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You won't be able to replace any seal without removing the rack and taking it apart. All 'seals' are inside the rack.
You could replace the left steering rack boot though. And this may keep fluid off the garage floor for a while, but it too will fail and start leaking again at some point.
Originally Posted by dsetty
That's kind of my plan, but I was also hoping to replace the left outer seals while the rack was still installed. I can't tell from the instructions or exploded views if they can be replaced without complete disassembly of the rack. I was hoping it would be like replacing a seal on a transmission output shaft or engine crack shaft.
Rack rebuilt, installed, and tested - no leaks. I'll give it a couple of weeks of driving to be 100%. Meanwhile, my suspension guy will finish up the rear shocks, ride height an alignment.
If you are ever in Madison, WI and need an alignment or suspension work - try Jim at Accurate Alignment. He is truly a master at his craft.
One more thing - if any one knows the part number of the o-rings on the pressure lines that move fluid across the outside of the rack, they are not in the kits and can leak. I struggled to find the exact size, but what I did find was close. I also replaced the 4 washer gaskets at the rack that seal the input\output lines from the pump. Pelican Info:
Copper Sealing Ring, D12 x 15.5
Part #: 12-X-16-X-1.5-CU-M131
I had same problem and bought a selection from McMaster. Picked the one that seemed a bit fatter, smaller ID and larger OD than the ones I took off. Hard to say how much they shrunk in 20 years. But so far, my rebuild has been solid. 7000 miles and counting.
If anyone has more DIY tech articles with excellent details like this one; check out the below link - we will review the submission and if published on our site, we will give you 10% off and a credit. Please let me know if you have any questions!
Thanks for putting this together! Mine blew both sides last night. KLA still has these seal kits and he was kind enough to overnight them to me so I can get the car repaired in time for the track next week!
You're in luck. I kept a copy of bcaway's clearly documented process on my laptop. Bear in mind it's instructions for a RHD. Very similar to LHD but with some differences in both parts and process which have been documented in this thread.
It's a solid fix, mines been good for going on ten years now.
Thanks everyone.. Now I have one more question. Unfortunately I didn't have the Universal joint tied down well enough in the footwell and the entire piece came out. I got that back in place with no issue.
The problem is I am pretty sure I over rotated my steering wheel and potentially broke the Airbag contact pin. Does anyone know the best way to figure out (without opening up the steering wheel) if its broken, AND also figure out where the straight or neutral steering wheel position should be?
05-03-2016, 09:03 AM
