levtron

Ok...

Here is one for your 'experts' to help/solve...

Today, during AX @ Devens, my 993 would not start for a while.. This happened after the change over from morning to afternoon, so the car was sitting for about an 1 hr parked.

So what do I mean not start..

My car has the immobilizer 'feature', I would love not to have it, but that's a different story. Anyway, I got in the car, pressed the FAB button, inserted the key,the car lights and buzzing sound started, I rolled the key, and nothing happened. I thought that since I the windows were open, that perhaps they the car got stuck in some 'immobilizer' reset. I closed windows, sunroof, opened and closed the trunk/hood, locked the car, waited a minute, re-opened the car.. still nothing... Since my run group was running already, I started to freak out, (great day, and we got were getting extra runs due to low attendance). I pulled the DME relay, even swiped with another one, still nothing. I went thru the same procedure a few times... Nothing... Finally, after about 10 min of trying, I got in the car, Yelled "Please... Just F&**%%ing Start already" and it DID...

I did my runs (also set a a new best time for myself (thank you, thank you), pulled over to and was afraid of turning the car off, since I had to still drive home, and it was the last run of the day. I finally broke down and shut the car off, thinking it would be fine... I imiadetly tried to restart.... SAME thing. This this time we pulled the battery cable, and it started back up.

This happened to me a few weeks ago, not on a AX day, but in the afternoon, after an oil change, going to pick up bbq wings. I pulled some relays, and then locked the car up, windows, etc... , and it restarted.

When I lock the car, the light on the door flashes fast for about 10 seconds, and then flashes once every secondish. I am not sure if its the immobilizer or what. Some one suggested fuel pump or solenoid


Any ideas????

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Naturally, one asks how old the battery is,.......anything beyond 4 years is borrowed time. I would clean the batter terminals and clamps so they are bright, shiny, and clean.

After that, the most suspect is a faulty DME relay. These control the power to the DME as well as the fuel pump and any problems manifest themselves with a "no start" condition where the car will crank but not run. DME relays are fairly highly stressed so anyone with a Motronic-equipped car like yours should carry a few spare relays in the glovebox to keep from being stranded.

Hope this helps you,

993RS

I had a similar problem. I have had problems with the DME before, but this time it did not help. First they tried exchanging the temperauture sensor, which did not help. Finally it was the starter. New starter, and all was OK.

levtron

The battery is under 4 years old. So i ruled that out already, thanks!

I don't think its the DME either. The one I have is only 2 years old. I did try swapping it with another one, and it did not help. :-( / :-)

With the starter, did it make any noise when you turned the key over, or was it silent?

993RS

It started a little but did not ignite. Irritating was that it would ignite OK for a while (for days), then suddenly not.

lexart

Just another data point . . .

I was right next to Lev's car at Devens when he had this no-start condition. When the immobilizer is disarmed and the key is turned in the ignition, you would hear a single audible click from the engine compartment. The starter would not turn. Just one click as if the starter is trying to engage but doesn't. Is there a solenoid that could be making this single click?

tigerrat

My money would be on the starter but wouldn't hurt to check the battery at rest voltage and see if it's about 12.5v. Also clean its connections. Ken

got*ki

Exact same "single click" happened to me a couple of months ago. I would have to re-try (sometimes up to 6-7 times) and with every re-try you get silence. While it doesn't appear to be battery related, since my battery was old anyway, I changed it out and the situation happened a couple more times then oddly enough has since disappeared. I think the problem may still be around but it hasn't surfaced since the couple of times it did when I first installed the new battery.

(Although, I'm thinking starter, as well)
I'm fiollowing this thread for the correct solution...thanks for posting it

shadow993

I had the same problem. I wasn't getting the click in the rear when I turned the key. After I push started it,all was fine. However, after I got home and turned the key a few times the click sound got softer and softer after I would turn the key back and forth a few times. My gut says weak battery.

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

JMHO,.....

Never assume anything: measure the battery voltage with a good DVOM. Make certain the terminals, clamps, & cables at both ends of both cables are bright, shiny, and clean.

DME relay quality has been questionable for quite some time and I've seen them fail inside of a year. Thats why I now recommend carrying a pair of spares.

Have your shop test the starter and solenoid to see their draw-in current and voltage drop.

d ward

Hi, had same problem a while back, tried lots of different things without luck, turned out to be battery earth strap, looked like new, but when I put the multimeter on it, it was showing very high resistance

geolab

there are two kinds of clicks people are talking about here.
One is starter noise from starter or battery issues.
One is the sound of the levers and flaps on the varioram.

When you turn key to start position, the flaps actuate on the varioram thru vacuum. One of the tests to check system vacuum functionality.

Now to test immobilizer--- In the ROW version, the solenoid flaps would not operate when immobilizer is ON. All engine electrics are cut.
If (amp-993C2) is hearing the click from varioram, then immobilizer is switched OFF and car should start. (thus starter or battery going mad)
But I stress I am talking about ROW, not sure of immobilizer in US version.
no expert here, just increasing my posts number

nile13

I was also next to Lev's car Sunday when it was doing it's thing. Heard the click and it didn't sound to me like the starter click. I think starter click would be much louder. That can be easily checked for comparison purposes.

Interestingly, at the end of the day Lev disconnected the battery, reconnected it and the car started. Although I was not sure if it was still blinking the code on the door LED.

If Geo is correct (which he is 98.9% of teh time), whatever click we heard must mean that immobilizer was disarmed at that moment. Which also point me to look at the battery and than at the starter before diving into the deeper and darker end of trying to understand immobilizer.

lexart

Now this makes more sense. The clicking noise was coming from the top of the engine, which didn't make sense at the time as I was expecting starter solenoid click to come from bottom right side. The clicking points more towards the varioram trying to do its thang . . .

I also don't think its the immobilizer. The immobilizer passes its tests as indicated by rapid then slow LED flashes on the door panel. The clicking also indicates that there's power to at lest varioram flaps and likely the starter. So far my bet is on weak battery or the starter. The round strap is something to check as well . . .

levtron

update..

checked volts this am. it was showing 12.32 with earth disconnected. it started up, took it for a spin to get battery post cleaner. after returning tested again, and it was unto 12.62. cleaned posts and wires, but only on side of battery, will try other ends tomorrow.

in afternoon drove about 30 min, parked for about 30 min, and got stuck again, tried battery disconnect, nothing, but push start got it going (thanks random folks in bmw).

just went to sears (please no laughs) and had them test battery. The Optima was bought there 06/06. They did a load test avg of 12.45v, also charging @ 13.6v @ 2200rpm. Tech said I should replace battery, but he thought it was starter/solenoid issue.

im going to replace battery tomorrow just because and see what happens. I need to get A/B controller reset, so will ask for starter check when I go.