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How To Jack Up A 993

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Old 07-09-2011, 02:53 PM
  #16  
porscheralph
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Mark - is that your new "track" car.
Old 07-09-2011, 03:07 PM
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Cactus
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Originally Posted by Mark in Baltimore
When I read the thread title and saw that the OP was Cactus, this is what I thought would be inside:
When Andreas passes out in Thomas we are going to do that to his car. Overhaulin.....Thomas, WV edition
Old 07-09-2011, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Cactus
Cactuswagen looks good as hovercraft, a time-honored Porsche tradition
Old 07-09-2011, 03:18 PM
  #19  
Mark in Baltimore
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Originally Posted by porscheralph
Mark - is that your new "track" car.
It's my new track *****.

There's a Tawny Kitaen joke somewhere in there.

Originally Posted by Cactus
When Andreas passes out in Thomas we are going to do that to his car. Overhaulin.....Thomas, WV edition
Do let me know what day you do that so I can go into my bunker to avoid the nuclear blast.
Old 07-09-2011, 03:30 PM
  #20  
Edward
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Originally Posted by Mark in Baltimore
When I read the thread title and saw that the OP was Cactus, this is what I thought would be inside:
Hey Mark,

I gotta admit, when I saw the thread line "jacked up" I was definitely thinking along the lines of that pic ...yeaow!!!

Edward
Old 07-09-2011, 04:22 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Cactus
Next throw a hockey puck on the jack pad and place under the engine as shown
I'm sorry but a Flyers puck just won't cut it.
Old 07-10-2011, 01:37 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by timothymoffat
I'm sorry but a Flyers puck just won't cut it.
I thought that was the reason this "trick' worked so well
Old 07-10-2011, 01:38 AM
  #23  
pcarhombre
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P.S.: Cactus, maybe a caution for newbies that might still have their tray in place Oops!
Old 07-10-2011, 09:02 AM
  #24  
DanL993
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Originally Posted by 911Dave
I like this method just fine as long as the car isn't lowered too much or your jack doesn't have a low enough profile, or is not long enough to reach the engine jacking point without hitting the rear bumper. This is the problem I have, especially when the front is raised up on the 2x4 first. My jack is too short and not low enough.

My method is as follows:

1. Use the rear side jacking point to raise up one side of the car just enough to put stacked 2x8's under both the front and the rear tires. The stacked 2-bys give you about 3.5" of lift.
2. Lower back down so both front and rear tires are resting on the 2x8's.
3. Do the same on the other side.
4. Now you have enough room on both ends of the car to get your jack under there. Raise the rear under the engine and place the car on jack stands.
5. Raise the front using the method Cactus described and set on jack stands.
6. Lower it back down in reverse order.
+1 I find that I need to jack the front wheels first onto ramps (lower than the jack stands) in order for the jack to get under the rear bumper. The tilt causes the bumper to lower too much if I put the front on stands first.

He's right about the rearward creep as the rear comes up--ask me how I know (no crashing sound--but close)!!
Old 07-10-2011, 10:34 AM
  #25  
911Dave
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Originally Posted by DanL993
+1 I find that I need to jack the front wheels first onto ramps
You mean the rear wheels onto ramps first.

If you chock the front wheels before lifting the rear, the car won't creep but the jack will. Chocking is especially necessary if you're jacking on a surface that isn't perfectly level. Most garage floors are pitched slightly.
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Old 07-10-2011, 04:14 PM
  #26  
DanL993
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Originally Posted by 911Dave
You mean the rear wheels onto ramps first.

If you chock the front wheels before lifting the rear, the car won't creep but the jack will. Chocking is especially necessary if you're jacking on a surface that isn't perfectly level. Most garage floors are pitched slightly.
I do chock the front wheels but chocked them in the front--didn't think things would go backwards.

No I did mean the front Dave--but that's a good idea about the rear first onto the ramps. Will try that next time. Thanks.
Old 07-10-2011, 05:28 PM
  #27  
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Thanks for the write-up and photos, Cactizzle.

Almost identical to my own technique, except that I usually start with a cold car on the ground, so I don't drive up my front 2x6s. Actually, I have a sandwich of two 2x6s to provide me with a little more angle/clearance when raising the rear. I also chock the front wheels now, as my new garage has a slight slope.

If I were to do it again, I would have used 2x8s. 2x6s are so narrow for our wide-ish tires.
Old 07-10-2011, 08:18 PM
  #28  
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I've used this method countless times for 5 years. Simple, safe, and gets the job done. As someone else mentioned, the front is very easy to lift with the weight of the engine acting on the 'lever'. I keep the lifting board as far forward on the pan as possible. No issues.


Andreas
Old 07-10-2011, 08:33 PM
  #29  
911Dave
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Originally Posted by DanL993
No I did mean the front Dave--but that's a good idea about the rear first onto the ramps. Will try that next time. Thanks.
ah yes, now I got it. I misunderstood your post at first.

My problem is my jack doesn't have a low enough profile to get it under either end of the car if the other end is already on stands. I really need to spend some dough for an AC jack!
Old 07-10-2011, 08:35 PM
  #30  
911Dave
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Why oh why did Porsche see fit to eliminate the side jack tube that makes jacking a 65-89 911 so easy?


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