Top Control Moule Removal Detailed Instructions
02-05-2011, 03:23 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Top Control Moule Removal Detailed Instructions
Detailed removal of top control module
My 1997 993 top would not close. When I opened the top it stayed in the open position. After reading all the posting in the forum I did some trouble shooting and concluded that the top control module was the culprit. I checked the fuse #13, it was OK. I disconnected the rear top motor electrical cable and no voltage reading so no current at the motor. Tested the dashboard up and down switch and had continuity. The only thing left was the control module. I am posting a detailed pictorial instruction on how to remove the top control module. The information is scattered in many posting in bits and pieces; you have to fill in a lot of blanks. This is an attempt to fill those blanks.
Tools needed
1 - 10 mm swivel joint socket with a long extension. You must have a swivel joint socket or it will be very difficult if not impossible for you to reach the nuts.
2- Several length screw drivers both positive and negative. You need a short positive to remove the vent holding screw. A long negative to work the locking motors when in manual mode.
Removal of air vent
It is a must to remove the air vent. If you do not then this job will grow exponential in complexity. If you remove the air vent you do not have to crawl under the dashboard to do the job, I will explain.
Remove the side screw Figure #1 and the triangular plastic cover. Now use two table knives to depress the latching clips that hold the vent in position. Aircooled posting “Removal of Side Vent” posting gave me the clue I needed, he is the pioneer gets all the credit. Position the knives above the two square holes in the vent just below the gas tank opening ****. Gently push and wiggle the knives until they are in about ½ to a ¼ inch, see Figure#2. Grab the vent on the side and pull straight out. You might have to wiggle the vent as you pull it out. The vent will disengage from the duct as you pull it out. Figures #3 and #4 show the clips and how the knives are the necessary tool to depress them. It is impossible to grab the springs through the inside of the square holes. Figure #5 is a reference picture.
Removal of Control Module
Now that the vent is out you have all the visual information you need to complete the job see figure #6 and 6A.
The VDO module and the Control module are positioned one on top of the other. You have to remove the VDO first. They are both located on the left of the steering wheel under the dash board. Both boxes are fastened by chasse mounted threaded studs. Unscrew the left VDO nut. This is the nut you see from the vent opening. Use the extension swivel joint socket. Then using a mirror locate the right nut see Figure #7. I was able to reach in and touch the nut then I inserted the socket which I guided with my free hand. Turn until the nut comes out with the socket. Now you can pull down on the box and remove it from the studs. The box removal requires some maneuvering as it gets stuck with all of the harnesses that are around that area. Be careful and gently get it out so that you can reach the connectors and unplug them see figure #8.
Now you are ready for the control module. Again start with the left one which is the one you see. The nuts in this module have an integral hollow stem which will prevent the nut from being removed with the socket. It will come out when you pull the box from the studs. For the right hand nut use the mirror technique again. Stick your hand in and fill were it is. Then insert the socket with your other hand. The free hand will help attach it to the nut. Unscrew the nut and pull the box out of the studs. I was able to do this maneuver without having to crawl under the dash board. Kneel on the side of the car next to the door and this way you can insert your left hand to do all the detection of the nuts and guiding of the socket.
Pull the Control Module gently down until you can get to the connectors. Use a pair of pliers and a piece of cloth to remove them, see figure #9. Grab the connector tab as close as possible to the base and pull straight back so you do not break the tab. The figure does not show the cloth but use it so that you do not damage the tab.
Word of advice, on the VDO module before you disconnect the connectors mark one so that you know how to put it back. I do not know if they are keyed but I marked them just in case. On the Control Module I took a picture so that I had the color coding as a guide, see figure#10.
[img http://i756.photobucket.com/albums/xx202/Rdelvalle/th_fig10.jpg?t=1296931577[/img]
Now that you have the Control Module out take out the plastic covers and expose the Printed Circuit Board. Now you are ready to solder. I will not go into how to solder the board it is discussed in many other postings “Convertible Top Poblem-Solved” by swmic. My board had all the board connector pins with cold solder joints. There were also some badly soldered connection, see Figure #11. I re-soldered all the ones that were cracked. It was very evident which ones needed fixing.
I reassembled the control module and started putting back the modules and the vent. Attach the connectors to the Control Module; make sure they are sited properly. Insert the Control module first into the threaded studs. It will stay in place held by the studs. This frees your hand to do the same technique as removal. Use the mirror technique for the right side nuts. When you have attached both modules then you can put back the air vent.
When inserting the air vent aligned it with the rigid plastic duct and then push it in. Push until the springs latch. The vent and the duct will engage by themselves and does not need any other adjustment.
I had the top in manual mode. I unlatched it from the windshield frame and brought it back to its open position. I engaged the key on the top arm with the slot in the transmission and tightened the bolt. Pressed the up/down switch and voila the top worked perfectly. I even got a high five from my wife.
After much thinking I decided to leave the top in auto mode. I lubricated all of the linkages joints with Liquid Wrench to insure smooth movement. I will be extra careful when opening and closing the top, watching for twisting of the mechanism. The main reason I decided for auto is that in manual mode the arm with the key is loose and free to move. With the shock and vibration from driving the top is free to shake. This cannot be good for the canvas, the plastic window nor the metal linkages. When secured with screw in auto mode the top does not move at all, I tried it.
How to operate the front top locking motors manually
There is a trim cover on the leading edge of the top with two holes. The owner’s manual tells you to insert a screw driver in the holes and turn to open or close the top manually. The locking motors have an attachment opposite to the gear mechanism which has a slot on it. This slot is to receive a negative (flat head) screw driver. I removed the cover to understand the mechanism, see Figures #12 and # 13 for details on how to operate.
You have to turn clockwise to lock (close) and counter-clockwise to unlock (open). To close the top rest the top on the windshield frame then start turning the motors with the screw driver clockwise. It takes a lot of turns to do it. There is a considerable gear reduction which translates to many turns to move very little. Be patient and keep turning. Do some turns on one side then switch to the other one. This is to lock or un-lock both side evenly. You will know when it is opening when you start seen a gap between the top and the frame. The gap disappears when locking.
I hope this posting helps augment the information from other postings. It is my contribution to the forum, to which I am very grateful since I have now done several DIYs thank to the guidance here and the P-Car website.
_________________________________________________________________
1997 993 Cab, Arctic Silver, Targa Wheels, 40K mi
My 1997 993 top would not close. When I opened the top it stayed in the open position. After reading all the posting in the forum I did some trouble shooting and concluded that the top control module was the culprit. I checked the fuse #13, it was OK. I disconnected the rear top motor electrical cable and no voltage reading so no current at the motor. Tested the dashboard up and down switch and had continuity. The only thing left was the control module. I am posting a detailed pictorial instruction on how to remove the top control module. The information is scattered in many posting in bits and pieces; you have to fill in a lot of blanks. This is an attempt to fill those blanks.
Tools needed
1 - 10 mm swivel joint socket with a long extension. You must have a swivel joint socket or it will be very difficult if not impossible for you to reach the nuts.
2- Several length screw drivers both positive and negative. You need a short positive to remove the vent holding screw. A long negative to work the locking motors when in manual mode.
Removal of air vent
It is a must to remove the air vent. If you do not then this job will grow exponential in complexity. If you remove the air vent you do not have to crawl under the dashboard to do the job, I will explain.
Remove the side screw Figure #1 and the triangular plastic cover. Now use two table knives to depress the latching clips that hold the vent in position. Aircooled posting “Removal of Side Vent” posting gave me the clue I needed, he is the pioneer gets all the credit. Position the knives above the two square holes in the vent just below the gas tank opening ****. Gently push and wiggle the knives until they are in about ½ to a ¼ inch, see Figure#2. Grab the vent on the side and pull straight out. You might have to wiggle the vent as you pull it out. The vent will disengage from the duct as you pull it out. Figures #3 and #4 show the clips and how the knives are the necessary tool to depress them. It is impossible to grab the springs through the inside of the square holes. Figure #5 is a reference picture.
Removal of Control Module
Now that the vent is out you have all the visual information you need to complete the job see figure #6 and 6A.
The VDO module and the Control module are positioned one on top of the other. You have to remove the VDO first. They are both located on the left of the steering wheel under the dash board. Both boxes are fastened by chasse mounted threaded studs. Unscrew the left VDO nut. This is the nut you see from the vent opening. Use the extension swivel joint socket. Then using a mirror locate the right nut see Figure #7. I was able to reach in and touch the nut then I inserted the socket which I guided with my free hand. Turn until the nut comes out with the socket. Now you can pull down on the box and remove it from the studs. The box removal requires some maneuvering as it gets stuck with all of the harnesses that are around that area. Be careful and gently get it out so that you can reach the connectors and unplug them see figure #8.
Now you are ready for the control module. Again start with the left one which is the one you see. The nuts in this module have an integral hollow stem which will prevent the nut from being removed with the socket. It will come out when you pull the box from the studs. For the right hand nut use the mirror technique again. Stick your hand in and fill were it is. Then insert the socket with your other hand. The free hand will help attach it to the nut. Unscrew the nut and pull the box out of the studs. I was able to do this maneuver without having to crawl under the dash board. Kneel on the side of the car next to the door and this way you can insert your left hand to do all the detection of the nuts and guiding of the socket.
Pull the Control Module gently down until you can get to the connectors. Use a pair of pliers and a piece of cloth to remove them, see figure #9. Grab the connector tab as close as possible to the base and pull straight back so you do not break the tab. The figure does not show the cloth but use it so that you do not damage the tab.
Word of advice, on the VDO module before you disconnect the connectors mark one so that you know how to put it back. I do not know if they are keyed but I marked them just in case. On the Control Module I took a picture so that I had the color coding as a guide, see figure#10.
[img http://i756.photobucket.com/albums/xx202/Rdelvalle/th_fig10.jpg?t=1296931577[/img]
Now that you have the Control Module out take out the plastic covers and expose the Printed Circuit Board. Now you are ready to solder. I will not go into how to solder the board it is discussed in many other postings “Convertible Top Poblem-Solved” by swmic. My board had all the board connector pins with cold solder joints. There were also some badly soldered connection, see Figure #11. I re-soldered all the ones that were cracked. It was very evident which ones needed fixing.
I reassembled the control module and started putting back the modules and the vent. Attach the connectors to the Control Module; make sure they are sited properly. Insert the Control module first into the threaded studs. It will stay in place held by the studs. This frees your hand to do the same technique as removal. Use the mirror technique for the right side nuts. When you have attached both modules then you can put back the air vent.
When inserting the air vent aligned it with the rigid plastic duct and then push it in. Push until the springs latch. The vent and the duct will engage by themselves and does not need any other adjustment.
I had the top in manual mode. I unlatched it from the windshield frame and brought it back to its open position. I engaged the key on the top arm with the slot in the transmission and tightened the bolt. Pressed the up/down switch and voila the top worked perfectly. I even got a high five from my wife.
After much thinking I decided to leave the top in auto mode. I lubricated all of the linkages joints with Liquid Wrench to insure smooth movement. I will be extra careful when opening and closing the top, watching for twisting of the mechanism. The main reason I decided for auto is that in manual mode the arm with the key is loose and free to move. With the shock and vibration from driving the top is free to shake. This cannot be good for the canvas, the plastic window nor the metal linkages. When secured with screw in auto mode the top does not move at all, I tried it.
How to operate the front top locking motors manually
There is a trim cover on the leading edge of the top with two holes. The owner’s manual tells you to insert a screw driver in the holes and turn to open or close the top manually. The locking motors have an attachment opposite to the gear mechanism which has a slot on it. This slot is to receive a negative (flat head) screw driver. I removed the cover to understand the mechanism, see Figures #12 and # 13 for details on how to operate.
You have to turn clockwise to lock (close) and counter-clockwise to unlock (open). To close the top rest the top on the windshield frame then start turning the motors with the screw driver clockwise. It takes a lot of turns to do it. There is a considerable gear reduction which translates to many turns to move very little. Be patient and keep turning. Do some turns on one side then switch to the other one. This is to lock or un-lock both side evenly. You will know when it is opening when you start seen a gap between the top and the frame. The gap disappears when locking.
I hope this posting helps augment the information from other postings. It is my contribution to the forum, to which I am very grateful since I have now done several DIYs thank to the guidance here and the P-Car website.
_________________________________________________________________
1997 993 Cab, Arctic Silver, Targa Wheels, 40K mi
The following users liked this post:
997 GT2 (08-07-2021)
02-05-2011, 03:42 PM
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
02-05-2011, 04:04 PM
#5
Race Director
Just FYI, you can get to the controller bracket nuts directly from under the dash w/out removing the vent. It is tough on the back though.
Fantastic writeup BTW.
Fantastic writeup BTW.
02-05-2011, 04:09 PM
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
The vent is so easy to take out that is not worth getting under the dash. I did evrything just kneeling next to the door. If you follow the instructions I posted you can get the vent out in less than one minute. I spent about 20 minute to put everything back together, again without crawling under the dahsboard.
The following users liked this post:
997 GT2 (08-07-2021)
Trending Topics
02-05-2011, 05:16 PM
#8
Instructor
Thread Starter
C2Cab95- You are welcome. If you have problems with your top follow the steps I posted. Just be patient it is very doable. Start the trouble shoting with the fuse. You can contact me and I will be glad to help. Hope you do not need it.
10-21-2013, 03:56 PM
#10
Advanced
Why Why Why
Had plenty of issues with the top on my C2, I've been under the dash, and I am small, no place for a human, Why did I not see this post 4 years ago, am getting ready to out my loved one on the market and I am going over so many little things I thought I'd give the top one last shot, as the locking mechanism on the passenger side only stops when you pull off the closing switch on the console. After a bout 2 hours of what did I do now, I realized I had not adjusted the rear micro switch in tight enough to "engage" the locking motors. So dumb, everything has to be Porsche PERFECT.
This was a great write up I just wish I had seen years ago.
Thanks.
This was a great write up I just wish I had seen years ago.
Thanks.
07-18-2015, 02:51 AM
#11
Instructor
This thread was great! I was physically unable to access the control box until I saw this way to access through the side vent. Still no easy task but I re soldered the points and now everything works. A new top to boot!
07-18-2015, 06:10 PM
#12
Instructor
Thread Starter
Glad you like it and you were able to fix it. I just posted another one for the Top mechanical transmission and the cable which I just refurbished.
07-23-2017, 05:09 PM
#14
3rd Gear
Join Date: May 2012
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Convertible Top 1998 993
Great writeup, Rdelvalle, but I cannot see your pictures. 
Do you have a link to where I might be able to see your photos bigger than the small thumbnails here? Your Photobucket link goes to nothing.
Thanx much ... anxious to get my control unit out to check the solders. I've been operating my top manually for too long. Argh!
Do you have a link to where I might be able to see your photos bigger than the small thumbnails here? Your Photobucket link goes to nothing.Thanx much ... anxious to get my control unit out to check the solders. I've been operating my top manually for too long. Argh!
