A/C question
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
A/C question
Greetings all; I did the oil cooler fan manual switch upgrade this weekend and it went off without a hitch thanks to all the help from p-car.com and from searching the archives.
My question relates to the A/C now - not sure if it's coincidence or not, but just noticed that my A/C was generally ambient air temps and not cooling down much today even on the max setting/hi-speed. Today was the first warm day in the bay area in a few weeks and so I'm wondering if in the process of doing the fan switch upgrade I might have messed up something with the CCU somehow; can't see how this could have happened as I didn't even remove the CCU - I just found the green/blk wire in the wire bundle and it was the only wire I clipped.
Anyways, trying to figure out if I might have messed up something or whether my A/C just needs recharging (as it hasn't been recharged in the 8 yrs that I've owned it), or if possibly the evaporator or something else in the system decided to call it quits. Are there any simple tests that might help me diagnose before I bring it in to the shop? Thanks.
My question relates to the A/C now - not sure if it's coincidence or not, but just noticed that my A/C was generally ambient air temps and not cooling down much today even on the max setting/hi-speed. Today was the first warm day in the bay area in a few weeks and so I'm wondering if in the process of doing the fan switch upgrade I might have messed up something with the CCU somehow; can't see how this could have happened as I didn't even remove the CCU - I just found the green/blk wire in the wire bundle and it was the only wire I clipped.
Anyways, trying to figure out if I might have messed up something or whether my A/C just needs recharging (as it hasn't been recharged in the 8 yrs that I've owned it), or if possibly the evaporator or something else in the system decided to call it quits. Are there any simple tests that might help me diagnose before I bring it in to the shop? Thanks.
#2
Rennlist Member
8 years since your last A/C confession? :-) Start with a recharge and let them put some dye in to spot any leaks. Evap leaks are hard to spot, but keep an eye on the drain hose outlet by the steering rack.
Cheers,
Tore
www.ccu.tore.bergvill.com
Cheers,
Tore
www.ccu.tore.bergvill.com
#3
Racer
The AC fan resistor fails like the oil cooler fan one does. When working correctly the fan should be running on low and cycle thru high . When it fails it stops on low and cuts in out on high only.This results in wide swings of the vent temps. Start by feeling or listening for air flow in the drivers side fender grill when AC on and car is idleing.
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Efong,
Same issue here. I went and bought a $8 thermostat you place in your vents to see how cold it gets. I was running 66 degrees, which equals cool but not cold. I bought a $15 gauge to measure coolant, which said I was low. Took it to a shop and added some coolant, and now ice cold readings in the 40s degrees area.
I could have added coolant myself, but I didn't want to screw anything up.
Same issue here. I went and bought a $8 thermostat you place in your vents to see how cold it gets. I was running 66 degrees, which equals cool but not cold. I bought a $15 gauge to measure coolant, which said I was low. Took it to a shop and added some coolant, and now ice cold readings in the 40s degrees area.
I could have added coolant myself, but I didn't want to screw anything up.
#7
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
You can jumper that AC fan on one of the relays to test it and force it to run on high even if the resistor is bad ... a search should turn it up, can't recall the specifics anymore.