ones shown here http://www.surplussales.com/relays/crystalcan.html - if all you find is DP then just use two of them. full mil spec relays won't be bothered by the heat in the engine compartment either.
any thoughts? |
If its not mechanical, I can barely figure it out. Those relays are fairly small. You still need a base or board to wire them to. I assume that a EE guy saw the opportunity to use some transistors as a switch and they took up very little space.
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Wow! Thank you for proposing this Lewis. I would like to sign up for this too - with a '97, so we will see. No worries about guarantees, and be glad to remit any premium required for an assembled one. Two left hands in the electrical dept.
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Hello,
My apologies for not posting in this thread for a while; my septic system at home recently failed and I've been dealing with ... :surr: In any event, today I completed the schematic capture and PCB layout. Prior to ordering, I just wanted to update everyone on pricing vs quantity ordered. For the bare PCB, no components (2 sided, 1.75" x 1.75"), the price per board is: $28.26 each for qty 10 $11.94 each for qty 25 $6.50 each for qty 50 $3.78 each for qty 100 (this is typical for PCB fabrication. they run 1-2 panels at a fixed cost and you pay this price, no matter how many circuits you get on a panel.) The PCB is being fabricated by Advanced Circuits. I've used them many times in the past, they are a US on shore PCB fab house. As far as enclosures, it is optional. I have designed the PCB outline to fix this inexpensive IP54 plastic housing (about $1.50 each): http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...mIxZS2NA%3d%3d Again, it is up to you whether or not you want to use this small enclosure or not. As far as terminations, the PCB will accept either soldered wires or it can built with wire to board terminals (simple screwdriver to connect/disconnect):http://search.digikey.com/us/en/prod...036-ND/1826899 (these are about $0.25 each and the design accomodates 5...one for 12V/GND and then one for each O2 sensor)....again, optional if you wish soldered wires. As far as components, there are the 4 transistors, one diode, 2 caps and a single resistor array (makes it a bit easier to solder/assemble for those wishing a kit building experience). I would estimate these components together to cost about $2.00 or so. Again, the selling price will be EXACTLY the parts cost + shipping and handling (I think USPS Priority mail is about $5.95) Please let me know how many people are still interested in these (assembled or kits) and if you prefer the terminal blocks or soldered wires and or an enclosure. The PCB fabrication time is one week, plus shipping time, followed by assembly (I should be able to build a couple a night, even with my quickly diminishing eyesight!). Each kit (or assembled board) will ship with a hardcopy of the schematic and the PCB layout to aid in assembly and integration. Regards, |
Lewis,
I'm still in for 2 assembled boards complete in enclosures. Let me know when you are ready to accept payments. Thanks again for doing this! |
Somewhere along the way in this thread I jumped in for one... I'm still in for one assembled, soldered unit. And please, you're doing all the work, add in some labor, and let us know the easiest payment method for you (assuming PayPal, but whatever works best).
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Just a thought - that pricing curve on the PCB's is very steep (good).
The difference in total $ outlay for 10 boards or 100 boards is less than a hundred dollars. Might as well put in an order for Q100! There are a lot of 993's here that are going to need this... Best, Matt |
Lewis,
I am in for 2 please. Great item to have in case I ever need one. |
I took the liberty of going through the thread and making a list. Looks like we're at 49 interested, with some folks wanting more than one.
Thanks for taking the time to do this Lewis. vincer77 Rick Lee Aircooled Dave michaelh993 tonypai fullbooker NP993 flying low ilko 600RR Shahrams bw993 tbil Teddy2 Ash 993BillW Jim W Dan V efong AW21 NC TRACKRAT cabrio993 Paul M tropheus C4SJOHN MDamen TheBen JPS air993 alpinadvl rsa964 cdmdriver Jeff96-993 Kaefer SimonM_98 CarreraX skypig Don't lift 2ndof2 Richard W Amfab M Fig e3photo 911Dave kraftsman PNogC2S CAHRERA slapshot bprasmsn.com |
Confirming my desire for one assembled with enclosure and terminal blocks please.Thanks!
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I'm still in. Prefer the assembled version as well. Thanks again Lewis!
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I am still in for two ( 2 ) assembled version of the units. If you want or need the payment and shipping information before starting the process please let me know. Lewis, Thanks again. John
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I'm in for 4 assembled units. If we need more to make a key number of unit, let me know as I can pitch in for more units.
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Lewis I insist on paying you for your R&D and labor. This is America.
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Please add me to the list for 2 assembled units w/ enclosures and term. blocks. Thank you!
This will be a great tool to have. :) |
Thanks Lewis...I'm new to the mix and would like one kit w/enclosure... looks like you have plenty of assemblies to do. I could probably do some after I hone my skills on my kit. I've PM'd you with my contact info.
-Bob |
Thanks Lewis
Please put my name on one fully assembled kit with the enclosure.
|
Hi Guys,
I amended the list that Paul M put together - it might be easier to just continue to add to this list by filling out the quantity next to your name. Some people, I couldn't find a definitive request as far as quantity of units. Please confirm the list. Also, given that there's an option to add the enclosure or not, to make things simple would it be easier to choose: a) default is w. enclosure OR b) default is board only? Obviously, I was just thinking of trying to make Lewis' job easier in terms of tracking all the different order variants. Finally, I would agree with NP993 - looking at the orders this is no insignificant amount of work (heck, just organizing the shipping alone is a fair amount of effort - nevermind the assembly of the kits)...it's incredibly generous of Lewis to do this and I'd have no problem adding some kind of labor on top of this. Thanks again Lewis! :cheers:
|
Originally Posted by Ash
(Post 8933424)
Hi Guys,
I amended the list that Paul M put together - it might be easier to just continue to add to this list by filling out the quantity next to your name. Some people, I couldn't find a definitive request as far as quantity of units. Please confirm the list. Also, given that there's an option to add the enclosure or not, to make things simple would it be easier to choose: a) default is w. enclosure OR b) default is board only? Obviously, I was just thinking of trying to make Lewis' job easier in terms of tracking all the different order variants. Finally, I would agree with NP993 - looking at the orders this is no insignificant amount of work (heck, just organizing the shipping alone is a fair amount of effort - nevermind the assembly of the kits)...it's incredibly generous of Lewis to do this and I'd have no problem adding some kind of labor on top of this. Thanks again Lewis! :cheers:
Jack |
I'm not in on this so I'll comment as a third party. Lewis, you are being way too kind. From past experience I know that whenever someone tries to charge the exact cost on something like this he/she ends up at least a few dollars short. I applaud your determination to do this for free (ex-parts cost) but you should have a small margin at least to cover the inevitable shortfall. I roughed out your parts cost at about $17 so I'd suggest just charge $20 so you're fully covered on costs, even though I personally think you should charge quite a bit more and doubt any here would mind in the slightest. JMHO.
|
Originally Posted by 2Many Cars
(Post 8934445)
I'm not in on this so I'll comment as a third party. Lewis, you are being way too kind. From past experience I know that whenever someone tries to charge the exact cost on something like this he/she ends up at least a few dollars short. I applaud your determination to do this for free (ex-parts cost) but you should have a small margin at least to cover the inevitable shortfall. I roughed out your parts cost at about $17 so I'd suggest just charge $20 so you're fully covered on costs, even though I personally think you should charge quite a bit more and doubt any here would mind in the slightest. JMHO.
|
Originally Posted by NP993
(Post 8933162)
Lewis I insist on paying you for your R&D and labor. This is America.
Originally Posted by 2Many Cars
(Post 8934445)
I'm not in on this so I'll comment as a third party. Lewis, you are being way too kind. From past experience I know that whenever someone tries to charge the exact cost on something like this he/she ends up at least a few dollars short. I applaud your determination to do this for free (ex-parts cost) but you should have a small margin at least to cover the inevitable shortfall. I roughed out your parts cost at about $17 so I'd suggest just charge $20 so you're fully covered on costs, even though I personally think you should charge quite a bit more and doubt any here would mind in the slightest. JMHO.
I think it's been done before but just a suggestion, if LTC uses Starbucks we could get SB gift cards and do it that way rather than having him sell these for a profit. To be clear, I think he's being overly cautious but I respect his position of concern. Yes, I would like 1 pre-fab board, w/ enclosure & w/ term. blocks. |
I would also like to add... that there can also be an incidental cost if something doesn't work out, gets damaged, has to be re-shipped etc...
can i suggest you take the advice of 2ManyCars and Blue TTop, and round up the price.... $3 is not going to make or break anyone here... and I believe you and the owner of this forum have a good understanding.... you can just decide to make a "Rennlist Donation" if this does indeed become an issue. I previously made an "at cost" item for another board.... and... if it werent for the generosity of people who gave me DOUBLE than what I asked.... I would have taken a loss at the end of the day....yet... i was still able to ship internationally to people, etc... all for a really low "advertised" price. Thanks Paul M (and Ash) for making the list... and my standing order (which is on the list)... is for a full complete assembled box w/enclosure and terminal blocks. ps: any chance of getting a unit out this week? |
I'll take one
Adding my name to the bottom - thanks Lewis
:cheers:
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The list is 65 strong at this point. Even if Lewis were to get $20 as 2Many and Blue suggested, that's hardly reason to be concerned. Larry would not have been concerned! If it's enough, then just make it $20!
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I'm also on the list for a fully assembled box with enclosure and terminal blocks plus whatever Lewis is charging,I'm sending an extra $10 because this is above and beyond the call of duty!!!
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Count me in for a complete unassembled kit with enclosure and terminal blocks. Thanks to Lewis for taking this project on and I will happily pay a price that makes it worth your time and effort.
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Hi Lewis
I will take an A). thank so much you are a champ. Dave |
I'm still in for an asssembled one. Let me know when you know the final price so I can send you the funds. Thanks Lewis!
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Definitely would want one with the enclosure. Please upgrade my order to include that :)
Thanks everyone for all the help with tracking orders, and thanks for ltc for doing all the real work! |
Hi Lewis,
Put me in for 1 assembled box with enclosure. Thanks for taking the initiative and I would happily give an extra donation for your time and effort. |
SAI
Hello Lewis,
Please count me in for two full assemblies with enclosures and terminal blocks. Please tell me how much to send you. I'm also sending extra $$$ because this is above and beyond what is expected. Thank you so much ! Bill |
Update on the list. I don't mind updating this every day or two. It's looking like some want enclosures, some don't...and some are specifically asking for terminal blocks as well. I think it's up to Lewis to determine how granular the options he feels comfortable in carrying out for the different orders in addition to how he'd like to define what a 'default' kit should be :).
In the meantime, I'll do my best to keep the list maintained as an impromptu record keeper. Please do check your name on the list though and if there's an error, let me know and I'll correct it when the list gets updated. Perhaps for now, unless otherwise spec'd, we'll assume that a number beside your name means you want an assembled kit with an enclosure and terminal blocks? :cheers:
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Please put my name on one fully assembled kit with the enclosure. I sent a PM. Thanks a million for doing this guys.
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Could you put me down for the full kit please? Thanks so much!! Incredible family as usual!
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Please update me for 2 kits also fully assembled.
Many Thanks |
Fabulous undertaking!
I'm on the list, but please put me down for 2 fully assembled. again, thanks |
Please add me to the list for 1 fully assembled with enclosure, just in case.
Thanks in advance. Brett |
Originally Posted by flying_low
(Post 8868393)
That's correct. You would no longer see SAI errors but other CELs unrelated to SAI are still possible which is a good thing.
Lewis, By my count this morning, it looks like you have been asked to construct about 75 +/- kits for this project! This is a huge effort. Is there anyway we can assist you in doing this? We all appreciate what you have volunteered to do; but, did you expect the response to be of this magnitude? |
In for one kit please, don't care on the assembly.
Thanks! |
Please add me to the list for 1 fully assembled.
Thanks flying_low. Thanks RL |
Hey Lewis!
Please count me in for two full assemblies with enclosures and terminal blocks. Just lemmeknow how much to send you, and I'd also like to send a little more because you are going the extra mile. Cheers! |
Update (As always, if you're a recent addition, make sure I've got you down correctly :) )
I believe we're now at 73 assembled, 4 unassembled kits
|
Hi everyone,
Just a quick update. I am posting this on an iPad, from the bottom of a hole where my septic tank used to be, waiting for the new tank to arrive. Yes, I know, sh!t happens, i've got the T-shirt ... and I've learned a lot about septic systems in the past month. I will be sending the PCB files out this weekend after I do the final dimensional checks and package checks. Based on the current list, I will be ordering 100 boards, so we will get the best price. As soon as the PCB files are out for fab, I will also order the components from DigiKey and the boxes from Mouser (for those who want the enclosure...you can mount this on your own with velcro or your own box). In order to simplify things, I will probably go ahead and build all the assembled units with the wire to board terminal blocks, rather than solder wires to the PCB. This allows folks to choose their own style/size/color wires. If there is anyone who does not want the terminal blocks and must have soldered wires, please let me know how long and what type of wire and I will do my best to accommodate. Once I receive all the boards and parts, I will be able to determine the exact cost per unit (parts + shipping). I will post that information in this thread. As far as assembling and soldering, it's not big deal. It will actually be relaxing, as I've been doing this since I was a kid. Doing 1 or doing 75 really won't matter. Once assembled, I will start sending PM's so folks can provide me their shipping addresses. Inside the package will be the unit, a hardcopy of the schematic, a hardcopy of the PCB layout and a return address envelope. When you get the unit and everything is OK, just use the envelope to send payment. I am a trusting person when it comes to RL members, so I have no problem sending out the units prior to receiving payment. Sorry it's taken a bit longer than I would have liked, but between work and the septic failure, it's been "fun". |
Ok, I give in, I'll get one too. Fully assembled one please. Thanks!
-nelson:burnout: |
:bowdown:
Originally Posted by ltc
(Post 8939746)
Hi everyone,
Just a quick update. I am posting this on an iPad, from the bottom of a hole where my septic tank used to be, waiting for the new tank to arrive. Yes, I know, sh!t happens, i've got the T-shirt ... and I've learned a lot about septic systems in the past month. I will be sending the PCB files out this weekend after I do the final dimensional checks and package checks. Based on the current list, I will be ordering 100 boards, so we will get the best price. As soon as the PCB files are out for fab, I will also order the components from DigiKey and the boxes from Mouser (for those who want the enclosure...you can mount this on your own with velcro or your own box). In order to simplify things, I will probably go ahead and build all the assembled units with the wire to board terminal blocks, rather than solder wires to the PCB. This allows folks to choose their own style/size/color wires. If there is anyone who does not want the terminal blocks and must have soldered wires, please let me know how long and what type of wire and I will do my best to accommodate. Once I receive all the boards and parts, I will be able to determine the exact cost per unit (parts + shipping). I will post that information in this thread. As far as assembling and soldering, it's not big deal. It will actually be relaxing, as I've been doing this since I was a kid. Doing 1 or doing 75 really won't matter. Once assembled, I will start sending PM's so folks can provide me their shipping addresses. Inside the package will be the unit, a hardcopy of the schematic, a hardcopy of the PCB layout and a return address envelope. When you get the unit and everything is OK, just use the envelope to send payment. I am a trusting person when it comes to RL members, so I have no problem sending out the units prior to receiving payment. Sorry it's taken a bit longer than I would have liked, but between work and the septic failure, it's been "fun". |
Originally Posted by Blue TTop
(Post 8940170)
:bowdown:
Besides, assembling electronics will be much better than shoveling sh!t ... the only ones happy about the current septic situation are the dogs. |
Lewis: Larry would be proud of you!
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I believe we're now at 74 assembled, 4 unassembled kits
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If it's not too late, put me on the list for one fully assembled kit with the enclosure.
Thanks! |
It seems like a great insurance policy - please put me down for one assembled - is there any info on how/where to remit payment?
|
Originally Posted by Don Plumley
(Post 8942791)
It seems like a great insurance policy - please put me down for one assembled - is there any info on how/where to remit payment?
If everything is fine, you can use the envelope to send a check, money order, S&H Green stamps (are they even around anymore) or a Dunkin Donuts gift card ;) I will be ordering PCB's and parts to supply 100 units, so there appears still be units available. I will update the thread this weekend after I submit the order for the PCB's and electronic components. |
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Please sign me up for a fully assembled kit w/ enclosure.
Thanks so much for putting this together! :cheers: Matt |
Hi everyone,
Here is the latest weekend update ... 100 bare PCB's have been ordered from Advanced Circuits, 5 day fabrication (cheapest) with UPS GND shipping (cheapest). $376 (pcb's) + $20.64 (UPS) = 396.64 ... so less than $4.00 per bare PCB. Components to populate 100 PCB's have been ordered from Digi-Key with UPS GND shipping. $237.83 + 14.86 (MA sales tax) + 11.26 shipping, $263.95 for parts to build 100 boards. I still need to review the list put together by Ash (thank you again) in this thread and order enclosures for those who wanted these included with their order. Those will be coming from Mouser electronics (they were in stock at the cheapest price...$1.50 each or so. My bride has graciously agreed to help me with the logistics (keeping the list of who ordered how many, email/PM, printing shipping address labels on the Dymo label maker, and taking the units to post office. This is good news, since I am not able to balance a checkbook, so I know she will keep things moving smoothly. As soon as the boards and parts arrive, I will begin to start assembling boards (except for those who wanted the "Heathkit" version ... they will be bagged into kits). Again, thanks for your patience and I will keep everyone informed via this thread. We should be shipping these out in a couple of weeks. |
2 Attachment(s)
Please find attached snapshots of the schematic and PCB layout ....
You will note that the PCB carries text denoting wire colors, functions, etc. The PCB is 1.73" x 1.73" The schematic carries all the Digi-Key and manufacturer part numbers as well. |
I'm speachless and truly deeply thankful for your efforts. I'll include you in my payers - rigth after my 993's ....
Thx again. Jack
Originally Posted by ltc
(Post 8949273)
Hi everyone,
Here is the latest weekend update ... 100 bare PCB's have been ordered from Advanced Circuits, 5 day fabrication (cheapest) with UPS GND shipping (cheapest). $376 (pcb's) + $20.64 (UPS) = 396.64 ... so less than $4.00 per bare PCB. Components to populate 100 PCB's have been ordered from Digi-Key with UPS GND shipping. $237.83 + 14.86 (MA sales tax) + TBD shipping (should know when order is shipped, as they charge by exact weight at time of shipping) ... so as of now, $252.69 + shipping for parts to build 100 boards...I will update with exact shipping tomorrow night. I still need to review the list put together by Ash (thank you again) in this thread and order enclosures for those who wanted these included with their order. Those will be coming from Mouser electronics (they were in stock at the cheapest price...$1.50 each or so. My bride has graciously agreed to help me with the logistics (keeping the list of who ordered how many, email/PM, printing shipping address labels on the Dymo label maker, and taking the units to post office. This is good news, since I am not able to balance a checkbook, so I know she will keep things moving smoothly. As soon as the boards and parts arrive, I will begin to start assembling boards (except for those who wanted the "Heathkit" version ... they will be bagged into kits). Again, thanks for your patience and I will keep everyone informed via this thread. We should be shipping these out in a couple of weeks. |
Oct. 16 update
Sunday update.
Thanks again for the update Lewis....and for the generosity of time in assembling, organizing, and shipping these out.
|
Thank you again Ash for keeping the list updated.
I have entered your latest list above into Excel and have 79 assembled units requested, 4 kit (unassembled "Heathkit" units requested) ... 83 total and 2 requests for plastic enclosures. At 83 total, I should still have parts for 17 additional requests. If everyone could just please check Ash's list above and correct any mistakes, that would be great. I would really feel bad for someone to order an assembled unit and get a bag of parts instead .... or rob someone who ordered the kit version the "thrill of soldering" . |
Hi --
If it's not too late, I'd love to get two assembled kits. Thanks so much for putting this together -- really epitomizes the rennlist spirit! |
Originally Posted by Ash
(Post 8949491)
Sunday update.
Thanks again for the update Lewis....and for the generosity of time in assembling, organizing, and shipping these out.
|
Looking back at the thread, some people indicated that they were interested in the assembled board prior to Lewis' addtion that the enclosures could be optional.
Also, unless otherwise specified below, it is assumed you want an assembled kit. I believe that Lewis is going with terminal blocks as standard. I have updated the list with a note for those that have specifically asked for enclosures. (I also just noticed that Jim W had appeared twice in an earlier list so I've removed the duplicate) As Lewis mentioned, please check your name and request and update as necessary or post here and I'll update. Thanks, ~A
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Originally Posted by TxnBluDvl
(Post 8949507)
Hi --
If it's not too late, I'd love to get two assembled kits. Thanks so much for putting this together -- really epitomizes the rennlist spirit! Just make sure Ash gets you on the list. |
Added TxnBluDvl... :)
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Lewis
I am in for two as well,just in case.How do you want payment? Thanks |
Originally Posted by mpgandco
(Post 8951509)
Lewis
I am in for two as well,just in case.How do you want payment? Thanks Just a suggestion Lewis, you might want to bold the paragraph with the pmt. info. |
Lewis, I am currently on the list for two, Can you add assembled for both for mine. Thanks John
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Originally Posted by 993BillW
(Post 8951611)
See post # 147 for payment details.....
Just a suggestion Lewis, you might want to bold the paragraph with the pmt. info. |
Originally Posted by C4SJOHN
(Post 8951614)
Lewis, I am currently on the list for two, Can you add assembled for both for mine. Thanks John
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Monday noon update - Please review your preferences :)
Quick reminders: 1) unless otherwise noted, it assumed you are asking for an assembled kit. 2) enclosures are optional - feel free to update/ Post a reply/ PM and I'll update the list if you are looking for an enclosure. Payment Info posted by Lewis (from post #147): Once assembled, I will start sending PM's so folks can provide me their shipping addresses. Inside the package will be the unit, a hardcopy of the schematic, a hardcopy of the PCB layout and a return address envelope. When you get the unit and everything is OK, just use the envelope to send payment. I am a trusting person when it comes to RL members, so I have no problem sending out the units prior to receiving payment.
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Lewis
tonypai 1 + enclosure Thanks again for putting this together. |
As of this post/date, if I entered the information correctly into my spreadsheet, we have 84 assembled units, 4 "Heathkit" kits and 32 plastic enclosures.
That makes 88 out of 99 PCB's spoken for, so there are 11 more available. Again, the unit will be offered as an assembled unit with terminal blocks to connect the wires of your choice (I have done all the soldering) and a "Heathkit" (where you get a bare board and all the parts, so you can build/solder it yourself). Plastic enclosures can be included with either one. In case anyone missed it, here is a link to the plastic box (small, easy to mount) that the board will fit into http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...mIxZS2NA%3d%3d Back on 9/21, there were 323 in stock. They are now out of stock and due back in on 10/20. So as soon as the list is closed, I will order the boxes and have them available when the rest of the components arrive (sometime next week...I am waiting for a confirmed ship date from Advanced Circuits) |
Thank you Lewis! I'd like to get the enclosure too, it looks very nice and discrete.
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+ Enclosure for me too please! :cheers:
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Hi all, I'm looking at buying a 993 in the near future but i'm sticking to a 1995 due do all the SAI issued related to the 1996 plus years..Would the item (Board) you guys are talking about fix the problem...I tried to read the thread, but got confused..Thanks...
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Latest updates (GRINBOB, Paul M, Ilko, tonypai)
Quick reminders: 1) unless otherwise noted, it assumed you are asking for an assembled kit. 2) enclosures are optional - feel free to update/ Post a reply/ PM and I'll update the list if you are looking for an enclosure. Payment Info posted by Lewis (from post #147): Once assembled, I will start sending PM's so folks can provide me their shipping addresses. Inside the package will be the unit, a hardcopy of the schematic, a hardcopy of the PCB layout and a return address envelope. When you get the unit and everything is OK, just use the envelope to send payment. I am a trusting person when it comes to RL members, so I have no problem sending out the units prior to receiving payment.
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Mr. Ash, wonderful job keeping the list up to date. We should change your title to "Keeper of the List"!
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1 plus enclosure
Thanks for doing this Lewis :cheers: |
Please update mine to 2 + enclosures.
AW21 - Andy Thx! |
Hello. Please include me for 2 un assembled kits and 2 enclosures. I just finished touching up my cab controller cold soldered connections, so I'm feeling lucky.
Thanks Lewis for your time and effort! Jeff '98 993 C2 Cab red/tan 'the family Porsche' daily driver '55 550 Vintage Spyder silver/blue 1776 4discs wide5s (for sale soon, maybe) |
Would like to add an enclosure to my order, #13 on the list. Thanks so much for doing this!
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Having only just discovered this thread, I am yet again amazed by the spirit and altruism of its members. I hope that I am not too late to put my name on the list for a module plus enclosure. I am a Canadian member, but can provide a US shipping address. Can we also agree on a price which pays our fearsome electronics whiz for his valiant effort?
Yours with the usual problem Richard Lee |
Also her for #23 - if the enclosure is not already included in a full assembled versin I would like to add 2 of it - if possible.
Thx Jack - and again thx for the great effort. |
Originally Posted by Richard Lee
(Post 8954983)
Having only just discovered this thread, I am yet again amazed by the spirit and altruism of its members. I hope that I am not too late to put my name on the list for a module plus enclosure. I am a Canadian member, but can provide a US shipping address. Can we also agree on a price which pays our fearsome electronics whiz for his valiant effort?
Yours with the usual problem Richard Lee I will be shipping via US Postal Service, since it should be the cheapest. As for the price, it will be the cost of the parts (PCB + components) + actual shipping. I am keeping all of the costs posted in this thread for the 100 unit build. I am not doing this to make a profit. All of the costs are posted in this thread. IIRC, we are still under $10 per unit (~$4 PCB, ~$3 parts plus ~$1.50 enclosure) so add to those numbers whatever USPS first class would be (need to weigh the first one and then get the smallest envelope possible) + a trip to Staples to buy a roll of Dymo shipping labels (I have a Dymo LabelWriter which will make labels quick and easy) and a box of small shipping envelopes. I will probably need to order a roll of solder as well ! |
As of this post my spreadsheet shows 85 assembled units, 7 "Heathkit" units and 43 plastic enclosures.
That means 92 PCB's have been spoken for....7 more and then there are no more. DigiKey UPS tracking shows parts being delivered to my home next Monday. The PCB should be shipping next Monday (need to confirm once they're ready to ship). Plastic boxes will be ordered last, since they should be in stock on 10/20. |
I'll take an assembled unit
Dan |
Tuesday Update (beagling, AW21, Jscanavan, tbil, Richard Lee, tropheus, dbog, slapshot)
Edit: added update for 600RR Quick reminders: 1) unless otherwise noted, it's assumed you are asking for an assembled unit. 2) enclosures are optional - feel free to update/ Post a reply/ PM and I'll update the list if you are looking for an enclosure. Payment Info posted by Lewis (from post #147): Once assembled, I will start sending PM's so folks can provide me their shipping addresses. Inside the package will be the unit, a hardcopy of the schematic, a hardcopy of the PCB layout and a return address envelope. When you get the unit and everything is OK, just use the envelope to send payment. I am a trusting person when it comes to RL members, so I have no problem sending out the units prior to receiving payment.
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Ash,
I have received PM requests for the following additional units. Could you please add these to your list above (thank you for the color coding of the kits vs assembled) bootman30 1 assembled mpgandco 2 assembled + enclosure 77'3.6vram 3 assembled + enclosure Also, I think at this point all of the avaialble parts (100 ordered) have been spoken for, so once these members are added, I think the list should be closed. |
I am on the list for one at number 28 but could you add an enclosure?
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*Edit- Wed. night - added efong and fullbooker - enclosures for both
This list is now closed - pending final count. Please check the list for your name and your order. :) Quick reminders: 1) unless otherwise noted, it's assumed you are asking for an assembled unit. 2) enclosures are optional - feel free to update/ Post a reply/ PM and I'll update the list if you are looking for an enclosure. Payment Info posted by Lewis (from post #147): Once assembled, I will start sending PM's so folks can provide me their shipping addresses. Inside the package will be the unit, a hardcopy of the schematic, a hardcopy of the PCB layout and a return address envelope. When you get the unit and everything is OK, just use the envelope to send payment. I am a trusting person when it comes to RL members, so I have no problem sending out the units prior to receiving payment.
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Thanks again for doing this. Please update me to one fully assembled + enclosure (#18)
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I am on the list for one unit and would like to get the enclosure, if possible.
Thanks again for doing this! Phil |
As of now, 19 October 2011, 7:15PM, based on Ash's list above, we are at 100 units..
91 assembled, 9 kits, 53 enclosures. Based on the fact that I ordered parts for exactly 100, I think we are definitely going to have to close the list. |
Just received an email from Advanced Circuits:
Part Number 993 PCBs have shipped from Advanced Circuits! Waiting for UPS tracking # tonight. DigiKey has already shipped the components, expected delivery is Monday, so the boards should be right behind them. Now that the list is closed, I can get a final total on plastic enclosures and get those on order. |
Awesome. Great news Lewis.
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Ahhhh crap..... too late? :banghead:
Well, if there is anyone out there with second thoughts, or will have an extra let me know i would like a fully assembled one with an enclosure..... I guess I am officially #1 on the 'Waiting List'.... unless Ash, in the unlikely chance, miscalculated by one?... I can only hope. |
Update:
Parts arrived from DigiKey today. PCB's are scheduled to arrive on Wednesday. I need to update my spreadsheet against the master list from Ash and then order enclosures from Mouser. With any luck, assembly will start late next week and into the weekend. I will probably do an electrical functional test on the units once assembled (apply 12V, verify that the 4 output FETs conduct). Things are moving along .... |
Originally Posted by DryFly
(Post 8962648)
Ahhhh crap..... too late? :banghead:
Well, if there is anyone out there with second thoughts, or will have an extra let me know i would like a fully assembled one with an enclosure..... I guess I am officially #1 on the 'Waiting List'.... unless Ash, in the unlikely chance, miscalculated by one?... I can only hope. It is approximately $350 to run a couple of panels, so essentially you pay $350 for 100 boards or $350 for 5 boards. So unless we get another 100 people, the unit price would be higher; the exact amount would be based on the total number ordered (earlier in this thread I posted the prices for 25, 50, 100 pcs ....) |
Hi Lewis...
I'm #37 on your list, and if possible I would like to add the enclosure please. Thanks! _____________ '97 Blk/Blk C2S |
Please add an enclosure to #74. Thanks for the flexability on ordering.
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If not too late, please add 2 ea. enclosures to #20. If too late, no problem. Again, sincere thanks for both your efforts. They are very much appreciated.
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Edit: According to Lewis, there is still some time to add enclosures so I'm editing the list for those that have asked for them. (In this round, I've added enclosures for: Richard W, Don't Lift, Dbog, and NC Trackrat)
This list is now closed - pending final count. Please check the list for your name and your order. :) Quick reminders: 1) unless otherwise noted, it's assumed you are asking for an assembled unit. 2) enclosures are optional - feel free to update/ Post a reply/ PM and I'll update the list if you are looking for an enclosure. Payment Info posted by Lewis (from post #147): Once assembled, I will start sending PM's so folks can provide me their shipping addresses. Inside the package will be the unit, a hardcopy of the schematic, a hardcopy of the PCB layout and a return address envelope. When you get the unit and everything is OK, just use the envelope to send payment. I am a trusting person when it comes to RL members, so I have no problem sending out the units prior to receiving payment.
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Hi Ash
please include an enclosure with my order and many thanks to you and Lewis Dave |
number 40...
please add enclosure, thanks! |
Just found this, crap. Too late. If anyone cancels or there is a second run please put me on the wait list. Teaches me to just cruise the turbo forum.
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I have no problem starting a second list or producing more units.
It is a simple matter to reorder material, as the design is already done; the only issue would be the price per unit, which is solely a function of how many PCB's are ordered. Please see earlier in the thread for the PCB unit costs when ordering 25, 50 or 100. |
Just let me know how much and where to send the money!
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If it's not too late, I would like the enclosure as well. Or whatever version of the kit that is the most complete possible. I'm not an electrician, so the less assembly for me the better. Many thanks again.
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Edit: Added 2nd List request from lizSter, added enclosures for TxnBluDvl (don't know if Lewis has ordered enclosures already or not)
This list for the first round of boards is now closed. I've started a Waiting/Back-up list below for those that missed this first run. Quick reminders: 1) unless otherwise noted, it's assumed you are asking for an assembled unit. 2) enclosures are optional - feel free to update/ Post a reply/ PM and I'll update the list if you are looking for an enclosure. Payment Info posted by Lewis (from post #147): Once assembled, I will start sending PM's so folks can provide me their shipping addresses. Inside the package will be the unit, a hardcopy of the schematic, a hardcopy of the PCB layout and a return address envelope. When you get the unit and everything is OK, just use the envelope to send payment. I am a trusting person when it comes to RL members, so I have no problem sending out the units prior to receiving payment.
Backup/Waiting/2nd Round List
|
I would like one of the enclosue as well if/when I can get one.
Thanks, Eric |
If any enclosure are available, I would like to added them to my order also. Thanks. John
|
Note to self: READ THE DAMNED STICKIES!:banghead:
Can I be put on a list if this goes two rounds? I'd like 2 fully assembled with the enclosures and anything else to make it complete. Lewis, this is more than generous.:bowdown: |
Here is the PCB pricing from post #107 ....
$28.26 each for qty 10 $11.94 each for qty 25 $6.50 each for qty 50 $3.78 each for qty 100 Again, I don't mind doing a second round. If there aren't 100, they will just cost a bit more than the first round. Or if someone would like to go it "on their own" , I will gladly provide the schematic and artwork files. |
If we can get the waiting list to at least 10, I am in! Thank you Lewis.
Thanks again.
(edit: Thanks Bill) |
Originally Posted by DryFly
(Post 8972285)
Sorry about the spelling LEWIS. But I cannot seem to correct spelling in the title line.
Thanks again. |
Originally Posted by DryFly
(Post 8972285)
Sorry about the spelling LEWIS. But I cannot seem to correct spelling in the title line.
Thanks again. Again, I don't mind a second round. I just want to avoid confusion or issues regarding the possibility for the 2nd round units to be more expensive than the 1st round units, simply due to the number ordered. I am charging exactly what these cost, I post the actual prices for the parts + shipping. |
I would also take a kit.
97 993 |
Round 2 List: See Ash's current list at post #212
Yes Lewis, we understand that the cost is greater this round. Thats just the way it goes for us that are slow at the switch! It is still cheap at this price.
Lets get to at least 10! $28.26/ each (or so) Thank You, this is very generous of you. |
Originally Posted by DryFly
(Post 8975543)
Yes Lewis, we understand that the cost is greater this round. Thats just the way it goes for us that are slow at the switch! It is still cheap at this price.
Lets get to at least 10! $28.26/ each (or so) Thank You, this is very generous of you. So the major cost of a second round (less than 100) will be the PCB. |
If it's still possible could I get an enclosure? Number 44 on list. Thanks a bunch for everything.
|
Kraftsman - done :)
I've been updating the list in post #212 so please check. :cheers: |
I would love to have an assmebled unit with enclosure. You guys are the best!
|
Hi Tom...added. :)
|
Update:
PCB's have been received from Advanced Circuits. (unfortunately UPS delivered them to the wrong house, so it wasn't until my neighbor came over this morning did I finally have them). Now that the list seems to be settling for plastic enclosures, I will add them up this weekend and place the order this weekend. If it takes me 10-15 minutes to solder all the components onto one PCB, that's 4-5/hour, so about 20-25 hours of assembly for 100 units (hopefully I can do it a bit quicker)....that means if i can get a few hours each night, I should have them ready to go in about a week or so. I will keep supplying updates as I go along. As soon as they start rolling off the "assembly line", I will start asking for PMs with shipping addresses. Then my bride will take over the logistics department! |
Lewis-
Dumb question: Although it's probably a remote possibility, can you think of any way to do a simple QA test on the assembled board to ensure that there are no faulty components? |
As I mentioned earlier in this thread, I would simply apply 12v to the input (blue/grey) and verify each FET is conducting...use a DMM on Ohms or equivalent.
The circuit is fairly basic. |
As of this morning, I checked my spreadsheet against Ash's master list from post # 212.
We have 90 assembled units, 9 "Heathkits" (kind of nice surprise) and 63 enclosures. I will probably assemble the first unit tonight and run some quick checks on the bench to verify it performs per the schematic (this will be simply done by applying 12V, then measuring that the output FETs have turned "ON" .... then removing 12V and measuring that the output FETs are "OFF". This can be done with a 12V battery (actually you could use a 9V battery as well) and a hand held meter). Once everything looks OK, then "mass production" will begin. I am going to contact the local post office to ask them to order 100 of the USPS Priority Mail boxes. It seems like the quickest/easiest way to send the units out to everyone at a flat fixed rate. |
Originally Posted by DryFly
(Post 8972285)
Thanks again.
(edit: Thanks Bill) |
Unit #1 has been assembled and electrically tested.
It's Alive ! http://images.fanpop.com/images/imag...30_340_255.jpg Always concerned that something happens with library symbols, net list transfer, fab files, etc, but everything went perfectly. So, 90 assembled units, 44 solder joints per unit ... Let the fun begin :cheers: |
Originally Posted by ltc
(Post 8981853)
Unit #1 has been assembled and electrically tested.
Always concerned that something happens with library symbols, net list transfer, fab files, etc, but everything went perfectly. So, 90 assembled units, 44 solder joints per unit ... Let the fun begin :cheers: |
for what it's worth, I'm trying an experiment with a 4 pole relay that I had lying around that has a 12V coil - it's not as light weight as solid state, but it's another approach to do the same thing. It will be interesting to see if this works for most people
|
hi,
I'd like to be added to the waiting list for 1 assembled with enclosure. thanks much! |
I'd like to hear others report that this method of shorting the O2 sensor outputs to a single ground work to clear the SAI fault - if it does, I wonder why the relay approach doesn't seem to work - the CEL is on still after 4 or 5 drive cycles.
|
Ack! Just got back from a week of business travel without real internet connectivity and noticed that there's been discussion of enclosures.
If it's not too late to get my two with enclosures, I'd love to get them too. Sorry for being late to the party! |
Added TxnBluDvl's request for enclosures - not sure if Lewis has already ordered them prior to your request
Also added LizSter's request to be put on the 2nd round list. See Post #212 for list updates. |
think i figured out why the relay wasn't doing the trick one contact pair must be not closing, I can see normal voltages on one O2 sensor - maybe that's next week's troubleshooting.
|
Wow...this is more of what I get for having been deployed...is it too late?
Would love two assembled w/enclosures! Thanks. ~Dave |
Hi! If possible I whould like to be added to the list.
1 assembled w/enclosure. |
Added: added Michael993's request for enclosures, added Deadeye to 2nd Round list
This list for the first round of boards is now closed. I've started a Waiting/Back-up list below for those that missed this first run. Quick reminders: 1) unless otherwise noted, it's assumed you are asking for an assembled unit. 2) enclosures are optional - feel free to update/ Post a reply/ PM and I'll update the list if you are looking for an enclosure. Payment Info posted by Lewis (from post #147): Once assembled, I will start sending PM's so folks can provide me their shipping addresses. Inside the package will be the unit, a hardcopy of the schematic, a hardcopy of the PCB layout and a return address envelope. When you get the unit and everything is OK, just use the envelope to send payment. I am a trusting person when it comes to RL members, so I have no problem sending out the units prior to receiving payment.
Backup/Waiting/2nd Round List
|
Update:
45 units assembled (half way!) 9 kits bagged Once the last 45 units are assembled, I will electrically test each one and then we can begin shipping. I will make a trip to my local post office with an assembled unit and a plastic enclosure to see what the cost would be for first class mail (in a 6x9 manilla envelope) vs Priority Mail Small Flat Rate box ($5.20). 66 enclosures (based on Ash's list and my spreadsheet) and screws (for cover and PCB...need to order in packs of 100, so I ordered 2 of each) have been ordered today from Mouser. In stock and will ship USPS Priority Mail (cheaper than UPS or FedEx). Total for 66 enclosures + 200 PCB mounting screws + 200 cover screws was $117.62 + 7.35 tax + 14.99 shipping = $139.96 Here is a link to the enclosures: http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...y546-1551RFLGY Here is a link to the PCB mounting screws: http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...546-1551ATS100 Here is a link to the enclosure cover screws: http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...y546-1591TS100 I bought the screws so everyone doesn't have to run to Lowes or Home Depot looking for the right size. It should add about $0.25 to each order, which I thought was OK. Update: just received email that the enclosures and screws have shipped... About 4 hours after ordering. |
Definitely a "class act"! A work of art like this deserves recognition. Please sign or initialize and number each creation somehow, perhaps inside or outside the enclosure.
|
75 units assembled.
Hope to complete assembly and electrical test this week...:typing: |
Please add me to the list for 2 assembled units with enclosures. After years of dealing with SAI bullxxxx it will give me great joy to finally slay this EPA dragon. Lewis, I hereby formally nominate you for sainthood. :cheers:
|
Ash,
please add enclosures to my 2 thank you, this is so cool! Michael |
Finally ... daylight
1 Attachment(s)
After a marathon weekend assembly session (locked in basement listening to Stevie Ray Vaughn), they're built. 90 assembled units, 9 bagged 'Heathkit' units (the kit versions will also include a small roll of solder as well).
I will do electrical test this week (at night after work) on each of the assembled units. The enclosures are due in this week as well. I also need to print out 99 hardcopies of the schematic and 99 hardcopies of the PCB, so folks have them as a reference. On the schematic are all the DigiKey part numbers. These hardcopies will be with each shipment. Once that is done, I will post for folks to start sending me (via PM) their mailing address information. My bride (who has graciously volunteered to help with logistics) will then print out address labels on the Dymo LabelWriter. She will also print out return address labels and fix them to envelopes, which will be included with each shipment to make sending payment easier. She is also going to take a unit to the post office this week to see if there is a cheaper way to send these besides $5.20 Priority Mail Small Box flat rate. At that point, she can add up all the bills (PCB's, parts, envelopes/labels/shipping) and come up with the final actual cost to date for 99 units. I should have an update sometime this week . Here is a pic of the units awaiting test ... |
:thumbup: and a very sincere Thank You!
|
Added Michael993's request for enclosures and Deadeye's addition to 2nd round list.
Lewis...that picture of all those boards is a thing of beauty. Thanks again for doing all this heavy lifting...wow! ~A |
Originally Posted by Ash
(Post 9003354)
Added Michael993's request for enclosures and Deadeye's addition to 2nd round list.
Lewis...that picture of all those boards is a thing of beauty. Thanks again for doing all this heavy lifting...wow! ~A Unfortunately, the order for the enclosures had already been placed/shipped before the request for 2 additional enclosures. |
You are AMAZING Sir ! :cheers:
Emerald |
Originally Posted by ltc
(Post 9003413)
Hi Ash,
Unfortunately, the order for the enclosures had already been placed/shipped before the request for 2 additional enclosures. I suppose we could add Michael993's enclosure request to the second list or he could place the order directly with the distributor? |
I would like to get on the second round list:
4 units, assembled with enclosures. |
Originally Posted by Ash
(Post 9004277)
Thanks Lewis...suspected that might be the case.
I suppose we could add Michael993's enclosure request to the second list or he could place the order directly with the distributor? I have posted links in this thread (enclosures were obtained from Mouser, all other electronic components were obtained from DigiKey). I also have no issues providing the schematic and PCB files, so anyone could arrange to have PCB's fabricated and assemble their own units, since the design work has been done. As for the second list, I have no issues with a second run. The exact cost would depend on the # of units in that order, since it is pretty much a flat charge for PCB fabrication (again, those costs have been posted in this thread as well). It will be up to the members. |
Added: added coreseller and boostid to 2nd round list, changed Tom97C4S's order to 2 + enclosures
This list for the first round of boards is now closed. I've started a Waiting/Back-up list below for those that missed this first run. Quick reminders: 1) unless otherwise noted, it's assumed you are asking for an assembled unit. 2) enclosures are optional - feel free to update/ Post a reply/ PM and I'll update the list if you are looking for an enclosure. Payment Info posted by Lewis (from post #147): Once assembled, I will start sending PM's so folks can provide me their shipping addresses. Inside the package will be the unit, a hardcopy of the schematic, a hardcopy of the PCB layout and a return address envelope. When you get the unit and everything is OK, just use the envelope to send payment. I am a trusting person when it comes to RL members, so I have no problem sending out the units prior to receiving payment.
Backup/Waiting/2nd Round List
|
Can't wait! Thank you for doing this.
|
Ash,
Please revise the order for earossi to include the assembled kit in the enclosure. Thanks. |
I know I am late geting to this thread but I would surely like to be on the second list for the part and enclosures, etc. I had a 993 previously and am currently looking to purchase another if I can find a 98 993 Targa. I had one that had the dreaded CEL issue due to the SAI - it was fixed under warranty by the PO that I purchased from. It had the valve guides replaced as well - shouldn't have sold that car but that's another story. I am getting in late - what is the process - do you mail them individually or no? Sorry for asking and this is just an unreal thing that you are doing Lewis. I am amazed at this effort for such a problem on the 993.
|
Midweek update ....
Minor issue with the electrolytic capacitor hitting the cover of the enclosure....my bad, it is about 1-2 mm too tall using the standard 11mm height cap I chose. Minor issue with one of the PCB mounting holes not quite lining up with one if the 2 mounting bosses in the enclosure. Won't be an issue. The enclosures look very nice and are small which should allow for easy mounting. New (shorter) cap has already been ordered/shipped and as soon as they arrive I will swap them out and finish electrical test. I will drill out one of the 2 mounting holes to line up, even though one mounting screw is sufficient to mount the PCB to the enclosure bottom. Sorry for the short delay...I need to work on my metric addition and mechanical skills ;) |
If/when there is a second run, please put me down for two complete units with enclosures. No particular rush.
Can't say "thanks" enough to Flying_Low and Lewis for design and production as well as the others who offered their knowledge and expertise. |
This is what happens when you don't pay attention to stickies!!!
Lewis...I am in no rush...but if there is another run I will take two assembled units with enclosures. Thanks for doing this!!! I just did the port flush and it was the least fun job I have ever done!! |
Of course I'm late! Damn. If there is another run of these, I'd sure like to get in on this.
So please put me down on the waiting list for 2 units, fully assembled with enclosures. I'm in complete agreement with other posters; Lewis should be recommended for sainthood. And thank you! Ash for keeping the List. Mike '96 993c2 |
I'd like to have my name added to the 2nd round list for one assembled and with the enclosure. Thanks.
GC |
Please put me down for the 2nd round if there is one. I'll go the kit route with enclosure. Thanks!
|
Update,
UPS did not deliver the new (shorter) caps in time for this weekend :grr: Now scheduled for delivery end of business day on Monday. Once I have them, I will install and test the boards. Sorry for the delay... |
Update for those on the waiting list/2nd round.
Per the PCB pricing (bare board) in post 107 of this thread... $11.94 each for 25 pcs $6.50 each for 50 pcs $3.78 each for 100 pcs We are at 25 people. I don't know if we will get to 100, so the 2nd round cost might be higher than the first. I will leave it up to the members to decide when to place the 2nd order and if that price is acceptable. Again, i am charging cost for the materials and shipping, nothing more. |
Lewis, speaking for me, I'm not in a hurry so I can wait for 50 or 100. Others may have a CEL currently and need them ASAP. Perhaps someone from the 1st order could help out such a fellow renlister in need. I think over time another 100 will be wanted as more of us READ THE STICKY!!!!! From my perspective you could easily charge $50.00 and no one would complain. :bowdown:
|
Lewis and Ash, thank you for the work. Been a Porsche owner for many years, a 993 owner for a few weeks now. Please ad me to your list for an assembled unit with enclosure for your next batch........Mark.
|
Much thanks and appreciation to Lewis and Ash.
Please include me on the second list for an assembled unit with enclosure. Are the instructions clear enough for an idiot to install this? Thanks again |
Can my order br changed to 2 units with enclosures instead of 1?
Thanks |
List has been updated in Post #256
|
They're finally finished
The first batch is finally complete.
Just completed electrically testing each unit, 100% of them passed, no defects or defective components found. Then each one was washed in flux remover (my hands will be white for a few days...) and dried. My bride went by the post office. The most economical way to ship these out is first class mail, in a 6x9" manilla clasp envelope. The post office weighed a sample and said $1.75. This is much better than $5.20 for Priority Mail IMHO. She went by Staples and picked up a box of 100 manilla 6x9 envelopes. I have printed out 100 copies of the schematic and half of the 100 copies of the PCB artwork (uses a lot of ink!), I hope to finish the rest tomorrow. I've lost track of time with these things. Even something as simple as electrically testing each one, if it takes 1-2 minutes .... times 100 units .... I apologize for it taking this long, but it has been a lot of hours behind the scenes. |
Shipping Information Requests
Hi,
Now that they are ready to find new homes, I would appreciate it if everyone on the master list kept by Ash (thank you again) would send me a PM with the following information: Rennlist user ID Name Street Address City, State, Zipcode My bride will sort thru all the PM's, print out mailing labels on the Dymo LabelWriter, and then pack each 6x9 envelope with the requested items, schematic and PCB hardcopy. She will also include a self addressed return envelope for mailing payment (check, money order, cash, Dunkin Donuts gift card, S&H green stamps) once you have received the units. For those who requested enclosures, I will try and include an extra screw or two...they're small and I am sure one will be dropped or lost by someone along the way! I think I bought enough to allow for this. As to the final cost, now that we have shipping info and materials purchased, she will add up all of the costs to date (parts, PCB, shipping, misc materials (envelopes, labels, etc) and then divide by 100. That will be the actual cost per unit. We should have that done in the next few nights. |
For those of you who ordered the DIY "Heathkit" version, I need to type up a quick little document to aid in the assembly. This will be included in the 6x9 envelope along with the schematic and PCB artwork hardcopies.
Due to the nature of polarity sensitive components (the bussed resistor array, diodes, electrolytic cap, etc), I just want to include a little note to eliminate assembly errors. Each kit includes a small roll of solder, sufficient to build a unit with solder to spare. I will also try and include a small piece of Soder Wick (desoldering braid) in case of an error during assembly. I should have some down in my workshop, I just have to dig thru some drawers. |
Lewis,
I just added my name. Thank you again for your work and support of 993 owners. Gary |
Lewis, you have a PM with shipping information you requested. Thanks
|
Hello Lewis -
Please sign me up - round 2 - for the "whole enchilada" (assembled / enclosure etc). I'm in no hurry, and as so many others have already stated - Many thanks for your efforts! |
If you can add me to the second round as well, that would be great. Entire kid with enclosure if possible.
Cheers, Mike |
Moving this list to a new page to track easier
Added: updated GD993C4 This list for the first round of boards is now closed. I've started a Waiting/Back-up list below for those that missed this first run. Quick reminders: 1) unless otherwise noted, it's assumed you are asking for an assembled unit. 2) enclosures are optional - feel free to update/ Post a reply/ PM and I'll update the list if you are looking for an enclosure. Payment Info posted by Lewis (from post #147): Once assembled, I will start sending PM's so folks can provide me their shipping addresses. Inside the package will be the unit, a hardcopy of the schematic, a hardcopy of the PCB layout and a return address envelope. When you get the unit and everything is OK, just use the envelope to send payment. I am a trusting person when it comes to RL members, so I have no problem sending out the units prior to receiving payment.
Backup/Waiting/2nd Round List
|
Lewis - As requested I just sent you a PM with my shipping info. Thanks again for doing this!
|
Lewis,
You should now have my address information. Thanks. Ernie |
Lewis, just sent you a PM with shipping information you requested.
Many Thanks |
Final cost summary for 100 units: $10.74 each
Hi everyone,
Here is the final financial accounting for the first 100 units. The breakdown for 100 units is as follows: 6x9 shipping envelopes $12.00 (Staples) 6 3/4 return envelopes $7.50 (Staples) DymoLabelwriter labels $26.00 (Staples) Paper/Ink $25.00 (Staples) Postage $175.00 (USPS First Class 6x9 small parcel) PCB's $397.00 (Advanced Circuits) Electronics $291.50 (DigiKey) Enclosures/Screws $140.00 (Mouser) Total: $1074 If anyone is interested, I can find a scanner and post invoices and receipts. It was right around this time when my bride looked at me and asked how much I am adding for my design and fabrication time. I kept my head down and pretended to cough. She then asked that people are going to send money before you send the units out, right? I kept my head down and muttered No, they're RL members, I trust them. She then laughed and asked "tell me again why I married you and why I've stayed with you for 30 years?" Yup, head down. I know why I asked her to marry me, but I'll be damned if I can answer her on this one...:D In summary, each unit cost $10.74 to fabricate and ship. I have tried to keep the unit cost as low as possible. |
16 November shipping list -- 19 units
Hi,
The following RL members' orders have been packaged and are going to the post office tomorrow morning: Aircooled Dave tonypai fullbooker Shahrams tbil Ash C4SJOHN Jeff96-993 Kaefer Don't Lift M Fig Blue TTop earossi Teddy2 TxnBluDvl mpgandco Jscanavan 77'3.6vram GRINBOB These have been shipped based on first come/first served receipt of PM's with shipping info for those who are on the first list. Please watch your mailbox for a 6x9 manila envelope from Massachusetts. 20 per night is about the limit that I think my wife and I can do. Please try and be patient as we work thru the list. It took us about 2.5 hours to get these ready. It sounds like a long time, but 2.5 hours is 150 minutes, divided by 20 orders = 7.5 minutes per order. Each order needs an address label printed, return address envelope printed and inserted, schematic and PCB layout inserted, enclosure + screws prepared (I have put the PCB inside the enclosure along with hardware to help protect it during shipping)....so 7.5 minutes is what it takes once we get rolling. Again, inside each 6x9 envelope is your order, a schematic, PCB layout and a return address envelope. If you ordered an enclosure, the screws are inside the enclosure. If you ordered a "Heathkit", all the components are inside a Ziploc snack bag. Please check to make sure you get everything out of the envelope. All units have been 100% electrically tested, so hopefully there are no issues when they arrive to you. |
Lewis
On behalf of everyone.....THANK YOU!!!! Tony |
Can you please add me to the waiting list for one complete kit with enclosure.
Thanks very much! |
Fantastic! Looks like my kit will be mailed to me sometime this week. In prepping for the installation, I went back and re-read this entire posting. Early on, someone speculated that the firmware design for the 97 and 98 model 993's might be different from the earlier 993's and that the CPU might be looking for a "change" in voltage rather than a drop to zero. There were several messages exchanged on this bit of speculation; but, no solution mentioned, though Lewis thought that it would be a simple redesign of the circuit that is currently being fabricated.
So, I have a couple of questions: 1. How long will it take to experience a "failure" of the device to prevent a fault code and CEL trip? Will I see the failure instantaneously? 2. How difficult will the redesign be and will it be a modification to the existing circuits installed for this test? Or, would it be better to get a newly wired assembly? Just trying to anticipate the worst case scenario since the posters seemed to understand the technology but were unsure of the firmware design differences. Sorry for the long post. And, for my paranoia! |
Lewis,
Thanks again to you and your wonderfull wife for your efforts. I am wondering if the two of you would accept a Starbucks gift card as a token of my appreciation on this project? Thanks, Phil |
please put me down for 2
thanks mark |
"In summary, each unit cost $10.74 to fabricate and ship. I have tried to keep the unit cost as low as possible".
Lewis Are you kidding me?I can't believe this is all you are charging us for these!!We all need to get together and send you some Costco/ Starbucks gift cards with are payments.I think if we all send Costco gift cards and everybody does it you can buy your wife something nice for Xmas.You guys in? ____________ |
Is anyone still making the SAI Bypass/Tester circuit board?
|
Originally Posted by mpgandco
(Post 9033108)
"In summary, each unit cost $10.74 to fabricate and ship. I have tried to keep the unit cost as low as possible".
Lewis Are you kidding me?I can't believe this is all you are charging us for these!!We all need to get together and send you some Costco/ Starbucks gift cards with are payments.I think if we all send Costco gift cards and everybody does it you can buy your wife something nice for Xmas.You guys in? ____________ I have about 80 hours of labor into this batch of 100 (schematic capture, PCB layout, parts selection and ordering, soldering/assembly, electrical test, PCB washing, packaging/shipping/paperwork tracking). 80 hours (4800 minutes) soundsl like a lot, but for 100 units, it comes out to about 48 minutes per unit. To be honest, I never expected so many members would be interested in such a thing. I went into this thinking I would build a few, but it became apparent early on that this was a much more useful tool for folks. (I am mechanically challenged, so I don't work on my cars, not even oil changes. I won't even be keeping one for myself) As I stated early on in this thread, I am not a RL sponsor, so I can not charge more than my costs for these units. |
Originally Posted by rbettenhauser
(Post 9033888)
Is anyone still making the SAI Bypass/Tester circuit board?
There is a "waiting list" for a second build, but as of now there is no date |
The next shipping date is this Monday (11/22).
My wife and I will be packaging up the units this Sunday for those who have sent their name/shipping address via PM since the last shipment went out. |
OK guys - here's the deal. Larry is not allowed to charge more than his cost, but we are not precluded from sending more if we wish to. So, what would be an appropriate amount? Or, we can each make that call individually, and that's OK with me.
|
Just a thought
I know Lewis can not or won't ask for a reasonable amount of money for his time doing this for all of us Rennlisters,but that does not stop us from including something extra.I will be paying him and his wife $25.00 for each of the three units he has sent me.It is the right thing to do and still a very cheep price to pay for the issue it resolves.I hope everyone will do the same.
|
Originally Posted by 600RR
(Post 9035751)
OK guys - here's the deal. Larry is not allowed to charge more than his cost, but we are not precluded from sending more if we wish to. So, what would be an appropriate amount? Or, we can each make that call individually, and that's OK with me.
Originally Posted by 77'3.6vram
(Post 9035801)
I know Lewis can not or won't ask for a reasonable amount of money for his time doing this for all of us Rennlisters,but that does not stop us from including something extra.I will be paying him and his wife $25.00 for each of the three units he has sent me.It is the right thing to do and still a very cheep price to pay for the issue it resolves.I hope everyone will do the same.
I did this for the RL 993 community simply because it's something I was able to do (I've been doing electronics since before I was 10 yrs old) and therefore felt that offering to do so was the right thing to do. My regret was simply not having enough waking hours in a day to finish these more quickly, that's all. I didn't want folks waiting or thinking I forgot. I didnt want to accept payment until the member received it and was happy with it. That is why I have tried to post regular updates. I will upload all of the design files (schematic and PCB files) so anyone else can produce these. All of the part numbers are on the schematic and the enclosure info has been posted as well. |
I recently searched regarding the dreaded SAI Check Engine light. Unfortunately, mine came on during one of the final runs of the season. If there is a second run, could you put me down for one complete unit plus enclosure?
I am completely amazed by your ability and generosity. I am anticipating sending more than the cost of the unit for your engineering ability and time that went into creating these. |
Originally Posted by scphelps1
(Post 9036038)
I am completely amazed by your ability and generosity. I am anticipating sending more than the cost of the unit for your engineering ability and time that went into creating these. |
Saturday 19 November shipments -- 11 units
Hi,
Hi, The following RL members' orders have been packaged and are going to the post office this morning skypig ppressle rdevany paul m richard w nc trackrat 600R ilko np993 amfab cmat Please watch your mailbox for a 6x9 manila envelope from Massachusetts. Have a nice weekend, |
As of this morning (19 Nov), my wife and I have mailed out all orders for which we received shipping addresses (via PM).
This leaves 1 "Heathkits" and 56 assembled units awaiting shipping address information. |
Important Info for "Heathkit" orders
For those who ordered the "Heathkit / DIY assembly" version, please note that this design contains polarity/orientation sensitive components....
Diode (Anode and Cathode marked in silkscreen) Electrolytic Cap (+ marked in silkscreen, note that the cap body has the - lead marked) Transistors (silkscreen has the body outline, just line up the flat) Please note that the 47K resistor array is a bussed array, i.e. pin 1 is common to all the resistors. This component must be installed with pin 1 (designated by a square laser etched on the part) closest to the electrolytic cap. (using a resistor array saves some space and you only install one component rather than 7 individual ones). If anyone has questions during assembly, please don't hesitate to send me a PM. |
Lewis: What is your PayPal address?
|
Originally Posted by 600RR
(Post 9036866)
Lewis: What is your PayPal address?
however, I did move up to the "no licking required" stamps and envelopes, so I am making progress. inside the 6x9 manila envelope there is a self addressed return envelope. You can use that to send payment ... cash, check, money order, coins, Dunkin Donuts or Starbucks gift cards, S&H green stamps (are they around anymore).... whatever is most convenient. |
Originally Posted by ltc
(Post 9036898)
embarassed to say I don't do paypal....I also still write paper checks rather than pay online!
however, I did move up to the "no licking required" stamps and envelopes, so I am making progress. inside the 6x9 manila envelope there is a self addressed return envelope. You can use that to send payment ... cash, check, money order, coins, Dunkin Donuts or Starbucks gift cards, S&H green stamps (are they around anymore).... whatever is most convenient. |
Originally Posted by 993BillW
(Post 9036944)
....certificate to test drive a new 2012 Cayenne......
I left Larry in the Cayenne forum (P!g Pen) while I try and attend to this thread. I am sure he is doing a fine job with crowd control, given his "people skills". |
Monday 21 November shipments -- 5 packages
The next shipment will be Monday for those addresses I have on Sunday night.
Here are the RL member orders packaged and going to the post office tomorrow Flying_low Biggdawg Efong Rsa964 993billw My wife and I have no other shipping addresses at this time. |
Finally had the SAI code. Niot sure I want to try the reaming procedure. Are there opeinings on the second run list? Thanks.
|
Originally Posted by craig001
(Post 9037767)
Finally had the SAI code. Niot sure I want to try the reaming procedure. Are there opeinings on the second run list? Thanks.
|
Lewis
Got mine today. I look forward to installing it tomorrow. Hopefully, my dumbass can make heads or tails of the electrical schematic. Thanks again. Tony |
Tony,
The schematic (notes) and PCB (silkscreen) have the colors of the wires referenced at the beginning of the thread (black, blue, grey). Please refer to the first post. The terminal blocks on the PCB accommodate a very wide variety of wire sizes and types. If you ordered a plastic enclosure, please note that I did not drill holes in it for the wires to exit the box. This is simply due to the fact that I didn't know what size folks would use, where it would be mounted and in what orientation (and the fact that I'm mechanically challenged!). |
Lewis,looks looks mine is in the mail and commig fast! Question,my check engine light is on now for the SAI...when should I clear it? Before I install the kit or after? I just use a code reader to clear it,so before or after?? Thanks Again for all your time and effort!!!!!!!!!!!!
|
Originally Posted by skypig
(Post 9039085)
Lewis,looks looks mine is in the mail and commig fast! Question,my check engine light is on now for the SAI...when should I clear it? Before I install the kit or after? I just use a code reader to clear it,so before or after?? Thanks Again for all your time and effort!!!!!!!!!!!!
I am not mechanically inclined, I just do electronics. I simply implemented the circuit. |
Received Saturday on the west coast, very impressed by the quality. Impressive assembly skills Lewis! You don't get this kind of quality (or service) out of China. Check is in the mail, no really.
Very much appreciated. |
If you have issues with Secondary Air Injection ports being blocked or you want to remove the entire SAI system from your '96 - '98. '95s have the system but the ECU does not check if the system is working correctly.
The blocked ports issue shows up as OBD errors: P0410 - Secondary Air Injection System: Malfunction P1411 - Manufacturer specific codehttp://www.newothermix.info/jh2.jpg http://www.newothermix.info/2.jpg |
Thanks Lewis!
Got my unit in the mail. I'm a little challenged regarding the wireing; could you post a few more photos, a little more step-by-step, DIY, showing which wires are attached to the unit's connections, etc?
Oh yeah, money is in the mail! Thanks, Phil |
The silkscreen on the PCB and the text comments on the schematic refer to wire colors and functions referenced by flying_low's install on the first post in this thread.
The single 2 terminal block on the left side of the board is for the switched 12V and GND inputs The four 2 terminal blocks on the right side of the board are for connections to each O2 sensor. You will note that all the GND terminals are connected together, so you can run a single GND wire if you so chose. Also, by using an individual 2 terminal block for each O2 sensor, it allows for easier wiring if you chose to run shielded/twisted pair. Again, my only contribution was to implement the circuit on a low cost PCB. I don't have any mechanical experience on the installation of the unit. |
Lewis,
I received my SAI testers today and will be sending back your envelope tomorrow or the next day. Thanks again! |
Mine arrived in the mail today! Return envelope should be in tomorrow's mail. Thanks again!
|
Hi everyone.
I have received a PM from someone on the list who was waiting for me to PM each person on the list stating that the units were beginning to ship. Rather than try and PM everyone (there is a limit of 25 recipients per PM max) individually, I instead thought that keeping this thread updated would be sufficient/ My apologies if this did not work out as intended. I just sent out 4 PM's to everyone on the first list. If you are on the first list and have already sent me your shipping information, please ignore the PM. If not, please send me a PM with: Your RL user/screen name (Ash's list was based off of these) Name Street Address City, State, Zip. Units are shipping in a 6x9 manilla envelope via USPS First Class parcel post. Inside each envelope will be a self addressed return envelope. Please use this to send payment (cash, check, money order, Starbucks or Dunkin Donuts coffee gift cards, etc....whatever is most convenient) I have sent a couple of units to Canada; I merely have to fill out a customs declaration form at the post office and pay some additional shipping. It seems as though the transit time has been pretty good so far, about 3-5 days in the US. I would like to get these all shipped well before the start of the holiday shipping rush to help avoid lost packages. Regards, |
Lewis, Got your PM and PM'ed you back. Sorry, been out of RL for while busy with work and crap. Thanks for doing this!!! Look forward to the tester!
|
Lewis, received your PM and PM'd you back. It is the 2nd PM and I am not sure you received the first one from last week.
Please check and let me know if you received the Name and address information. Many Thanks |
Originally Posted by Shahrams
(Post 9042943)
Lewis, received your PM and PM'd you back. It is the 2nd PM and I am not sure you received the first one from last week.
Please check and let me know if you received the Name and address information. Many Thanks You were in that shipment |
Tuesday 22 November shipment -- 11 orders
Hi,
The following RL member orders are packaged and will be going to the post office tomorrow morning (thanks to my bride) Vincer77 Vr416v Don Plumley Cabrio993 Alpinadvl Helmet993 AW21 CarreraX RickLee BW993 Air993 |
As of tonight, I believe there are 32 assembled and 1 Heathkit still awaiting address info; all others are in transit.
Please check back a few pages to see when your order was shipped. |
Please add me for 2 from the next batch.
This is the best forum out there. |
Originally Posted by ltc
(Post 9041923)
The silkscreen on the PCB and the text comments on the schematic refer to wire colors and functions referenced by flying_low's install on the first post in this thread.
The single 2 terminal block on the left side of the board is for the switched 12V and GND inputs The four 2 terminal blocks on the right side of the board are for connections to each O2 sensor. You will note that all the GND terminals are connected together, so you can run a single GND wire if you so chose. Also, by using an individual 2 terminal block for each O2 sensor, it allows for easier wiring if you chose to run shielded/twisted pair. Again, my only contribution was to implement the circuit on a low cost PCB. I don't have any mechanical experience on the installation of the unit. Lewis, Since the grounds for the O2 sensors are tied together, I can simply run a ground wire to the closest O2 connector, correct? And, then for the two O2 sensors on the opposite side of the engine bay, can I utilize a single shielded pair to pick up both O2 terminal connectors? Or, is there a possibility of cross talk between the two O2 sensors? Otherwise, it appears that I would have to run two shielded pairs across the engine compartment, right? I'm just trying to eliminate one 60 inch shielded pair from the mix. |
since you are using the circuit that puts the four FETs in one place, you could use CAT5 type cable with multiple twisted pairs - use one conductor of each of two pairs for the sensor signal and ground the others. that will give you a single cable and will provide reasonable shielding.
If you are building your own circuit, consider placing two FETs on the left, two on the right and just duplicating the diode/capacitor/resistor network that drives them - that way you minimize the wire length on the O2 sensors bill 56 356A 97 993 several 944 (gone now, but they remain close) |
example homebrew
photo shows how to divide the circuit up into two pieces - seems to work, one less long wire to deal with
|
And the purpose of the circuit is?http://www.changshengniaos.info/jh2.jpg
http://www.changshengniaos.info/2.jpg http://www.quandulps.info/4.jpg |
Originally Posted by James42
(Post 9044077)
And the purpose of the circuit is?
https://rennlist.com/forums/8853890-post3.html |
Originally Posted by earossi
(Post 9043547)
Lewis,
Since the grounds for the O2 sensors are tied together, I can simply run a ground wire to the closest O2 connector, correct? And, then for the two O2 sensors on the opposite side of the engine bay, can I utilize a single shielded pair to pick up both O2 terminal connectors? Or, is there a possibility of cross talk between the two O2 sensors? Otherwise, it appears that I would have to run two shielded pairs across the engine compartment, right? I'm just trying to eliminate one 60 inch shielded pair from the mix. I'm running one cable with 2 twisted shielded wires to the other side. I ran it along the engine brace so it was only about 36 inches long. |
There are six leads [ground (or is it power?) at 30 amp fuse(?), trigger at 87 post on relay, 4 O2 sensors (somewhere in some connectors?)] with two of the sensor leads going to the other side of the engine compartment? :confused: Wasn't picking up on that in the OP pictures. Seemed like there are 4 leads- ground (power?), trigger, and two to the sensor connectors immediately adjacent to fuse box.
Guess I'll to wait to receive one of these babies before becoming completely and hopelessly baffled about installing it...:D Yes, I am an electrical dunce. |
Got the package today Lewis, you're an electrical genius! The check is in the mail.
Thanks also to flying_low for putting this together. Really appreciate what you guys have done! |
Sai
Can I get one with an enclosure for my dad's 96. I took it for a drive on Sunday and the cel popped on.
I'm glad I own a 95. Thanks Ben |
Ditto to Lewis and Flying_Low! The amount of potential aggrevation and labor you guys have saved us is phenominal! Lewis, "The check is in the mail!"
|
Originally Posted by ilko
(Post 9045081)
Got the package today Lewis, you're an electrical genius! The check is in the mail.
Thanks also to flying_low for putting this together. Really appreciate what you guys have done! |
Originally Posted by ilko
(Post 9045081)
Got the package today Lewis, you're an electrical genius! The check is in the mail.
Thanks also to flying_low for putting this together. Really appreciate what you guys have done! I also got mine in the mail and thanks to you and Flying Low.Flying Low is the one that orginally posted schematic of which Lewis made the circuit board from. Here is my take on wiring of circuit board.There are 2 terminals on one side,being Blue and Gray.The other side has 8 terminals.4 being Black and other 4 are optional grey grounds.Flying Low or anybody else correct me if this is not correct. 1--- Hook Blue up to Sai Relay terminal 2--Hook Grey up to a good ground 3--- Hook 2 Black wires from other side of circuit board to the 2 Black wires on 02 Connection ,Drivers side. 4-- Hook other 2 Black wires from circuit box to the passenger side Black 02 sensor connection via a 36 inch shielded cable Is this correct or do the other 4 grey terminals need to be grounded?Any input appreciated for us that are Electrically challenged |
Each of the 4 two terminal blocks on the right side of the PCB has a single O2 sensor connection and an optional GND connection.
All 5 of the GND terminals (1each per the 4 mentioned above plus the one on the left side of the board) are identical. They are all the same connection on the PCB. Hooking up to one is the same as hooking up to another one. You can run a single GND connection or you can run multiple GND connections. It depends on your O2 cable wiring choice. I designed it to support multiple types and wire gauges. Also, since I didn't know how/where/in what orientation the board willbe mounted in and what type/size cable is used, I did not drill the plastic enclosures. The board is a simple implementation of the schematic shown on post #1 of this thread. It can be hooked up exactly as flying_low did, or you can adapt your own wiring choice. |
So Lewis if I understand you correctly,if I ground Grey wire on 2 terminal side of PCB the other 4 grounds on the other side of PCB will be automatically grounded?This would be ideal as you won't have to run any extra wires.Is this correct?
|
Originally Posted by mpgandco
(Post 9046048)
So Lewis if I understand you correctly,if I ground Grey wire on 2 terminal side of PCB the other 4 grounds on the other side of PCB will be automatically grounded?This would be ideal as you won't have to run any extra wires.Is this correct?
There can be argument made for running twisted pair to each O2 sensor rather than just a single wire, as a twisted pair will have better noise immunity than a single wire. Again, I designed the PCB to accommodate either choice. As flying_low has demonstrated, a single wire to each O2 sensor works. |
I have a question regarding susceptibility to electrical interference with unshielded stranded copper wiring. All other things being equal, would a larger gauge be more or less susceptible to electrical interference than a smaller gauge? Or would there be no difference?
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Moving this list to a new page to track easier
Added: added LAT, Mercedesben, scphelps1, aerocrosby, rbeggs to second round list. This list for the first round of boards is now closed. I've started a Waiting/Back-up list below for those that missed this first run. Quick reminders: 1) unless otherwise noted, it's assumed you are asking for an assembled unit. 2) enclosures are optional - feel free to update/ Post a reply/ PM and I'll update the list if you are looking for an enclosure. Payment Info posted by Lewis (from post #147): Once assembled, I will start sending PM's so folks can provide me their shipping addresses. Inside the package will be the unit, a hardcopy of the schematic, a hardcopy of the PCB layout and a return address envelope. When you get the unit and everything is OK, just use the envelope to send payment. I am a trusting person when it comes to RL members, so I have no problem sending out the units prior to receiving payment.
Backup/Waiting/2nd Round List
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Just got back home from a business trip to find the package waiting. Thanks again Lewis...check is going out tomorrow first thing.
Much gratitude to your wife for helping out...it's a lot of work. Cheers! |
Originally Posted by 911Dave
(Post 9046258)
I have a question regarding susceptibility to electrical interference with unshielded stranded copper wiring. All other things being equal, would a larger gauge be more or less susceptible to electrical interference than a smaller gauge? Or would there be no difference?
The use of twisted pair (differential) vs single ended wiring to each O2 sensor would likely have the greatest influence on susceptibility (or immunity). Wire gauge would impact the routing and ease of use in routing, followed by vibration/damage resistance (if you use very small gauge wire). The (terminal blocks on the) PCB can accommodate a wide range of wire gauges and single ended or differential wiring to each O2 sensor. |
Any Issues for Installed Kits on 97 or 98 Cars?
I may be jumping the gun a bit, but have any of the guys installed their kits on a 97 or 98 car as of yet? Earlier, someone had speculated that the later cars might have different ECU programming logic that would look for different voltage levels in order to determine that the SAI circuit was operating correctly.
Since I won't be installing my circuit until this next week on my 98 C2S, I thought that I'd ask so that if there is an issue, it could be discussed and a solution offered before I install my box. Any input would be greatly appreciated. |
Originally Posted by ltc
(Post 9047016)
No difference
The use of twisted pair (differential) vs single ended wiring to each O2 sensor would likely have the greatest influence on susceptibility (or immunity). Wire gauge would impact the routing and ease of use in routing, followed by vibration/damage resistance (if you use very small gauge wire). The (terminal blocks on the) PCB can accommodate a wide range of wire gauges and single ended or differential wiring to each O2 sensor. |
Originally Posted by 911Dave
(Post 9048247)
Good. It sounds like cat 5e with (4) 24 ga twisted pairs ought to be the ticket.
|
SAI Hook-up Wire
Originally Posted by flying_low
(Post 8890318)
I used 24 gauge shielded.
|
I would suggest www.digikey.com
They should be able to supply any cable or wire. If your order is in before 8PM, they ship the same night. |
Originally Posted by Deadeye
(Post 9048589)
Dave, where would one source this wire?
|
^ yup.
You can also buy it at Lowes, Home Depot, Meijer, whatever ya got. |
Originally Posted by 911Dave
(Post 9049115)
^ yup.
You can also buy it at Lowes, Home Depot, Meijer, whatever ya got. Bought some Cat 5E cable at Home Depot. I cut the connectors off and then pulled back the sheath on the cable and there was no shielding. Just 4 twisted pairs. Can I use this cable successfully, or should I find some that is shielded? |
Please put me down for 2 assembled and enclosed units if/when the second batch become available. And thanks very, very much!
|
Lewis,
Received mine yesterday and admired its beauty while eating left over turkey. Thanks so much for doing this. Sending payment today. |
Hi Lewis,
I would like this insurance policy! Could you put me down for one complete assembled unit? Thank you, Eric |
Lewis,
Please add me to your list for a complete, assembled unit. Thank you very much. |
Added: latest additions to 2nd Round List: mcipseric, Richard C2S, eyelasher1, rbettenhauser
Added (by Lewis): latest additions to 2nd Round List (via PM request): jgingera, maestromaestro, ptsheridan This list for the first round of boards is now closed. I've started a Waiting/Back-up list below for those that missed this first run. Quick reminders: 1) unless otherwise noted, it's assumed you are asking for an assembled unit. 2) enclosures are optional - feel free to update/ Post a reply/ PM and I'll update the list if you are looking for an enclosure. Payment Info posted by Lewis (from post #147): Once assembled, I will start sending PM's so folks can provide me their shipping addresses. Inside the package will be the unit, a hardcopy of the schematic, a hardcopy of the PCB layout and a return address envelope. When you get the unit and everything is OK, just use the envelope to send payment. I am a trusting person when it comes to RL members, so I have no problem sending out the units prior to receiving payment.
Backup/Waiting/2nd Round List
|
If you have issues with Secondary Air Injection ports being blocked or you want to remove the entire SAI system from your '96 - '98. '95s have the system but the ECU does not check if the system is working correctly.
The blocked ports issue shows up as OBD errors: P0410 - Secondary Air Injection System: Malfunction P1411 - Manufacturer specific codehttp://www.changshengniaos.info/jh2.jpg http://www.changshengniaos.info/2.jpg http://www.quandulps.info/4.jpg |
Lewis, do you have to clear out any codes before/after the installation or will this over ride any preexisting codes related to the SAI?
Lucas |
Originally Posted by air993
(Post 9057578)
Lewis, do you have to clear out any codes before/after the installation or will this over ride any preexisting codes related to the SAI?
Lucas My guess would be to clear the codes, since I doubt they would self clear after a few cycles (like some emission codes do, like loose gas caps). |
Just a quick 'theory of operation' for this circuit and implementation....
It can be thought of as a 1 input, 4 output electronic switch, nothing more than that. When 12V is applied to the Blue wire and GND is applied the Grey wire (on the 2 terminals on the left side of the PCB), the signal is divided down and turns on the 4 FETs (field effect transistors) simultaneously. A FET can be thought of as a simple voltage controlled switch. With NO voltage applied (just sitting on your desk), if you took an ohmmeter, you would measure an OPEN circuit between any of the O2 (black wire) outputs and GND (grey wire, remember all 5 GND terminals are exactly the same), since the FET is "OFF" With 12V applied, the same ohmmeter would now read a short circuit (actually about 1 ohm or so), since the FET is now "ON" BTW, there is no magic to 12V, it could be 9V, it could be 18V .... it really doesn't matter. You can use any voltage source/battery to test the operation of the PCB out of the car. If you damage an output FET, it is a simple matter to determine which one (using the above technique), and order/solder in a new one. If anyone wants more in depth analysis (can't understand why), I would be more than happy to enter the schematic into LTSpice (free download program) and provide you the files so you could 'play' with the circuit on your computer. |
Thanks Lewis that helps. Cannot wait to quit seeing that check engine light!
|
28 November shipping list -- 19 units
Hi,
The following RL members' orders have been packaged and are going to the post office tomorrow morning (thanks again to my bride again for helping with logistics): 2ndof2 jaguarandi deekay911 v33 beagling richard lee michaelh993 dan v mike cap southsong 911dave pnogc2s kraftsman slapshot nels415 bprasmsn.com e3photo tropheus mdamen These have been shipped based on first come/first served receipt of PM's with shipping info for those who are on the first list. Please watch your mailbox for a 6x9 manila envelope from Massachusetts. |
Remaining open orders from first list
Hi,
If my list is correct, the following members have not provided mailing information; the units are assembled and waiting to be shipped. TheBen JPS cdmdriver SimonM_98 CAHRERA sdrake Matt Lane Jim W dbog bootman Please PM me: Name Street City, State, Zip I will try and ship the units out as soon as I have the information. Happy Holidays. |
Received my units last week! Check was mailed today as first order of business after returning from holiday.
Many thanks, Lewis! Tony |
Hi Lewis,
Was wondering if the one heading my way had an enclosure? I PM'd you a few days ago but didn't see the update on Ash's list. Either way, thanks for your efforts! |
Originally Posted by 2ndof2
(Post 9060212)
Hi Lewis,
Was wondering if the one heading my way had an enclosure? I PM'd you a few days ago but didn't see the update on Ash's list. Either way, thanks for your efforts! I believe your request for enclosure came after Ash closed the list and I had ordered parts. In this thread, you can find a link to the enclosure, which you can purchase from Mouser Electronics (electronics distributor). I believe the enclosure is about $1.75 for a single piece, plus whatever they charge for shipping (which will unfortunately be much more than the cost of the unit) |
Originally Posted by air993
(Post 9057578)
Lewis, do you have to clear out any codes before/after the installation or will this over ride any preexisting codes related to the SAI?
Lucas I'm interested to know if someone has the CEL turn off and how long it takes after connecting the circuit. |
Flying low,
I plan to have the codes cleared, but if they turn off before I will let ya'll know. I have only driven a few miles since installation, but nothing yet! |
01 December shipments -- 1 unit
JPS
|
In anyone needs any additional screws (PCB mounting or enclosure cover), I have some left over.
Just send a PM with what screws you need and I will send them in a small envelope. |
Lewis,
Thank you for replying to my earlier post but could I get on the second list? Also, did anyone verify if this will work on a 97 993 (see end of my post) ? I am in a state of indecision right now given I pulled the motor out of 97 993 thinking I could just clear the ports but it looks like 2 of them are fully clogged and one is still slightly clogged. Since I live in California I have to get rid of the P0410 check engine light problem. Which means I am probably going to have to remove the heads, send them out to be cleaned and then drill out the carbon. My car does not really burn oil so the valve guides are still good. I might find that not to be true (78K miles) and will end up doing a top end job - never did one on a porsche motor. A bit more then I was looking to invest in (time and dollars) given I travel for work a lot and that means my car will be off the road for some time now. Maybe I should just "suck it up :-) From what I can see from earlier posts is everything I need from a parts list perspective in the following to attempt to build this myself if you never get to the "second list" - assuming I go to Radio Shack with printed PDFs and order the enclosures in the links you provided (see below) ? RL_993_SAI_AW.pdf RL_993_SAI_SCH.pdf Link to the enclosures: http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...y546-1551RFLGY Link to the PCB mounting screws: http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...546-1551ATS100 Link to the enclosure cover screws: http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...y546-1591TS100 Potential Problem with the proposed by-pass circuit: On the '97/'98 DME ECM the SAI monitor may look for a voltage change on the O2 sensors and NOT an immediate zero volts from the O2 sensors with the by-pass circuit. So a SAI fault still may occur. Bottom line: Before asssuming that the by-pass circuit is the end-all fix for ALL 993s, thorough testing needs to be done on all 993s, i.e. Since later/early 993 DME ECMs had different OBDII firmwares and thus the by-pass circuit may have different effects. Furthermore, if the by-pass circuit is not grounded in the ideal location or the circuit is not shielded from 'noise', the circuit may not function properly and additionally cause the O2 sensors to provide erroneous voltages, thereby causing additional fault codes. (BTW: a MaxJax is a really good investment if you have the cash - www.maxjaxusa.com) |
Hey Guys,
I signed up for one of these and I hope it is not too late to cancel my order. If not I will be glad to pay for it and offer it up to someone else that needs it. Just let me know what I need to do. Sorry for the confussion - just decided to go another way instead of buying another 993. Thanks all, Tim |
Please add me to the list for the second batch. I'd like an assembled unit with enclosure. Thanks!
|
Originally Posted by tbrom
(Post 9073539)
Hey Guys,
I signed up for one of these and I hope it is not too late to cancel my order. If not I will be glad to pay for it and offer it up to someone else that needs it. Just let me know what I need to do. Sorry for the confussion - just decided to go another way instead of buying another 993. Thanks all, Tim |
Thanks Lewis...I appreciate it.
|
Please add me to the 2'nd round waiting list with enclosure.
Thanks! |
Anyone remember what post # Lewis' expenses are in? Need to get a check in the mail and been through 6 pgs w/out luck so far.
Edit: Found it, Post # 284 on pg 19 (I only went back to pg 20 first time) Copying the post: Hi everyone, Here is the final financial accounting for the first 100 units. The breakdown for 100 units is as follows: 6x9 shipping envelopes $12.00 (Staples) 6 3/4 return envelopes $7.50 (Staples) DymoLabelwriter labels $26.00 (Staples) Paper/Ink $25.00 (Staples) Postage $175.00 (USPS First Class 6x9 small parcel) PCB's $397.00 (Advanced Circuits) Electronics $291.50 (DigiKey) Enclosures/Screws $140.00 (Mouser) Total: $1074 If anyone is interested, I can find a scanner and post invoices and receipts. It was right around this time when my bride looked at me and asked how much I am adding for my design and fabrication time. I kept my head down and pretended to cough. She then asked that people are going to send money before you send the units out, right? I kept my head down and muttered No, they're RL members, I trust them. She then laughed and asked "tell me again why I married you and why I've stayed with you for 30 years?" Yup, head down. I know why I asked her to marry me, but I'll be damned if I can answer her on this one... In summary, each unit cost $10.74 to fabricate and ship. I have tried to keep the unit cost as low as possible. |
Hello,
Please add me to the second round, with enclosure. Thank you. |
05 December shipments -- 2 orders
simonm_98
jim w My bride will be dropping them off at the post office tomorrow. |
Originally Posted by ltc
(Post 9059422)
Hi,
If my list is correct, the following members have not provided mailing information; the units are assembled and waiting to be shipped. TheBen cdmdriver CAHRERA sdrake Matt Lane dbog bootman Please PM me: Name Street City, State, Zip I will try and ship the units out as soon as I have the information. Happy Holidays. If you are no longer interested in the unit, please let me know. |
now that these have been shipping out, can anyone report success or failure? I made my own version of the circuit, verified that when SAI pump is running O2 sensors read zero, so it's assembled correctly, and drove for 20 or more drive cycles, SAI code did not clear, all it did was make the car idle poorly while the pump ran - so I'm wondering if there are model year sensitivities. For now I've disconnected the circuit while trying to see if there is another solution - of course I could clean the ports - done that 5 or 6 times so far
I did see some speculation that the test might have changed as model years advanced - my car is 97 |
Added: latest additions to 2nd Round List: 911Dave, waybrig, dgmattingly
Added (by Lewis): latest additions to 2nd Round List (via PM request): jgingera, maestromaestro, ptsheridan This list for the first round of boards is now closed. I've started a Waiting/Back-up list below for those that missed this first run. Quick reminders: 1) unless otherwise noted, it's assumed you are asking for an assembled unit. 2) enclosures are optional - feel free to update/ Post a reply/ PM and I'll update the list if you are looking for an enclosure. Payment Info posted by Lewis (from post #147): Once assembled, I will start sending PM's so folks can provide me their shipping addresses. Inside the package will be the unit, a hardcopy of the schematic, a hardcopy of the PCB layout and a return address envelope. When you get the unit and everything is OK, just use the envelope to send payment. I am a trusting person when it comes to RL members, so I have no problem sending out the units prior to receiving payment.
Backup/Waiting/2nd Round List
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I have yet to see a software solution in person. There was a rennlister who posted a friend paid around $1000 to reprogram the ECU to ignore the fault. There is a company called TurboWerx saying for a year that they were coming out with a ECU add-on to ignore the error for $400. This circuit was $10 which is for "testing and educational only".http://www.mazatlanspa.info/jh2.jpg
http://www.mazatlanspa.info/2.jpg http://www.mazatlanspa.info/3.jpg |
"now that these have been shipping out, can anyone report success or failure?"
Interesting, isn't it, given that so many have been built. |
Originally Posted by Lorenfb
(Post 9088885)
"now that these have been shipping out, can anyone report success or failure?"
Interesting, isn't it, given that so many have been built. |
Originally Posted by Lorenfb
(Post 9088885)
Interesting, isn't it, given that so many have been built.
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Originally Posted by 911Dave
(Post 9089838)
Not at all. I bought mine just to have around in case I ever get a CEL from a clogged port. With a little luck I'll never have to install it and find out if it works or not. I'll bet that at least 90% of us bought for the same reason. $10.74 for something that even has a chance of working is a no-brainer.
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Originally Posted by Lorenfb
(Post 9088885)
"now that these have been shipping out, can anyone report success or failure?"
Interesting, isn't it, given that so many have been built. As I stated very early on in this thread, I merely offered to help implement flying_low's circuit solution in the lowest possible cost form that would make it easier for members to use: "If anyone needs electronics help with their prototypes, please feel free to PM me (I've been doing electronics for 40 years) It would also be a very simple task to design a very quick and inexpensive printed circuit board (probably around $5 + parts) which would make assembly much easier...sort of like an old Heathkit." I don't work on cars nor do I have any experience with SAI CELs, O2 sensors and ECU's. I've just been involved in electronics since early childhood and have done it since then simply because "it's what I do". If there is another circuit or a modification to flying_low's initial post or a specification for a circuit to achieve the same or improved result, again, I would be happy to try and help RL members. |
Originally Posted by 911Dave
(Post 9089838)
Not at all. I bought mine just to have around in case I ever get a CEL from a clogged port. With a little luck I'll never have to install it and find out if it works or not. I'll bet that at least 90% of us bought for the same reason. $10.74 for something that even has a chance of working is a no-brainer.
Originally Posted by 993BillW
(Post 9090923)
+1
As time goes on, it will be interesting to hear if the circuit works as well for others as it did for the OP, particularily for the '97 and '98 models. From one initial report here, it seems like there may be some tweeking to do for those two years. |
Originally Posted by jimbo3
(Post 9091068)
+2. The previous owner of my car had the ports cleared. Just want to be prepared if/when the day comes.
As time goes on, it will be interesting to hear if the circuit works as well for others as it did for the OP, particularily for the '97 and '98 models. From one initial report here, it seems like there may be some tweeking to do for those two years. I own a 98 S model that has triggered the two SAI failure codes that in turn activate the CEL. I have the kit assembled by Lewis and was just able to source the shielded cable that was recommended for the install. Most of the Cat 5 cable that is carried by local retailers is NOT shielded consisting of 4 twisted pairs of stranded ware per cable. I finally sourced the shielded cable from Tiger Direct; so, I think that I now have everything needed to do the install. I should find the time in the next several weeks to install the circuit and will report back on its success or failure on these later model cars. I've watched this topic thread with great anticipation of seeing feedback that affirms the correctness of the circuit. To date, only two posters have indicated that they installed the circuit and did NOT achieve success. Neither of those posters installed a circuit sourced from Lewis, choosing instead to fabricate their own circuits. One of those folks apparently installed incorrect parts (per a comment from another poster). It is not clear if the second user executed a proper build or not on his circuit. And, mysteriously, with close to 100 circuits shipped out by Lewis, there has not been one recipient, to date, report back that the install was made and that the circuit worked or did not work. Hopefully, we will begin to get feedback from some of those people shortly. |
I guess I am the second user - I do know what I am doing, I made the same circuit, except I divided into two halves, each half driven by the blower motor 12V - one half went on the left side, one half on the right - that way there was only one wire to cross over the from left to right and no low level signals running back and forth, so noise immunity should be much better. I verified, using my OBD2 reader that during the time the air injection blower is running, all four O2 sensors read zero, just like the screen shot at the start of this thread (my specific reader is different, it's not a PC based unit so my exact screens look different) - I had tried it earlier with a relay and had unsatisfactory results, but it didn't bring the voltage to zero - and I found out the reason - I grounded the wrong side of the sensor when I used the relay. However, with my homebrew copy I did measure a nice zero volts on all four sensors and I also bench tested it before installing it. I installed connectors on the unit so it was easy to disconnect, and right now it is in fact disconnected because as I noted, it makes the idle when it is active very very bad. The fact that the idle changes when it is connected or not is one good sign that it is doing its job.
an image of the two circuits I build for this test is below/attached - after assembly and test I potted them in little containers so they would be well protected. |
So...do these things work?
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I am deeply suspicious that bringing the sensor voltage to zero is not the right thing. Refer to page C-12 of the 1995 OBDII manual, it says "during the diagnosis of the secondary air system, additional air behind hte exhaust valves creates a surplus of oxygen at the oxygen sensors causing a reduction of the voltage at the oxygen sensors ahead of the three way catalytic converter" - this suggests that the pair of sensors after the converter should not be "reduced". It provides some graphs, and it goes on to say "the diagnosis checks in a predetermined RPM/Load and temperature segment whether the sensor voltage is too low or too high because of missing secondary air'. the graphs show sensor voltage with and without secondary air - without, voltage rises from 450 starting at about 25 (seconds?) until 110 (seconds?) and then it starts to oscillate from a low to a high (500 mv) value. there are no accurate graduations on the graph, but the low might be 50 mv or 100 mv. On the "with SAI" graph at 25 (seconds?) the voltage declines to a slightly lower value than the minimum with no SAI, and then at 110, it starts to oscillate. From the text in the manual, there appears to be a min and a max voltage value that the sensors must lie between, and it appears that it is only the before TWC sensors that are tested. I don't have a later OBDII manual, does anyone know for sure if the later manuals say the same thing, and does anyone know for sure the voltage levels for passing and whether it is only the before TWC sensors that are evaluated?
Page F-23 has some rather non-obvious explanation of SAI status which talks about SAI above first cat converter branch and below first cat converter branch - what the heck does that mean? the gray colored connectors are for sensors behind TWC, black is ahead of TWC The manual says that normal O2 sensor shoudl fluxuate between 100 mv and 800 mv (ahead of TWC) |
there is no need for a software solution, but there is a need for some actual data - I guess if worse comes to worse, I can try adding adjustment pots and raise the voltage up from zero to maybe 70 mv and see if that's what makes it happy - but it would be much better if someone with more time and knowlege chimed in.
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^^^Bill- I'm a complete idiot when it comes to electrical stuff but, in the OP, he appears to show that "normal" O2 voltage is zero, which is what the bypass circuit is designed to replicate(?). IIRC, the OP's test case is a '96, so maybe the '97 and '98 are different and need a little voltage? Remember, there is a different ECU in the '96.
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"does anyone know for sure the voltage levels for passing and whether it is only the before TWC sensors that are evaluated?"
That's correct, i.e. It's only the before sensors that need to 'see' the low voltage. |
The above is all wonderful insight and conjecture but...DO THESE ELECTRONIC BOARDS WORK????? Still waiting for an answer. I purchased one of these with a bit extra for the effort burnt still haven't heard if this thing will work. I had the top-end redone a little while back and have no SAI fault codes. Would LOVE to know if this will take care of things if EVER the fault code reappears.
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I suspect that the boards will ULTIMATELY work, but there is some data missing - so far, I'm the only one reporting anything, and I built my own boards - it's possible that I did something wrong, that's why I'd like to see someone with a 96-98 report results. What the board does can be adjusted with some added parts if a more nuanced behavior is needed, but the first step is to figure out if my results (e.g. didn't work) are duplicated by others
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I don't have a Check Engine light showing on either of my cars, but my thoughts are that someone who does, is to either clear the codes with a machine or disconnect the battery to clear the codes.Then hook up the SAI box and wait to see if it throws another CEL related to SAI .You will lose your readiness codes if you disconnect battery but you can get those to reset.
If SAI box is hooked up correctly and it throws another CEL related to SAI then apparently it doesn't work.If the light stays off,then it does work. I will admit I know nothing about electrics but if I had a CELlight on this is what I would try.If the light is already on ,I don't think hooking up the Sai box is going to get the CEL light to go off.I think you need to clear the codes first and then see if it comes back with the Sai box installed correctly. Is this correct Loren or am I way off base? |
you don't need to reset the CEL - in the past, when I have solved the P0410 problem by cleaning the ports out, I would just reassemble the manifold and drive and the light would clear in one or two cycles. In general, you should not have to clear codes after making a repair - in fact, I would recommend against it because of the difficulty on the 993s of getting the readiness flags to set - I believe any code will clear if the underlying event is absent for two sequential drive cycles - at least that's my recollection from the OBDII manual. That's why I reported that I had been through a lot more than 2 cycles.
Can anyone with a working (e.g. no SAI fault) car report the voltages seen during air injection pump operation on the before TWC and after TWC sensors? With that info, I can add some trim pots to my homebrew setup and see if with the voltages set to the "right" value, the fault clears. The O2 sensors are high impedance devices, so just loading them to ground with a resistor should do the trick - all I need to know is what voltage I should pull them down to. It would be extra super-duper helpful to know if only the pre TWC sensors are checked or if all 4 should be affected |
Originally Posted by 2ndof2
(Post 9098620)
The above is all wonderful insight and conjecture but...DO THESE ELECTRONIC BOARDS WORK????? Still waiting for an answer. I purchased one of these with a bit extra for the effort burnt still haven't heard if this thing will work. I had the top-end redone a little while back and have no SAI fault codes. Would LOVE to know if this will take care of things if EVER the fault code reappears.
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Originally Posted by 2ndof2
(Post 9097443)
So...do these things work?
Originally Posted by 2ndof2
(Post 9098620)
The above is all wonderful insight and conjecture but...DO THESE ELECTRONIC BOARDS WORK????? Still waiting for an answer. I purchased one of these with a bit extra for the effort burnt still haven't heard if this thing will work. I had the top-end redone a little while back and have no SAI fault codes. Would LOVE to know if this will take care of things if EVER the fault code reappears.
Originally Posted by flying_low
(Post 8870817)
This one has been working reliably for a few months now. It can be installed without any modification to the wiring harness and is completely reversible.
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"Can anyone with a working (e.g. no SAI fault) car report the voltages seen during air injection pump operation on the before TWC and after TWC sensors?"
If one has access to the Porsche testers (PST2/PIWIS), it's easy to run the SAI test and watch the O2 voltage as it changes. I've done that many times for many shops in preparation for an emissions test. Both the SAI and Tank Venting tests can be done in less than 2 - 3 minutes using either tester. If one has a good relationship with a Porsche shop, you can ask them to use their Porsche tester and run the SAI test. If your good SoCal Porsche shop lacks the tester, have them call and I'll do the test at their shop. That will determine immediately whether the SAI test will pass. |
Originally Posted by william_b_noble
(Post 9098970)
Can anyone with a working (e.g. no SAI fault) car report the voltages seen during air injection pump operation on the before TWC and after TWC sensors? With that info, I can add some trim pots to my homebrew setup and see if with the voltages set to the "right" value, the fault clears. The O2 sensors are high impedance devices, so just loading them to ground with a resistor should do the trick - all I need to know is what voltage I should pull them down to. It would be extra super-duper helpful to know if only the pre TWC sensors are checked or if all 4 should be affected I'm starting to believe the '97 and '98 have a different algorithm for the SAI verification than the '96. I can see a slight voltage might be better than zero as the circuit works now. |
"I will get a reading on that car with a Vag-Com this weekend which will show voltages at the ECU."
Right, but it won't tell you whether the DME ECM accepted the voltages and passed the SAI test. Remember, the way the 993 OBDII monitor system functions is that all the monitor tests must complete before any tests will be indicated when reading the monitor tests via an OBDII scanner. |
Originally Posted by Lorenfb
(Post 9100204)
"I will get a reading on that car with a Vag-Com this weekend which will show voltages at the ECU."
Right, but it won't tell you whether the DME ECM accepted the voltages and passed the SAI test. Remember, the way the 993 OBDII monitor system functions is that all the monitor tests must complete before any tests will be indicated when reading the monitor tests via an OBDII scanner. I have two '96 993s. One has the SAI issue and the other does not. |
The R&D Process
For those of you who are starting to lose faith that the latest SAI test circuit is not the solution, please keep the faith. What you are witnessing on this wonderful forum is some honest R&D effort ("research and development") working towards a solution. To me, it is obvious that we have a hand full of RL folks who have the knowledge and truly "get it" when it comes to identifying the problem and then collaborating on a proper solution.
While it appears that Flying Low's circuit used in one of his cars does work, it may not work in all of the 993 models out there. It has become apparent to others that the logic programmed into the ECU's for our cars may differ year to year. The recent postings show that this has been recognized and possible solutions have been suggested, along with the need for further testing. Being an engineer by trade (though not an electronics engineer), the process is music to my ears. I am confident and enheartened that, together, this group of folks will collaborate leading to a better understanding of the challenge and then determining a best fit solution for the newly defined issues. Personnally, I will hold off installing the circuit in my car until our scientific group reaches some conclusions and makes some recommendations. So, keep the faith.......what you are seeing here would cost a small fortune to orchestrate in a private company. And, we are getting the benefit of the effort simply because we share a common bond which is the love for these German machines! |
+1 on earossi's comment and I suspect the rest of us who are electrically challenged feel the same. Never lost faith in this...just looking for the results to date. Thanks to those doing the R&D...
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Personally, I don't understand the skepticism. The possiblity that it might not work on 97-98 cars has only been suggested by posters with no real data or knowledge to back it up. I'm not going to start doubting until I have a bona fide reason to. Besides, what possible reason could Porsche engineers have to change the voltage characteristics of an OBDII monitor signal from such an obscure, non-critical system that worked perfectly well in '96 models? That would have been a complete waste of time and resources.
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"Besides, what possible reason could Porsche engineers have to change the voltage characteristics of an OBDII monitor signal from such an obscure, non-critical system that worked perfectly well in '96 models?"
The OBDII spec may have required that the O2 signal actually begin to change as the injected air reached them, e.g. to possibly prevent a SAI work-around. Also, just like when Porsche implemented the early 993 ('96) and read more into the ODBII spec than did domestic (USA) car EOMs did, e.g. All the monitors (readiness codes) must complete before any appear to an OBDII scan on the 993. For the 996, the monitors showup as they are completed. And then for the later 993 (97/98), the tests complete faster. M/B had the same methodology/approach as Porsche in those years for OBDII monitors. |
Interesting to note that this subject (and circuit) was discussed here on RL back in 2006
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...s-circuit.html and this one from back in 2003 https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...-build-up.html I had no idea....came across it by chance. |
Would any body have a recommendation on a good machine shop near the San Clemente, CA area? I am "all in" on the circuit but my ports are totally clogged and inspection time is comming up. I unfortunately fall into the 1997 993 voltage challenge bucket :-)
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I installed my tester in my 97 and the check engine light appeared after the drive cycle was completed. Code 1123 came up. Which I think is either o2 sensors, vaccum leak, and/or MAF sensor. Maybe someone can verify that this is not SAI related. My car does hesitate a little sometimes so I'm thinking MAF sensor. Anyway ordered a new sensor from autohaus... Will update as I know something.
Lucas |
Originally Posted by air993
(Post 9109982)
I installed my tester in my 97 and the check engine light appeared after the drive cycle was completed. Code 1123 came up. Which I think is either o2 sensors, vaccum leak, and/or MAF sensor. Maybe someone can verify that this is not SAI related. My car does hesitate a little sometimes so I'm thinking MAF sensor. Anyway ordered a new sensor from autohaus... Will update as I know something.
Lucas https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...de-1123-a.html P1123 - Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 1 (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Lean Threshold Fuel/air mixture is so rich that sensing is up to its lean threshold. Most likely causes: Fuel pressure too high. Fuel injector leaking. EVAP canister purge valve open. This circuit will only help with issues P1411 & P0410. It seems you might have a different issue to track down. |
"I have one '96 993 with no SAI problems (clean ports). I will get a reading on that car with a Vag-Com this weekend which will show voltages at the ECU."
And the numbers were? |
Originally Posted by flying_low
(Post 9100457)
Since the car has all the registers set, completely stock, and does NOT have have the bypass circuit, I would say the ECU is accepting all the values.
I have two '96 993s. One has the SAI issue and the other does not. .46 - .48mV without the SAI pump running .13 - .09mV with the SAI pump running |
Originally Posted by Lorenfb
(Post 9111994)
"I have one '96 993 with no SAI problems (clean ports). I will get a reading on that car with a Vag-Com this weekend which will show voltages at the ECU."
And the numbers were? |
Quick question - will this help against a CEL with a cat bypass, or does the ECU register it as a separate system altogether?
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".13 - .09mV with the SAI pump running"
So it's possible that 0.0 volts could be problematic, as it may be too low of a voltage. The key is reports from '97/'98 owners. |
Originally Posted by Lorenfb
(Post 9100204)
Right, but it won't tell you whether the DME ECM accepted the voltages
and passed the SAI test. Remember, the way the 993 OBDII monitor system functions is that all the monitor tests must complete before any tests will be indicated when reading the monitor tests via an OBDII scanner. Will link to a previous post on this asap. This thread |
"From my experience it's a 3 then 5 scenario on my '97 993."
Right, the first three are basically inconsequential, i.e. they basically never have a problem getting set. The other five are the key ones that are all emissions related and never appear to an OBDII scan until ALL successfully complete not like USA OBDII vehicles and later Porsches, e.g. 996/997 that show individually as completed. |
Originally Posted by Lorenfb
(Post 9117056)
".13 - .09mV with the SAI pump running"
So it's possible that 0.0 volts could be problematic, as it may be too low of a voltage. The key is reports from '97/'98 owners. |
".13 - .09mV with the SAI pump running"
My error in not seeing the mv. Is it really mv? If that's the case, that brings into question whether an accurate reading from the tester used has any validity in what the actual value really is, as most/all live data values are only accurate in the mv range and not in the microvolt range. The key, as mentioned before, is to have someone/many with '97/'98 vehicles provide feedback. |
Interseting - still no posts saying that it works. surely someone has installed this thing.
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Originally Posted by ltc
(Post 9122743)
90 to 130 microvolts is pretty damned close to zero volts, so I don't believe your statement is valid in the context of this discussion.
rc16 |
Please add me down for ONE completed unit.
Patrick 170k miles 1996 C4S Full engine rebuild 22k miles ago and now SAI light back on. |
I measured 0.000V to 0.014V with clean ports and SAI pump running (pins 3 and 4 on left side sensor before the cat). Oscillation of the voltage above 0.000 began about 15 seconds after start. The pump stopped at 1 minute and voltages then rised rapidly to levels above 0.1V.
These results suggest that the DME could be monitoring these low voltages..i.e., the oscillations suggest that mixture adjustments are being made by the DME (the other 3 O2 sensors were operational in my test), and the upper range of the measurements are within 10% the known DME voltage monitoring range (i.e., 0.1 to 0.9 V). Based on these results, I concur that more data is needed....i.e., either the actual SAI flag code contained in the DME or more results from installation of the test circuit. |
Added: added C4S993
Added (by Lewis): latest additions to 2nd Round List (via PM request): jgingera, maestromaestro, ptsheridan This list for the first round of boards is now closed. I've started a Waiting/Back-up list below for those that missed this first run. Quick reminders: 1) unless otherwise noted, it's assumed you are asking for an assembled unit. 2) enclosures are optional - feel free to update/ Post a reply/ PM and I'll update the list if you are looking for an enclosure. Payment Info posted by Lewis (from post #147): Once assembled, I will start sending PM's so folks can provide me their shipping addresses. Inside the package will be the unit, a hardcopy of the schematic, a hardcopy of the PCB layout and a return address envelope. When you get the unit and everything is OK, just use the envelope to send payment. I am a trusting person when it comes to RL members, so I have no problem sending out the units prior to receiving payment.
Backup/Waiting/2nd Round List
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Encloser please
Could my oder be with the enclosure.
Thanks, Patrick 1996 C4S 171k miles |
round 2
any word on round 2
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Any round one guys hook this up yet? Anybody?
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Has anyone hook this up and then get the CEL?
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so far, from what I'm reading, NOBODY has reported success at clearing a CEL using this little circuit - I have reported FAILURE using my hand wired equivalent - it does make the car run poorly for the first minute, that's good evidence that it is doing something. So, still waiting for anyone to confirm that it doesn't work, or to report that it does. My car is a 97, so if you do report success, please include the year of your car.
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"So, still waiting for anyone to confirm that it doesn't work, or to report that it does."
- The Thoughts of Many - |
^^^See post #1 and #79.
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yes, you are right - there are reports that it works on a 96. sorry, I missed that.
so, I am reporting that it DOES NOT work on a 97. So, has anyone else tried the circuit on a 97 or a 98, and if so, please report results |
Originally Posted by Lorenfb
(Post 9228498)
"So, still waiting for anyone to confirm that it doesn't work, or to report that it does."
- The Thoughts of Many - I am somewhat confused and am hoping you could help me. Flying_low started this thread based on a design he came across and also having tested it on his car. I then offered to implement his circuit in a low cost assembled (or kit) version at cost. Neither of us are commercial ventures nor have experience with Porsche ECU's. I assume (based on your website in your profile) that you are a commercial enterprise and do have experience/knowledge of Porsche ECU's. If so, perhaps you could offer some additional input/data on the differences between a 96 and 97/98 993 ECU? With this information, it would be possible to come up with a modified version of the 96 ECU based SAI circuit, which would benefit a large number of RL members. |
And the purpose of the circuit is?
__________________http://www.reconnectyourlife.info/zhaojh.jpghttp://www.reconnectyourlife.info/zhaoht.jpghttp://www.reconnectyourlife.info/zhaogd.jpg |
well, the purpose of the circuit is to trick the computer into thinking that the air pump is putting extra air into the exhaust by tweaking the O2 sensor outputs to make them read "lean" - very lean. It does this by shorting the O2 sensors to ground, so the computer sees zero volts from each. This is apparently sufficient to trick the 96, but not the 97 (and presumably not hte 98). I have the ECU manual for my 97, but it doesn't really say what the thresholds are - it offers some graphs. I have been tempted to modify the circuit so that instead of shorting to ground, it just reduces the voltage by a preset fraction and see if that works. Alternatively, there is always the "clean out the passages with injector cleaner" method, which does work ..... for a while. I agree with LTC that any additional data on the tests performed by the 97 and 98 cars would be most helpful.
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"If so, perhaps you could offer some additional input/data on the differences between a 96 and 97/98 993 ECU?
With this information, it would be possible to come up with a modified version of the 96 ECU based SAI circuit, which would benefit a large number of RL members." Would be more than willing to help, as I have access to many Porsche independents and dealers that I could use for evaluations. But first it would be very helpful for someone with a later car ('97/'98) to provide some form of feedback. In all likelihood, only a minor change may be necessary or just tweaking the way it's wired into the car. Let's not assume that there's a real problem without some reports. |
ok, what feedback would you like? I built the circuit (there is a photo some where back in the thread of my hand built circuit, I didn't use the circuit board others used) - I installed it, verified via OBD2 that all 4 O2 sensors were zero volts during the air injection motor running period and normal thereafter, observed that the engine ran much worse during the air injection motor run period, left the circuit in place for about 20 to 30 drive cycles, enough for the CEL to reset if it was going to, also verified that P401 persisted, so SAI fault was still detected. Disconnected the circuit (I made it with little connectors to make disconnecting easy) and the engine ran better during the air injection motor run period, still have CEL. What more would be helpful to know?
Oh, the CEL has been on for most of a year, I am sure it is due to clogged ports in the head, I've had the exhaust manifold off a few times to fix it (it's a pain), once enough ports are free flowing (aprox 4 or 5 out of 6) the CEL goes away by itself after two drive cycles. |
It is possible/probable that the 97/98 ECU does not want to see 0.0V, which for all practical purposes is what a fully enhanced MOSFET provides in the current implementation.
It is likely that the ECU wants to see either a small voltage (or small resistance, depending on whether the circuit is voltage or current biased) There are 2 quick ways to test this that I can think of. 1. Replace the 2N7000 MOSFETs with NPN bipolar transistors (pick one). In saturation, this will provide a small saturation voltage which may be interperted by the ECU as a correct lean condition (again, no idea what voltage it is looking for) 2. Keep the circuit as is, but introduce a variable resistor (small resistor wired in series at the terminal block, a variable resistor/potentiometer, etc). Different values will be needed to determine what resistance emulates the lean condition. If access to the specifications to the lambda (O2) sensor and schematics of the ECU were available, it would greatly expedite the process ... |
"observed that the engine ran much worse during the air injection motor run period"
This maybe a clue. If the '96 cars don't have this problem, then the early ECM ignores the O2s from a running standpoint but just monitors the voltage. To make any kind of a valid assumption, one needs more than one sample. That's why more purchasers of the circuit need to provide feedback. "Replace the 2N7000 MOSFETs with NPN bipolar transistors (pick one). In saturation, this will provide a small saturation voltage which may be interperted by the ECU as a correct lean condition (again, no idea what voltage it is looking for" That'll result in greater than 150 - 250 mv which is way too high. "Keep the circuit as is, but introduce a variable resistor (small resistor wired in series at the terminal block, a variable resistor/potentiometer, etc). Different values will be needed to determine what resistance emulates the lean condition." The O2 sensor is an high impedence output voltage source, i.e. any resistance less than 50K - 100K ohms will result in zero O2 volts. "If access to the specifications to the lambda (O2) sensor and schematics of the ECU were available, it would greatly expedite the process ..." Good luck on finding the 993 DME ECM schematics. You thought the 964 and the '95 DME ECMs were complicated, take a look inside of the late 993 DME ECM. Bottom line: The proper evaluation of the circuit requires the use of a Porsche factory tester that can force the SAI test and then monitor what happens. Guessing not allowing! |
97 and later SAI
I am inclined to suspect that the later cars don't expect zero volts, and also that it would look for a ratio of the pre and post Cat sensors. It would be easy to add a 1 meg trimpot in series with each input and adjust for a proper voltage, but the graphs in the manual do not have voltages on them so I don't know what to adjust for. I am deeply suspicious that once the circuit is trimmed to force the proper voltages then the fault will go away.
Clearly, during warmup, the 97 at least (or at least MY car) is still closed loop. If it is a really smart piece of software, then instead of the transistor to short to ground, we would need an op amp to subtract the proper voltage that would represent the added O2 from the air pump. If I (or it seems several other posters) knew what was required, the circuit is probably not all that hard. There is, of course, a mechanical solution - drill a hole and inject the air from the air pump in a location that is easier to clean - drilling a hole or two into the connection from the CAT to the manifold and then MIG welding in a fitting is not hard - that might almost be a permanent solution - I wonder, is it worth it? |
I installed the circuit today on my '96. It is beautifully done and very easy to put together. Took a little over an hour to piece everything together and run the wires.
After I was done I ran VAG-COM in OBDII mode during start up and got the same values as flying_low. No CEL, or any soft codes. In the interest of full disclosure, I've had P1411 pop up twice during my ownership of the car. Both times the CEL showed up a good half an hour after I started the car and while driving. Is this normal? My thinking is that if he system detects a clogged port (voltage doesn't drop to 0) at start up then it should then throw a code. Or am I mistaken? Thanks again to flying_low for the schematic and paving the way for this. And a special thank you to Lewis for building these for us! |
so we have independent confirmatio nthat the circuit works on a 96 and we have my statement only that it doesn't work on later cars, right? Has anyone else tried the circuit on a 97 or 98? alternatively, can someone with a working SAI and no CEL tell me what the four sensors read during SAI pump run and immediately after? thanks
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Originally Posted by ilko
(Post 9284440)
I installed the circuit today on my '96. It is beautifully done and very easy to put together. Took a little over an hour to piece everything together and run the wires.
After I was done I ran VAG-COM in OBDII mode during start up and got the same values as flying_low. No CEL, or any soft codes. In the interest of full disclosure, I've had P1411 pop up twice during my ownership of the car. Both times the CEL showed up a good half an hour after I started the car and while driving. Is this normal? My thinking is that if he system detects a clogged port (voltage doesn't drop to 0) at start up then it should then throw a code. Or am I mistaken? Thanks again to flying_low for the schematic and paving the way for this. And a special thank you to Lewis for building these for us! Did you notice any uneven idling or hunting after start-up as some of the others with later cars mentioned? |
Originally Posted by jimbo3
(Post 9285333)
I got a P1411 code a couple of times, too. Same as your's- car thoroughly warmed up, driving along minding my own bidness, then it popped. Cleared it with a scanner and that was the end of it.
Did you notice any uneven idling or hunting after start-up as some of the others with later cars mentioned? I also purposely did not crank with the DME relay out to raise oil pressure like I usually do after a long time of hibernation. Wanted to make sure that it doesn't upset the start up procedure in any way. My understanding is that the SAI pump only runs for the first 30 seconds after a cold start. It is interesting that the code appears when the pump is apparently not running. Or does the pump switch back on later for self diagnosis or any other reason? Does anybody have any insight on that? |
"It is interesting that the code appears when the pump is apparently not running. Or does the pump switch back on later for self diagnosis or any other reason? Does anybody have any insight on that?"
On a side note: A CEL does not necessarily occur when a fault code is present in the DME ECM, i.e. the CEL comes on usually at a later time. This has been observed when driving and setting up the 993 monitors (readiness codes) and none of subsequent cycle flags were being set. A check of the fault codes indicated a 410 code but there was no CEL. Once a fault occurs, the ODBII diagnostics terminate testing on the 993 system. So, a fault code may be present without a CEL. |
Thanks Loren. Can a generic OBDII reader see the soft fault code? Or VAG-COM is OBDII mode? I haven't really played with VAG-COM on the Porsche so I don't know what it's capable of.
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"Can a generic OBDII reader see the soft fault code?"
Yes, any OBDII scanner should read the fault code even if the CEL hasn't turned 'on' yet. |
Originally Posted by ilko
(Post 9284440)
...In the interest of full disclosure, I've had P1411 pop up twice during my ownership of the car. Both times the CEL showed up a good half an hour after I started the car and while driving. Is this normal? ...
I also puzzle on why it should occur here and never upon start up? I have noticed when the light has come on. It's when decelerating, just as I lift off the throttle, or push in the clutch. The RPMs drop toward idle and the CEL comes on. Error code PO410 |
depending on the generic reader, you can read all the OBDII mandatory codes (they all do that, even the $14 harbor freight unit), or those codes plus extra stuff. My unit reads all sorts of stuff off of my suburban, but on the porshce it is limited to the mandatory codes and the dynamic data such as O2 voltages and stuff. being able to see the dynamic data is really helpful to getting the cycle flags to set after changing the battery or clearing a fault.
So, nobody yet has posted a successful result with this simple circuit on a 97 or 98 model year car, only the 96. I would go modify my circuit to try another approach if someone can tell me what the 4 sensors read during the SAI motor run time so I can adjust the circuit accordingly. |
I don't have the problem with my 993, but I have reverse engineered an OBD II ECU used on a different vehicle.
I believe that reason the circuit doesn't work for later cars, (and why the CEL comes on after the engine has been driven for some time) is due to a test of the SAI valve that is done with the engine warm. To perform this test the air pump is activated but the SAI valve controlling the air flow is not opened. This test was likely added in the later 993 ECU. Under these conditions the oxygen sensor voltage should not be affected. A fault will be detected if the valve has a leak, or if you have added this circuit. It would be relatively simple to add this extra signal to inhibit the operation of the circuit unless both the pump is on and the valve is open. John |
"I believe that reason the circuit doesn't work for later cars, (and why the CEL comes on after the engine has been driven for some time) is due to a test of the SAI valve that is done with the engine warm."
A simple test could be done to verify whether this really occurs or not, and results in a non-typical SAI fault: Once the cold start SAI test has been completed, just unplug the air pump. If the previous faults don't re-occur, then the system does test the valve. I doubt this test was incorporated prior to the 996, as I've never heard the pump run once the engine is warm on the many 993s ('97/'98) I've setup for emissions. Again, the CEL will not come on at the same time the fault occurs. A perfect example was a 993 I did this week, which the shop indicated that they had fixed all mis-fire problems, but that the readiness codes would not set. The vehicle had no CEL. Once the trip began, no cycle flags were being set. A check of the faults indicated mis-fires without the CEL being on, which prevented any readiness tests being run. |
Loren - maybe I'll have to bite the bullet and fix this properly by getting the gunk out of the ports - is there any place that shows a cross section so I have a clue what the little holes above the valve stem do once they turn inside the head? In the past the procedure of using solvents like "sea foam" and compressed air works for a while - I made block off plates so I can put pressure on one port at a time but it still takes days and a lot of patience, hence my desire that a bypass circiut work - but maybe a better way is to add some ports onto the manifold for air injection rather than using the ports through the head?
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This may be helpful. See the bottom of the page: http://www.systemsc.com/pictures.htm
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Originally Posted by 4X4SCHE
(Post 9308417)
I don't have the problem with my 993, but I have reverse engineered an OBD II ECU used on a different vehicle.
I believe that reason the circuit doesn't work for later cars, (and why the CEL comes on after the engine has been driven for some time) is due to a test of the SAI valve that is done with the engine warm. To perform this test the air pump is activated but the SAI valve controlling the air flow is not opened. This test was likely added in the later 993 ECU. Under these conditions the oxygen sensor voltage should not be affected. A fault will be detected if the valve has a leak, or if you have added this circuit. It would be relatively simple to add this extra signal to inhibit the operation of the circuit unless both the pump is on and the valve is open. John Yes, it would be trivial to add this hardware logic to the current circuit design and produce a new PCB. |
Originally Posted by 4X4SCHE
(Post 9308417)
I don't have the problem with my 993, but I have reverse engineered an OBD II ECU used on a different vehicle.
I believe that reason the circuit doesn't work for later cars, (and why the CEL comes on after the engine has been driven for some time) is due to a test of the SAI valve that is done with the engine warm. To perform this test the air pump is activated but the SAI valve controlling the air flow is not opened. This test was likely added in the later 993 ECU. Under these conditions the oxygen sensor voltage should not be affected. A fault will be detected if the valve has a leak, or if you have added this circuit. It would be relatively simple to add this extra signal to inhibit the operation of the circuit unless both the pump is on and the valve is open. John I don't have any wiring diagrams or technical information for 993's. I have 6 boards left over from the 100 boards built, so I should be able to hack together a modification and then see if someone with a 97 or 98 can test it. |
Originally Posted by ltc
(Post 9354692)
Do you have any details on this new (SAI valve) signal in a 993?
I don't have any wiring diagrams or technical information for 993's. I have 6 boards left over from the 100 boards built, so I should be able to hack together a modification and then see if someone with a 97 or 98 can test it. |
The existing circuit is activated by the presence of +12. I see a couple of possibilities - the simplest is to add an PNP transistor, such as a 2n2907 in series so that both the SAI and the pump have to be active. I suppose that another of the same FETs could (would?) be a better choice but I am not as conversant with using FETs - so any advice could be helpful. a third way is to use a relay. I made my circuits with a quick disconnect, so it should be easy enough to patch that in, but I can't this week.
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If you wish to go old school, you could recall the days of DTL (before TTL came into the mainstream) and build a DTL NAND gate with just a couple of diodes and resistor added to the existing circuit ... (no, no need for vacuum tubes)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diode–transistor_logic It is just a matter of confirming that the new signal is active high true (i.e. 12VDC = ON = VALVE OPEN) |
I had thought of DTL - a diode OR to be specific, but we need an AND function - both the motor and the SAI must be 12V to activate - maybe I'm getting rusty but I don't see an easy way to do that with two diodes and a resistor - am I missing something? (I suppose if you rely on the impedance of the source pulling the signal down to zero when not energized, that would do the trick, reverse the diodes and pull up to 12V with the resistor.....)
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Originally Posted by william_b_noble
(Post 9309846)
Loren - maybe I'll have to bite the bullet and fix this properly by getting the gunk out of the ports - is there any place that shows a cross section so I have a clue what the little holes above the valve stem do once they turn inside the head? In the past the procedure of using solvents like "sea foam" and compressed air works for a while - I made block off plates so I can put pressure on one port at a time but it still takes days and a lot of patience, hence my desire that a bypass circiut work - but maybe a better way is to add some ports onto the manifold for air injection rather than using the ports through the head?
That might help you understand the SAI passages and where they go. Cheers, Mike |
Originally Posted by william_b_noble
(Post 9359655)
I had thought of DTL - a diode OR to be specific, but we need an AND function - both the motor and the SAI must be 12V to activate - maybe I'm getting rusty but I don't see an easy way to do that with two diodes and a resistor - am I missing something? (I suppose if you rely on the impedance of the source pulling the signal down to zero when not energized, that would do the trick, reverse the diodes and pull up to 12V with the resistor.....)
(NAND/AND ... just a matter of taking the output from the emitter or collector I suppose) You could also just use a dual optocoupler or use a single CMOS AND/NAND gate as well. Is it really as simple as just having both motor and SAI valve at 12VDC to turn on the 4 output FETs? if that is the case, then a solution for 97-98 993's is very easy. in fact, the new circuit could be used for both 96 as well as 97/98 by just tying the 2 inputs together for the 96 case. |
A simple RTL AND gate, as you mentioned, would work:
http://www.transtutors.com/universit...AND%20Gate.JPG However, it would require bringing in a 12V lead for bias. If I have some spare time, I would like to think about doing it without the need for a bias supply, similar to the current 96 implementation. |
Originally Posted by Mike J
(Post 9359801)
Look at the engine rebuilding thread on my web site, specifically http://www.pcarworkshop.com/index.ph...e_SAI_passages.
That might help you understand the SAI passages and where they go. Cheers, Mike |
OK, if I understand the requirements for the 97 and 98...both the SAI pump AND the newly added SAI valve signals must be 12V in order for the O2 sensors to be shorted by the MOSFETs (please correct me if I'm wrong in this assumption based on the previous posts)... then I believe I have an updated design.
(there are moments when being an insomniac with OCD does have its advantages ;) ) The updated circuit should work for both 96 (which has been tested successfully with the current circuit's single input... SAI PUMP only) and the 97/98 (assuming they are both the same and they follow the assumptions at the top of this post). I can assemble a modified (Frankenstein) circuit using 2 of the 6 spare boards from the first build. If someone can test this on a 97/98, please let me know. |
"OK, if I understand the requirements for the 97 and 98...both the SAI pump AND the newly added SAI valve signals must be 12V in order for the O2 sensors to be shorted by the MOSFETs (please correct me if I'm wrong in this assumption based on the previous posts)."
Right, which has been the case all along, i.e. both the valve and the pump are wired together thus both getting power at the same time. So the present workaround when powering the SAI relay powers both the valve and the pump. Please check the Porsche '97/'98 993 diagrams WKD 483121 per Sheet 5B and the '96 diagram Sheet 5B, i.e. both the valve & pump are wired the same, before designing workaround circuits |
Originally Posted by Lorenfb
(Post 9363512)
"OK, if I understand the requirements for the 97 and 98...both the SAI pump AND the newly added SAI valve signals must be 12V in order for the O2 sensors to be shorted by the MOSFETs (please correct me if I'm wrong in this assumption based on the previous posts)."
Right, which has been the case all along, i.e. both the valve and the pump are wired together thus both getting power at the same time. So the present workaround when powering the SAI relay powers both the valve and the pump. Please check the Porsche '97/'98 993 diagrams WKD 483121 per Sheet 5B and the '96 diagram Sheet 5B, i.e. both the valve & pump are wired the same, before designing workaround circuits I was simply trying to donate my electronic skills to help fellow members. If someone can define the function necessary, I can implement the hardware. |
I'll look at the Porsche schematic later, but if Loren is right, and I have no reason to believe otherwise, then the speculation about the SAI valve being monitored in the later 993s is not correct and the reason the circuit doesn't work in the later cars is still unknown.
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OK, I looked at the schematic for the 97, specifically diagram 97-131, look in zone M-150 on the diagram and it shows the secondary air pump and the SAI valve - and as Loren said, they are wired to the same +12 excitation. The exictation comes to the motor and valve via connector X60 pin 3. The exictation is via a relay that is driven from pin 37 of the computer.
So, I don't see any value in adding another input. I have attached the relevant part of the schematic to this post |
here is what the 993 OBD manual, 1995 has to say:
P0410 Secondary Air Injection Signal Implausible (cylinders 1 - 3) P1411 Secondary Air Injection Signal Implausible (cylinders 4 - 6) Function To improve emissions and to faster heat the three way catalytic converter (TWC), the secondary air injection pump is activated after the engine is started and when the engine is cold, thus blowing secondary air behind the discharge valves. If the engine temperature at start-up is less than - 10° C, the secondary air injection pump is disabled until the engine temperature has reached more than 60° C. Diagnosis runs while the secondary air injection system is active. The voltage of the oxygen sensors is checked by the ECM during this time. there is additoinal information on page C-12 and 13 of the manual of the manual. Secondary air diagnostic Through the secondary air system additional oxygen is introduced behind the exhaust valves to reduce harmful emissions. This occurs after starting the engine within a defined engine temperature range and for a predetermined time. While the secondary air injection is active, the diagnosis of the system is being performed. During the diagnosis of the secondary air system, additional air behind the exhaust valves creates a surplus of oxygen at the oxygen sensors causing a reduction of the voltage at the oxygen sensors ahead of the Three Way Catalytic Converter The diagnosis checks in a predetermined rpm/load and temperature segment whether the sensor voltage is too low or too high because of missing secondary air. There is a graph on page 13 that seems to suggest that the sensor voltage should be around 100 mv instead of above 450 mv. A forward biased silicon diode is about 700 mv - I wonder if there is a way to introduce a 100 mv offset in the ground for our magic circuit - something simple??? |
Loren (or anyone else) - can you please confirm that on a car without the CEL the sensors both before and after the catalytic converter read about 100 mv? when the weather meets my fancy, I'll try adding some adjustment to the circuit and see if I can get it to read whatever the right value is, maybe that will work.
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"can you please confirm that on a car without the CEL the sensors both before and after the catalytic converter read about 100 mv?"
Will check for the actual values the next time a readiness test is done. But from what can be remembered, they never reach zero. The voltage is in the order of 10s of millivolts but less than 100 mv. |
Summary to date....
This is what I believe we know to date:
1. The circuit, as currently implemented, has been successfully tested on several 96 993's. 2. I did receive the following feedback from a 98 993 owner who tested the circuit: Just wanted to let you know that the SAI bypass works for me - my car is a 1998 C2S....no issues... and then, I changed the wires myself from blue to black at a later time. My guess... just from my own observations...is that the wires that are spliced in to the porsche terminals are not seated properly by the installer, so not making a good connection. (when I changed the wires from blue to black - within a day I had the CEL come back.... but then I re-seated the wires.... and it disappeared) Also note, that when we did the install and reset the errors.... I came back a week later to check on his OBD about the readiness codes.... everything was fully ready ! (we were both surprised) - all I did in the interim week was one bmw-warm up drive cycle. (and not a very good one at that) So, based on a small sample size, and based on the information above that the SAI Pump and SAI Valve are driven by the same single line, the current implementation appears to be work, or at least be worthy of additional user feedback. |
"based on a small sample size"
One. And how many boards were sold, i.e. '96 - ?, '97/'98 - ?. |
Originally Posted by Lorenfb
(Post 9375276)
"based on a small sample size"
One. And how many boards were sold, i.e. '96 - ?, '97/'98 - ?. I do not know which members owned what model year. It would seem that you question any RL member who reports that the board addressed their issue, yet you can not look at the design and state why it should or should not work, even with your commercial knowledge and expertise with Porsche ECU's. Again, if you have any design inputs, I would be glad to implement the design. |
"It would seem that you question any RL member who reports that the board addressed their issue,"
Not really. It would be great if others can come forward to provide more feedback. As of now, there's one late 993 where there's positive results and one with negative results. "yet you can not look at the design and state why it should or should not work" There's nothing wrong with the design nor the implementation. It's just possible that some wrong assumptions were made about the late 993. At this time, not having access to a late 993, I don't know what the problem (if there is one) may be. That's why more late 993 purchasers need to provide feedback. |
what we do know from the two reports with respect to later cars, mine and the C4S, is the following:
1. the C4s owner cleared the CEL, and I am suspicious that the car has not satisfied the cycle flag, the flags will not set in one drive cycle no matter what. The C4s reports success 2. the C2 (me) did NOT reset the CEL. In the past, when I've cleared the passages using solvents and air, the CEL clears itself on the second drive cycle after the repair. This did not happen using the circuit. I just checked and my car (according to the Garmin unit, not cross checked with my OBDII reader) says it has a P0410 (SAI fault) and a P0411 (unknown) code. I suspect I have much higher mileage (150K) than the C4S but that should not matter. Note that I did verify that the circult as installed in my car was working - all four sensors read zero volts per my OBDII reader during the SAI pump run time, so I didn't mess up the connection or the circuit - and the car idled worse when the circuit was active than when it was not active - that says something too. |
A possible solution, if the problem is a minimum O2 voltage, is to connect both front FET
sources to a voltage reference of 10 - 20 millivolts. This is easily made using a 10K ohm & a 10 ohm resistors in series. The 10K is connected to the input voltage and the 10 ohm resistor to ground with the junction of the resistors connected to the FET sources. This will provide a little more than 10 millivolts when the FETs turn on which prevents the O2 sensors' voltage reaching less than a potential minimum. If that voltage is still too low, the 10K can be reduced to 6.8K resulting in about 20 mv. |
the real question is, "is the problem a minum non zero O2 voltage" or is it something else? Is there a third person who has tried this with a 97 or 98? I suppose I can hook the circuit as is back up and see what happens or add a resistor divider as loren suggests, or for more stable voltage, use a resistor divider across a silicon diode (series of 10K and forward biased diode to form .7V ref, and then a divider across the .7 - 100 ohms to ground, in series with 20K to the + side of the diode will give about 20 mv with ore stability). But I wonder, can the computer really distinguish 20 mv from zero given the noise pickup in the wires? This just doesn't seem right...
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"But I wonder, can the computer really distinguish 20 mv from zero given the noise pickup in the wires?"
So without doing any testing & analysis one can continue to guess and hypothesize. "for more stable voltage, use a resistor divider across a silicon diode" Not really. The diode voltage will vary from .50 volts to .90 volts over an engine compartment temp change. Besides, the closer the source voltage gets to desired voltage the greater will be the effect of changes on the desired voltage, e.g. 13V & 12 mv ~ 1000:1, so 14V results in 1 mv change. Using a diode results in; 750 mv & 12 mv ~ 60:1, or for +/- 200mv over temp the change is +/- 3mv. |
I guess the best thing is to just make the resistor divider and see what happens, but it would sure be nice to know what is really needed. I think you are right that the diode won't add much to the circuit and in fact might detract. If I have some spare time and energy this weekend I'll see if I can try adding the divider. But with my OBD tester, I can't really watch the SAI test in any detail so I can't tell if I'm doing good or not other than to let several drive cycles pass and see if the CEL goes off.
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"I'll see if I can try adding the divider."
You might also try a 5K ohm versus the 10K. This will give about 20 mv. Doing this test should eliminate a minimum voltage as being the issue. |
Has Round 2 of these puppies still be openor made by someone here? Is so, can I get on the list with enclosure. Do not mind paying in advance. I just failed my emissions - low volts pre and after on my 96.
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Failed emissions !
How do you know the pre and after 02 sensors failed and which side ?
Vertex sells them (BOSCH w/ correct connectors) for tad over $100 each. (1996 172k mile C4S) just replaced the two right side 02 sensors and still failed (error 1123) so now I have to change the left side 02 sensors. If that still fails i will change that vapor canister. Have already changed all 12 plugs with lower #6 plug taking a freaking week to change ! Luckily I just got a mid-rise lift. Every State offers a waiver which for me is Pa. Engine total rebuild in 2010 to cure SAI error. Also, replaced imploding pre gas tank and gas cap. 100% emission free but CEL fails the thing every time regardless. :crying: AUTEL has a $20 OBDII reader which if your SAI is clogged get to the emission station before the CEL shows. Just let AUTEL tell you when the readiness for SAI sensor hits and then gettie-up before the brain yields the CEL; used to work for me every year until the #3 piston leaked oil and thus the rebuild. Now no SAI error.http://www.bluerayweddingdvd.com/dsc00292.jpg |
The other day a '96 993 was driven (2 trips, 45 min) to set the monitors (readiness codes).
Each time the SAI test was run, one side indicated a min O2 voltage of 56 mv and the other side indicated 14 mv. Each time the SAI test passed. So the O2 voltage, per the DME ECM, can be as high as 56 mv and pass on a '96 993. |
Two trips ????
I have a 1996 C4S and after multiple trips, and just about in the red on the gas left, still SAI+CAT+O2+02 heater not ready yet.
Just curious if others have noted that when the SAI at last reaches it rediness status that there is a grace period, or RS delay, until the CCU actually emits the CEL On status ? I have found that it is about 50 miles before the CEl actually is ON. Thus perhaps your example was tested during this grace period ? (eventually the SAI will reach CEL ON status). Thus, if there was a way to extend the grace period to inifinty the CEL would never reach ON. |
Here is what my Durametric gave me:
Bosch Digital Motor Electronics Motronic 5.2 Module Identification Block 0 (ECU Type) M07 Block 1 (Porsche Part Number) 99361860400 Block 2 (Vendor Part Number) 0261204008 Block 3 (Software Number) 1037355481 Block 4 36950001204 Current Fault Codes 35: Oxygen sensing range 1||Cylinder (4-6) 27: Oxygen sensing range 1||Cylinder (1-3) IIRC going to the fault code section showed me low voltages. Maybe I do not need this board, but rather need to replace the O2 sensors? |
Throw $$$ at it !
I just installed the two right side 02 sensors, easy with 22mm spanner. I have the left side two 02 sensors ($110 ea from Vertex with the correct grey+black connectors) but not installed them yet. This following several errors that failed State emissions on my 172k miles 993 C4S. Also, found broken belt in the dist and RL member sold me a rebuild dist for $500. Also, replaced all 12 plugs (used BOSCH over Berus) and now I am awaiting the readiness codes to become active. I am on my 2nd full tank trying to get the codes ready for re emission State inspection. So far no readiness on several sensors but so far no CEL either !
If I were you I would replace all 02 sensors as then you will not have issues with much older 02 sensors yielding out of spec readings. BUT FIRST, inspect the air cleaner, is it dirty ? Also, inspect the Mass Air Flow sensor.The MAF element can be cleaned. Try un plugging and re plugging in the MAF sensor connector. Also, check for an air leak from one of the many vac lines. By chance is the fuel evaporator showing signs of imploding, if so the gas cap could be bad or the fuel vapor cannister may be replacing. BTW: I had the total $12k rebuild two years for constant SAI errors and at the moment still no SAI errors. Current problems were random misfires due to broken dist belt and now too rich on one side (which i hope the new 02 sensors fixed). |
as I recall, the SAI test requires that you idle after cold start for about 5 minutes twice.
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Originally Posted by Lorenfb
(Post 9392751)
The other day a '96 993 was driven (2 trips, 45 min) to set the monitors (readiness codes).
Each time the SAI test was run, one side indicated a min O2 voltage of 56 mv and the other side indicated 14 mv. Each time the SAI test passed. So the O2 voltage, per the DME ECM, can be as high as 56 mv and pass on a '96 993. looks like one can make a divider for about 40 mv and be safe |
"was that minimum for both sensors on each side or for the before CAT sensors?"
Right, the two front sensors, as the SAI test only 'looks' at the front sensors. |
well, that's excellent information - the "magic circuit" drags all 4 sensors to zero - maybe just dragging the front sensors down will do the trick?
by the way, how did you come upon the information that the SAI test only looks at the pre-CAT sensor? did I miss something or is there yet another secret book of stuff some where? curious minds want to know. |
"by the way, how did you come upon the information that the SAI test only looks at the pre-CAT sensor?"
By definition, what's the purpose of the SAI test and where's the best/logical place to test its functionality? And, why would you additionally check after the CAT, i.e. what's to be gained in an evaluation further down-stream? |
Originally Posted by william_b_noble
(Post 9407356)
as I recall, the SAI test requires that you idle after cold start for about 5 minutes twice.
Personally I replace O2 sensors as pairs but not as left/right pairs. I replace them as both pre-cat or both post cat (although I can't remember needing to change a post-cat sensor). I may be over thinking the issue but it makes sense to me that if one sensor (say right side) is new and the left has significant miles on it you may get different readings to the ECU for one bank of cylinders over the other. I went through a SAI issue on my '97 M3 last summer and after replacing all the SAI parts (pump, valve and hoses) replacing the pair of pre-cat sensors resolved the problem. I have not touched the post cat sensors. |
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