OT Thinking hard about a 356
02-28-2011, 01:56 PM
#31
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Kie-- Very cool!
^^ 
^^
May not be a project car, but definitely room to grow
...
^^ From the "wtb/looking for electric porsche toy car" thread.
^^May not be a project car, but definitely room to grow
...
02-28-2011, 07:04 PM
#33
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Despite how beautiful they are, I just couldn't do it.
02-28-2011, 07:30 PM
#34
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I have a 356 SC and a 993 C2 in the garage right now. I grew up in a 356, learned to drive in a 356 and life just wouldn't be the same without a 356. It goes without saying that it's a completely different experience than the C2, but I understand your desire to have one.
From a "driving at the limit" perspective, I find the 356 much easier to deal with. It's much more communicative as to where the limit is and easier to save when you go beyond it. Of course, my seat time in the C2 is quite a bit lower than the 356, so that could have A LOT to do with it. Naturally, the limits of adhesion are much higher in the 993, but in my limited experience, once you reach that limit, it’s much more difficult to look like the hero.
From a “Living with it daily” perspective, it’s pretty easy to guess that the 993 wins here. Quiet, comfortable, AC, advanced suspension, actual torque from the engine, etc. I can (and have) get in the 993 and drive for 14-15+ hours without any issue. Doing something like that in the 356 would be a little taxing. The noise, ride, lack of cruise, unsupportive seats, etc just gets tiring after a certain amount of time. Plus, like others have mentioned, with all the texting and super-SUVs out there today, you just don’t stand a chance in any sort of accident situation. Even if you survive, the car will be a complete loss.
I had a some rust repair done to mine about 10 years ago by Jim Kellogg and it was painful ($$$$), but well worth it. Of course, our air is so dry in Colorado that it wasn’t really bad and I have the utmost confidence that it will stay fairly rust free for quite some time. Despite some comments here, I really don’t tinker with it all that much. I got rid of the points in the distributor in favor of a Crane Cam electronic (shutter wheel) electronic ignition and that made a HUGE difference in starting and seat-of-pants power. I adjust the valves from time to time and naturally I change the oil, but for the most part I do VERY little to it. I probably do 2000-2500 miles a year in the 356 and that MIGHT cost me 2-3 hours of maintenance. I am sure my time will come when it needs something “big” (e.g. clutch, tranny rebuild, etc), but for now it is HYPER reliable.
You’ve probably figured it out by now, but starting with the driest and most solid example you can is key. Even if you have to buy a roller to get that, the mechanicals are MUCH easier to deal with than the sheet metal.
From a "driving at the limit" perspective, I find the 356 much easier to deal with. It's much more communicative as to where the limit is and easier to save when you go beyond it. Of course, my seat time in the C2 is quite a bit lower than the 356, so that could have A LOT to do with it. Naturally, the limits of adhesion are much higher in the 993, but in my limited experience, once you reach that limit, it’s much more difficult to look like the hero.
From a “Living with it daily” perspective, it’s pretty easy to guess that the 993 wins here. Quiet, comfortable, AC, advanced suspension, actual torque from the engine, etc. I can (and have) get in the 993 and drive for 14-15+ hours without any issue. Doing something like that in the 356 would be a little taxing. The noise, ride, lack of cruise, unsupportive seats, etc just gets tiring after a certain amount of time. Plus, like others have mentioned, with all the texting and super-SUVs out there today, you just don’t stand a chance in any sort of accident situation. Even if you survive, the car will be a complete loss.
I had a some rust repair done to mine about 10 years ago by Jim Kellogg and it was painful ($$$$), but well worth it. Of course, our air is so dry in Colorado that it wasn’t really bad and I have the utmost confidence that it will stay fairly rust free for quite some time. Despite some comments here, I really don’t tinker with it all that much. I got rid of the points in the distributor in favor of a Crane Cam electronic (shutter wheel) electronic ignition and that made a HUGE difference in starting and seat-of-pants power. I adjust the valves from time to time and naturally I change the oil, but for the most part I do VERY little to it. I probably do 2000-2500 miles a year in the 356 and that MIGHT cost me 2-3 hours of maintenance. I am sure my time will come when it needs something “big” (e.g. clutch, tranny rebuild, etc), but for now it is HYPER reliable.
You’ve probably figured it out by now, but starting with the driest and most solid example you can is key. Even if you have to buy a roller to get that, the mechanicals are MUCH easier to deal with than the sheet metal.
