Macca

Hi Gents,

Im looking to remove the clutch ventilation pipe from my airbox. Infact as per another thread Im thinking of going back to a double cone filter (another story).

I would like to consider two options:

a). Remove rubber clutch vent arm (the piece that goes into the factory airbox to vent the clutch) and replace with a small airfilter clamped directly to the alloy pipe inside the engine bay.

b). Remove the entire rubber pipe, the alloy pipe as well all the way back to the rubber pipe exting the side of the clutch bell.

Option B is my preference.

I have a couple of small K&N filters linded up on ebay (pictures attached) but I also need to know the answe to two questions first:

1). What is the outside diamter of the alloy clutch breather pipe that the rubber "arm" attached to? 40mm or 45mm?

2). Can the alloy pipe be removed while the engine is in the car and can a filter be clamped onto the rubber hose exiting the clutch again when the engine and clutch/gearbox is in the car???

Ive attached a few pics to help visualise. I should have done this when my engine was out!

Thanks in advance. Appreciate any help???

Cheers
M

JM993

Don't over-think this. I removed this ridiculous thing from my car many years/miles ago with no ill effects. I simply removed the metal pipe and rubber hose that connects to the airbox. I left the flexible hose on the bell housing pointing down. No need to add a filter. You can do all this rather easily with the engine in the car.

I also replaced the engine tin where the metal pipe attaches with one from a tip car (no hole for the pipe).

Cheers,
Joe

Macca

Hey Joe. Good point. I do tend to overthink things! You have answered my second question which is great. Sounds like it can be done in situ! I wonder if the alloy engine tray plate can be replaced with the tip one without the hole cut into it while the negine is still in the car? Maybe Im over doing it again LOL!

Cheers
M

JM993

No worries. You can do everything with the engine in the car

Cheers,
Joe

Macca

Thanks. Great to know! Thats the way Ill likely go...

Would still be handy to know diameter of tube anyone?

Cheers
M

Coleman

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...e-it-with.html

Macca

Thanks Coleman. I did an extensive search of Rennlist before I posted this and I did find this thread. Unfortunately TheotherEric wasnt sure if 45 or 40mm. Porsche PET says rubber pipe from clutch side is 41.5mm but doesnt say if inside or outside diameter. I thik what Ill do is simply remove the rubber pipe from the clutch bell and use some race mesh to make a cover and leave it like that....

Cheers
M

shadow993

What is point of removing this?

Coleman

weight reduction, I'm sure there is at least +23 hp to be gained..

nsully

I have done this same DIY. Took it a step further. Picked up a piece of duct (hose) and ran it down and in between the crossmember and sway bar. Have no idea if the hose is beneficial, just another case of 993 overkill.
Neil

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/scat.php

Macca

Primarily weight reduction. Approx. 4lb including all hardware. Secondly asthetic. It remnoves the unslightly rubber tube thats supposed to mate with the airbox lid on a 6spd car. Getting rid of teh airbox and filer is another 4.5lb

I removed this because going with a dual cone filter I no longer had provision for the clutch tube nore anywhere to put it (bar leaving it hanging in open space). After researching thsi extensively I removed all hardware, replace tinware with tipo side tinware (which diesnt have the hole) then made a brass mesh to go over the breather exit on the gearbox casing. I basically copied what others had done here and what I saw on a 993 Cup car in the work shop. My mechanic is more than happy that this will do the job fine - as he pointed out the 964 gearboxes didnt even have the clutch vent system and they seem to hold up just fine. Mine still exists but it now uses the roational airflow caused by the clutch to push the air out the side mounted exit point rather than negative pressure to draw the air and particles up the long (2.5 foot+) biping and ducting system that was in place....

Cheers
M

KBell

Mecca and I are on the same wave length.
I also removed the hoses. See pictures.

I also had the new engine tin power coated.

Will post final pictures when finished.

Kevin

CalvinC4S

No need for a filter as it works on vaccum from the motor.

This system is used to prevent premature T/O bearing failure before the end of the discs life.

NC TRACKRAT

Suggestion: It's easier to get to the rearmost 10mm bolt that holds the tube to the RH engine tin from above. Just pry back the rubber seal and hold it back with a small block of wood while you back out the bolt. I used a Snap-On box end S-wrench.

sfl993t4

I'm about to do this to my 993 turbo (due to a new filter set-up). Does anyone know if its the same process, or have a list of bits that can and can't be removed?