DanL993

+1 on that.

I tried to use wet 2000 grit on some of the less obvious blobs in some of my early attempts and found two things. First, the sand paper takes a LONG time to file down the blob. Second, the haze of very fine scratches left by the sandpaper, while reduced by polish, were still visible.

This part is, as I said, an art form and IMHO needs to be left to artists!!

1pcarnut

You can get rid of the haze with a dual-action polisher like one from Porter-Cable using a swirl remover compound (it's very fine). If you want to sand down a blob, one trick is to take a paper-punch and punch out some small dots of sandpaper and then glue them to end of a pencil (on the eraser). That way you limit how much area you are touching with abrasives.

matt777

Yes, I wouldn't touch the paint with anything other than a DA polisher. A rotary polisher can burn through clear coat very quickly. If you have a high blob (technical term ) you can try the Meguiars mini sanding blocks which are 1000 grit IIRC. They work really well on clear coat. If the blob is paint I doubt the shine will come back after sanding it. I'm just going to gradually build up the larger chips with Dr Colorchip paint.

DanL993

I tried the eraser idea, and didn't want to attack the small blob with an orbital--"sledgehammer on a tack" kind of thing I guess.

My main problem was that the 2000 didn't remove material fast enough so maybe I should try the 1000 grit? The haze did look far better after polish and wax. I just get really nervous using sand paper on a car finish in any environment--I'm leaving that to the artists from here on out and I'm now in the "fill by stages" business.

Finally, I have a Guards Red car and that's a one stage paint job so no clear coat to worry about.

Pete Lech

Dan they also have 1500 grit I believe. 2000 is too slow for blob removal.

Be careful with the wet/or/dry paper you use.
3M and other reputable brands are OK but I have read that some of the Chinese stuff has inconsistent grit and can cause problems.

DanL993

Pete,

I no longer touch the stuff. Found that the other techniques and a lot of patience are doing the trick for me.

SgtGoldy

So quick introduction:
I signed up to be a member here not because I own/in the market for a Porsche (Although I would love to have one if finances allowed) but to thank DanL993 for an awesome tip.

I used this on my Infiniti G37s (modded of course in a useless attempt to keep up with you guys) and this worked amazingly. Not OEM but a repaint is in the future so I just wanted a clean touch up. So long story short, thank you DanL993 for this tip.

*SideNote* Sorry to resurrect a dead thread . Also anyone giving away a free porsche IM me! haha

nine9six

I find it impossible to get an even flow of paint if the chip is located on the side of the car. Gravity being what it is. Even when I apply paint with tinyest of detail brushes or even a needle.
How do you guys stop gravity from its effect when applying paint to a chip on the side of a car?

DanL993

Try letting the paint air dry on the applicator for a few minutes. It may stiffen the paint a bit and perhaps give you a better viscosity for holding on those vertical surfaces.

I had good luck getting the stuff to adhere long enough to swipe it.

ricks993

My paint chip tip; If chip is on the side of car build up layer by layer of paint waiting for each layer to dry (much easier on flat service) to much paint and it will run so you have to take your time. You build up the paint until it is above the surface of the existing paint. Let it dry completely; can take hours.
Then take a new unused strait edge razor blade and carefully shave off the excess paint, then take 1500 grit paper and wet sand the spot to only take out any scratches, buff and you’re done. This is only for large chips.
For road rash the Dr color chip works much better

coreseller

Alright, here's one for you chip repair experts. Driving into work this morning and had a run in with a decent sized stone kicked up on the highway, put a nice size chip in my one year old repainted hood. I've read all three pages of this post, my question: Do I attempt the "build up" of paint inside the the affected area ONLY with the Dr ColorChip paint then scrape with credit card.......... OR............. could I attempt to use OEM Porsche Polar Silver paint and then also try the scrape method?

DanL993

Mark, just sent a longish PM reply. Good luck.

If you come up to Dayton let me know and I'll buy you a beer.

FlatSix911

^^^ Care to share with the rest of Rennlist?

vincer77

You may want to try the Langka system.

DanL993

Sure, text follows: WOW!! Mark, that's a nasty one for sure. From the pics this looks far worse then anything I worked with my methiod, but here is what I would suggest.

If the ping has actually dented the metal, I might have a PDR guy look at getting the surface level first.

Then, or if it's level now, I would use a sharp knife to bevel the edges to accomodate transition there, then simply try several layers of Dr. Color Chip. I find that product spot on for color match. They have brushes and other implements for application of larger paint "blobs" too. This might take several applications, then wet sand with 1000 grit and then polishing to remove the haze. You really got hit there!

In the end I think the blemish is going to be visible in any case; you're simply going to be able to make it less obvious until you do more serious repair.

BTW you might have these guys looks it over for a professional spot repair: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Dayto...57654984268634

They come highly recommeded by Yuri Rojas at The Garaj.

Hope that is helpful and good luck.